Village Stars of Burgundy

Charles Lachaux is raising the bar at this family domaine, and fast becoming one of the hot tickets in Burgundy. This is a blend of seven parcels, all on the Vosne side of Nuits. It’s got real energy, with lifted berry fruit and lovely, chalky tannins.

Arguably of Premier Cru quality, Bruno’s Les Véroilles is a pretty and perfumed effort with a juicy generosity and an attractive softness from the oak. Good acidity without being too vibrant.

The Clos des Epeneaux is an impressive vineyard in both size and history, with vines dating back to 1919. It is one of the largest monopole vineyards in Burgundy at 5.23ha, and certainly one of the most celebrated in the region. 2017 has produced a remarkable Epeneaux. The constraints of the small cellar in the centre of the village meant that a large crop had to be carefully juggled between tanks. Some racking off of the juice during the height of fermentation meant winemaker, Paul Zinetti, managed to draw out a delicious core to this 2017, while preserving the aromatic freshness of the vintage. With a few years in bottle, it’s clear something special happened here. You can dispel the old trope that Pommard is muscular and rustic only: this is svelte, fragrant, profound, and intense. It marries density with silky freshness.

This historic domaine in Pommard, whose Clos des Epeneaux is one of the finest reds in the Côte de Beaune, bought vineyards in the quiet, beautiful village of Auxey Duresses in the mid-1990s. Organic farming and gentle winemaking by talented régisseur Paul Zinetti make for one of the best value, most characterful reds on our Burgundy list. Bursting with berry fruit, and juicy tannins. 2017 is a stand-out vintage at the domaine. A bargain.

This 12 hectare Chassagne-based domaine makes approachable, zippy, juicy wines. Their village wine is a calling card of the domaine, and in 2018 has a fresh, exuberant energy. Benchmark Chassagne.

Since Etienne Grivot was joined by his children, Mathilde and Hubert, this well-regarded domaine has shifted up a gear, and is now held as one of the top names in this outstanding village. They now make wines that are more approachable in youth, stepping away from the structured, tannic style of the past. This 2016 is a benchmark Vosne: silky and smooth with ripe, juicy acidity. Vibrant and elegant.

Jean-Marc Boillot is the grandson of one Puligny-Montrachet’s greatest producers, Etienne Sauzet. He inherited a stunning array of vineyards, which are now run by his daughter Lydie, and her husband, François. They make this village wine from seven parcels scattered throughout the commune: in 2018 it is taut and full of energy.

Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau is making some of the best wines in Meursault these days. His premiers crus are a tour de force, but his village Meursualt, which comes from this exceptionally well-placed parcel that extends beyond the premier cru slope, is the insider’s secret. Amplified fruit, energetic freshness, and seamless flow.

Michel Gros is based in the heart of Vosne-Romanée, but that doesn't mean you should ignore his Nuits - rather, he makes some of the most approachable, opulent examples of this sometimes austere commune. This is dark and juicy, with blackberries and plenty of mineral character. A charming Nuits.

The Taupenot family have been in Morey-Saint-Denis for seven generations. The domaine is now run by Virginie Taupenot and her brother Romain, whose wines are establishing this as one of the secret stars of the village. This is proper Morey. Dark and spicy, with opulent character and a wildness about the palate. Where it really impresses is the thin line it treads between control and raw power.

The wines here are made by Englishman, Mark Fincham. Mark’s handling of the domaine’s grands crus have earned him the respect of local vignerons. His village wines are made with the same exacting detail. En Pallud sits just below Mazis-Chambertin, in the heart of the village. This is a serious Gevrey: cool, fresh, mineral, and beautifully balanced.

Sourced from three separate parcels of 100 year old vines in Mazis Bas. With perfect ripeness in 2014 Mark opted for 10% whole bunch and dialled down the new oak to 40%, winemaking decisions that have allowed the terroir to shine through. This is a wine for the Burgundy purist, not big and brash but fine boned and feminine, svelte and elegant. Cherry confit, supple tannins and a saline note on the fantail finish of this charming wine.

Domaine de Montille are one of the most important names across Volnay and Pommard. Etienne de Montille works closely with his winemaker, Brian Sieve, constantly striving to improve, and the quality of their recent vintages speaks for itself. Lots of whole bunch and skilled vinification means this Pommard marries power and depth with perfume and elegance.

This Puligny-based producer makes a superb Meursault from this steep site, tucked up in the cooler part of the village. The chalky soils make for a racy wine, typical of the Olivier Leflaive style, but with the breadth and savoury weight of classic Meursault.