2019 Côte de Nuits

This large 7 hectare vineyard in the hills above Nuits-St-Georges has wonderful limestone soils, quite similar to those found on the hill of Corton, though with a much fresher climate, of course. It is wild and fresh, with a hedgerow fruit aroma and a long, and ripe finish. This has done particularly well in 2019.

One of the lesser known Nuits premiers crus, this vineyard is shared with Domaine Robert Chevillon, just below Aux Thorey, on the Vosne side of the appellation. Its clay-rich soils have yielded a big-shouldered, powerful Nuits, with a complex and surprisingly silky palate with an ample, pleasing finish.

Aloxe-Corton, which hugs the hill of Corton, may not be the most famous village in the Côte d’Or, overshadowed both metaphorically and literally by the grands crus, but in the hands of winemakers like Etienne the results can be impressive - and good value. This is spicy and dark-fruited on the nose, with a juicy palate that abounds with summer fruits and a voluminous, structured finish.

This remarkable village lieu dit sits directly above Bonnes Mares, Clos de Tart, and Clos des Lambrays. The Clair parcel is situated just above their Bonnes Mares parcel. Up here there is virtually no top soil at all, and the vines plunge straight into the limestone bedrock. The wine has a dark-fruited depth, with a tannin structure that feels so sumptuous and silky. It’s hard to believe this isn’t a premier cru.

Another new addition to the Cathiard cellar in 2019. It feels slightly more structured than the Aux Chaumes at this early stage, with a saline drive.

This wine is not only where his cellars are based, it is also the calling card of the domaine. It shows a burst of juicy red berries on the nose, with a lifted, minty freshness. The tannins are so strawberry-soft and supple that the overall impression is of an incredibly silky texture, that might feel like it were missing some structure if it weren’t for the elegant freshness of the Hautes-Côtes acidity. Nice peppery nuance to the cranberry fruit palate.

This might just be the best village wine out there. It comes from four parcels which host a variety of vine ages. The relatively high proportion of younger vines gives this cuvée an explosive, juicy power. There are such voluptuous tannins and depth of fruit. It is powerful and silky, and utterly delicious.

This is one of the most complete Gevrey village wines you will find: multiple parcels scattered around the village, they vinify them in three parts. One part comes from the light stony soil at the bottom of the valley, giving a cool elegance; the second is a cluster of parcels in the middle of the village on clay soil, giving body and structure; the third is a group of parcels below the grands crus, giving a complexity and finesse. The vines are all aged between 45 and 85 years, and the concentration and complexity this wine delivers for the price is hard to beat. It has a beautifully grippy tension in 2019.

This comes from a single parcel just across the road from Chambolle-Musigny, Les Bons Batons. It has the perfect combination of tannins, fruit and acidity. With notes of rose petal and fresh berries, and a fine, lacy line of acidity with supply tannins, this feels more like a Chambolle than a Bourgogne. Considerable ageing potential.

This single vineyard Côtes de Nuits village wine is a firm Lay & Wheeler favourite. It has a superbly lifted cherry fruit nose, with some excellent minty freshness on the peppery palate. Exactly what you’d look for in this appellation, with the intensity and dimensions to out-perform some grander communal wines with a few years in bottle.

This single vineyard is located on the north side of Nuits, near Vosne-Romanée. It has a hint of that silkiness, but in its youth, the Nuits structure and stature dominate. This is a great example of the bold and muscular Nuits: fully bodied and full flavoured, with 2019’s brilliant freshness.

Clos de Vougeot might be a grand cru, but in the wrong hands it can be ungainly and heavy. In the hands of the Grivots, however, it is a finely woven, detailed and poised wine with beautiful power and length. The structure here is a little austere in its youth, but this is just the innate structure of the site taking centre stage so early on. This bodes well for some complex ageing, and the fruit will unfurl around the tannin architecture in time.

