Roussillon

This barrel fermented Grenache Gris from a brilliant estate in Roussillon delivers a level of precision and elegance one wouldn't normally associate with this wild southwest corner of the French coast. Coume del Mas’s wines exemplify the terrific quality of still dry wines emerging from a region previously associated with sweet, fortified ones. Perfumed with almonds and an exotic touch from some salty reduction, its well-judged oak gives weight and balance, and rounds out this silky, delicious white.

This brilliant red blend, which combines Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Carignan (from 100 year old vines no less) is a real cut above. It comes from enterprising Roussillon estate in a region more often associated with sweet and fortified wines (Banyuls lies a stone's throw away). This red is rich and gourmand, with creamy tannins and a smooth length. However, it remains impressively understated. There is no effortful embellishment. It's simply the result of beautifully handled extraction and elevage techniques which deliver a delicious red with the structure and body you'd expect, but none of the rustic edges you'd fear. Coume del Mas’s wines exemplify the terrific quality of still dry wines now emerging from this region.

Sommelier-turned-winemaker Hervé Bizeul has earned kudos for his career change, from both somms and vignerons alike. He makes this superb cuvée from a parcel of very old vines (50-100 years) he bought in a forgotten corner of the Roussillon in the late 1990s. The vineyard had been abandoned, but over the past two decades has been brought back to life. The wine is a field blend of Grenache and local curiosity Lladoner Pelut, along with Carignan and Syrah grown on a limestone slope. The 2018 shows dark spice and black fruits, with dried herbs and a hint of salt. The structural tannins on the palate give it both richness and energy. It has impressive body, but there’s nothing heavy in its stature, lifted by just a hint of pepper running through the fruit.