Rhône: New Releases

Alain Graillot has long reigned as Crozes-Hermitage’s most respected grower, and this 2019 is affirmation of that position. This wine has dark smoky fruit on the nose - blackcurrants, black olives, and nutmeg spice. The palate has such an impressive texture, with abundant, ripe, but poised tannins so neatly knitted together. Its long, fresh finish ensures this should age well.

This is one of two signature reds at the domaine (the other is the Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes). It is a fruit-driven style with density and finesse. A long, gentle maceration draws out subtle liquorice and dark cherry notes with a lovely volume.

This wine is only made in the best vintages. The wine’s intensity is dialled up, thanks to the 30% whole bunch fruit used and ageing in 30% new oak. There is so much density here, with abundant but fondant tannins. One for the long-haul.

This is the second of the domaine’s signature cuvées (the other is Cornas Les Chailles). It comes from, unsurprisingly, the old vines which are planted further up the slopes at altitudes ranging from 250-400m. Small amounts of whole bunch fruit add freshness and silkiness. Superb old vine intensity, this is concentrated but still so accessible.

One of the most celebrated blends of the southern Rhône, notable for its high proportion of Mourvèdre in the blend, which gives cool cassis fruit, structure and length. Grenache adds sweet berry tones and a supple texture, and Syrah a dark, powerful concentration, with liquorice intensity. There are some substantial tannins in the background, setting it up for long ageing, and some impressive freshness, bringing the wine together. Magnificent.

The Coudoulet vineyard lies right next to Château de Beaucastel’s main block, and is in fact a continuation of the same soil features. That it lies just beyond the limit of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape boundary, and made by one of the southern Rhône’s greatest winemaking families, means it might just be the best Côtes du Rhône money can buy. The 2019 is dark and structured with meaty tannins and a firm, spicy backbone, drenched in blackcurrants and wild herbs. Powerful tension for a Côtes du Rhône with excellent ageing potential.

The is a legendary white in the Southern Rhône. It comes from a tiny parcel of gnarled old Roussanne vines, and is produced in tiny quantities. In 2019 only 6000 bottles were produced.

Honey-scented, and brimming with blossom and orchard aromas. The palate is dry but rich and nicely weighted. It is a blend of mainly Marsanne and Clairette. The Marsanne is grown on limestone and brings a pretty fruit character. The Clairette meanwhile comes from some extremely old vines, aged 140-150 years old. It brings an amazing freshness to the wine, not built around acidity but around salinity. This is such a characterful white, vibrant and charming.

Baron Louis, their flagship red, is a testament to Rodolphe’s efforts to preserve local traditions and old rare varieties. The base is a classic 50% Grenache. But the other half is made up of floral Cinsault, powerful Mourvèdre, fresh Counoise, and fruity Carignan. The good value for money here cannot be overemphasized. Juicy, floral, fresh and poised.

We’ve watched the 2015 Ventoux Rouge develop in tank ever since just after the 2015 harvest, and it’s fair to say that this has really blossomed. On the nose, notes of wild violets and a core of juicy fruit, while there’s incredibly refined tannins and a very long, mineral finish. This is a beautifully judged red from Even Bakke: an absolute bargain from a benchmark of the Ventoux.

This blend of Greffieux, Méal, and Bessards is one of the finest examples of its type. Some of Bernard’s vines are over 100 years old now, and though he’s not quite that old, he is well into his semi-retirement. He’s given up the rest of his domaine, but he just can’t let go of his Hermitage. It always has a playful floral aroma from barrel, with violets and spiced cassis fruit. It will need a few years in the cellar before approaching, but well worth the wait if you can. Certainly one of his final vintages, if not the very last.

The domaine only makes one wine, and they throw everything they’ve got at it. It is a blend of two parcels from the Côte Blonde and two from the Côte Brune. It is powerful but balanced, with plenty of gusto on the mid-palate. The nose is laden with aromas of violets and tapenade, smoke and spice. Its silky tannins and sappy acidity let the sweet fruit core slowly unfurl. This is a paradigm for Côte-Rôtie’s capacity for purity.

This is Clusel Roch’s classic blend. It comes from a range of vineyards across the Côte Brune, including Le Plomb, Montmains, and Bas de Coteau. Spicy and graphite-textured, with floral notes, and some intense black olive and cassis notes beneath. A classic Côte-Rôtie.

This Gamay is a revelation. It’s made by one of Côte-Rôtie’s most accomplished winemakers, Guillaume Clusel, whose Syrahs are as enthralling as they come. This Gamay comes from the decomposed granitic soils that lie south of Lyon. It is a juicy and delicious red at a great price, with silky tannins and a fresh backbone of acidity couched in ripe, red berry fruit.

