Rhône: New Releases

Alain Graillot has long reigned as Crozes-Hermitage’s most respected grower, and this 2019 is affirmation of that position. This wine has dark smoky fruit on the nose - blackcurrants, black olives, and nutmeg spice. The palate has such an impressive texture, with abundant, ripe, but poised tannins so neatly knitted together. Its long, fresh finish ensures this should age well.

This is one of two signature reds at the domaine (the other is the Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes). It is a fruit-driven style with density and finesse. A long, gentle maceration draws out subtle liquorice and dark cherry notes with a lovely volume.

This wine is only made in the best vintages. The wine’s intensity is dialled up, thanks to the 30% whole bunch fruit used and ageing in 30% new oak. There is so much density here, with abundant but fondant tannins. One for the long-haul.

This is the second of the domaine’s signature cuvées (the other is Cornas Les Chailles). It comes from, unsurprisingly, the old vines which are planted further up the slopes at altitudes ranging from 250-400m. Small amounts of whole bunch fruit add freshness and silkiness. Superb old vine intensity, this is concentrated but still so accessible.

One of the most celebrated blends of the southern Rhône, notable for its high proportion of Mourvèdre in the blend, which gives cool cassis fruit, structure and length. Grenache adds sweet berry tones and a supple texture, and Syrah a dark, powerful concentration, with liquorice intensity. There are some substantial tannins in the background, setting it up for long ageing, and some impressive freshness, bringing the wine together. Magnificent.

The Coudoulet vineyard lies right next to Château de Beaucastel’s main block, and is in fact a continuation of the same soil features. That it lies just beyond the limit of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape boundary, and made by one of the southern Rhône’s greatest winemaking families, means it might just be the best Côtes du Rhône money can buy. The 2019 is dark and structured with meaty tannins and a firm, spicy backbone, drenched in blackcurrants and wild herbs. Powerful tension for a Côtes du Rhône with excellent ageing potential.

The is a legendary white in the Southern Rhône. It comes from a tiny parcel of gnarled old Roussanne vines, and is produced in tiny quantities. In 2019 only 6000 bottles were produced.

Honey-scented, and brimming with blossom and orchard aromas. The palate is dry but rich and nicely weighted. It is a blend of mainly Marsanne and Clairette. The Marsanne is grown on limestone and brings a pretty fruit character. The Clairette meanwhile comes from some extremely old vines, aged 140-150 years old. It brings an amazing freshness to the wine, not built around acidity but around salinity. This is such a characterful white, vibrant and charming.

Baron Louis, their flagship red, is a testament to Rodolphe’s efforts to preserve local traditions and old rare varieties. The base is a classic 50% Grenache. But the other half is made up of floral Cinsault, powerful Mourvèdre, fresh Counoise, and fruity Carignan. The good value for money here cannot be overemphasized. Juicy, floral, fresh and poised.

We’ve watched the 2015 Ventoux Rouge develop in tank ever since just after the 2015 harvest, and it’s fair to say that this has really blossomed. On the nose, notes of wild violets and a core of juicy fruit, while there’s incredibly refined tannins and a very long, mineral finish. This is a beautifully judged red from Even Bakke: an absolute bargain from a benchmark of the Ventoux.

This blend of Greffieux, Méal, and Bessards is one of the finest examples of its type. Some of Bernard’s vines are over 100 years old now, and though he’s not quite that old, he is well into his semi-retirement. He’s given up the rest of his domaine, but he just can’t let go of his Hermitage. It always has a playful floral aroma from barrel, with violets and spiced cassis fruit. It will need a few years in the cellar before approaching, but well worth the wait if you can. Certainly one of his final vintages, if not the very last.

The domaine only makes one wine, and they throw everything they’ve got at it. It is a blend of two parcels from the Côte Blonde and two from the Côte Brune. It is powerful but balanced, with plenty of gusto on the mid-palate. The nose is laden with aromas of violets and tapenade, smoke and spice. Its silky tannins and sappy acidity let the sweet fruit core slowly unfurl. This is a paradigm for Côte-Rôtie’s capacity for purity.

This is Clusel Roch’s classic blend. It comes from a range of vineyards across the Côte Brune, including Le Plomb, Montmains, and Bas de Coteau. Spicy and graphite-textured, with floral notes, and some intense black olive and cassis notes beneath. A classic Côte-Rôtie.

This Gamay is a revelation. It’s made by one of Côte-Rôtie’s most accomplished winemakers, Guillaume Clusel, whose Syrahs are as enthralling as they come. This Gamay comes from the decomposed granitic soils that lie south of Lyon. It is a juicy and delicious red at a great price, with silky tannins and a fresh backbone of acidity couched in ripe, red berry fruit.

La Viallière is one of the great sites of the Côte Brune. Its mid-slope position and high proportion of gravelly stones aid drainage and produce wines of great finesse. It is savoury, smooth, and long, with silky tannins and peppery freshness.

This is the most intense and floral wine in the Courbis cellar. It has a wonderful nose brimming with peonies and dried rosemary. The tannins are textured and abundant, finely interlaced with the dark, minty fruit.

Sybarine comes from vines very close to the Garon cellar on the Côte Blonde. Its granite soils make for an open, refined, and silky Côte-Rôtie, and is the earliest drinking of the four Garon cuvées. In 2019 it is so peppery and vibrant, with a tangy freshness. Very pure and upfront.

This comes from four neighbouring lieux dits on the Côte Blonde: Lancement, La Triote, Le Combard and Le Mollard. They share a high proportion of white schist in their soils, making for an intense, savoury, and long expression. The fruit concentration is impressive here, and the tannins are so well formed: punchy but well executed.

Juicy and pure, light-footed and elegant, this Syrah has such a smooth and fresh frame, it will drink well from the off. It comes from vines near Ampuis, planted higher up, just above the Côte Rôtie appellation. It is bursting with fruit, high energy, and joyful in its expression. Another triumph from this young domaine. Stock up.

This is perhaps the wine that needs the most explanation in the Bott cellar. The name may sound unfamiliar. Don’t worry, we’d never tried a Seyssuel either. It comes from vines planted just a 10 minute drive from Ampuis. The soils here are made up of schist and gneiss and Julie says they look shiny when the sunlight catches them. There’s no granite here, on the other side of the river, and the Syrah is floral and pinot-esque, with an elegant texture. Kamata is the Maori work for rock or stone, and a nod to Graeme’s Kiwi origins. Light, fragrant, and delectable. More than a curiosity.

This was, until recently, called ‘Signature’, but has been renamed Cuvée Julien Barrot, and is Julien’s flagship wine. It is rich and woven-through with ripe tannin and forest berry flavours. It has a silky body and a long, fruit-driven finish that promised complexity in the years to come.

The domaine might have 15 hectares in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but a wine you shouldn’t miss is this cuvée, from lesser-known Châteauneuf-de-Gadagne just to the south. The name is a nod to their ability to throw off the constraints of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape regulations in this peppery and fragrant wine. It is mainly Grenache with some Mourvèdre, Carignan and Syrah thrown in for good measure.

This comes from one-hundred-year-old Grenache vines planted in the sandy soils near Château Rayas. It has intense minerality and saltiness. There is power there, but it feels smooth and refined, and gives the impression of weightlessness.

The cherry on the cake at the domaine is this cuvée, only made in better years. It comes from the old vines planted on high altitude terraces. With its high proportion of Mourvèdre (30%) in the blend, it is a decadent and delicious Gigondas.