This cuvée first appeared in 2015. It is made from the young(er) vines of the Clos de l’Arlot that had once been labelled ‘Petit Arlot’. It consistently proves its worth as a separate bottling with every new vintage: this is sweet and precise on the nose, with bursting redcurrants, violets, and graphite. The palate shows a wonderfully classical freshness, and some attractive, firm tannins that are expertly married to the red berry volume, making it ready for drinking in just a few years, I expect.

This vineyard is in the hills above Vosne, and enjoys a cooler microclimate thanks to its 437m elevation. There is a tiny bit of Pinot Blanc grown amongst Chardonnay here, and this wine has a lovely apricot perfume, and fresh citrus zip on the palate. Beautifully textured.

40% Gamay with the rest Pinot Noir, from a 38 year old vineyard. Great density, with crunchy berries, grip, and long, fine finish.

This is a very special village lieu dit. It is sandwiched between two grands crus: Charmes-Chambertin and Griotte-Chambertin. You can really appreciate the calibre of this vineyard in the delicious profile of this 2019, introduced by the sumptuous but cool red fruit fragrance, and followed by a crystalline palate with perfectly expressed velvet tannins. All the fruit was destemmed for this cuvée, and the gentle supporting note of new oak in the background is on song.

As the name suggests, this is situated in the heart of Chambolle-Musigny, and is a monopole of the domaine that we’d argue is premier cru quality. There’s lots of limestone in the soil here, and the 2019 is agile and bright, with juicy flow.

This is one of the standouts in the Grivot cellar in 2019: plush, concentrated, and bursting with energy. The slippery smooth tannins wrapped around glossy dark fruit give the wine a lift and luminosity that sets it apart. The clay soils in the southern part of Nuits, sometimes accused of producing rustic wines, have helped the vines glide through the dry growing season of 2019, and have resulted in this glorious wine.

This is a mix of three plots across the grand cru. It has a increible intensity on the nose, laden with crushed raspberries and bright cranberry notes. There is something satisfyingly astringent on the palate - the tannins adding structure and definition, and promising excellent potential with some age.

Amongst some stiff competition, this is regarded as one of the finest premiers crus in Vosne. It’s up-hill position gives it lots of light, and exposure to cooling breezes. Nicolas has been buying the fruit from this particular parcel since 1997: it is his oldest contract, and represents a special place in his offering. Nicely spiced, and with a good body of dark, ripe fruits, and a floral note on the finish. Glossy tannins remind you this couldn’t really be anything other than top drawer Vosne.

This remote east-facing vineyard sits at an elevation of 400m. Mark explains that on a crisp summer morning you can see all the way to Mont Blanc from here. Its position means, although bathed in morning sun, it does not have much hot afternoon sun. The fruit ripens slowly here, and it is often the last parcel of the domaine to be picked. It is suave, refined, and effortlessly elegant.

This monopole grand cru in the heart of Vosne between two Domaine de la Romanée-Conti monopoles - La Tâche and La Romanée-Conti - is the flagship wine of the estate. Its increased quality in recent years is the primary reason this domaine’s star is in the ascendency. This has a wealth of fruit, and the grace and power of this superb site are evident in the fine, elegant length. Complex, voluminous, and poised. Unquestionably one of the finest iterations of this site.

This wine has been bottled as a single vineyard cuvée by Amélie’s father for many years, and remains the flagship wine of the estate. It is just over a hectare and sits right in the heart of the appellation, just below the village itself. The alluvial soils, particularly at the bottom of the parcel, are well-draining. The vines age between 15 and 70 years, and the wine has a brilliantly grippy fresh fruit drive with ample tannins and a spicy backbone.

These vines were planted in 1965 and 1972. Aux Murgers is one of the warmer, and therefore earlier ripening sites in Nuits, and this 2019 is generous, luscious, whilst still vibrant, thanks to good picking decisions and sensitive vinification.