La Viallière is one of the great sites of the Côte Brune. Its mid-slope position and high proportion of gravelly stones aid drainage and produce wines of great finesse. It is savoury, smooth, and long, with silky tannins and peppery freshness.

This is the most intense and floral wine in the Courbis cellar. It has a wonderful nose brimming with peonies and dried rosemary. The tannins are textured and abundant, finely interlaced with the dark, minty fruit.

Sybarine comes from vines very close to the Garon cellar on the Côte Blonde. Its granite soils make for an open, refined, and silky Côte-Rôtie, and is the earliest drinking of the four Garon cuvées. In 2019 it is so peppery and vibrant, with a tangy freshness. Very pure and upfront.

This comes from four neighbouring lieux dits on the Côte Blonde: Lancement, La Triote, Le Combard and Le Mollard. They share a high proportion of white schist in their soils, making for an intense, savoury, and long expression. The fruit concentration is impressive here, and the tannins are so well formed: punchy but well executed.

Juicy and pure, light-footed and elegant, this Syrah has such a smooth and fresh frame, it will drink well from the off. It comes from vines near Ampuis, planted higher up, just above the Côte Rôtie appellation. It is bursting with fruit, high energy, and joyful in its expression. Another triumph from this young domaine. Stock up.

This is perhaps the wine that needs the most explanation in the Bott cellar. The name may sound unfamiliar. Don’t worry, we’d never tried a Seyssuel either. It comes from vines planted just a 10 minute drive from Ampuis. The soils here are made up of schist and gneiss and Julie says they look shiny when the sunlight catches them. There’s no granite here, on the other side of the river, and the Syrah is floral and pinot-esque, with an elegant texture. Kamata is the Maori work for rock or stone, and a nod to Graeme’s Kiwi origins. Light, fragrant, and delectable. More than a curiosity.

This was, until recently, called ‘Signature’, but has been renamed Cuvée Julien Barrot, and is Julien’s flagship wine. It is rich and woven-through with ripe tannin and forest berry flavours. It has a silky body and a long, fruit-driven finish that promised complexity in the years to come.

The domaine might have 15 hectares in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but a wine you shouldn’t miss is this cuvée, from lesser-known Châteauneuf-de-Gadagne just to the south. The name is a nod to their ability to throw off the constraints of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape regulations in this peppery and fragrant wine. It is mainly Grenache with some Mourvèdre, Carignan and Syrah thrown in for good measure.

This comes from one-hundred-year-old Grenache vines planted in the sandy soils near Château Rayas. It has intense minerality and saltiness. There is power there, but it feels smooth and refined, and gives the impression of weightlessness.

The cherry on the cake at the domaine is this cuvée, only made in better years. It comes from the old vines planted on high altitude terraces. With its high proportion of Mourvèdre (30%) in the blend, it is a decadent and delicious Gigondas.

The classic blend is the priority of the domaine. It comes from the first vineyards planted by Thierry’s father in the 1960s, and in 2019 it has an aromatic intensity that is peppered with the scent of wild strawberries and dried herbs. A rich, sun-drenched palate gives it meaningful weight and length.

Grippy and deep with dramatic tension, and a luscious, full body. The fruit is so minty and spiced, with black olive tapenade in the background. Robust tannins and a muscular body. Cracking value.

This comes from gnarled 70-year-old vines in neighbouring Gigondas. This is delicious: for a taste of the south, with its juicy red fruit, garrigue herbal lift, and sumptuous tannins, you couldn’t do much better than this.

This is a blend of two parcels and is the hidden gem of Sorrel’s range. 20% comes from Bessards, and 80% from Les Plantiers, just below Le Méal. These vines produce fruit with real power, and this wine has a great presence. But the floral tones and salty fruit make it more accessible than the Gréal, and mean it should start to open up a little earlier.

Le Gréal is a unique and special blend, and the signature wine of the Sorrel domaine. 90% is drawn from the lauded Le Méal parcel, at 10% from Les Gréffieux, on the Hermitage hillside. There is a small amount of Marsanne co-planted amongst the Syrah that makes it into the blend, adding freshness and mollifying the tannins. These Sorrel vines date back to 1928 and produce exquisite concentration. This is an astonishing wine, and consistently one of the hottest tickets in the Northern Rhône. It is fragrant, concentrated, powerful and poised. It demands cellaring, and will reward many times over for those who can wait.

This comes from old vines planted in the historic vineyard. It is undeniably powerful, and would benefit from a few years in the cellar.

