Easter Cellar Raids - Burgundy

This vineyard borders Pommard, and has produced a wine with a fruity, vibrant pallet of cranberry and redcurrant flavours in 2019. In cooler years it can be a little austere, but in 2019, it is a winner, with such plush and charming fruit.

This is a balanced and refined Savigny, with a long, plummy, spicy finish. It has 20% whole bunch, helping draw out the tannins in a more gentle expression, which works well here. Perfumed with plum, red cherry and rose petal, with a delicious freshness. Fantastic.

One of the lesser known Nuits premiers crus, this vineyard is shared with Domaine Robert Chevillon, just below Aux Thorey, on the Vosne side of the appellation. Its clay-rich soils have yielded a big-shouldered, powerful Nuits, with a complex and surprisingly silky palate with an ample, pleasing finish.

Taken from plots in Comblanchien, this has fast become one of our favourite bargain reds. Fresh and silky, and surprisingly long for a wine of this price.

Cool fruit on this outstanding, and often forgotten vineyard. There’s spice and energy, and silky tannins, too. A delicious, and well-defined Gevrey.

Vignes Franches lies right in the middle of the Beaune Premiers Crus, bordering Clos des Mouches among several others. The third vintage for this cuvée, it has attractive cherry fruit aromas with an interesting herbal note. There is an elegance and depth to the crunchy, cherry fruit on the palate and a very fine and long saline finish.

Like Les Clousots, this is a blend of two sites in Meursault rather than a single lieu-dit. It is a combination of Les Casses Têtes and Les Murgers de Monthélie. This cuvée has been bottled since 1996, and is a cornerstone of the Javillier range. It is always the straightest and more driven of the range. In 2021, this expresses a wonderful honeysuckle, floral and fresh stone fruit bouquet and there is a full and vibrant expression on the impressive finish. As ever, elegant and refined. Leave for a year or two before diving in.

This gourmand, full-bodied and elegant wine is one of the sweet spots of the Comte Armand stable. As ever, it is a blend of two vineyards in Auxey: Les Bréterins and Les Duresses. Bréterins is steep, well-drained, with very limestone soils contributing savoury elegance; Duresses is clay-based and builds power and body in the wine. It has the savoury structure for good ageing potential, though it is still fragrant, silky and inviting in its youth.

Aloxe-Corton, which hugs the hill of Corton, may not be the most famous village in the Côte d’Or, overshadowed both metaphorically and literally by the grands crus, but in the hands of winemakers like Etienne the results can be impressive - and good value. This is spicy and dark-fruited on the nose, with a juicy palate that abounds with summer fruits and a voluminous, structured finish.

“Bousselots” means “little bumps”, but this premier cru’s clay-rich soils make for a rounded and approachable Nuits-Saint-Georges. Complex and generous, with plenty of cool fruit coming from that clay in the soil.

Jean-Claude’s Côte de Brouilly comes from a 70 year old parcel grown on the famous pierre bleue soils of Mont Brouilly, that he shares with winemaker and another Lay & Wheeler favourite Guy Breton. Aged in old foudres from the Cote de Beaune and using 80% whole bunch, this cuvee displays savoury aromas of thyme and cracked pepper. The palate abounds with dark juicy fruit and ripe, structured tannins and a vibrant length. This has the structure to age extremely well.

Jean-Marc makes some of the best Chassagne Rouge around. With old vines (as old as 70 years old) planted on the clay soil pockets from 5 different parcels around the village, he has produced a great example again in 2021. This old vine cuvée is perfumed with rich, red-fruit and spice, and has a pleasing sour cherry freshness on the palate.

This plot of just over half a hectare is planted with 60+ year old vines. There is a floral character, and so much energy and silky tannins behind it. Good balance and drive, and nice density to the flavour.

A celebrated premier cru up the slope in Nuits. This is elegant and lifted, with Nuits minerality and plenty of crunchy dark fruit. Long and savoury: Nuits intensity with Vosne elegance.

Agile old vines planted in 1964 produce a wine of surprising structure from this site. The concentration of fruit, the frame of tannins, and the long drive on the back-palate are perhaps more in line with the traditional image of Nuits-St-Georges than Axelle’s Vallerots cuvées. This quintessential Nuits cuvée has superb length, with some welcome Nuits-St-Georges structure giving it power and presence.

From vines planted in 1927, between Echézeaux and Clos de Vougeot, this might be the best placed village vineyard on the Côte de Nuits. And this shows in the quality here. Intense and structured, with beautiful energy: outstanding.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). This has beautiful tension and energy, it comes as little surprise this spot has been a favourite for winegrowers through the centuries.

The Nuits Vieilles Vignes has temporarily lost its Aux Barrières component, replaced this year by the very well-situated Les Longecourts, which is just below Les St-Georges. A heady nose of griotte cherry, with excellent concentration and a deft balance.The wine feels so beautifully smooth, with a lovely deep core of sweet fruit. Classic Burgundy through and through.

It is well worth following Olivier’s reds, particularly in recent vintages. 2020 is another superb example of Clos des Hâtes following the outstanding 2019. The vineyard had previously been owned by M. Duvault-Blochet, former owner of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Today, high density planting and organic farming mean low yields, which does a great service to the fruit - red berries with a smoky graphite scent lingering over them. Mineral and defined.

