Spring Clean Day Two

The red 2017 Escalada do Bibei is a little riper than the red from the Sil and, at 13.5% alcohol, it's also riper than the previous vintage and comes through as juicy and chewy, with abundant, slightly dusty tannins and a dry finish.

From 85 year old vines that come from a small 1 hectare vineyard at altitude on complex soils of quartzite, slate and clay. Primarily Garnacha, there is some Macabeo that has been field blended in the vineyard. Blood orange, raspberries combined with sweet and savoury spice. The tannins a chalky and extremely well knit.

Bodegas Frontonio is an exciting project in Aragón that focuses on old vines, high altitude plots and regenerative viticulture. This red is a blend of Garnacha, Garnacha Peluda, Mazuela (Carignan) and a small percentage of Macabeo that is planted at 600 metres altitude and to 50 year old+ vines. The wine demonstrates incredible balance and freshness with bright red berry fruits and wild flower perfume. The tannins are fine grained and beautifully integrated into the wine's silky core.

At just over 1 hectares, this old vineyard high altitude plot is planted on slate soils and dry farmed. The whole bunch winemaking adopted gives the wine a floral lift with wild strawberries and red berries as well as cranberries and layers of complexity offered with garrigue herbal notes. The tannins are so fine with a hint of ripeness giving a nod to the wine's origins.

Planted at 700 metres in a parcel named Barrandijos in the village of Alpartir on primarily limestone and slate soils. Juicy red cherry fruits combine with wild strawberries, rosemary and thyme notes. Fine grained tannins are supported with a silky palate and bright core.

Enrico fell in love with this wine during the harvest. It’s so fresh and pure, with exceptionally fine, silky, saline tannins, and remarkable length. There’s complexity too: citrus fruit and red berries, and then a hint of seaspray. Wonderful, and balanced on the finish.

This vineyard, that shares the estate’s name, has marne and clay at the top, and then a little sand lower down. So there are 2 soils in the same cru. It’s savoury and pure, and there’s a density and hints of smoke on the finish. This is such a charming Barbaresco: an unbelievable bargain.

The Nervo comes from Serravalian soils, and shows the high-toned fruit, citrus lift, and minerality that you'd expect from such origins. In 2018 it's a real stunner: not to be missed.

A lovely wine from the vineyard surrounding the estate, this is some of the best value that you'll find in Piedmont. Delicate but not overly, the finish here is stunning, with so much energy and poise. Delicious, and approachable younger than some.

4ha in the higher part of the cru. More floral, with a lovely fruit character. More sandy soil, south facing, and first to ripen. There’s almost an amphitheatre here that creates a microclimate. The fruit is slightly darker. It’s almost opulent on the nose, but there’s such energy and vibrancy on the palate. This feels like a step up, with lovely salinity and depth.

From Tortonian soils, as found in Barolo and La Morra, this is for those who like a slightly silkier, richer style of Nebbiolo. Notes of tar and tobacco on the finish, and there's exotic spice, too. Beautifully complex, and very long.

Bottled in July 2020. Beautiful pale colour. Lovely nose, with impressive depth and purity. This has powdery tannins, slightly dark fruit, with excellent tannic structure and purity. Very finely judged, and lots of energy here. Really lovely, classically styled, and so delicious already. With a year or two in the bottle it will be even better.

There’s such a delicate, floral notes, while on the palate there’s notes of blood orange, and other fresh citrus. Hints of anis, orange pith, and salinity all give a phenolic bitterness to the wine, which has you reaching for another glass.

From Albesani, San Cristofono, Messoirano, Gallina. Very soft and silky, nice depth and purity here, and good perfume. It’s very nicely lifted and simple, but nice cool Neive style. Excellent length, from a great vintage.

From a historic vineyard for Dolcetto, but now lots of people have made it as a Barbaresco. Very pure and fine, juicy, lovely soft fruit: Italo’s father bought it in 1930, and he would go and pick grapes to eat. South, steep, windy, ideal for Dolcetto. Very pure this, lovely energy and good tannins. This is excellent.

Really nice fruit, almost citrus and red berries. Good concentration, nice hint of reduction, and there’s lots of tannic structure here. This is very finely judged and good length, Slightly herbal in character, quite mineral on the finish.

Selection of grapes, of barrels - quantity can change from year to year. Quite balsamic in character, really nice energy, this have coiled energy on the palate. Very nice texture, this is quite backward, but with time it will be outstanding. From a truly great vintage, don’t miss this.

Slightly closed today, but there’s impressive power and intensity here. So driven and intense, lots of tannic structure, very vertical in style, more mineral and powerful. This has incredible potential: there’s a coolness and definition here, with lovely length on the finish.

