Champagne Chartogne-Taillet

Montagne de Reims

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This 12 hectare domaine is based in Merfy, just north-west of Reims. The young Alexandre Chartogne took over the family domaine in 2006 having trained at Selosse, whose influence is seen in the way he works his vineyards. No pesticides or herbicides are used, and ploughing is done by horse. Specialising in single vineyard Champagnes, Alexandre produces eight cuvées. Antonio Galloni says his "readers will find very few growers with a deeper love of the land and all it has to say than Alexandre Chartogne."

2020 Les Orizeaux, Champagne Chartogne-Taillet
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White | Sparkling

This parcel of Pinot Noir vines sits just above Alexandre's Les Barres vineyard. It has been a longstanding favourite among the family. The soil here is an unusual mix of sandy topsoil and chalky limestone bedrock, giving the wine both a plump volume and a taut refinement. Good ageing potential.

Ready: 2025 - 2037

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Benoît Lahaye

Montagne de Reims

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This small, energetic, family-run biodynamic domaine of just 4.8 hectares makes exciting wines in the spectacularly well-named village of Bouzy, as well as in Ambonnay. They converted to biodynamic viticulture in the early 2000s, and their low yields and wonderful maturity produce wines with exceptional concentration and balance. Oak ageing adds to their complexity. They carry out malolactic fermentation and disgorge without the addition of dosage.

N/V Grand Cru, Brut Nature, Benoît Lahaye (Base 2020, disgorged December 2023)
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Dry | White | Sparkling | 12%

90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay. Just 4.8 hectares in the spectacularly well-named village of Bouzy, as well as in Ambonnay. They converted to biodynamic viticulture in the early 2000s, and their low yields and wonderful maturity produce wines with exceptional concentration and balance. Oak ageing adds to their complexity. They carry out malolactic fermentation and disgorge without the addition of dosage. This comes from Grand Cru parcels of wines with an average age of 30 years. The blend contains 55% wines from the 2014 vintage and reserve wine from the 2013 vintage and earlier. It spent two and a half years ageing in bottle before disgorgement.

Drink to: 2035

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Bertrand-Delespierre

Montagne de Reims

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This is a small Montagne de Reims estate on the up. Recent improvements brought about by the newest generation are being felt in the vibrant and pretty wines they make. Their great value for money will not go unnoticed.

2015 L’âme de 2015, 1er Cru, Bertrand-Delespierre (Disgorged November 2023) Dry | White | Sparkling | 12%

This comes from the heart of the Montagne de Reims, where the family domaine is. It's equal parts Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, sourced from various Premier  Cru villages (including Chamery, Ecueil, and Ville-Dommange). It's good value for a premier cru.

Ready: 2025 - 2035

Huré Frères

Vallée de la Marne

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Brothers François and Pierre Huré have brought a wealth of experience gained from winemaking stints all over the world, from Burgundy to New Zealand, to their family domaine in the village of Ludes on the Montagne de Reims. The domaine picked up its 'Frères' in the previous generation, when three brothers ran the show. Family collaboration, hard work, and dedication across the generations has ensured the success of this 10 hectare domaine, whose wines are discreet and elegant, sometimes a little shy at first, but show a profound depth of flavour as they open up in the glass.

N/V Invitation Brut, Huré Frères (2019 Base Vintage) Dry | White | Sparkling | 12%

Brothers François and Pierre Huré bring their considerable international experience to bear here. It's their flagship wine, and a blend of the three classic varieties. The sum total is a masterclass in creamy, tasty, long and inviting Champagne with impeccable balance.

Ready: 2025 - 2035

Lilbert-Fils

Côte des Blancs

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Lilbert is a tiny estate, just 3.5 hectares, and their graceful Cramant wines - one of the prized Grand Cru villages of the Côte des Blancs - are highly sought-after by connoisseurs. The wines tend to have a slightly lower pressure than is commonly found in Champagne, and as a result have a soft mousse which marries beautifully with the sea breeze, citrus, tightly wound character of the Chardonnay grown on the chalky soils of the Côte des Blancs.