Les Suchots is one of Vosne’s greatest vineyards, situated on the line of Grands Crus. Vines planted in 1937. Power and volume here, but not lacking focus on the palate. It’s a brilliant example of a brilliant vineyard.

Historically known as a village for reds, Chassagne can still be home to some of the Côte de Beaune’s Pinot Noir gems. Here the vines are 100+ years old, Dark fruit and lavender on the nose, it’s very expressive. Really cool fruit, and smoky and earthy, this is one you simply have to try.

This vineyard bordering Pommard did once produce wines with some robust, muscular tannins. But now that they have reached 70 years old, the father and son team note how much the tannins have begun to soften, and become distinctly finer in recent years. It still has a vibrant grippiness in 2020, but the floral aromatics, and the fine-grained nature of the tannins give it elegance.

Floral with a great energy on the nose. The energy follows through to the palate, with a lively core of acidity running through this wine. There is great depth to the fruit and a crunchy grip to the tannins which should see this wine age with grace.

This parcel sits just under one of Nuits-St-Georges’ most celebrated premiers crus, Les Vaucrains. It has an agile, elegant, and pretty structure, more refined than the straight village cuvée.

This has all the constituent parts to soar after sevearl years of slumber in the bottle. It's deep, powerful and intense, showing its breeding just below the Clos du Roi in Corton. It has nice, silky tannins with good depth and energy, and reasonable freshness. It just needs some time to come together.

From the heart of the Vosne side of Nuits, this wine is always beautifully expressive in its youth, a clear marker of the vintage. Really elegant and round, with lovely juicy fruit and fine texture.

Guy buys these grapes from a friend in the La Garonne climat. There’s an attractive floral note on the nose and a wonderful fresh, finesse to the fruit. The finish is long and saline leaving you reaching for another sip.

A negociant wine, this has a lovely tannic structure, alongside the generosity of the vintage.

This is the flagship wine of the domaine. It comes from 90-year-old vines, and shows a charming combination of energy and unforced concentration, with persistence and a light lift of reduction. This is perfectly balanced with silky tannins and delicious salinity in the finish. This is a wine with so much life, and a great example of the Guy Breton style that has earned him such a following.

For many, this is the greatest site in Volnay. Marc-Olivier is lucky to have two parcels here. The ‘young vines’ are a mere 50 years old, and the old vines around 80. Their concentration and natural complexity are honed through the use of some whole bunch in this cuvée. It is a precise and exquisite expression, whose delicate power should not be underestimated. Ethereal.

As the slope of grand cru Chapelle-Chambertin levels off, it becomes this well placed premier cru. It’s elegant and fresh, stony and driven. There’s impressive freshness, minerality and purity, and the energy in the wine drives it along.

Les Epenotes was the first site to be awarded premier cru status in Beaune. This parcel of between 65 and 80 years old, was planted by Claudie’s grandfather. Claudie comments that this parcel is the first to be harvested, which they always do themselves before their team arrives! The 2021 is packed full of spicy, red and even black fruit aromas. This wine has fantastic energy, the purity and depth of the fruit leaving a lasting impression on the palate. Very fine.

In his third vintage here, Jacques Devauge has made a Clos de Lambrays for the ages. It has depth, dimension, texture, light and shade. Its many layers build in the palate. Jacques has achieved this nuanced character through vinifying each parcel separately. This is the work of a master crafter.

This is a grippy and dramatic Savigny, with a long finish. It has 40% whole bunch, helping draw out the tannins in a more gentle expression, which works well here. Perfumed with dark berries and toasted spice, with cherry stone freshness.

Unlike some Côteaux Bourguignons which are a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, this is 100% Gamay, from a parcel of very old vines the Grivots inherited via the Jayers, one of whom was married to Etienne’s father. When tasting, Etienne mentioned that Henri Jayer made him promise to never, ever rip out these vines. He has since kept his word, and it is now one of the wines that Etienne is most animated about in their whole cellar. It’s a more slender wine than the 2019, and is focused and vibrant with lively red fruits.

This is Guy Breton’s top cuvée, and is given his nickname, P’tit Max, which he has been called since childhood after his father. The wine comes from a parcel of low yielding 130-year-old vines. He says that rather than being bigger or oakier than the rest of his wines (as top cuvées at other addresses can be), it instead has a level of finesse that sets it apart. This 2021 is so refined, with juicy elegance and perfectly formed velvety tannins. There is mineral depth to the fruit, and the wine already tastes delicious at this early stage. Don’t be afraid to cellar this with confidence.

Vaulorent is technically part of Fourchaume, the largest premier cru in Chablis, and is the only premier cru to share the same slope as the grand cru. It has very chalky soil and produces a wine of power and silky tension. The 2021 is so velvety and enticing, you almost don’t feel the power of the wine underneath the texture. Concentrated peach, apricot and a wonderful fresh grapefruit pithiness transcends, with a finish that is complex, long, saline and very fine - super!