Bramble fruits, plum and black cherry fruits dominate the nose, with rosemary, thyme and leather, black olive and tobacco notes adding layers of complexity. The tannins are firm and pronounced, yet integrate brilliantly with the wine’s generous core. A rich wine that has plenty of energy.

Aged for longer than the Classico in larger barrels for 12 months, this wine is wrapped in savoury spice and leather notes. Bramble fruits take to the forefront, as well as cranberry and sour cherry combining with liquorice and tapenade notes. The tannins are powdery and present, but superbly integrated. This is Aglicanico at its best.

Produced from a family estate in the heart of the Basque town of Getaria, Spain this wine is wonderfully zingy and fresh. The nose is full of lemon verbena, green apple and white pepper spice. There is a touch of spritz on the palate and the acidity is crisp and refreshing. The core has hints of white peach, white blossom and a salinity that offers a sense of place to this very easy to drink dry white wine.

This charming barrel-aged pinot from Stodden in the tiny Ahr district on the Rhine opens with cherry blossom, sandalwood and dried herbs. There is real fruit intensity of red and black cherry on the palate, hints of cocoa, with a silky texture and a focused, refreshing finish.

This is a brilliant introduction to the estate, from a selection of vineyards in Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, Dernau and Rech. Cherry fruit and some spice, and then a long and mineral finish. Just such a delicious Pinot Noir, with excellent potential.

Planted in the early 1980s, Alexander Stodden has cared for this vineyard since 2001. From Greywacke soils, with some clay, this is a spectacular wine from the first Ahr vintage since their devastating 2021 flood. It’s bright and cherry fruited with plenty of cedar spice, and herbal nuances. Stodden is one of the leading lights of German winemaking, and this is a great-valueGrand Cru wine that firmly cements the estate’s place as the country’s premier producer of red wine.

This wine is comparable in quality to the Grosse Gewächs level Spätburgunder from this estate. Expect the spiciness of Krauterberg, a breadth and creaminess of Sonnenberg and a minerality and complexity that you would associate with Herrenberg and Mönchberg. This wine has a delicious red berry perfume that is reminiscent of some of the best Pinot noir in Germany and beyond. Wild strawberries, jasmine tea and spice are the main charcteristics that shine in this wine. The tannins are tight knit and there is great tension on the core thanks to the crisp acidity and silky palate. The wine has an innate quality that you can enjoy now or will develop and age for many years to come.

From the oldest vines on the estate (alte reben means old vines), this is a wine that wows with its intensity, power and structure. Notes of thyme and a pure core of blue and red fruit are encased in wonderfully refined tannins. And it’s the length that really marks this wine out as special: it’s detailed, pure, and incredibly long. Spectacular.

From the vineyard above the winery, and a real insider’s pick. South facing slate soils craft a dark and brooding Pinot Noir, but one that retains brilliant dancing acidity. This is made from the same side as the GG Herrenberg, and shows much of the same character: it’s a baby grand cru.

Expect bright, wild berry fruits from Pegel 735 with lots of energy and a very quaffable wine indeed. Rescued by H.O Spanier is more smoky in style with a signature bacon fat character from Stodden's wines. The wine is more brooding in profile with a zesty acid profile. Alexander Die Grossen is the Grand Cru wine that has an attractive perfume and presents jasmine tea and wild strawberry notes that continue for a long time on the palate.

From extremely rocky terraces, this is mineral style of Pinot Noir that opens with a lift of wild herbs, violets, and warm earth. Linear on the palate the cherry fruit is accented with notes of pepper and cocoa. Very focused on the finish, this is a very detailed and precise wine.

From the remarkable Herrenberg with a soil of weathered-slate, greywacke this is a powerful and muscular iteration this vintage. Ripe cherry and hedgerow fruit, this maintains real precision on the palate with finely etched tannins, and aromas of sandalwood, cocoa, and nutmeg. The finish is so long and detailed, this is a wine that will age effortlessly.

From the oldest vines on the estate (alte reben means old vines), this is a wine that wows with its intensity, power and structure. Notes of thyme and a pure core of blue and red fruit are encased in wonderfully refined tannins. And it’s the length that really marks this wine out as special: it’s detailed, pure, and incredibly long. Spectacular.

Planted in the early 1980s, Alexander Stodden has cared for this vineyard since 2001. From Greywacke soils, with some clay, this is a powerful and spectacularly long wine. Notes of dark berries and some spice, and then a mineral finish. Bravo.

This charming barrel-aged pinot from Stodden in the tiny Ahr district on the Rhine opens with a little pepper, sandalwood and grilled herbs. On the palate there is real fruit intensity of red and black cherry, hints of cocoa, with a silky texture and a focused, refreshing finish.

Planted in the early 1980s, Alexander Stodden has cared for this vineyard since 2001. From Greywacke soils, with some clay, this is a powerful and spectacularly long wine. Notes of dark berries and some spice, and then a mineral finish. Bravo.

