Village Stars of Burgundy

The Clos des Epeneaux is an impressive vineyard in both size and history, with vines dating back to 1919. It is one of the largest monopole vineyards in Burgundy at 5.23ha, and certainly one of the most celebrated in the region. 2017 has produced a remarkable Epeneaux. The constraints of the small cellar in the centre of the village meant that a large crop had to be carefully juggled between tanks. Some racking off of the juice during the height of fermentation meant winemaker, Paul Zinetti, managed to draw out a delicious core to this 2017, while preserving the aromatic freshness of the vintage. With a few years in bottle, it’s clear something special happened here. You can dispel the old trope that Pommard is muscular and rustic only: this is svelte, fragrant, profound, and intense. It marries density with silky freshness.

Since Etienne Grivot was joined by his children, Mathilde and Hubert, this well-regarded domaine has shifted up a gear, and is now held as one of the top names in this outstanding village. They now make wines that are more approachable in youth, stepping away from the structured, tannic style of the past. This 2016 is a benchmark Vosne: silky and smooth with ripe, juicy acidity. Vibrant and elegant.

Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau is making some of the best wines in Meursault these days. His premiers crus are a tour de force, but his village Meursualt, which comes from this exceptionally well-placed parcel that extends beyond the premier cru slope, is the insider’s secret. Amplified fruit, energetic freshness, and seamless flow.

The wines here are made by Englishman, Mark Fincham. Mark’s handling of the domaine’s grands crus have earned him the respect of local vignerons. His village wines are made with the same exacting detail. En Pallud sits just below Mazis-Chambertin, in the heart of the village. This is a serious Gevrey: cool, fresh, mineral, and beautifully balanced.

This Puligny-based producer makes a superb Meursault from this steep site, tucked up in the cooler part of the village. The chalky soils make for a racy wine, typical of the Olivier Leflaive style, but with the breadth and savoury weight of classic Meursault.