This is a top contender for most popular wine on our list, from anywhere in the world. It captures everything we want from a classic Bourgogne Blanc, and its keen price means it sells out every year at en primeur. Most of its fruit is sourced from Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault, and the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune. The 2021 has a waxy lemon intensity on the nose, a great bite of freshness from both acidity and pithy minerality, with just a gentle hint of discreet oak (10-12% new oak this year) supporting in the background. There’s a lovely texture and great energy in this wine. All in all, there’s a lot going on here for a humble Bourgogne. Its following is well deserved.

A gorgeous garnet colour. Delicate aromas of soft summer fruit, strawberry, cherry and a subtle floral note combine. The palate is full of finesse and balance with fine-grained tannins leading to a long, persistent finish.

Sitting below Les Arvelets, this 0.4 hectare parcel was planted by Claudie’s great-grandfather. The plot has to be farmed by horse as the layer of soil is so thin here. This 2018 has a rich and opulent nose of flora and cerises. The depth and density of the fruit is backed up by fine and chalky tannins, that have just enough grip and bite. Delicious now, but with plenty of potential to improve with further time in bottle.

Beautiful clarity, crystalline and voluminous. So much purity here; love the salinity on the finish. There’s also exotic spice, touch of floral, and just such a nice weight in the mouth.

Tuvilains is a lovely vineyard on the Pommard side of the town. Scented with rhubarb and raspberries, with a lot of structure on the palate. There is 30% whole bunch here, and some support from 20% new oak. More peppery and full bodied than the previous vintage. You can feel the heat of the summer a little in the fruit profile, although the fresh acidity keeps the structure cool.

From high up the slope, this is a cool, refined and elegant Gevrey. The fruit is juicy and precise, with a fine texture. And a good, fresh finish.

Charles Ballot is making some of the greatest Chardonnays in Burgundy these days, and his Bourgogne Blanc is an excellent place to get a taste of the style on offer at this address. 80% of the fruit is sourced from his home village of Meursault, with the balance coming from Puligny-Montrachet.

Tuvilains is a lovely vineyard on the Pommard side of the town. Scented with rhubarb and raspberries, with a lot of structure on the palate. There is 20% whole bunch here, and some support from new oak. In 2021, it is spicy, red fruited and light bodied, with a refreshing crunchiness to the tannins.

The origin of the word "Cras" comes from "rocky hillsides", a term often used to describe a vineyard whose soil is made of rubble and pebbly stones. This parcel's soil is gravelly with a high quality red clay that is very typical of Pommard. Pretty cherry and wild raspberry fruit combine with rose petal on the nose. The fruit continues to sing on the palate and is juicy, sappy and generous with a long, mineral finish. This is lovely.

Champs Claude comes from 4 different parcels of vines in Santenay, with an average age of 60 years. This is classic Pinot Noir - full of subtle, red fruit on the nose and fresh, balanced with a great energy on the palate. Brilliant value.

This comes from 0.7 hectares of premiers crus across the village: La Riotte, Les Sorbès, and Le Village. The new style of vinification has drawn out the finest qualities of the fruit here: tight red berries, but with a fine silky texture to the tannins, and an elegant thread of acidity.

Monthélie is a small village just north of Meursault, producing deliciously crunchy red wines. The Lafon example is one of its leading lights. Indeed, the red wines at Lafon have come on a great deal in recent years, and this is one of the most affordable entry points to the domaine. Juicy, crunchy, and elegant Côte de Beaune Pinot at its finest.

Unlike the rest of the Breton range which is grown on granitic soils, this comes from the famous pierre bleue soils of Mont Brouilly. The parcel is actually owned by good friend, and Lay & Wheeler favourite, Jean-Claude Lapalu. J-C looks after the vines during the year, and he and Breton pick the parcel on the same day, with Breton buying half the grapes. The wines the two men make couldn’t be more different in style. This version is lightly scented with ripe strawberries and cinnamon. There’s a little light grip from some fine tannins that are woven through the symphony of sweet red fruits. It is a delicious expression of Beaujolais, one with some gentle body and sweet ripeness, but no heaviness at all.

Nicolas has the oldest vines in this highly-rated premier cru. They were planted in 1904, and Nicolas plans to uproot them within the next year because the old vines have become so low-yielding. The wine has powerful and concentrated tannins, fantastic texture and elegant, floral,plummy aromatics to its fruit.

This has the seductive nose of sweet red berry and cherry fruit and floral lift we love in Volnay. The site’s generous top soil makes for a wine of appealing charm, marking it out as one of the earliest drinking of the Buffet Volnay premiers crus. The fruit is completely destemmed, and the wine has a gorgeous, luscious, sappy texture on the palate. Cellar for a few years, then don’t hold back.

This single vineyard is located on the north side of Nuits, near Vosne-Romanée. It has a hint of that silkiness, but in its youth, the Nuits structure and stature dominate. This is a great example of the bold and muscular Nuits: fully bodied and full flavoured, with 2019’s brilliant freshness.