This 2018 is showing great purity of red cherry and berry fruit, supported by liquorice and clove spice. Hints of blood orange and a stony minerality add complexity, combined with the wine's chalky tannins and vibrant acidity.

The 2020 vintage is bright and alluring with great juiciness and suppleness. Red berry perfume dominates the aroma profile, with sweet spice and wild flowers evident on the palate. There is a silkiness to the core that makes this wine very quaffable.

Translated as 'little rascal' in local dialect, this 100% Sangiovese IGT spends 15 months in barrique prior to bottling that gives the wine an additional weight and spice. Bramble fruits and red cherries are supported by rose, liquorice and leather. The tannins are powdery and well integrated and this wine is a real delight to drink now whilst waiting for the Brunello to come around.

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is one of the best examples you’ll find from this vintage. The nose is orange blossom infused, with lots of morello cherry, and then a real core of slightly herbal fruit. The tannins are firm but mineral, and have you reaching for another glass, while the finish is long and perfumed. A stunning Brunello, with a long life ahead.

A perennial Lay & Wheeler favourite, quality of the 2019 Birba is incredibly high. Baked earth, slightly smoky black fruit, and plenty of floral notes make this a very intriguing and enjoyable wine. From the same pedigree as La Gerla’s storied Brunellos, the 2019 Birba is approachable in its youth and should continue to excite for years to come. With 15 months ageing in oak barrels, the wine has taken on additional texture and spice.

Lovely delicacy on the nose. Feel a touch of oak, but it’s nicely spiced and plenty of juicy cherry fruit. There’s plenty of focus and a lovely density to the fruit. Lots of potential and density. Lovely drive here, and very saline on the finish. There’s a beautifully clean finish here, such a drinkable wine.

The 2021 Rosso di Montalcino from La Gerla opens with an immediate lift of dried cherry blossom, grilled herbs, and ripe cherry fruit. Offering plenty of hedgerow fruit on the front of the palate the tannins have a refreshing, sinewy feel and a touch of spice and dried red berry fruit linger on the finish.

A wine that is intensely concentrated with cranberries, red berries and star anise. Tannins are structured, with an attractive sweetness to them. The core has great purity and salinity as well as juiciness and depth.

La Pieve is a single-vineyard in Castelnuovo dell'Abate, planted in 1997, originally blended until the quality was deemed worthy of a single vineyard bottling. Black cherry, liquorice and balsamic notes with layers of sweet and savoury spice. This wine encompasses power and finesse.

Perfumed and elegant, blood orange, sea spray and flowers. Amazing balance of fruit and minerality. So long, fine and finessed, with a touch of peach on the finish. This is a wonderful Sangiovese, so elegant and refined with amazing length. Bravo.

More power, spice and balsamic, impressive length, power of tannins and excellent mineral length. Like the density here - silky and mouthfilling, without being overblown.

The 2019 Rosso from La Gerla is a juicy, fragrant Sangiovese from a brilliant estate. Notes of orange peel and wild flowers, and there's a chalky, savoury texture, too. Delicious.

2014 was a cooler vintage in Tuscany, but don’t let that put you off. This is all about gorgeous aromatics: wild herbs, citrus, and a core of pure red fruit. It’s a delicious Sangiovese, that would pass for a Brunello at many times the price.

Bright red berry, hints of purple fruits with a wild flower perfume combined with clove and pepper spice. The acidity is energetic and the palate is deliciously smooth with fine grained tannins. The finish is mineral and the wine possesses great purity.

Broader than the Ribolla Gialla, this washes over the palate with notes of lemon pith and orange blossom. This 2020 is remarkably characterful; Marco & Sandra Sara always get the most of their Friulano, planted on famed ponca soils.

This was picked early, to ensure that a Federspiel could be made. It’s cool on the nose, with notes of lemon sherbet, and then grapefruit and plenty of freshness. There’s outstanding minerality, and plenty of precision on the finish. This lingers. Lovely.

The 2022 Riesling Zier is particularly cool on the nose, with notes of lemon sherbet and grapefruit. There’s plenty of freshness to be found here, and it would be hard to find a better summer wine for the table, but it’s got the legs to age if you can resist drinking it.

The 2022 Grüner Veltliner Treu is taut, elegant, and effortless to drink. There’s some of Grüner’s signature white pepper and celery notes on the nose, while on the palate the wine shows loads of phenolic freshness, with lots of intense, creamy fruit that belies its status as a village level wine. We had to check (several times) that we hadn’t mistaken this for a single vineyard cuvée, and this is the best value wine from the estate, if not the entire Wachau Valley.

