2019 Côte de Nuits

Clos de Vougeot might be a grand cru, but in the wrong hands it can be ungainly and heavy. In the hands of the Grivots, however, it is a finely woven, detailed and poised wine with beautiful power and length. The structure here is a little austere in its youth, but this is just the innate structure of the site taking centre stage so early on. This bodes well for some complex ageing, and the fruit will unfurl around the tannin architecture in time.

This remote east-facing vineyard sits at an elevation of 400m. Mark explains that on a crisp summer morning you can see all the way to Mont Blanc from here. Its position means, although bathed in morning sun, it does not have much hot afternoon sun. The fruit ripens slowly here, and it is often the last parcel of the domaine to be picked. It is suave, refined, and effortlessly elegant.

This monopole grand cru in the heart of Vosne between two Domaine de la Romanée-Conti monopoles - La Tâche and La Romanée-Conti - is the flagship wine of the estate. Its increased quality in recent years is the primary reason this domaine’s star is in the ascendency. This has a wealth of fruit, and the grace and power of this superb site are evident in the fine, elegant length. Complex, voluminous, and poised. Unquestionably one of the finest iterations of this site.

Nicole has three parcels within this grand cru, one in the northwest corner (where everyone wants to be) tucked up next to Musigny. In 2019 she vinified all three separately, which helps add complexity and layers to the finished wine. This is spicy and deep, with some sinewy muscle flexing underneath the berry fruit and savoury tannins. An outstanding Clos de Vougeot, so long and refined, but with some power beneath.

65% of this comes from Rouges du Bas, the rest from the Quartier de Nuits section of the vineyard. It has a poised freshness and wonderfully fine tannins, giving the overall effect of effortless elegance. From 2016, the sisters started experimenting with a small amount of whole bunch, and in 2019 have continued with 15% in the blend, which delivers great expression in this wine.

This is the flagship wine of the estate, the one on which its considerable reputation has been built. Often the most closed in youth, it has the power and structure to evolve magnificently with time. Phenomenally complex and compelling.

When he purchased his Malconsorts parcel in 2005, Etienne decided to vinify this section, which forms a small enclave within the grand cru La Tâche, separately. The cuvée is named after his mother. It is so toasty and refined, voluptuous and deep. It is a masterclass in controlled power and floral finesse.

This vineyard lies right in the middle of the village, and Ghislaine says because it lies in a little dip, it’s always a cool spot, giving it an edge in warmer years. The vines are now 40 years old, and really hitting their stride. In 2019 it has produced a wine so quintessentially Chambolle, with a superb floral intensity, complex palate with layers of red berries, blood orange, smoke, and spice. Exceptional.

Domaine du Clos Frantin owns a parcel in the Champs Traversins part of this vineyard, high on the hill, which is noted for its fine expression. This is nicely silky and spicy, with graphite notes alongside the red berry fruit. Understated, svelte, and very sophisticated.

This comes from 65 year old vines, that in 2019 have created a spicy purity. Les Charmes might take its name from the trees that were once planted here, but it is, incidentally, a particularly charming wine across the vintages, highlighted in this 2019.

Bruno Clair is one of only five producers of this revered premier cru, that many regard alongside the grands crus. It is steep by Burgundian standards, with clay-rich soil. This wine is heavenly - so precise and elegant, with poised, savoury fruit. There is something so tender here, though not at all sweet. It is one of the most grown-up Gevreys you can find.

Mugneret-Gibourg has just one parcel within this sizable grand cru, planted in 1954. It is one of the finest examples of the vineyard, with depth, structure, length and complexity.

Etienne’s parcel is just next to Grands Echezeaux and has produced a magnificent wine in 2019. The fruit is so exuberant and full bodied, with a long, powerful finish of tremendous intensity.

This grand cru needs little introduction. It is, in the eyes of many, the greatest site in Burgundy, where Pinot Noir reaches its apogee.The Tawse Musigny is always a fine-boned wine, and made in an elegant style that means it approaches its drinking window ahead of some neighbours’, but with the signature Musigny svelte-like tannins on full display. Destemmed by hand. Volumes in 2019 are small, and demand will far outstrip supply.

This comes from two plots: Treux & Rouges du Bas. The tiny volume is raised in 100% new oak, and the wine has a luxurious, toasty feel. There is so much body and structure within, which carries the oak brilliantly. It has an intense and lifted nose with dramatic concentration. The palate is bursting with crushed raspberries; there is real power and umph here. Opulent and textured.

Grands-Echezeaux is actually much smaller than Echezeaux, and its wines are much rarer. It can often, in the right hands, hold the edge in terms of quality. It’s hard to choose between Alix’s Echezeaux and Grands-Echezeaux this year, they are both exceptional, though this, drawn from just 0.2 hectares, is certainly the rare one, with very limited production. This is so powerful and focused, with substantial tannin texture, it should hold for a few decades.

There are few premiers crus prized as highly as this. Many put Les Amoureuses on a par with grands crus, and it has stolen the hearts of many. It is the quintessential expression of Chambolle-Musigny, brimming with sweet redcurrant fruit, and gliding along on silky tannins.

Clos de Vougeot is a huge vineyard, so it matters where you’re placed. Jean-Marc Millot’s plot is in Grand Maupertui, which borders Grands-Echézeaux, often considered the finest part of the vineyard. This has ample fruit density and lift, with powerful but satin-like tannins.

Clos Frantin owns 0.63 hectares of the Clos, running from the bottom to top on the south side of the vineyard. This is yet another example where this vineyard - sometimes dismissed in the company of other grands crus - has excelled in 2019. Pure and poised, with smooth edges and delicious fruit depth.

This is fast becoming one of Burgundy’s most sought-after wines. The vineyard was planted in 1920, and you can feel the power of the old vines in the glass. There is so much power. But it is delivered with such effortless charm. Saline, savoury, and utterly superb.

Stéphane’s parcel of 65 year old vines lie right in the heart of the old Clos, the original part of the appellation. There is a delicate salinity beneath the fruit and an understated density here. This is a serious wine displaying graceful purity and a gorgeous length. An absolute triumph in 2019.

With Richebourg and Cros Parantoux as neighbours, you can expect great things from this vineyard. Amelie has five separate plots across half a hectare. The site is so steep and inaccessible that no tractors can reach it, and all work is done by horse or hand. The 2019 delivers a concentration and persistence commensurate with its fine position: lavish red fruit, tight acidity, and powerful but velvet-like tannins.

Rossignol-Trapet owns a very fine two parcels of this formidable grand cru. The vines were mostly planted in the 1950s, with a small section of young vines planted in 2000, and another small section planted way back in 1919. It has magnificent structure, with a voluminous length. It remains subtle and restrained on the nose, but builds in power, and has a persistent finish of dark fruits and mineral spice.