After many years, premiers crus were finally recognised in Pouilly-Fuissé from the 2020 vintage. Château de Fuissé are delighted and proud that their superb monopole vineyard that sits just next to the historic château has been recognised with this classification. It is a 2.7 hectare vineyard, home to many old vines, some of which were planted as far back as 1929. The youngest vines you’ll find here are actually from 1984. There is real intensity in this wine, with toasty, candied lemon peel notes and a subtle anise lift on the nose. The palate is powerful in its concentration and textural complexity, packed full of peach, nectarine and a smattering of fresh ginger. The finish is mineral, saline and persistent, this wine is built to last! It is no surprise it has been upgraded.

This is not named after the inept detective, but after two parcels in Meursault. It is a blend of the hillside vineyard Les Clous, with a touch of Les Crotots. Les Clous provides the body and drive, with Les Crotots, which sits just next to premier cru Poruzots, definition and zip. It is so floral in 2020, but it is also tight, and will need a year or two to open up. No new oak is used here; this wine is all about pure fruit expression, with a wonderful texture.

Fragile old vines planted in 1964 produce a wine of surprising structure. The concentration of fruit, the frame of tannins, and the long drive on the back-palate are perhaps more in line with the traditional image of Nuits-St-Georges than Axelle’s Vallerots cuvées. It has bursting red currants and a firm blended spice note. This quintessential Nuits cuvée has superb length, and would be elevated further still if served with food.

These are the oldest vines of the domaine, and were planted in 1902. Their concentration and complexity shows on the nose, which is chalky, floral, pretty, and spicy. The wine has so much energy, tightly coiled, and sinewy, with a pomegranate weight and floral power.

From the Vosne side of Nuits, always an impressive cuvée. You really feel the rock in this outstanding village cuvée. Savoury and mineral, there’s a juicy, fruity finish.

“Bousselots” means “little bumps”, but this premier cru’s clay-rich soils make for a rounded and approachable Nuits-Saint-Georges. The 2017 is juicy and saline, with silky tannins, and really fine acidity on the finish.

These vines were planted in 1927, and lie just under Echézeaux and next to Clos de Vougeot and a stone’s throw from Suchots, which all in all is pretty unbelievable positioning for a village parcel. In 2021, 100% whole bunch was used, giving a delicious lift to the fruit. There is great depth and layering to the smoky, plum and damson fruit, topped off with a wonderful blackcurrant drive. The tannins are present but not astringent, giving it a muscular dimension. Very well made indeed.

The Clos des Epeneaux is an impressive vineyard in both size and history, with vines dating back to 1919. It is one of the largest monopole vineyards in Burgundy at 5.23ha, and certainly one of the most celebrated in the region. 2017 has produced a remarkable Epeneaux. The constraints of the small cellar in the centre of the village meant that a large crop had to be carefully juggled between tanks. Some racking off of the juice during the height of fermentation meant winemaker, Paul Zinetti, managed to draw out a delicious core to this 2017, while preserving the aromatic freshness of the vintage. With a few years in bottle, it’s clear something special happened here. You can dispel the old trope that Pommard is muscular and rustic only: this is svelte, fragrant, profound, and intense. It marries density with silky freshness.

A classic example from this cooler region in the hills above the Ladoix-Serrigny in the Côte de Beaune. It is peachy and smooth, quite grapey in style, with lovely roundness and a silky texture.

This vineyard is a monopole of the estate which has been in the hands of the family since 1860. Where the Brûlées is firm and structured, Clos de Réas is more lithe, mineral and supple, with a sophisticated flavour palette of blood oranges, crushed raspberries, ripe damson and fresh rosemary. It is both luxurious and refined.

From the Vosne side of Nuits, bordering the town.This is silky but with plenty of grip and structure. Long: a very good village wine.

From the Vignes Blanches section of the vineyard, noted for its chalky soils, as well as Cruots, bordering Vosne. Impressive richness here. Really impressive purity, and amazing drive through the middle. Love the energy, and the silky finish.

Bruno owns an impressive one hectare of this great vineyard, and makes an intense example. Tightly wound on the nose, there’s a lovely weight to the palate here with exotic spice and ripe dark fruits.

Vines were planted in in Blagny, one of Meursault's highest vineyards, in 1984 and this shows in the focus, energy, and vertical character of this wine. Delicate flowers and lovely citrus precision. Very good indeed.

This Volnay is pale, fragrant, strawberry-scented, and a true success story of the 2021 vintage. It’s a blend of two parcels: the evocatively named Les Famines, whose paucity of soil makes the roots dig deep; and a small dash of a tiny lieu-dit, La Gigotte, which is nestled just beneath Mitans premier cru, and lifts this village wine up a notch. Grapes from both parcels were entirely destemmed, and the wine has a silky, agile, old-school charm that opens up as soon as you pull the cork.

A village Vosne from one of the commune's historic names, who benefit from brilliantly placed vines. They have vines in Les Damaudes and Maizières, at either side of the village, bringing very different characters to the wines.

Serious and brooding. Lovely density, and nice mineral texture. Has those grippy Clos tannins, but they’re refined and well rendered. This is elegant and finessed, but doesn’t lose its Clos Vougeot Character. Very long and fine.

This is undoubtedly one of the greatest premier cru sites in the Côte de Nuits. Clos Frantin are the proud owners of 1.75 hectares.