Although Domaine Ogier is based in Ampuis in the Northern Rhône, Stéphane has made one very savvy investment in the South. From a site near Cairanne he produces this brilliant value Cotes du Rhône. It delivers fantastically juicy, lightly grippy length, with an abundance of sweet red fruit flavours, thanks to the 60% Grenache in the blend.

This is a creamy, dark, cassis-drenched Syrah with plenty of focus. There is so much black fruit depth here. It feels tight and coiled in youth, with density on the finish, and dark, silky tannins.

The Rostaings only make Côte Brune in the very best vintages, and 2017 fits the bill. Wonderful nose and palate, so fine and juicy, with silky acidity and excellent purity. There’s an energy here, with guts and depth, so much structure, and also so much classicism, but opulent, too, in its own way. Incredible.

This is only the second ever outing for this cuvée, following the first in 2016. It comes from a half hectare parcel just north of La Landonne which is home to 80-year-old vines planted by Pierre’s grandfather. He decided to isolate the parcel as he says every year these vines make such a pure and quintessential expression of Côte-Rôtie they deserved their own spotlight.

This is an emblematic cuvée that blends 15 lieux dits from around Côte-Rôtie. It showcases the Rostaing style well, with wonderful intensity, fruit purity, and decadent tannins. As ever, this is a wine to buy without hesitation.

This is a great site for Grenache, which loves its sandy, pebbly soils. The vines have an average age of 75 years, and the wine is concentrated but poised, with spice, floral notes, and fresh focus. Forget about it for a few years to enjoy at its best.

As the name suggests, this is higher up than the surrounding vineyards, and its elevation affords it a freshness and precision. Alongside the decadent berry fruit and garrigue herbs are notes of baked earth and roasted spices. What a wonderful Châteauneuf.

This is so much more than your average Côtes du Rhône. It comes from the vines that surround the cellar, sitting just beyond the northern border of Châteauneuf. It is so textured and fresh, with energy, purity, and density. Its juicy red fruits combine with a lovely salty minerality making for a charming, drinkable style.

Beautiful fragrance and elegance on this stunning southern white. There’s texture and restraint here, and a finish that just makes you want to have another glass.

This is a hugely powerful and impressive Châteauneuf. Old vines (100 years+), low yields, slightly cooler north-facing terraces, and Jaun-Paul's magic touch make for an exquisite wine.

This comes from many parcels dotted around the central and southern part of the appellation. Sylvain intelligently handles his fruit: the young vine bunches are destemmed, while the older vines’ stems are kept intact, combining them to produce a highly juicy, perfumed style. A glossy style bursting with fruit.

This is a new cuvée in 2019, made from 50+ year old vines grown on a south-facing slope. It has a salty grip, and expresses the purity of fruit that Syrah is capable of in the best hands. Elegant and structured for the long-haul.

This is a selection of the family’s favourite tonneaux (the large demi-muid barrels they like to use for ageing) of their larger Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée. Highly fruit-driven. It has a dramatic frame of black, cassis-like fruit, underscored by a touch of tapenade. The tannins are grippy and present. It’s a Crozes with some umph.

This is a blend of 15 different parcels around Cornas. It is so stylish and silky-smooth in 2019. This is wonderfully refined Syrah that still retains plenty of personality. Its fine-grained tannins are the mark of its excellent quality of fruit.

Pur Noir is only ever a single parcel, and only ever made in the best years. The parcel changes each time, depending on Stéphane’s preference. In 2019 it is drawn from Eygats, and only three barrels were made. Complex and focused, with a tense energy within. Floral and spiced on the finish.

The Plateau du Piedlong is the highest point in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, and has well-draining sandy soils. Its wine is distinctly different from Vieux Télégraphe: finer in frame, and much more obviously Grenache based (this variety makes up 90% of the blend, with the other 10% coming from Mourvèdre). Piedlong can sometimes feel a little earthy and rustic, but this 2019 is pure finesse, with sweet strawberry fruit and silky tannins, and a little lift of paprika spice.

Vieux Télégraphe’s 2019 demonstrates why this estate holds such an important place in Châteauneuf. There is a brilliant balance between dark, spiced fruit and a sustained, fresh finish. Soft silky tannins and the garrigue and tapenade character on the mid-palate add energy and depth. It is both rich and weighty, and long and suave.

Domaine du Clos des Tourelles is owned by the Perrin family of Ch de Beaucastel, and this Gigondas is made by the same brilliant winemaking team as their Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It comes from old Grenache vines planted in the heart of the village. It has gorgeously sweet, poised red fruits on the nose - confit strawberries, cranberries, and wild garrigue hebs. The palate is seamless and silken, A small dash of Syrah in the blend adds a light structural frame. This is a wonderful wine that will drink well from early on.