N/V Cramant Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, Lilbert-Fils (2021 Base Vintage) Dry | White | Sparkling | 12%

This non-vintage grand cru is a blend of 50% 2021 and 50% reserve wine. It has a sea air, briny freshness, and is so quintessentially chalky Blanc de Blancs on the nose. The palate has a soft mousse (it is slightly lower pressure than mainstream Champagnes) and a salty, fresh length with an agile weight. It is discreet and reserved on first opening, but its reticent refrain opens up with some coaxing. One for the purists.

Ready: 2025 - 2033

Jacques Lassaigne

Côte des Blancs

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Emmanuel Lassaigne is one of Champagne's most exciting growers. He is hotly tipped by critic William Kelley for his 'powerful and vinous but also racy and electric' style of wines. He owns just 3.5 hectares of old vine Chardonnay in the unsung village of Montgueux in the Aube, and his wines have done much to put this region on the map. In 2002 he had just two customers, so to have gone from there to now being recognised as one of Champagne's greats is no mean feat. He neither fines nor filters, and uses very minimal sulphur dioxide.

2017 Le Grain de Beauté, Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature, Jacques Lassaigne (Disgorged March 2024)
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Dry | White | Sparkling

This comes from a single plot called Les Paluets, where old vines thrive in the chalky soils. Fermentation in oak barrels gives the wine a fullness and depth

Ready: 2025 - 2035

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2010 Millésime, Blanc de Blancs, Jacques Lassaigne (Late Disgorgement March 2024)
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Dry | White | Sparkling

This comes from Emmanuel's top three vineyards: Les Paluets (40%), Le Cotet (40%) and La Grande Côte (20%). Vinification in stainless steel preserves the pristine character of the fruit, and long ageing before disgorgement adds muscular depth.

Ready: 2025 - 2035

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N/V Rosé d`Emmanuel(le), Brut Nature, Jacques Lassaigne (Base 2019, disgorged March 2023)
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Dry | White | Sparkling | 12%

A rare rosé from Emmanuel Lassaigne. A lighthearted and delicious approach.

Ready: 2025 - 2030

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Emmanuel Brochet

Montagne de Reims

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This is a tiny 2.5 hectare estate just south-west of Reims. Emmanuel's first bottling was in 2002, and since then he has built up an enthusiastic following. Certified organic, the grapes are always picked with at least 10% potential alcohol as Emmanuel never chaptalizes, believing the process to dampen the aromatics of the wines. In 2000 he invested in a small vertical basket press, about half the size of a normal one. His wines are hard to find, thanks to the tiny production, but well worth it when you do.

N/V Rosé de Saignée, Extra Brut, Emmanuel Brochet (2020 Base, disgorged December 2022) Rosé | Sparkling | 12%

This Pinot Noir Rosé comes from a single parcel: La Motelle. This tiny production wine is made by macerating the berries for 24 hours before drawing the pale pink juice off to ferment and mature in oak barrels. It retains the crisp, fresh delicacy of the grape variety, with the fruit-forward approach of a classical rosé. Utterly charming and decidedly rare.

Ready: 2025 - 2030

Dhondt-Grellet

Côte des Blancs

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Dhondt-Grellet can seemingly do no wrong these days. Everything they produce is delicious. It's always been a reliable name in the Côte des Blancs, but in the past few years has emerged as one of the coolest kids on the block. The arrival of brother and sister Adrien and Alice at their parent's domaine has certainly made an impact. These wines make you sit up and pay attention.

N/V Les Terres Fines Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs, Dhondt-Grellet (Base Vintage 2020) (Disgorged Nov 2023) Dry | White | Sparkling | 12%

This Premier Cru is found in the village of Cuis. A good third of it comes from a perpetual reseve dating back to 1986, when the domaine was first created bu Adrien and Alice's parents. The vines in this plot are extremly old, and the Chardonnay they produce is world-class.

Ready: 2025 - 2035

Adrien Renoir

Montagne de Reims

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Adrien has recently taken over the family's 6 hectare estate in Verzy from his father, and has set his sights on conversion to biodynamics. His first few releases show great promise. He is focusing on single site, single variety wines - a big change from the wines made by his father. It will be exciting to see where this domaine goes.

