French Wines

Philipponnat hold back a proportion of each vintage from their outstanding single vineyard Clos des Goisses, and age it sur lattes in their cellars. For those who love the complexity and vinous power of old Champagnes, there is nothing better.

This non-vintage grand cru is a blend of 50% 2020 and 50% reserve wine. It has a sea air, briny freshness, and is so quintessentially chalky blanc de blancs on the nose. The palate has a soft mousse (it is slightly lower pressure than mainstream Champagnes) and a salty, fresh length with an agile weight. It is discreet and reserved on first opening, but its reticent refrain opens up with some coaxing. One for the purists.

Instantanée is a single vintage Champagne that is made every year in order to take a “photo” of that year, the domaine explains. This 2017 is citrus-edged, with a firm and bracing backbone of acidity. It's a blend of roughly equal parts Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier from across Ludes, Villedommange, Rilly-La-Montagne and Brouillet. It spent 6 years ageing on lees before disgorgement, and the wine has taken on weight and structure in that time.

Pol Roger's classic N/V blend has a huge following, and with good reason. It is one of the most finely balanced and delicious grandes marques on the market. It's a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. It is one of the most complex and rewarding non-vintage Champagnes you'll find, with creamy citrus notes on the nose, and a crisp orchard fruit palate with savoury minerality on the long, elegant finish. This is based on the excellent 2017 vintage.

In the late 1970s, then cellarmaster Daniel Thibault worked alongside the Heidsieck family to create Champagne Charlie as a tribute to their ancestor. He created five editions of the wine - 1979, 1981, 1982, 1983 and 1985. This recent revival by current cellarmaster Cyril Brun pays hommage to these. It is comprised of 80% reserve wines (the highest proportion being 20% from the 2016 vintage), with select components aged on lees for up to 25 years. It is a blend of 52% percent Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir, and was cellared in 2017.

Pol Roger's latest vintage release is an absolute joy. It's vibrant and refreshing, with a creamy, smooth texture, and Pol's signature generosity of depth. It is a classic blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from grand and premier crus sites across the Montagne de Reims and the Côte des Blancs. It's got the delicious biscuity notes of ageing on lees, with the crunch of orchard fruits on the palate. It's already in the prime of its drinking, with the poise and structure for cellaring.

This 2015 from Pol Roger has a beautifully precise, delicate nose with floral notes taking the lead and orchard notes underneath. It is a classic blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay from grands and premiers crus sites. The palate is fresh and agile, with just a hint of brioche, biscuity richness, which should emerge further with bottle age. Overall it is one of the prettiest, most subtle, and enticing releases from Pol Roger in recent years.

Pol Roger do not make any n/v rosé. Instead they make a small amount only in what they consider the greatest years. This 2009 is a blend of Grands and Premier Crus in the Montagne de Reims and the Côte des Blancs.The rosé colour is achieved through blending in a small amount of Pinot Noir red wine from Ambonnay.

The 2015 Brut Blanc de Blancs offers up a more full-bodied, vinous style than the more taut and tightly wound 2013. On the nose, aromas of white pepper, dried herbs and crisp golden orchard fruit intermingle with subtle biscuity notes. There’s an energetic, fleshy fruit core, lively acidity and a precise, chalky finish. Impressive.

The 2014 Grande Année Rosé is a truly wonderful wine. It comes from grapes sourced across 19 Grands Crus. It is measured, even a little shy on first opening, but with some air the delicious notes of strawberry and cherry begin to open up. The palate is a tour de force: rich and textural with a powerful energy and a mineral-driven finish. Exceptional.

Cristal 2012, with over a decade in bottle, is really beginning to show its mettle. It has been fantastically reviewed, picking up a staggering 98 points from Antonio Galloni. It has set the tone for the new direction of this Roederer wine, and has remained a high point in this much-loved cuvée’s story. This is one of the world's most celebrated prestige cuvée Champagnes. 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, from biodynamically farmed vineyards.

The 2012 Blanches Voies comes from a single parcel of sixty year-old vines, from Laurent's most expressive parcel of Chardonnay. It's an astonishing fizz, full of verve and energy, and remarkable saline precision. The finish lasts for minutes, with just a hint of brioche and fresh hazelnut coming through. Outstanding.