This is the largest production of the estate, from two plots at the top of the hill, Postaler and Gaisberg, and then one from the bottom of the hill. It balances the richness and power of the bottom of the hill with the freshness of the top. This is so precise with lovely weight, and there’s salinity, a slightly oily texture, and an almost sweet and sour character. There’s lots of spice on the long finish.

From the bottom of the Kollmitz hill, Spitaler is a single vineyard, and this cuvée comes from just the old vines here, which were planted in 1962. This is so energetic with dark spice and an earthy character. This has so much phenolic freshness, with lots of intense, creamy fruit. Voluminous in the mouth, it all comes back together on the finish.

Floral and delicate on the nose, there’s notes of lemon sherbet and a hint of tarragon on the palate. There's so much energy: this is mouth tingling and very long. An impressive wine for the price.

The grapes come from a vineyard in Burgstadt, 1km from the winery. White grapefruit, jasmine and honey blossom explode from the glass and the acidity is zesty and refreshing. Very easy to drink, yet the wine isn't simple and has a lot of expression.

Klingenberg is one of the western villages of Franken and is made up of grapes coming from the Grand Cru Schlossberg vineyard. The vineyard is one of their warmest sites and as aresult the wine is spicy and juicy in its profile. As well as purple fruit, expect ripe red plum and cherries. Tannins are chalky and extremely well integrated into the wine's juicy and rich core. Very long length.

This is a benchmark Riesling from Sebastian, and shows why his whites should be mentioned in the same breath as his world-class reds. Dry and mineral, with salinity that shines through on the palate, there’s a layered character here that keeps you reaching for more. There’s maybe even a blackcurrant note on the long and floral finish. This is so complex, and so impressive.

Sebastian may be best known for his Pinot Noirs, but this is a spectacular Chardonnay. Apple fruit and lots of complexity, with some spice and a mineral finish. Delicious.

From the brilliant 2021 Riesling vintage, this is a taut, textured white from Sebastian Fürst. There’s notes of lime blossom and plenty of floral complexity, and a long, fine, chiselled finish.

A wine that is fermented and aged in premium Stockinger barrels, with 17 months on lees to give the palate more weight and texture. Attractive reduction and flinty on the nose with white pepper and white blossom adding layers of complexity. The acidity is crisp and energetic and balanced perfectly with the creaminess on the finish.

From a single vineyard Grand Cru (Grosse Lage) site that is due south and is made up of sandstone and loam. One of the standout wines from Sebastian's range, this is a riesling that expresses white peach, lemon and white florals. The core is tightly wound, bone dry and displaying a pithy grip on the finish that helps provide structure.

While Sebastian Fürst is best known for his Pinot Noirs, don't overlook this brilliant Chardonnay from the limestone soils of the village of Astheim, far from the estate's cellar in Burgstadt. This is incredibly Burgundian, with wonderfully expressive notes of hazelnut and peach, and lots of salinity. A real delight.

This is Fürst's village level wine with the grapes coming from 3 vineyard sites, including 2 Grosses Gewächs sites and an Erste Lage vineyard that are in a cool location. The red berry perfume is seductive and the palate is silky with very fine grained tannins and a zesty acidty. There is an attractive violet perfume on the finish.

From 25 year old plantings in the Astheim vineyard, the yields are extremely low producing very concentrated grapes and wine. There are yellow fruit and citrus notes at the forefront, yet the wine's quality comes through on the finish with crushed stones and saltiness.

Close to Centgrafenberg, this single vineyard wine is often described by Sebastian as 'the little brother'. An interesting nose of red berries and blood orange with subtle liquorice and pepper spice. Tannins are fine grained and the palate is wonderfully silky.

Sebastian may be best known for his Pinot Noirs, but this is a spectacular Chardonnay. Apple fruit and lots of complexity, with some spice and a mineral finish. Delicious.

The 2020 Centgrafenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs shows remarkable poise, with notes of greengage and some more exotic fruit, and then stunning spice alongside. There’s incredible length here, and flavours that continue to unfurl. Sebastien can make stunning Grand Cru Rieslings, too.

A tightly coiled wine at this stage, is shimmers in the glass with notes of peach, fresh apricot and white grapefruit pith. Very saline and linear through the palate this is wine with a long life ahead.

A really silky feel to the wine which opens with violets and red blossom. The palate is finely etched with hedgerow berries and sour cherry. A stoney minerality runs through the wine with a fine flow of fruit all the way to the finish.

Close to Centgrafenberg, this single vineyard wine is often described by Sebastian as 'the little brother'. An interesting nose of red berries and blood orange with subtle liquorice and pepper spice. Tannins are fine grained and the palate is wonderfully silky.

Sebastien’s Chardonnays get better and better every year. This is from the limestone soils of the village of Astheim, far from the estate's cellar in Burgstadt. It’s pure and focussed, but with just a little fat on the bones. Lovely.