Easter Cellar Raids - Burgundy

This vineyard borders Pommard, and has produced a wine with a fruity, vibrant pallet of cranberry and redcurrant flavours in 2019. In cooler years it can be a little austere, but in 2019, it is a winner, with such plush and charming fruit.

This is a balanced and refined Savigny, with a long, plummy, spicy finish. It has 20% whole bunch, helping draw out the tannins in a more gentle expression, which works well here. Perfumed with plum, red cherry and rose petal, with a delicious freshness. Fantastic.

Taken from plots in Comblanchien, this has fast become one of our favourite bargain reds. Fresh and silky, and surprisingly long for a wine of this price.

One of the lesser known Nuits premiers crus, this vineyard is shared with Domaine Robert Chevillon, just below Aux Thorey, on the Vosne side of the appellation. Its clay-rich soils have yielded a big-shouldered, powerful Nuits, with a complex and surprisingly silky palate with an ample, pleasing finish.

Vignes Franches lies right in the middle of the Beaune Premiers Crus, bordering Clos des Mouches among several others. The third vintage for this cuvée, it has attractive cherry fruit aromas with an interesting herbal note. There is an elegance and depth to the crunchy, cherry fruit on the palate and a very fine and long saline finish.

This gourmand, full-bodied and elegant wine is one of the sweet spots of the Comte Armand stable. As ever, it is a blend of two vineyards in Auxey: Les Bréterins and Les Duresses. Bréterins is steep, well-drained, with very limestone soils contributing savoury elegance; Duresses is clay-based and builds power and body in the wine. It has the savoury structure for good ageing potential, though it is still fragrant, silky and inviting in its youth.

Aloxe-Corton, which hugs the hill of Corton, may not be the most famous village in the Côte d’Or, overshadowed both metaphorically and literally by the grands crus, but in the hands of winemakers like Etienne the results can be impressive - and good value. This is spicy and dark-fruited on the nose, with a juicy palate that abounds with summer fruits and a voluminous, structured finish.

Jean-Claude’s Côte de Brouilly comes from a 70 year old parcel grown on the famous pierre bleue soils of Mont Brouilly, that he shares with winemaker and another Lay & Wheeler favourite Guy Breton. Aged in old foudres from the Cote de Beaune and using 80% whole bunch, this cuvee displays savoury aromas of thyme and cracked pepper. The palate abounds with dark juicy fruit and ripe, structured tannins and a vibrant length. This has the structure to age extremely well.

Like Les Clousots, this is a blend of two sites in Meursault rather than a single lieu-dit. It is a combination of Les Casses Têtes and Les Murgers de Monthélie. This cuvée has been bottled since 1996, and is a cornerstone of the Javillier range. It is always the straightest and more driven of the range. In 2021, this expresses a wonderful honeysuckle, floral and fresh stone fruit bouquet and there is a full and vibrant expression on the impressive finish. As ever, elegant and refined. Leave for a year or two before diving in.

Jean-Marc makes some of the best Chassagne Rouge around. With old vines (as old as 70 years old) planted on the clay soil pockets from 5 different parcels around the village, he has produced a great example again in 2021. This old vine cuvée is perfumed with rich, red-fruit and spice, and has a pleasing sour cherry freshness on the palate.

“Bousselots” means “little bumps”, but this premier cru’s clay-rich soils make for a rounded and approachable Nuits-Saint-Georges. Complex and generous, with plenty of cool fruit coming from that clay in the soil.

The Nuits Vieilles Vignes has temporarily lost its Aux Barrières component, replaced this year by the very well-situated Les Longecourts, which is just below Les St-Georges. A heady nose of griotte cherry, with excellent concentration and a deft balance.The wine feels so beautifully smooth, with a lovely deep core of sweet fruit. Classic Burgundy through and through.

It is well worth following Olivier’s reds, particularly in recent vintages. 2020 is another superb example of Clos des Hâtes following the outstanding 2019. The vineyard had previously been owned by M. Duvault-Blochet, former owner of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Today, high density planting and organic farming mean low yields, which does a great service to the fruit - red berries with a smoky graphite scent lingering over them. Mineral and defined.

A celebrated premier cru up the slope in Nuits. This is elegant and lifted, with Nuits minerality and plenty of crunchy dark fruit. Long and savoury: Nuits intensity with Vosne elegance.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). This has beautiful tension and energy, it comes as little surprise this spot has been a favourite for winegrowers through the centuries.

Floral with a great energy on the nose. The energy follows through to the palate, with a lively core of acidity running through this wine. There is great depth to the fruit and a crunchy grip to the tannins which should see this wine age with grace.

Guy buys these grapes from a friend in the La Garonne climat. There’s an attractive floral note on the nose and a wonderful fresh, finesse to the fruit. The finish is long and saline leaving you reaching for another sip.

A negociant wine, this has a lovely tannic structure, alongside the generosity of the vintage.