This is one of the fine wine world’s rarest and most precious gems. It comes from two grand cru parcels of old Pinot Noir vines planted on their own root stocks. The two walled clos, Chaudes Terres and Clos St Jacques, are both in Aÿ, near the Bollinger cellars. They are a reminder of a by-gone era, where vines were planted in a method known as layering, as had been done pre-phylloxera. Low yields of exceptional quality fruit produce one of Champagne’s most incredible wines that few are lucky to taste. Just 2193 bottles of the 2012 Vieilles Vignes Françaises were produced and numbered.

The 2011 Comtes de Champagne is a thrilling, scintillating edition of this much-loved fizz. It's tense and rippling with energy on the nose, with wild flowers and just a hint of tarragon. The palate is vibrant and grippy, with so much finesse and focus. This is astonishingly pure and long, a wine that wows with its understated concentration and minerality. Bravo.

This is a wonderful blend of Dom Pérignon’s nutty, rich, savoury style, with the freshness and drive of a high-acid year. Ripe peaches and a light tropical note on the nose are married with a generous and firm palate, with a vibrant, taut finish.

This combines, in dazzling complexity, the flamboyance of the Dom Pérignon style with the taut austerity of the 2008 vintage, culminating in an impeccably balanced and fascinating rosé. Vibrant, textured, long and sophisticated. This will go down as one of the great DP Rosé releases. 5 g/l dosage.

Recently disgorged 2008 vintage Bollinger is as good in real life as it is on paper. 2008 is a giant amongst recent vintages: the wines are long lived, powerful, and deep. The Bollinger original release was an instant hit. It’s a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, and the R.D has seen extended ageing, with the magnums finally being disgorged in November 2022.This extra ageing has added weight and depth to this already extraordinary wine, that opens with a nutty, savoury aroma. The palate is compact at first, with incredible energy, before unfurling in a magnificent wave of baked orchard fruit, hazelnut toast and sensational freshness.

Recently disgorged 2008 vintage Bollinger is as good in real life as it is on paper. 2008 is a giant amongst recent vintages: the wines are long lived, powerful, and deep. The Bollinger original release was an instant hit. It’s a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, and the R.D has seen extended ageing, finally disgorged in October 2022.This extra ageing has added weight and depth to this already extraordinary wine, that opens with a nutty, savoury aroma. The palate is compact at first, with incredible energy, before unfurling in a magnificent wave of baked orchard fruit, hazelnut toast and sensational freshness.

This blanc de noirs is Billecart at its best. It comes from a single plot planted with Pinot Noir in 1964. It is produced in tiny quantities, and goes toe-to-toe with the likes of Bollinger's Vielles Vignes Françaises and Krug's Clos d'Ambonnay.

Salon is one of the most celebrated and sought-after Champagnes in the fine wine world. It comes from a single cru: Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru; a single grape variety: Chardonnay; and a single year.

Cuvée 745 is concentrated and powerful, while retaining great freshness and acidity. More open and immediately accessible versus the tighter 744, this new cuvée continues Jacquesson’s groundbreaking series in expressive, dynamic style. In 2017 most of the grapes came from Ay, Dizy, Hautvillers (66%) and the rest from Avize and Oiry (34%).

Billecart Salmon is a Champagne house that built its reputation on rosé, but it would be a mistake to overlook their delicious blanc de blancs, made from 100% Chardonnay. This cuvée is only made in tiny volumes, and offers tension and freshness alongside Billecart's signature silky smoothness.

Brut Premier is dead, long live Collection! An idea that started in 2002, deep in the Roederer cellars, has finally been realised by master winemaker Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon. He wanted to make a multi-vintage wine that captured the essence of the Roederer style, and differentiated the nuance of the vintages in the blend. In 2012 he started a perpetual reserve, with young vine fruit from the biodynamic parcels usually dedicated to the production of Cristal. Collection 242 is the inaugural release of this idea. 56% of the blend comes from the 2017 harvest, 10% from reserve wines (spanning 2009 to 2016), and 34% from the perpetual reserve. The house dates back to 1776, and the name pays homage to the 242nd harvest since then. It is fresh and incisive, with the chalkiness and salinity you might find in young Cristal. Its arrival marks the end of the line of the Brut Premier cuvée. It’s only a small step up in price, but from tasting it multiple times we are convinced it is a huge leap up in quality and style.