N/V Le Cepage, Verzy Grand Cru, Adrien Renoir (2021 Base, Disgorged February 2024) Dry | White | Still | 12%

This Blanc de Noirs ('the' variety) tells you a lot about the ambitions and direction of this young domaine. It is concentrated and tense, with linear definition.

Ready: 2025 - 2032
N/V Les Montants, Verzy Grand Cru, Adrien Renoir (2020 Base, disgorged June 2024) Dry | White | Still | 12%

This is one of the few wines in Adrien's line up made from 100% Chardonnay. It comes from one of his oldest parcels, planted in the early 1960s by massal-selection. It is a wine that speaks of its components: the Chardonnay grapes and the chalky limestone soils it grows in. This is pithy and driven.

Ready: 2025 - 2035
2020 Les Epinettes, Verzy Grand Cru, Adrien Renoir (Disgorged June 2024) Dry | White | Still | 12.5%

100% Pinot Noir from a single site. It shows the clarity of vision of this young winemaker, drawing out the particular character of this grape grown in this place.

Ready: 2025 - 2035

Mouzon Leroux

Montagne de Reims

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This family domaine can trace its roots back to 1776, but it is under current incumbant, Sébastien, that it has stepped out of the shadows. He started the ball rolling on conversion to biodynamics when he took over in 2008. Precise work in the vineyard is the name of the game here, and the efforts clearly pay off in the wines.

N/V L'Ascendant Solera, Verzy Grand Cru, Mouzon Leroux (2019 Base, disgorged January 2024) Dry | White | Sparkling | 12.5%

One of the first things Sébastien did after taking over the estate was start a solera in demi-muids, in 2010. He draws 50% off the solera each year, and renews with new wines. This is a complex, mineral wine with depth and character.

Ready: 2025 - 2032
N/V L'Incandescent Rosé de Saignée, Verzy Grand Cru, Mouzon Leroux (2019 Base, disgorged October 2023) Dry | Rosé | Sparkling | 12%

A rosé made from macerating the grapes briefly before the pale juice is drawn off and fermented.

Ready: 2025 - 2032
2017 L'Ineffable, Verzy Grand Cru, Mouzon Leroux (Disgorged March 2023) Dry | White | Sparkling | 12%

The domaine says of this wine "Ineffable: something that cannot be described or expressed because of its nature, strength or beauty.” Make of that what you will, but best still, try the wine and see for yourself.

Ready: 2025 - 2032
2017 L'Angélique, Verzy Grand Cru, Mouzon Leroux (Disgorged March 2023) Dry | White | Sparkling | 12%

As the name suggest, pure and light. This is a refined expression of Chardonnay.

Ready: 2025 - 2032
2017 L'Opiniâtre, Verzy Grand Cru, Mouzon Leroux (Disgorged December 2022) Dry | White | Sparkling | 12%

This 100% Chardonnay is a selection of the best base wines vinified without sulphur. Austere, but with future potential.

Ready: 2025 - 2035

Cazé Thibaut

Vallée de la Marne

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Fabien is a tenth generation winemaker. With plenty of savoir faire to draw up, he has added his own detailed and energetic direction to this estate, which under him now makes some fantastically interesting wines.

N/V Crayère, Cazé-Thibaut (2021 Base, disgorged January 2024) Dry | White | Still

A good value all-rounder of a Champagne, and a great window onto the new style at Cazé Thibaut. It's a blend of Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, with just a dash of Pinot Noir.

Ready: 2025 - 2032
2019 Jossias, Cazé-Thibaut (Disgorged March 2024) Dry | White | Still | 12.5%

Pinot Noir grown on a steep south-east facing hillside: this encapsulates the new energy of this domaine with Fabien at the helm. The conversion from conventional farming to a more natural approach has taken years to achieve, but his efforts are paying off. The quality is clear in the wines he is releasing today.

Ready: 2025 - 2032
2018 Millésime, Extra Brut, Cazé-Thibaut (Disgorged January 2024) Dry | White | Still

This nicely encapsulates the pretty, gentle style of the 2018 vintage. It's made from 100% Pinot Meunier.

Ready: 2025 - 2032