Nicole has three parcels within this grand cru, one in the northwest corner (where everyone wants to be) tucked up next to Musigny. In 2019 she vinified all three separately, which helps add complexity and layers to the finished wine. This is spicy and deep, with some sinewy muscle flexing underneath the berry fruit and savoury tannins. An outstanding Clos de Vougeot, so long and refined, but with some power beneath.

You won’t find much better than this at village level. This is a wine of terrific complexity and nuance, with much of the texture and nuance you can find in her premiers crus, just with a slightly more forward and open fruit, and lighter tannins.

This was the first parcel they converted to biodynamics in 1997, so this lovely single parcel of vines in Gevrey-Chambertin has now benefitted from over two decades of low-intervention farming. It is also planted with a north/south orientation, and in the fierce heat of 2019 has retained all the crunchy, juicy freshness you would hope to find. Impeccable Bourgogne.

This is a brilliant ruby red, with an exuberantly crunchy red fruit-scented nose. The structure is cool and poised with bright acidity and good density of saline fruit. Lovely purity and drive.

This well-positioned vineyard on the Vosne side of the appellation sits on the slope, enjoying plenty of sunshine and the cooling ventilation of a constant breeze, keeping the fruit in excellent health during the growing season. This wine feels so gourmand, with rich, creamy tannins, and a dark, brambly length, with a suave, silky finish.

The Grivots have at their fingertips lots of small parcels across the village, resulting in a wonderfully complete and complex village wine. In 2019 it is ripe, full-flavoured and bursting with dark hedgerow notes, and structured but silky tannins. A relatively full-bodied wine, it has a well-balanced weight and a long satisfying finish.

This is always one of the prettiest in the Grivot cellar, and in 2019, it has a full and floral bouquet of fresh strawberries and peonies. With sweet, rippling tannins and bright freshness, this is a great Pinot Noir.

This vineyard spans over 7 hectares of limestone hillside, accounting for almost half the domaine’s production. It has a slightly darker, more deeply structured and brooding presence than the Mont des Oiseaux, with firmer, more savoury fruit. The palate swirls with mulberries and spiced blackberries, with a long, tense finish, and superbly sustained freshness.

This was another important purchase that the domaine made in 2005, which saw them take over 1.37 hectares of prime Vosne-Romanée premier cru. The deal saw Dujac take another slice of the cru - the parcel just next to de Montille. It has such amazing lift and expression. The 100% whole bunch technique is fully justified here and the wine has such delicious tannins. Highly in demand, and for very good reason.

A recent addition to the Cathiard portfolio from Burgundy's 'other' white grape. Fresh, bright, and invitingly balanced.

Duroché owns a sizable 1 hectare parcel of this premier cru. It soars with dark cherry power and persistence. The fruit and tannins are balanced in such harmonious poise, and the vineyard’s classic cool undertow is on magnificent display in 2019.

Aux Boudots is a magnificent vineyard that borders Aux Malconsorts in Vosne. It produces some of the most luxurious and decadent wines of Nuits, with much of its neighbours character intertwined with its structred and muscular frame.

This premier cru has an enviable exposure, similar to Clos St Jacques in Gevrey. These 65 year old vines were planted by Sébastien’s great grandfather when he was a tenant farmer. Wonderfully cool but ripe, intense fruit.

If you are looking for good value in Vosne-Romanée, you’re on the right track here. It comes from three well-placed parcels, including Aux Réas which extends on from the premier cru, along with La Colombière, and Au Dessus de la Rivière. It is dark and deep, with luscious black cherries on the palate and a smooth, creamy texture. This is a brilliant example of Burgundy’s most highly-prized village.

65% of this comes from Rouges du Bas, the rest from the Quartier de Nuits section of the vineyard. It has a poised freshness and wonderfully fine tannins, giving the overall effect of effortless elegance. From 2016, the sisters started experimenting with a small amount of whole bunch, and in 2019 have continued with 15% in the blend, which delivers great expression in this wine.

This is the flagship wine of the estate, the one on which its considerable reputation has been built. Often the most closed in youth, it has the power and structure to evolve magnificently with time. Phenomenally complex and compelling.