The heart of this multi-vintage blend from Aÿ is the 2017 vintage, which is combined with one third perpetual reserve, dating back to 1990. The wine is a gorgeous golden colour, with a chalky, vinous precision on the nose, leading to a luxurious, ample palate with great depth of flavour. This is a very serious Champagne: sumptuous and detailed, and the best recent iteration we’ve tasted.

The heart of this multi-vintage blend from Aÿ is the 2017 vintage, which is combined with one third perpetual reserve, dating back to 1990. The wine is a gorgeous golden colour, with a chalky, vinous precision on the nose, leading to a luxurious, ample palate with great depth of flavour. This is a very serious Champagne: sumptuous and detailed, and the best recent iteration we’ve tasted.

Memoire is one of the most exciting wines in the Huré cellar, drawing on the perpetual reserve started in 1982. You can feel the depth of the older wine herein this vinous and structured wine that is crying out to be drunk with food. Its deep, plush flavour get better every time you return to the glass. Brothers François and Pierre Huré have brought a wealth of experience gained from winemaking stints all over the world, from Burgundy to New Zealand, to their family domaine in the village of Ludes on the Montagne de Reims. The domaine picked up its 'Frères' in the previous generation, when three brothers ran the show. Family collaboration, hard work, and dedication across the generations has ensured the success of this 10 hectare domaine, whose wines are discreet and elegant, sometimes a little shy at first, but show a profound depth of flavour as they open up in the glass.

The 746 is the latest cuvée in Jacquesson’s ground-breaking series, which celebrates their dynamic style. It is their flagship non-vintage blend, with this iteration based around the generous and delicious 2018 vintage. It’s concentrated and powerful, with a real swagger and flare about it. Its ripe acidity and biscuity richness combined with a taut 2g/l dosage gives it a refreshing and incisive length. It is a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the finest villages of the Montagne de Reims (Aÿ, Hautvillers and Dizy) and the Côte des Blancs (Avize and Oiry). This wine shows the sheer quality of fruit integral to the Jacquesson style.

Brut Premier is dead, long live Collection! This is the third major release in the series. It was born of an idea that came to master winemaker Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon deep in the Roederer cellars, in 2002. He wanted to make a multi-vintage wine that captured the essence of the Roederer style, and differentiated the nuance of the vintages in the blend. In 2012 he started a perpetual reserve, with young vine fruit from the biodynamic parcels usually dedicated to the production of Cristal. Collection 244 is based on the remarkable 2019 vintage (54% of the blend), with the remainder made up of the perpetual reserve. It's a blend of 41% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Noir, and 26% Meunier. The house dates back to 1776, and the name pays homage to the 244thharvest since then. It is fresh and incisive, with the chalkiness and salinity you might find in young Cristal. The new Collections mark the end of the line of the Brut Premier cuvée. It’s only a small step up in price, but from tasting it multiple times we are convinced it is a huge leap up in quality and style.

This is one of the best known and most distinctive of all non-vintage champagnes. Bollinger uses a high proportion of Pinot Noir in the blend (60%), and much of the reserve wine is aged in magnums - something the house insists adds to the complexity and depth of the wine. The Bollinger penchant for oak is on stylish display in this cuvée, and the warm brioche notes wrap around a deep orchard fruit core making for one of the most satisfying glasses of Champagne. 85% of the blend is drawn from vineyards classified grand cru – the style is deliciously weighted and seamlessly balanced.

One of the wine world’s enduring greats, Krug’s multi-vintage rosé is sumptuous, complex, textured and deep. Its pale pinky-orange hue and fine, persistent mousse are the most immediately alluring characters. Beyond these, the luxurious combination of toasty autolytic flavours and vibrant, plush red fruit concentration with spiced gingerbread notes make this a hugely impressive and indulgent wine. The 27ème Édition is a blend of nine vintages, with the majority drawn from the 2015 vintage.

Triennes is a long-time favourite, always reliably delicious, and just the ticket for the summer. It is a lovely red fruit-lead, thirst-quenching rosé from this ever-popular southern venture from two of Burgundy’s greatest domaines: DRC and Dujac. The de Villaine and Seysses families invested here many years ago, seeing the potential in the region to make great value and delicious, easy-drinking rosé. Perfect for summer drinking.

