2019 Côte de Nuits

Clos de Vougeot might be a grand cru, but in the wrong hands it can be ungainly and heavy. In the hands of the Grivots, however, it is a finely woven, detailed and poised wine with beautiful power and length. The structure here is a little austere in its youth, but this is just the innate structure of the site taking centre stage so early on. This bodes well for some complex ageing, and the fruit will unfurl around the tannin architecture in time.

This is one of the standouts in the Grivot cellar in 2019: plush, concentrated, and bursting with energy. The slippery smooth tannins wrapped around glossy dark fruit give the wine a lift and luminosity that sets it apart. The clay soils in the southern part of Nuits, sometimes accused of producing rustic wines, have helped the vines glide through the dry growing season of 2019, and have resulted in this glorious wine.

The Grivots have at their fingertips lots of small parcels across the village, resulting in a wonderfully complete and complex village wine. In 2019 it is ripe, full-flavoured and bursting with dark hedgerow notes, and structured but silky tannins. A relatively full-bodied wine, it has a well-balanced weight and a long satisfying finish.

This is always one of the prettiest in the Grivot cellar, and in 2019, it has a full and floral bouquet of fresh strawberries and peonies. With sweet, rippling tannins and bright freshness, this is a great Pinot Noir.

Unlike some Côteaux Bourguignons which are a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, this is 100% Gamay, from a parcel of very old vines the Grivots inherited via the Jayers, one of whom was married to Etienne’s father. When tasting, Etienne mentioned that Henri Jayer once told him to never, ever rip out these vines. He has since kept his word, and it is now one of the wines that Etienne is most animated about in their whole cellar. 2019 is a tiny vintage though, with the volumes reduced from a usual 20 barrels to just eight. It is dark, dense, and impressively powerful, with a full and exuberant palate that fans out with black cassis concentration. Certainly not your run of the mill Gamay.

Aux Lavières is tucked just beneath 1er Cru Aux Murgers, on the Vosne side of the appellation, and it’s quite a step up on your regular village cuvée. It is deeply structured, with layers of tobacco, spice, coffee, and dark cherries. Mineral tannins and a sumptuous fresh finish.

This is perennially one of the most in-demand wines in Burgundy. In 2019 it is dazzling. There is such a massive and distinguished power within the depths of this profound wine. A legend in the making.

This wine has earned a strong following for its superb quality, and will no doubt sell out quickly on release. As ever, this is suave and intense, with an opulent and dazzling freshness. The finish goes on and on. What a treat this will be in the future.

Beaux Monts is always one of the most impressive wines from this cellar. It is a beautiful vineyard in Vosne, and one of Etienne’s personal favourites. It has a rich, dark nose, with some softer, more voluptuous fruit edges. The palate shows wonderful finesse and elegance. Completely delicious.