From five parcels in four different sites, this Vosne is spicy, fragrant, and incredibly long. Beautiful energy on the finish.

This is arguably the best placed village parcel in the whole of Gevrey, sandwiched between Griotte- and Charmes-Chambertin. It makes such an elegant style, with finer, silkier tannins than other village blends. It is open and juicy, with a delicately mineral, complex finish.

This comes from a parcel called Basses Mazières, just below Suchots. It is dark in colour and has swirling, heady aromas of dark cherries. The palate has a distinct freshness and nice grip. Intense, and crystalline.

This wonderful vineyard is perched in the middle of the Combe de Lavaux - the cooler south-east facing hillside in Gevrey’s northern sector. It is right next to one of the finest of all premiers crus, Clos St Jacques. This wine is nuanced, deep and wonderfully long.

When he purchased his Malconsorts parcel in 2005, Etienne decided to vinify this section, which forms a small enclave within the grand cru La Tâche, separately. The cuvée is named after his mother. It is so toasty and refined, voluptuous and deep. It is a masterclass in controlled power and floral finesse.

This vineyard lies right in the middle of the village, and Ghislaine says because it lies in a little dip, it’s always a cool spot, giving it an edge in warmer years. The vines are now 40 years old, and really hitting their stride. In 2019 it has produced a wine so quintessentially Chambolle, with a superb floral intensity, complex palate with layers of red berries, blood orange, smoke, and spice. Exceptional.

Delicate and perfumed on the nose. When the quality of fruit is this good, it becomes irrelevant its classification is merely Bourgogne.

Bruno Clair has an impressive 10 hectares in his home village of Marsannay, and bottles five separate cuvées, including this wonderful iteration from a single parcel at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its name (meaning “fat heads”) refers not to anybody involved in its cultivation, but rather the large rocks that show through the surface of the soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, and in 2019 has peppery red fruit and a fresh crunch that runs through the mineral tannins. Quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair. Since being bottled it has evolved to reveal a wonderfully floral aroma with a supple palate, so poised and juicy. This will drink brilliantly from early on.

Aux Réas is an excellent village lieu dit that a number of growers choose to bottle separately. It sits at the southern end of the village, and its wines can offer some of neighbouring Nuits’ structure and firmness, with the supple, rippling fruit of classical Vosne.

This is another recent addition to the Felettig stable. It comes from the northern sector of the Côte de Nuits, from the commune just north of Gevrey-Chambertin. Its 300m elevation and 20% incline give it freshness and grippy precision.

Les Suchots is a decent sized premier cru, and shared amongst many of the finest growers here; but Alix’s 2019 might just take the prize for Suchots of the vintage. It has the vineyard’s typical structure, broad tannins, and dark fruit depth. But what sets this apart are the tannins: they add an elegance with their smoothness, giving the wine that great texture of apparent sweetness the best Pinots have. Powerful, and supremely well balanced.

Domaine du Clos Frantin owns a parcel in the Champs Traversins part of this vineyard, high on the hill, which is noted for its fine expression. This is nicely silky and spicy, with graphite notes alongside the red berry fruit. Understated, svelte, and very sophisticated.

This is a blend of two parcels, one planted in the 1970s and 1980s, the other in the 1950s. It is raised in 50% new oak, which gives drama and texture to the sumptuous Vosne fruit.

This comes from 65 year old vines, that in 2019 have created a spicy purity. Les Charmes might take its name from the trees that were once planted here, but it is, incidentally, a particularly charming wine across the vintages, highlighted in this 2019.

This is sourced from two parcel, one with very old vnes that yields small, concentrated berries, and wonderfully balanced acidity and fruit, with smooth tannins.

Suchots of one of the largest and most famous premiers crus in Vosne-Romanée, just below Les Beaux-Monts and Aux Brûlées, with Echezeaux to its north, and Romanée-Saint-Vivant to its south. It makes a powerful, structured, and spicy wine, with fresh elegance beneath.