This is one of the most complete Gevrey village wines you will find: multiple parcels scattered around the village which are vinified in three parts. One part comes from the light stony soil at the bottom of the valley, giving a cool elegance; the second is a cluster of parcels in the middle of the village on clay soil, giving body and structure; the third is a group of parcels below the grands crus, giving a complexity and finesse. The vines are all aged between 45 and 85 years, and the concentration and complexity this wine delivers for the price is hard to beat. It is a serious wine in 2020, with excellent depth of flavour and a distinctly dry, savoury finish.

High on the slope and bordering Vosne, offering elements of the two communes. It’s incredibly mineral, as you’d expect from this poor soil. Limestone and gunflint, with crunchy red fruit and flowers, and loads of energy on the finish.

From the middle of the slope, from vines 45 years old which Brian says act like they’re 75 years old, given how little fruit they yield. 30% whole bunch. Smells so good: expressive, fine, and good delicacy.Floral, slightly peppery and seductive with lovely tannins. There’s a slightly tonic note on the finish, and wonderful length. Very impressive.

Described by Paschal as "excessively fine and elegant", this is a highly attractive wine, with pretty, fragrant fruit coming through on the expressive nose. On the palate, this has a subtle mineral nature and a feminine accent to the soft, berry fruit. The tannins are present, but subtly and finely realised, giving this wine an overwhelming impression of finesse.

This is Guy Breton’s top cuvée, and is given his nickname, P’tit Max, which he has been called since childhood after his father. The wine comes from a parcel of low yielding 130-year-old vines. He says that rather than being bigger or oakier than the rest of his wines (as top cuvées at other addresses can be), it instead has a level of finesse that sets it apart. This 2021 is so refined, with juicy elegance and perfectly formed velvety tannins. There is mineral depth to the fruit, and the wine already tastes delicious at this early stage. Don’t be afraid to cellar this with confidence.

This is a fairly recent addition to Maxime’s portfolio. As with all his wines it shows depth of fruit and suave tannins, with a long finish, tempered by the freshness of the vintage.

The 2021 Monts Luisants, from one of Morey's most celebrated vineyards, is lovely in 2021. Lots of whole bunch spice, and there's a fragrance and purity here, too. Very nicely balanced.

This Volnay is so vibrant and aromatically spiced through with wild strawberry and cherry fruit. It is a blend of two parcels, Les Famines and Les Grands Champs, in the centre of the commune. There is a softer texture to the fruit. This is a finessed and balanced Burgundy with just enough of that sweet, scented fruit extracted to make it both tender and mineral.

Les Hâtes sits in the middle of the village, surrounded by premiers crus on well-draining soil. It is so red-fruited and floral - bursting with grenadine and red currant aromas - that you’d be forgiven for thinking it probably has a high proportion of whole bunch fruit. But, in fact, David says only 3-5% whole bunches went into the tank. The floral character is a natural expression of the site, and makes it a delicious introduction to the village for first-timers.

In Aux Allots we find the domaine’s oldest vines, though how old precisely is unknown. The family bought the vineyard in 1969. It had been planted long before then, but the exact date has been lost to history. The wine has a wild, aromatic, peppery nose, fantastically textured tannins - not too imposing, but offering impressive structure - and a finish of great, great persistence. Wonderful.

Whilst most of the vineyard is terrassed (and goes into the blend bearing that name), a small half hectare section is not, having been planted in 1984. It might be difficult to farm, and very hard work to harvest, but it’s well worth it for the wine it produces. This 2019 hits the Pinot sweet spot. There’s no new oak getting in the way here; it’s just Pinot’s crystalline red fruit and subtle spice (cranberries and a hint of nutmeg) that sing here. It has a long, mineral finish.

One of the best terroirs among Morey’s premiers crus, this comes from 40-50 year old vines. Wild and stony, there are notes of almond kernels and fresh berries. There is such focus here, and a long and savoury finish. Brilliant, and so well priced.

Always one of our favourite wines here, the Bressandes is a masterpiece in 2018. Incredibly dark with cherries and flowers, and a mineral tang here. This is so complex and pure.

Guy buys these grapes from a friend in the La Garonne climat. There’s an attractive floral note on the nose and a wonderful fresh, finesse to the fruit. The finish is long and saline leaving you reaching for another sip.

Blagny sits high up, above the heart of the Meursault commune. This altitude brings a focused freshness to the wines. It has notes of honeydew melon, with a richly mineral seashell note - not unlike Chablis - on the nose. The soil is very white limestone up here, and this makes for a scintillating palate. It feels straighter than the Grands Charrons, in many ways, more like a Puligny in profile than a Meursault.

This is a steep site with very high limestone soils. It always produces a nervous, tight wine that can do with a year or two in bottle before the floral notes can blossom.

Porusot is one of the finest vineyards in Meursault, with an enviable south-east exposure. Its stony soils make taut, age-worthy Chardonnay.

This was a high point to finish on with Nicolas. It was elegant, smoky, savoury, and spicy with such intense density, power and concentration in the fruit. It is full-bodied with a great acidity and voluminous tannins. A cut-above.

This comes from the young vines of the domaine, which are scattered across various parcels around the village of Nantoux. It has a zesty acidity giving it a fresh profile, which is twinned with the ripe berry fruit character. Whole bunch has been upped to 50% in 2020. It has a nice pepperiness, with a sapid length.