Richard Bray is an ex-sommelier, winemaker, author, and now wine merchant - a true all-rounder in the wine industry. Cathartic Wines is Richard's own project, and with a few vintages under-way, has picked up momentum. Neuks n’Crannies (the name a nod to a much-loved region of Scotland, Neuk of Fife) is a delicious, small-batch white made in the cellars of Mas Cristine in the Roussillon. It has existed for just three vintages, with this vibrant and sea-spray scented 2021 as the final edition in the tryptic. It’s made from a blend of Grenache Gris grown by Mas Christine, blended with some Marsanne grown by vanguard Collioure producer, Coum del Mas. The addition of Marsanne, incidentally, sets it apart from the two previous vintages which included Roussanne. This 2021 has a playful phenolic grip, and incisive salty length, and is propelled along by the vintage’s natural freshness. It’s a great final bow for this interesting and creative white.

Trousseau is a pale in colour, light in tannin, and fresh in flavour red from Jura. This is aged in amphorae, which brings texture and purity to the fruit. It's got bone fide natural wine credentials, and would not be out of place in the coolest wine bar, and chilled down a little and servd at home, you couldn't find a better aperitif red. Crunchy and juicy.

Les Fripons is, like Les Filles, a wine made from 100% Bergeron - the local Savoie name for Roussanne. It is more linear and lean than Les Filles, but no less delicious. Gilles Berlioz is a passionate practicioner of organic farming and a benchmark producer in the Savoie.

Tempier has stood as a preeminent domaine of Provence for decades, putting Bandol on the fine wine map. Under the direction of Daniel Ravier, the wines are getting better than ever. This classic blend of Mourvèdre, with Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault captures the wild garrigue scrub of the Provencal coast. It shows the sultry character of Mourvèdre with finesse and balance.

This is one of the Côte d'Azur’s most distinctive wines, with its recognisable bottle shape and pale onion skin pink. The domaine shot to fame after Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt invested in it, alongside the expert winemaking family, the Perrins, of Château de Beaucastel fame. The 2020 is lightly scented with sweet strawberry and bonbon notes, with an apricot flavoured and peachy palate, and a balanced, creamy finish.

Unlike the Savagnin barrels that go into the production of vin jaune and Château-Chalon, these barrels are topped up regularly, protecting the wine from developing the characteristic oxidative notes of those wines. This is fresh and vibrant with so much complexity and saline minerality. It's aged for two years in barrel before bottling, giving it time to build layer upon layer of complexity.

This cuvée is an homage to Stéphane's father, André (dédé/DD) who began making this wine. It is a blend of Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard which is made in a "glouglou" style without sulphur for easy drinking. Its long, gentle fermentation and ageing in hundred-year-old foudres preserve the natural freshness of the varieties. It is bottled with a little more CO2 than most wines to compensate for the lack of added sulphur dioxide. This provides a prickle of freshness, and a quick carafing might be advised. This quintessentially Jurassic red is wonderful for early, easy drinking.

Tempier has stood as a preeminent domaine of Provence for decades, putting Bandol on the fine wine map. Under the direction of Daniel Ravier, the wines are getting better than ever. This classic blend of Mourvèdre, with Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault captures the wild garrigue scrub of the Provencal coast. It shows the sultry character of Mourvèdre with finesse and balance.

Domaine Tempier sit at the pinacle of the small but highly-prized Bandol appellation in Provence, famous for its long-lived Mourvèdre wines. The exposed parcel of La Tourtine enjoys the sunshine all day, but is freshened by the stiff Mistral winds. The vines look out over the Med - it's the perfect spot for Mourvèdre, which makes up at least 85% of the blend.

This is made from a high quality Beaujolais village parcel, but after the wine was rejected in 2012 for being ‘too pale’, Jean-Claude decided to change its classification to the much freer Vin de France, valuing the innate character of the wine over the AOC’s regulations. It remains one of the most interesting in his range. The palate is so light on its feet, with a lifted red berry energy. 100% whole bunch fruit gives it a cool, bright structure with lacy tannins. No sulphur dioxide is added at all here. Equally well suited as a chilled aperitif red or a superb lighter style to finish an evening off: this is natural winemaking at its finest, least-faddy best.

