Easter Cellar Raids - Burgundy

This vineyard borders Pommard, and has produced a wine with a fruity, vibrant pallet of cranberry and redcurrant flavours in 2019. In cooler years it can be a little austere, but in 2019, it is a winner, with such plush and charming fruit.

This is a balanced and refined Savigny, with a long, plummy, spicy finish. It has 20% whole bunch, helping draw out the tannins in a more gentle expression, which works well here. Perfumed with plum, red cherry and rose petal, with a delicious freshness. Fantastic.

One of the lesser known Nuits premiers crus, this vineyard is shared with Domaine Robert Chevillon, just below Aux Thorey, on the Vosne side of the appellation. Its clay-rich soils have yielded a big-shouldered, powerful Nuits, with a complex and surprisingly silky palate with an ample, pleasing finish.

Taken from plots in Comblanchien, this has fast become one of our favourite bargain reds. Fresh and silky, and surprisingly long for a wine of this price.

Cool fruit on this outstanding, and often forgotten vineyard. There’s spice and energy, and silky tannins, too. A delicious, and well-defined Gevrey.

Vignes Franches lies right in the middle of the Beaune Premiers Crus, bordering Clos des Mouches among several others. The third vintage for this cuvée, it has attractive cherry fruit aromas with an interesting herbal note. There is an elegance and depth to the crunchy, cherry fruit on the palate and a very fine and long saline finish.

Like Les Clousots, this is a blend of two sites in Meursault rather than a single lieu-dit. It is a combination of Les Casses Têtes and Les Murgers de Monthélie. This cuvée has been bottled since 1996, and is a cornerstone of the Javillier range. It is always the straightest and more driven of the range. In 2021, this expresses a wonderful honeysuckle, floral and fresh stone fruit bouquet and there is a full and vibrant expression on the impressive finish. As ever, elegant and refined. Leave for a year or two before diving in.

This gourmand, full-bodied and elegant wine is one of the sweet spots of the Comte Armand stable. As ever, it is a blend of two vineyards in Auxey: Les Bréterins and Les Duresses. Bréterins is steep, well-drained, with very limestone soils contributing savoury elegance; Duresses is clay-based and builds power and body in the wine. It has the savoury structure for good ageing potential, though it is still fragrant, silky and inviting in its youth.

Aloxe-Corton, which hugs the hill of Corton, may not be the most famous village in the Côte d’Or, overshadowed both metaphorically and literally by the grands crus, but in the hands of winemakers like Etienne the results can be impressive - and good value. This is spicy and dark-fruited on the nose, with a juicy palate that abounds with summer fruits and a voluminous, structured finish.

“Bousselots” means “little bumps”, but this premier cru’s clay-rich soils make for a rounded and approachable Nuits-Saint-Georges. Complex and generous, with plenty of cool fruit coming from that clay in the soil.

Jean-Claude’s Côte de Brouilly comes from a 70 year old parcel grown on the famous pierre bleue soils of Mont Brouilly, that he shares with winemaker and another Lay & Wheeler favourite Guy Breton. Aged in old foudres from the Cote de Beaune and using 80% whole bunch, this cuvee displays savoury aromas of thyme and cracked pepper. The palate abounds with dark juicy fruit and ripe, structured tannins and a vibrant length. This has the structure to age extremely well.

Jean-Marc makes some of the best Chassagne Rouge around. With old vines (as old as 70 years old) planted on the clay soil pockets from 5 different parcels around the village, he has produced a great example again in 2021. This old vine cuvée is perfumed with rich, red-fruit and spice, and has a pleasing sour cherry freshness on the palate.

This plot of just over half a hectare is planted with 60+ year old vines. There is a floral character, and so much energy and silky tannins behind it. Good balance and drive, and nice density to the flavour.

A celebrated premier cru up the slope in Nuits. This is elegant and lifted, with Nuits minerality and plenty of crunchy dark fruit. Long and savoury: Nuits intensity with Vosne elegance.

Agile old vines planted in 1964 produce a wine of surprising structure from this site. The concentration of fruit, the frame of tannins, and the long drive on the back-palate are perhaps more in line with the traditional image of Nuits-St-Georges than Axelle’s Vallerots cuvées. This quintessential Nuits cuvée has superb length, with some welcome Nuits-St-Georges structure giving it power and presence.

From vines planted in 1927, between Echézeaux and Clos de Vougeot, this might be the best placed village vineyard on the Côte de Nuits. And this shows in the quality here. Intense and structured, with beautiful energy: outstanding.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). This has beautiful tension and energy, it comes as little surprise this spot has been a favourite for winegrowers through the centuries.

The Nuits Vieilles Vignes has temporarily lost its Aux Barrières component, replaced this year by the very well-situated Les Longecourts, which is just below Les St-Georges. A heady nose of griotte cherry, with excellent concentration and a deft balance.The wine feels so beautifully smooth, with a lovely deep core of sweet fruit. Classic Burgundy through and through.

It is well worth following Olivier’s reds, particularly in recent vintages. 2020 is another superb example of Clos des Hâtes following the outstanding 2019. The vineyard had previously been owned by M. Duvault-Blochet, former owner of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Today, high density planting and organic farming mean low yields, which does a great service to the fruit - red berries with a smoky graphite scent lingering over them. Mineral and defined.

Les Suchots is one of Vosne’s greatest vineyards, situated on the line of Grands Crus. Vines planted in 1937. Power and volume here, but not lacking focus on the palate. It’s a brilliant example of a brilliant vineyard.

Historically known as a village for reds, Chassagne can still be home to some of the Côte de Beaune’s Pinot Noir gems. Here the vines are 100+ years old, Dark fruit and lavender on the nose, it’s very expressive. Really cool fruit, and smoky and earthy, this is one you simply have to try.

This vineyard bordering Pommard did once produce wines with some robust, muscular tannins. But now that they have reached 70 years old, the father and son team note how much the tannins have begun to soften, and become distinctly finer in recent years. It still has a vibrant grippiness in 2020, but the floral aromatics, and the fine-grained nature of the tannins give it elegance.

Floral with a great energy on the nose. The energy follows through to the palate, with a lively core of acidity running through this wine. There is great depth to the fruit and a crunchy grip to the tannins which should see this wine age with grace.