This is a blend of two parcels. Just over half (55%) comes from a village parcel, but the other 45% comes from the 1er Cru Clos Rousseau vineyard, which is an extension of the vineyard of the same name in Santenay. It is so bright and energetic, with a crunchy texture and well-handled tannins, giving it bite, but no hard edges. This is vibrant, red-fruited, light-bodied, crisp Pinot Noir. 15% whole bunch fruit gives it a sweet and lifted air.

From high up the Nuits slope, on the Vosne side of the village, this is elegant and silky with incredible perfume and talc-like tannins. A beautiful Premier Cru.

Bruno’s Clos de Bèze is a beautiful expression of the vintage, with fruit complexity and an almost brooding feel given by the superb concentration. A seductively laced palate with generous mouthfeel and a vibrancy and energy on the finish, this great vineyard does it again.

This comes from three parcels of vines all over 50 years old. The soils are a mixture of granite and clay, and the wine is crunchy and fresh, with a juicy raspberry aroma, and succulent length.

Just a little whole bunch is used here, and it works prefectly. The Gamay shows all the structure and sophistication of the Boillots’ Côte d’Or Pinots, but with the juicy, pretty, peppery texture of Beaujolais. It’s got gorgeous, juicy black cherry fruit with hints of wild rose, and fine-grained tannins, thanks to the excellent granitic terroir.

This is the flagship wine of the domaine. It comes from 90-year-old vines, and shows a charming combination of energy and unforced concentration, with persistence and a light lift of reduction. This is perfectly balanced with silky tannins and delicious salinity in the finish. This is a wine with so much life, and a great example of the Guy Breton style that has earned him such a following.

This 70 year old parcel is situated near Jean-Claude’s cellar on granite soil with an east-facing aspect. The cuvée is made using carbonic maceration , and is everything we want from a Beajoulais to drink young. Its fresh, crunchy, juicy fruit has an amazing cherry concentration on the palate leading to a focussed and bright finish, with just a touch of white pepper at the end. Delicious.

This is the flagship wine of the domaine. It comes from 90-year-old vines, and shows a charming combination of energy and unforced concentration, with persistence and a light lift of reduction. At 13.5% it is perfectly balanced. This is a wine with so much life, and a great example of the Guy Breton style that has earned him such a following.

Marcel believes this is his best vineyard. It is a blend of older and younger vines on limestone marl soils and makes a wine with silky ripeness and plenty of freshness. It could easily come from its grander and more expensive neighbour, Pouilly-Fuissé. In 2021 it has an intensely concentrated and juicy stone fruit core which gives the wine delicious grip and bite and a long, lingering finish.

Maurice, William’s father planted some of these vines in 1948. Since then, the domaine has grown its holdings, and it is now the largest owner of Chablis’ greatest site with over 4 hectares. Many of the vines are situated at the top of the hill, in a cool site, where the best soils are found. White flower, citrus fruit and apple and pear blossom aromas combine. On the palate the wine is packed full of white peach, oyster brine, clementine and limestone minerality. Powerful and complex, yet so, so elegant. A true grand cru in every sense.

This is a blend of two parcels in Meursault - the hillside vineyard Les Clous, with a touch of Les Crotots. Les Clous provides the body and drive, with Les Crotots, which sits just next to premier cru Poruzots, definition and zip. It is so concentrated with rich, luscious stone fruit in 2021, but it is also fresh, with a fine line of acidity running right through the palate. No new oak is used here; this wine is all about pure fruit expression, with a wonderful texture.

The 2021 Bourgogne Chardonnay Le Haut des Champs has a well-defined bouquet with nectarine and peach aromas. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite saline in the mouth with a bitter lemon finish. Fine.

This delicious white comes from a 6 hectare plot grown on limestone soils. This is a new cuvée for Lay & Wheeler this year and one we are delighted to introduce. Aromatic with notes of freshly cut green apple on the nose. The palate is beautifully balanced, packed with juicy apple and citrus fruit, a lovely line of fresh acidity and a long, saline finish. Fantastic!

This is one of few prestigious whites of the Côte de Nuits, and comes from one of the estate’s two monopole vineyards. Clos de l’Arlot is the steep, walled, amphitheatre vineyard just next to the cellars. The 2020 shows an intensity of fruit, wrapped around by some gorgeous toasty notes. It is rich, but with zingy freshness. I can’t think of a better Clos de l’Arlot Blanc from any previous vintage.

This vineyard is tucked up at the top of the village on the border with Auxey-Duresses. The cooler hilltop position helps the wine retain a terrific mineral drive. Its 50 year old vines produce concentrated fruit, that when ripened to perfection, as in 2020, make for a fleshy, full, savoury wine with lots of impact.

This is a blend of grapes from Corton-Bressandes and Corton-Chaumes. It always displays an abundance of white fruit aromas, complemented by the little hint of vanilla and spice from the oak.

A blend of Les Casses Têtes with Les Murgers de Monthélie, bottled as a blend since 1996. It is a straighter, more driven expression of Meursault, with a narrow, piercing finish. Of all the Javillier Meursaults, this is the most refined and elegant. Leave for a year or two before diving in.