This parcel sits just under one of Nuits-St-Georges’ most celebrated premiers crus, Les Vaucrains. It has an agile, elegant, and pretty structure, more refined than the straight village cuvée.

For many, this is the greatest site in Volnay. Marc-Olivier is lucky to have two parcels here. The ‘young vines’ are a mere 50 years old, and the old vines around 80. Their concentration and natural complexity are honed through the use of some whole bunch in this cuvée. It is a precise and exquisite expression, whose delicate power should not be underestimated. Ethereal.

Les Epenotes was the first site to be awarded premier cru status in Beaune. This parcel of between 65 and 80 years old, was planted by Claudie’s grandfather. Claudie comments that this parcel is the first to be harvested, which they always do themselves before their team arrives! The 2021 is packed full of spicy, red and even black fruit aromas. This wine has fantastic energy, the purity and depth of the fruit leaving a lasting impression on the palate. Very fine.

A gorgeous garnet colour. Delicate aromas of soft summer fruit, strawberry, cherry and a subtle floral note combine. The palate is full of finesse and balance with fine-grained tannins leading to a long, persistent finish.

Sitting below Les Arvelets, this 0.4 hectare parcel was planted by Claudie’s great-grandfather. The plot has to be farmed by horse as the layer of soil is so thin here. This 2018 has a rich and opulent nose of flora and cerises. The depth and density of the fruit is backed up by fine and chalky tannins, that have just enough grip and bite. Delicious now, but with plenty of potential to improve with further time in bottle.

This has all the constituent parts to soar after sevearl years of slumber in the bottle. It's deep, powerful and intense, showing its breeding just below the Clos du Roi in Corton. It has nice, silky tannins with good depth and energy, and reasonable freshness. It just needs some time to come together.

Tuvilains is a lovely vineyard on the Pommard side of the town. Scented with rhubarb and raspberries, with a lot of structure on the palate. There is 20% whole bunch here, and some support from new oak. In 2021, it is spicy, red fruited and light bodied, with a refreshing crunchiness to the tannins.

Champs Claude comes from 4 different parcels of vines in Santenay, with an average age of 60 years. This is classic Pinot Noir - full of subtle, red fruit on the nose and fresh, balanced with a great energy on the palate. Brilliant value.

This comes from 0.7 hectares of premiers crus across the village: La Riotte, Les Sorbès, and Le Village. The new style of vinification has drawn out the finest qualities of the fruit here: tight red berries, but with a fine silky texture to the tannins, and an elegant thread of acidity.

In his third vintage here, Jacques Devauge has made a Clos de Lambrays for the ages. It has depth, dimension, texture, light and shade. Its many layers build in the palate. Jacques has achieved this nuanced character through vinifying each parcel separately. This is the work of a master crafter.

From vines planted in 1927, between Echézeaux and Clos de Vougeot, this might be the best placed village vineyard on the Côte de Nuits. And this shows in the quality here. Intense and structured, with beautiful energy: outstanding.

This vineyard bordering Pommard did once produce wines with some robust, muscular tannins. But now that they have reached 70 years old, the father and son team note how much the tannins have begun to soften, and become distinctly finer in recent years. It still has a vibrant grippiness in 2020, but the floral aromatics, and the fine-grained nature of the tannins give it elegance.

From high up the slope, this is a cool, refined and elegant Gevrey. The fruit is juicy and precise, with a fine texture. And a good, fresh finish.

This is a steep site with very high limestone soils. It always produces a nervous, tight wine that can do with a year or two in bottle before the floral notes can blossom.

This single vineyard is located on the north side of Nuits, near Vosne-Romanée. It has a hint of that silkiness, but in its youth, the Nuits structure and stature dominate. This is a great example of the bold and muscular Nuits: fully bodied and full flavoured, with 2019’s brilliant freshness.

Les Suchots is one of Vosne’s greatest vineyards, situated on the line of Grands Crus. Vines planted in 1937. Power and volume here, but not lacking focus on the palate. It’s a brilliant example of a brilliant vineyard.

This has the seductive nose of sweet red berry and cherry fruit and floral lift we love in Volnay. The site’s generous top soil makes for a wine of appealing charm, marking it out as one of the earliest drinking of the Buffet Volnay premiers crus. The fruit is completely destemmed, and the wine has a gorgeous, luscious, sappy texture on the palate. Cellar for a few years, then don’t hold back.

“Bousselots” means “little bumps”, but this premier cru’s clay-rich soils make for a rounded and approachable Nuits-Saint-Georges. The 2017 is juicy and saline, with silky tannins, and really fine acidity on the finish.

This plot of just over half a hectare is planted with 60+ year old vines. There is a floral character, and so much energy and silky tannins behind it. Good balance and drive, and nice density to the flavour.

From the heart of the Vosne side of Nuits, this wine is always beautifully expressive in its youth, a clear marker of the vintage. Really elegant and round, with lovely juicy fruit and fine texture.