This clos is a monopole of the domaine found right at the centre point of Gevrey, between the grand cru slope and the Combe de Lavaux. There is a spicy depth of fruit on the nose, and a surprisingly fine, elegant frame on the palate. It always has a sweet salinity to it, which complements the nicely ripe fruit in 2019. A charming Gevrey premier cru that should drink well from early on. One of Bruno’s personal favourites.

Bruno Clair is one of only five producers of this revered premier cru, that many regard alongside the grands crus. It is steep by Burgundian standards, with clay-rich soil. This wine is heavenly - so precise and elegant, with poised, savoury fruit. There is something so tender here, though not at all sweet. It is one of the most grown-up Gevreys you can find.

This lovely village vineyard lies right next to the family home and winery, extending out like a garden from the cellar doors. Their father had rented it to a neighbour, but the well-maintained vineyard came back under the domaine’s control again from 2017. It is a full-bodied, deeply-fruited village wine with superb density and a cool, supple, rich drive.

This wonderful parcel sits just beneath the cluster of houses in the village centre. It is deeply perfumed with dark cherries and cranberry spice. Notes of peonies accent the palate, and the wine has a beguiling length. Hauntingly beautiful.

Mugneret-Gibourg has just one parcel within this sizable grand cru, planted in 1954. It is one of the finest examples of the vineyard, with depth, structure, length and complexity.

This cuvée uses the fruit from the younger vines in the Clos de l’Arlot premier cru, found at the southern side of the vineyard. It is brightly perfumed with honeysuckle and lemon meringue pie. The palate has a smooth, lemon curd texture, and some nice Conference pear character on the length.

One of a rare breed, a Nuits St Georges 1er Cru blanc. Only 900 bottles are made every year. Full and fleshy, with a bright, mineral drive.

This uncelebrated ‘other’ white grape from Burgundy is enjoying a moment: the wines are fresh, vibrant, wonderful for early drinking and offer unparalleled value. The Felettig example is everything we’re looking for: salty, fresh, and moreish.

A classic example from this cooler region in the hills above the Côte de Beaune. It is peachy and smooth, with lovely tension and a silky texture.

This is one of few prestigious whites of the Côte de Nuits, and comes from one of the estate’s two monopole vineyards. Clos de l’Arlot is the steep, walled, amphitheatre vineyard just next to the cellars. There is fabulous structure here, with intense orchard fruit, and a weighty palate with plenty of dry extract and vibrant freshness. Serious stuff, and not to be underestimated.

This plot was once considered in the same breath as Chambertin and other great sites, so it now constitutes a real bargain. It is fruit, flamboyant, and fragrant in 2019, bursting with the scent of crushed raspberries. There is some stony minerality on the palate and delicious, crunchy little tannins. Bright and enticing.

This premier cru is one of Chambolle’s finest, and right on the border with Morey, just beneath Bonnes Mares. A quarter of the vines are extremely old, having been planted in 1902, with the rest between 1950 and 1980. It has a brilliant leafy edge to the red fruit, with a fluid, harmonious length. So poised and long.

This comes from an astonishing 18 different parcels, many in the vineyards facing Chambolle-Musigny. Poor weather at flowering has, sadly, cut the normal yield in half. But what remains is just lovely - juicy and energetic, with soft berry fruit and a salty acidity. Good precision on the finish. If you’re quick enough to get it, it’s one of the bargains of the list.

Etienne’s parcel is just next to Grands Echezeaux and has produced a magnificent wine in 2019. The fruit is so exuberant and full bodied, with a long, powerful finish of tremendous intensity.

This wine bursts with cranberries and sweet spice, with the lift of freshly cracked pink peppercorns. The palate has a nice texture with some firm acidity weaving through soft red fruit. The tannins are fairly soft and gentle but provide just enough grip to give the wine a long, detailed finish.