Blagny sits high up, above the heart of the Meursault commune. This altitude brings a focused freshness to the wines. This 2019 has a wonderfully nutty intensity, with a chalky, white blossom character, and long, citrus finish.

Their Corton Blanc is a blend of grapes from Bressandes and Chaumes. One third in Stockinger barrels. This is long with notes of toast and vanilla, but also wonderful white fruit and soaring floral aromatics. The volume builds. This is outstanding - an affordable Grand Cru.

This is made in the old fashioned method, with 12 hours in a vertical whole bunch press, once the skins have been split open. When we tasted it still hadn’t seen sulphur. Very fresh pears and energetic.

A blend of Les Casses Têtes with Les Murgers de Monthélie, bottled that way since 1996. Floral and fruit, with precision but also richness. Very linear on the long, mouthwatering finish.

Corton Blanc is rarely seen, indeed the de Nicolay family have the only Chardonnay vines planted in the clay-rich Bressandes grand cru, which makes up 90% of the blend here. It’s a weighty, richly textured white, with admirable precision and balance. This is a rare treat you should snap up if you have the chance.

This is another recent addition to the Felettig stable. It comes from the northern sector of the Côte de Nuits, from the commune just north of Gevrey-Chambertin. Its 300m elevation and 20% incline give it freshness and grippy precision.

This is a very special village lieu-dit. It is sandwiched between two grands crus: Charmes-Chambertin and Griotte-Chambertin. Most people who own vines here bottle it separately, as its character is of such high quality, it approaches premier cru complexity. This has Gevrey’s classical sour cherry density, and a sweet hint of dark cherry fruit on the palate. The fruit was entirely destemmed for this cuvée, and the body of the wine is juicy and fresh. Excellent.

This is the only parcel the domaine bottles separately from the other Gevrey village parcels. That is thanks to its quite incredible situation, and the consistency of quality it delivers every year. It is sandwiched just between grands crus Charmes-Chambertin and Griotte-Chambertin. It’s almost unbelievable it’s only a village lieu-dit. The Rossignol-Trapet vines lie right alongside the Joseph Roty Charmes Vieilles Vignes parcel, but the soil is more like Griotte-Chambertin just to the north. There is just a hint of black fruit depth combined with the red fruit freshness, something reminiscent of cassis and cherries. The tannins are well-formed, offering structure and frame with a slight broodiness, but not imposing too heavily on the fruit. Very fine.

This comes from seven parcels around the village, including La Justice, Forneaux, and Clos Prieur Bas. It is so precise and lengthy, with a lively, spicy, cherry red fruit that seems to go far beyond what a village usually delivers. It’s one of Mark’s favourites in the cellar, and we can see why. A small (25%), well-judged amount of whole bunch adds just a hint of lift. This is fantastic in 2021.

The domaine has vines in two plots on either side of Nuits: Les Chariots in the south and Aux Lavières in the north. There is a Chambolle signature woven through the Nuits fruit here; the wine has a nice firm, elegant structure yet remains silky and finessed overall. Great!

Lovely nose of fragrant wild red fruit and rose petal, then velvety and rich with cherry, plum and wild berry fruit flavours. Fresh and complex with lots of depth. Great energy and concentration in the finish.

Les Pruliers, on the south side of Nuits-Saint-Georges, was seriously impacted by the frost, with just one and a half barrels produced in 2021. That’s given an incredible density and concentration, while it remains incredibly balanced. The fruit has a great pinosity, with a fine structure and vivid energy. A highlight.

Packed full of red fruit character, with structured tannins that are typical of Gevrey. Herbal, savoury notes run through on the palate with a long, saline finish. Quite Nebbiolo in character and quite delicious.

If you are looking for good value in Vosne-Romanée, you’re on the right track here. It comes from three well-placed parcels, including Aux Réas which extends on from the premier cru, along with La Colombière, and Au Dessus de la Rivière. A more serious, slightly reductive nose makes way for beautiful spicy, black cherry concentration on the palate, silky tannins and a good, firm length.

Lots of mineral depth here, and there's also plenty of energy on the palate. There's a lovely density here - with notes of wild flowers and also darker frtui.

The Hautes-Côtes de Nuits is proving a popular spot for growers in Vosne who are looking for wines that are a little more forward, accessible, and with vibrant freshness, as is the case in this excellent example.

This parcel actually used to be classified as a village parcel, and winemaker Mark seems particularly fond of it. It is really elegant and refined in 2021, with a hint of Gevrey’s density and spice. There’s a delicious hint of blood orange on the palate giving this a lift, there’s fine grained tannins and a long and pure, fruity finish. It’s one of the best Bourgogne Rouges you’ll find.

Nicolas has the oldest vines in this highly-rated premier cru. They were planted in 1904, and we learned this year that their days are numbered. Nicolas plans to uproot them within two years because the old vines have become so low-yielding (just 16 hl/ha in 2020). The wine has highly concentrated tannins and a particularly perfumed aromatic fruit.

