Energetic, precise, and extremely pleasurable to drink. Fresh-baked strawberry shortcake, almond paste, and wildflowers. The vibrant acidity, soft texture, and mosaic of citrus, plus red and black fruits come together in harmony with a kiss of acacia honey and skin tannin on the finish.

A blend of multiple old vine parcels across the region, Psi 2023 is a blend of 92% Tinto Fino and 8% Garnacha. It offers sensuous dark berry fruit flavours, violets, and a little dried cherry blossom. On the palate there are hints of liquorice and grilled herbs, with a supple and energetic feel on the finish.

From the cooler Oak Knoll district, the wine does not undergo malolactic fermentation and there is no batonnage which explains the tension in the glass. It opens with notes of white flowers and acacia with bright orchard fruit. Spiced aromas of ginger with fresh pear flow across the palate leaving a hint of butterscotch on the finish.

The Lafons own two hectares in Saint-Véran. It’s one of their more recent purchases, Dominique having picked up two parcels in 2014 and 2016. The blend of the two sites makes a powerful and compelling example of the appellation, with some waxy yellow fruit notes on the nose and a deliciously textured palate cut through by a lemon-scented edge. It balances richness with freshness in style.

This comes from vines that lie near Saint-Véran, which tend to ripen early. The wine is perfumed and charming with notes of white blossom and crisp apple, with a creamy, satisfying palate. It’s uncomplicated but delightful, and a great window onto what the Lafons are getting up to in southern Burgundy. Great value, too.

This is the pinnacle of the Lafon wines in the Mâconnais, or as Dominique used to put it, the ‘Porusots’ of the Mâcon domaine. That is to say, it is crystalline and pure, with a power, presence and precision you might expect from a much grander appellation in the Côte d'Or.