Chapoutier is an undisputed master of Syrah in the Northern Rhone, and this is their excellent blend from the deep south-west of the Côtes du Roussillon. It is juicy and structured, with the warmth of Grenache singing through. Grenache 65%, Syrah 35%.

Though it remains under the radar in comparison to neighbours and mentors, Grange de Pères, winemaker Frédéric Pourtalié has quietly established Montcalmès as one of the most nuanced and high quality producers of the Languedoc. Syrah and Grenache from limestone and Mourvèdre grown on galets roulés soils (pudding stones, like Châteauneuf) are seamlessly blended in this superbly balanced and delicious red. The 2018 is a sophisticated, densely structured iteration, with sweet cherry spice on the nose and savoury tannins on the palate culminating in a long, taut finish. It will only benefit from some time in the cellar.

40% Jacquère, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Mondeuse Blanche. Apple-scented, textured, and refreshing. The slight yeasty character adds depth and weight, and its soaring acidity gives it a tangy grip, with its briny length making it so moreish. Domaine des Ardoisières on top form.

Sommelier-turned-winemaker Hervé Bizeul has earned kudos for his career change, from both somms and vignerons alike. He makes this superb cuvée from a parcel of very old vines (50-100 years) he bought in a forgotten corner of the Roussillon in the late 1990s. The vineyard had been abandoned, but over the past two decades has been brought back to life. The wine is a field blend of Grenache and local curiosity Lladoner Pelut, along with Carignan and Syrah grown on a limestone slope. The 2018 shows dark spice and black fruits, with dried herbs and a hint of salt. The structural tannins on the palate give it both richness and energy. It has impressive body, but there’s nothing heavy in its stature, lifted by just a hint of pepper running through the fruit.

It's hard to believe this is only the second vintage of Paradella. The confidence and skill of the winemaking here speaks of superb experience, which can be attributed to Lionel Wojcik’s training at Château Tertre Roteboeuf. Made from Nielluccio (the local name for Sangiovese) and grown in the Corsican commune of Patrimonio - the finest on the island - it has such intense, decadent red berries beneath its rich, toasty oak. It will meld beautifully together with a few years in bottle.

Didier Dagueneau is a legendary name in the Loire, and his Sauvignon Blancs of Pouilly Fumé and Sancerre are some of the most sought-after in the region. Before his untimely death he ventured into South-West France, making these delectable sweet wines from the Petit Mensang grape in Jurançon. His son, Benjamin, has continue these with great success, and as well as delicious ripeness and pineapple freshness, this has electric acidity, making for a hugely refreshing dessert wine.

This Muntada is a showstopper. There’s a thrilling wildness and energy here, with bright, pure fruit and sweet leather and spice. Predominantly Grenache and Carignan (from 125 year old vines), there’s superb concentration and complexity here.

This Sancerre Rosé is made in the village of Bué by brothers Clément and Florent Pinard, who know a thing or two about Pinot Noir. It's fresh and fruity, but with serious structure underneath making it a great accompaniment with food. It's a real all-rounder of a rosé, and easily one of the best in the appellation.

This is an excellent introduction to Saumur Rouge, with its sweet, leafy red fruit and silky tannins. Father and son team Michel and Thibaud Chevré are showing themselves to be every bit as skilled with reds as with whites, which is little surprise given Michel’s long career working with Thierry Germain.

This always stands out among Sancerre Rouges for its charming, early drinking style. It has lovely concentration of fruit with well-managed ripeness. Whole bunch vinification gives it a delicate juiciness. It is extremely pretty and nicely weighted. Drink this young and slightly chilled for a superbly refreshing glass of red.

Like La Bretonnière, this vineyard is also within Vouvray, but cannot use the AOC name since it is vinified in Montlouis. It comes from a south-facing slope, and Jacky and Jean-Philippe are careful to get the picking date right here. Too early and it loses its drama, too late and it feels overweight. In 2021 its as dramatic and exciting as it comes: pithy, zesty and fantastically long.

Staggering attention to detail is paid by Stéphane Riffault in both the vineyard and cellar. He is unquestionably making some of the most exciting wines in the appellation. They stand out for their tightly coiled, supercharged concentration. This is Sauvignon Blanc as you've never known it before: powerful, with a filigree, piercing, precise freshness. It reminds me of the best 2014s, Chablis-eqsue in stature. It comes from a parcel grown on Kimmeridgian marl, known locally as terres blanches, which produces wines full of flavour and texture. The 2021 is a tour de force, and appropriately marks the domaine's first year with full biodynamic certification.