This is a very special village lieu-dit. It is sandwiched between two grands crus: Charmes-Chambertin and Griotte-Chambertin. Most people who own vines here bottle it separately, as its character is of such high quality, it approaches premier cru complexity. This has Gevrey’s classical sour cherry density, and a sweet amplitude of fruit on the palate. The fruit was entirely destemmed for this cuvée, and the body of the wine is juicy and flowing. Outstanding.

In Aux Allots we find the domaine’s oldest vines, though how old precisely is unknown. The family bought the vineyard which sits on the Vosne-Romaéee side of the village in 1969. It had been planted long before then, although the exact date has been lost to history. This wine has an enthralling depth of berry fruit, with a minty lift on the nose, and just a hint of licorice adding a further dimension. Textural and complex, this is an outstanding Nuits-St-Georges.

This is a flagship wine of the domaine, and at two hectares represents around a third of production. It’s an incredibly steep site just above Les Vaucrains which had been abandoned since the phylloxera crisis until Bertrand terraced and planted it in 2001. There is slightly darker, fuller fruit than that found in the 2019, but with the brightness of acidity it feels balanced and very complete, unforced and charming.

Most of the fruit comes from the Côte de Nuits, with the majority from around Nuits itself, with the balance from the Côte de Beaune. 20% whole bunch and no new oak is the perfect combination here to let the fruit sing. It is a fresh and crunchy style of bourgogne, with enough bite to give it a vibrant length. It should drink well from a young age. And it’s an absolute bargain.

This is a flagship wine of the domaine, and at two hectares represents around a third of production. It’s an incredibly steep site just above Les Vaucrains which had been abandoned since the phylloxera crisis until Bertrand terraced and planted it in 2001. The wine is so precise and deliciously long. It feels almost excessively refined for a Nuits-St-Georges, and has little of the village’s typical robust structure. This is a seductive and tender Pinot, and will drink well from early on.

The soil in Les Lavières is high in limestone, and produces a wine with lots of mineral bite, and a floral nose. This is a cuvée where the gentler pressing of the vertical press has given greater elegance and silkiness to the structure.

At the bottom of the slope of grand cru Chapelle-Chambertin.Notes of kirsch, fresh dark cherries, and baked earth. Very rich and intense, there’s just enough freshness to keep it lifted and mouthwatering.

From a plot close to the celebrated Clos de Cortons Faiveley. Corton is a huge success in 2018, with notes of wild berries, a herbal edge, and loads of finesse and length on the finish. Brilliant.

Les Poireaux, Les Crais, and En Sevrey are the three plots in this. This is savoury and pure, with wild berries and loads of texture. Very savoury and restrained, a nice vintage for Morey.

This prized Nuits vineyard borders the sought-after Vosne Malconsorts. Intense and charming, with volume and nervy depth that fills the palate. Very mineral with lots of ripe fruit, too. This shows Vosne spice and Nuits minerality.

Made from very old vine Gamay from the communes of Flagey and Vosne, this cuvée was first made in 2012. Plenty of supple fruit, with real energy on the finish. Delicious.

A cuvée that comes from two vineyards, Les Duresses and Grands Champs. From vines planted just after the war. This is juicy and fresh, but with a bit more intensity and concentration than usual: a really charming premier cru.

This plot of just over half a hectare is planted with 60+ year old vines. Complex with notes of baked earth and violets, and tons of lifted dark fruit. This is beautifully balanced, and very long indeed.

A Lay & Wheeler favourite for years, from up to 90 year old vines, half of which are next to Lavaux in the combe, and another fifteen parcels. Fragrant, long, and very complex.

The wine for which the domaine is perhaps best known (this, or their Richebourg!). Deep and dark and herbal, with almost a linseed oil character. Such purity here, but certainly feel the tannins and intensity. Lovely berry fruit, very long, energetic and dense. Amplitude but comes back together on the finish.

Incredibly charming in 2018, this has juicy fruits, with cherries and also a hint of wild herbs. Very finely balanced, with a juiciness, and a very long finish.

0.63ha running from bottom to top on the south side. Nice juicy fruit. Silky tannins, with real finesse and balance. Very sensuous and appealing, with surprising weight to the palate, and nice length.

This premier cru lies at the bottom of the hill, but in the hands of a great producer like Tawse it shines, for a bargain price. Nice fruit, lovely energy, and nice density, fine structure, and depth of fruit purity. And there’s beautiful elegance here, on the finish.

From a plot close to the celebrated Clos de Cortons Faiveley. Love the dark fruit, energy and purity. So much tension here, really silky and fine on the palate. A benchmark Corton.

This prized Nuits vineyard borders the sought-after Vosne Malconsorts, and in 2017 it’s stunning. Nice freshness but serious power of fruit here too: this is so well balanced, with a touch of opulence. A wine for those in the know.

From 50 year old vines. Nice nose, slightly herby and garrigue, ⅔ whole bunch. There’s depth here, so much volume, too. Also violets, with really nice finesse, and mineral, too with great energy. Very fine and complex.

Vinified without sulphur, using as little on bottling as possible. This is a remarkably pure wine, which shows the very best of Pinot Noir. Juicy, long and textured.

Historically known as a village for reds, Chassagne can still be home to some of the Côte de Beaune’s Pinot Noir gems. This has lovely juicy dark fruit and cooked raspberry. There’s great depth and complexity with some real tension.