This grand cru needs little introduction. It is, in the eyes of many, the greatest site in Burgundy, where Pinot Noir reaches its apogee.The Tawse Musigny is always a fine-boned wine, and made in an elegant style that means it approaches its drinking window ahead of some neighbours’, but with the signature Musigny svelte-like tannins on full display. Destemmed by hand. Volumes in 2019 are small, and demand will far outstrip supply.

This comes from two plots: Treux & Rouges du Bas. The tiny volume is raised in 100% new oak, and the wine has a luxurious, toasty feel. There is so much body and structure within, which carries the oak brilliantly. It has an intense and lifted nose with dramatic concentration. The palate is bursting with crushed raspberries; there is real power and umph here. Opulent and textured.

This is a little paler in colour than the other grands crus. The extraction has been carefully handled to draw out some lovely silkiness. There is a little light peppery spice on the palate that adds freshness and a little structure. Very long and detailed.

Grands-Echezeaux is actually much smaller than Echezeaux, and its wines are much rarer. It can often, in the right hands, hold the edge in terms of quality. It’s hard to choose between Alix’s Echezeaux and Grands-Echezeaux this year, they are both exceptional, though this, drawn from just 0.2 hectares, is certainly the rare one, with very limited production. This is so powerful and focused, with substantial tannin texture, it should hold for a few decades.

There are few premiers crus prized as highly as this. Many put Les Amoureuses on a par with grands crus, and it has stolen the hearts of many. It is the quintessential expression of Chambolle-Musigny, brimming with sweet redcurrant fruit, and gliding along on silky tannins.

Clos de Vougeot is a huge vineyard, so it matters where you’re placed. Jean-Marc Millot’s plot is in Grand Maupertui, which borders Grands-Echézeaux, often considered the finest part of the vineyard. This has ample fruit density and lift, with powerful but satin-like tannins.

A spectacularly well placed vineyard that enjoyed a commanding view, and its perched just above Clos de Tart Grand Cru.

Clos Frantin owns 0.63 hectares of the Clos, running from the bottom to top on the south side of the vineyard. This is yet another example where this vineyard - sometimes dismissed in the company of other grands crus - has excelled in 2019. Pure and poised, with smooth edges and delicious fruit depth.

This comes from two sites in Vosne, one bordering Suchots (Hautes Maizières) and the other Clos Vougeot (Les Violettes). It has an abundant, supple red fruit character, with the aroma of wild strawberries introducing this poised and elegant Vosne. There is delicious volume on the palate that culminates in a long and sophisticated finish.

These vines were planted in 1927, and lie just under Echézeaux and next to Clos de Vougeot and a stone’s throw from Suchots, which is pretty unbelievable positioning for a village parcel.This is, as always, intense and structured, with beautiful, dark energy, and muscular but svelte tannins.

Only produced in tiny quantities. This cru did extremely well in 2019, and has produced powerful wines that should last for decades. 50% whole bunch and 50% new oak. Great depth and mineral precision.

This is packed with flavour. It has a full and deep palate, and more structured, meaty tannins than the rest of the Horées wines, showing all the muscle and density Gevrey is known for. The fruit is a dark, intense, cassis-laced delight.

This is fast becoming one of Burgundy’s most sought-after wines. The vineyard was planted in 1920, and you can feel the power of the old vines in the glass. There is so much power. But it is delivered with such effortless charm. Saline, savoury, and utterly superb.

The Durochés have five parcels within Charmes. The 2019 is so completely charming, with an effortless finesse about its frame. Wonderfully perfumed with sweet red berries and a little spice. And a great finish.

This comes from vines planted in the original Clos St-Denis, in the heart of the grand cru. 25% whole bunch is played off against the new oak with commanding skill. A full and energetic wine with plenty of depth.

This is one of the best terroirs among Morey’s premiers crus, just below Clos de la Roche. It has made a deliciously opulent wine in 2019, with a rich voluminous body that has a gorgeous fresh and lifting line of acidity and such well integrated tannins that it simply glides across the palate. Wonderful. Best value premier cru red to be found?

