2016 Le Montgruguet Extra-Brut, R. Pouillon & Fils
All Pinot Noir, from a chalk-based vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Äy., that’s a neighbour to the legendary Clos des Goisses. Here, above that famed vineyard, all the soil has eroded to leave just a bed of chalk, and this comes from two micro-parcels there. Stunningly elegant, with rose petal and fresh red apples, and then an almost blackcurrant bass note. This is a wonderful, complex, long Champagne.