This is a blend of two parcels, Les Congées and Clos Solon, with an average vine age over 55 years. It has some satisfyingly big shoulders, padded with dark fruit and intense, silky tannins. An absolutely brilliant wine for the price.

This sits just below Clos St Denis, in the heart of the village. It offers up a deep and rich nose, laden with wild hedgerow fruit. It is a powerful wine from one of the top performing villages in 2019. Only 450 bottles made.

Stéphane’s parcel of 65 year old vines lie right in the heart of the old Clos, the original part of the appellation. There is a delicate salinity beneath the fruit and an understated density here. This is a serious wine displaying graceful purity and a gorgeous length. An absolute triumph in 2019.

With Richebourg and Cros Parantoux as neighbours, you can expect great things from this vineyard. Amelie has five separate plots across half a hectare. The site is so steep and inaccessible that no tractors can reach it, and all work is done by horse or hand. The 2019 delivers a concentration and persistence commensurate with its fine position: lavish red fruit, tight acidity, and powerful but velvet-like tannins.

Rossignol-Trapet owns a very fine two parcels of this formidable grand cru. The vines were mostly planted in the 1950s, with a small section of young vines planted in 2000, and another small section planted way back in 1919. It has magnificent structure, with a voluminous length. It remains subtle and restrained on the nose, but builds in power, and has a persistent finish of dark fruits and mineral spice.

The clay soils of this well-placed parcel produce a wine of depth and roundness. It has an abundance of small, granular tannins that give a subtle spiciness underneath the dark fruit. It’s a clear step up in complexity, and should age with elegance.

This is the only parcel the domaine bottles separately from the other Gevrey village parcels. That is thanks to its quite incredible situation, and the consistency of quality it delivers every year. It is sandwiched just between grands crus Charmes-Chambertin and Griotte-Chambertin. It’s almost unbelievable it’s only a village lieu dit. The Rossignol-Trapet vines lie right alongside the Joseph Roty Charmes Vieilles Vignes parcel, but the soil is more like Griotte-Chambertin just to the north. It has such charming sweet strawberry and cherry fruit on the nose, and lovely savoury tannins that give it an excellent but understated body. Only seven barrels of this were made, so it will be scarce.

Ah Richebourg… where to start with you. The potency within is astonishing. It has this incredible combination of herbal red fruit and spicy sucrosity. Made in such limited quantities, this was a great privilege to taste.

This steep-sloped vineyard is one of Gevrey’s most highly-regarded premiers crus. It makes a wine of structure and depth, with broad, sumptuous tannins and heady dark fruit.

Fixin doesn’t have any grand crus, but in Amélie’s eyes, this is a pretty close estimation. It has very shallow soils, and the vines, now aged 30-80 years old, dig deep. 30% whole bunch brings a fleshy, plump fruit core to the wine that has ample tannins, and dark licorice spice. Crunchy cool fruit, and a long, mineral finish.

If Les Crais is her father’s cuvée, then this is Amélie’s. The wine used to go into their village blend, but Amélie has been bottling it separately since 2013. The vines are now 70 years old, and in 2019 she has expertly used 35% whole bunch in the tank to add sweet fruit tones and off-set the crunchy, more savoury aspect of the fruit. The combination is a triumph. This is fresh, vibrant, and satisfyingly sappy.

A wonderfully ethereal, elegant style of Gevrey, sourced from eight parcels across the southern section of the appellation. The density of tannins is silky and refined. It feels light-footed and flowing, with a tantalisingly fresh and balanced length. A small, well-judged amount of whole bunch adds just a hint of lift. Skilfully done.

This is a dark, wild, heady glass. It has the deep fruit and toothsome tannins of Fixin, which lies just north of Gevrey-Chambertin, but also that typical Méo silkiness. There is a minty character to the red fruit, and a beautifully held savoury finish.

This tiny premier cru is set in a dip that was once a quarry (as the name alludes to). Full of black cherries, with a creamy texture and silky length. Structured and complex.

Most of the fruit comes from the Côte de Nuits, with the majority from around Nuits itself. It is a brilliant crimson colour, transparent and bright. The nose has a pretty red fruit and floral aroma, with hints of blueberries and cinnamon spice. The body is particularly supple with soft, sleek tannins. This should drink well from early on. Juicy and easy to drink.

Les Cazetiers lies right alongside Clos Saint-Jacques on the Combe de Lavaux. Its easterly exposure combined with cool, elevated position make for outstanding freshness in the wines. With plenty of smoky, savoury new oak to support the scintillating fruit, this should begin to unfurl magnificently with a few years in bottle.

This has become the signature wine of the domaine and is unquestionably the jewel in the crown of a very strong set of 2019s. It is drawn from three parcels, one of which was planted over 75 years ago. The fruit from these very old vines goes in as whole bunch, whilst the rest is destemmed. This wine is so detailed and restrained, with a supple, fresh texture. Wild berries and light toasty spice. Completely delicious.

This tiny premier cru is set in a dip that was once a quarry (as the name alludes to). Full of black cherries, with a creamy texture and silky length. Structured and complex.

This vineyard lies just next to some of Nuits-St-Georges’s finest premiers crus, at the top of the hill, sheltered by the fringe of woodland above. It has this distinctive pink peppercorn note with fresh redcurrants on the nose. The tannins are slightly more granular and grippy than the previous wines, and add a pretty structure to this wine, which bodes well for its evolution over time.

This cuvée has only been made by Domaine Felettig since 2018. It comes from a half hectare plot on the gentle slope towards the top of the Montagne de Beaune, just underneath Montée Rouge.

The domaine has vines in two plots on either side of Nuits: Les Chariots in the south and Aux Lavières in the north. There is a Chambolle signature woven through the Nuits fruit here: nice structure, but overall still very silky.

From vines that lie directly opposite Chambolle, this is an energetic, intense, and juicy Bourgogne. It is brimming with berry fruit on the nose and the palate has some charming toastiness, with particularly elegant tannins for a Bourgogne.

Unlike some Côteaux Bourguignons which are a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, this is 100% Gamay, from a parcel of very old vines the Grivots inherited via the Jayers, one of whom was married to Etienne’s father. When tasting, Etienne mentioned that Henri Jayer once told him to never, ever rip out these vines. He has since kept his word, and it is now one of the wines that Etienne is most animated about in their whole cellar. 2019 is a tiny vintage though, with the volumes reduced from a usual 20 barrels to just eight. It is dark, dense, and impressively powerful, with a full and exuberant palate that fans out with black cassis concentration. Certainly not your run of the mill Gamay.

Cool air comes down the valley between Morey-St-Denis and Gevrey-Chambertin, meaning Latricières is a little slower to mature than the other Gevrey grands crus. It has a soft, sweet red berry character, with a cool mineral freshness underneath, and a little lift of wild herbs.

This wine is exclusive to Lay & Wheeler in the UK. It is a steep site that sits right up against Aux Boudots on the Vosne side of the appellation. It has the finesse of Vosne and the power of Nuits - a pretty appealing combination. Some of the very old vines were recently replaced, so the production of this site is strictly limited at the moment.

From a parcel in Concoeur-et-Courboin, on the hills just above Vosne. It is sappy and fruity, pale, and approachable, with a delicate astringency that adds elegance and structure.

This is one of the greatest sites in Burgundy, and often gives grands crus a run for their money. This 2019 is a delicate pale ruby, with superbly lifted aromatics on the nose. The palate is powerful and precise with some graphite tension. Outstanding.

This was so powerful, toasty, and deep. Absolutely spectacular in its quality of fruit, powerful structure, and nuanced length. Wait a while for this to reach its peak.

This vineyard is at the north end of the village, on the border with Mazoyères-Chambertin. The soils are high in limestone, and produce a wine that is rich in dark wild berries and clove spice. It has an intensity and volumes that will unfurl with time.