This is another of Jacky's outstanding monopole vineyards. Like Clos de Venise, it actually lies within Vouvray, but becuase it is vinified on the other side of the river, in Montlouis, it cannot use the AOC name on its label. This irritating quirk of appellation beaurocracy should not overshadow the quality found here. In 2021 the Bretonnière has astonishing length and persistence. This, combined with its perfectly weighted body gives the impression of both concentration and density as well as a light-as-air frame, make it a captivating Chenin Blanc. It brims with citrus and blossom notes on the nose, with a spicy, saline palate. One of the picks of the vintage.

This has got to be one of the best value sweet wines on the market. It is bottled in 50cl exclusively for Lay & Wheeler - the perfect size, we feel. It's made from 100% Chenin Blanc in the Loire Valley, and its balance of sweetness and freshness absolutely hits the spot. It is a beautiful pale golden colour, with aromas of Seville orange marmalade and acacia honey. The palate is fresh and vibrant giving it a refreshing, long finish. There is so much going on here.

This Cabernet Franc rosé is such a pretty delicate pink. It comes from the domaine’s young vines, which yield a fruity and open wine. The 2021 is the best vintage we’ve tried so far, with a delicious citrus fruit energy accompanying the sweet red berry fruits on the nose. A simple summer delight.

Although the Loire is a region that has not embraced the cru system, it makes an exception when it comes to the magnificent sweet wines around the tributary of the Layon, near Angers. Quarts de Chaume is made from Chenin Blanc, and offers up a complex symphony of Seville orange bitterness with sweet candied citrus peel depth. The wine is intensely perfumed with honey, flowers, quince and apricot. It shows outstanding acidity which cuts through the concentrated sweetness. 2021 was a challenging year in the vineyards, and only the most dedicated we able to achieve noble sweet wines. This example from Domaine des Forges was only produced in tiny quantities and is available exclusively in 50cl bottles.

Léon (previously named Florilège) is made from a blend of parcels across the limestone soils of the appellation. This has a limestone salinity and a brilliant tension. Such a great example of the appellation.

This was yet again our top pick from the domaine’s four single vineyard wines. It comes from old vines planted on sandy gravel soils. It is always the first site to be picked, and in 2020 it captures the vibrant acidity and freshness of the vintage. The nose has subtle melon and green apple fruit, whilst the palate has beautiful energy, with crisp weight. A very complete and composed example of Quincy.

The Pinard brothers are the leading authority on Sancerre Rouge. This comes from a blend of parcels in the village of Bué, thought to be the best source of Pinot Noir in the Sancerre appellation. 50-year-old vines and low yields of around 30hl/ha give wonderful concentration. This means volumes are small, and demand far outstrips supply for this wine. It has deliciously fresh, ripe red fruit at its core, and silky tannins, it is an exceptionally well made Pinot Noir in any context. Wonderfully rich yet vibrant. 30% whole bunch.

Some of the vines in this vineyard are over 100 years old, and the wine always has a thrilling concentration and precision. The fruit is perfectly peachy, with a cool and silken texture on the palate that is supported by well-integrated oak.Fresh, vibrant, and complex, with bags of ageing potential.

Comtesse is widely regarded as one of the best, if not the best, parcel situated on what is firmly considered Sancerre's greatest hillside: Les Monts Damnés. Les Monts Damnés is a large south-facing slope running the full length of the village of Chavignol, and its Kimmeridgian terres blanches soils make some of the appellation's most powerful, structured, and longest lived wines. Comtesse has all these classic Monts Damnés characteristics, and then some. It is also one of the most perfumed and floral examples you'll find here. Its extraordinary aromatics unfurl in the glass with such intrigue and charm you'll forget this wine has anything to do with the Sauvignon Blanc grape. If you can resist the temptation posed by its delicious palate - racy, mineral, and fleshy all at once - then you'll appreciate just how much this wine has to say. It will transform in your glass through its various stages: fruit (papaya, lime), freshly cut flowers, chalky minerality, through to saline, oyster brine and smoky notes.

This is a grand cru in every sense of the word. It is so intensely perfumed with honey, flowers, quince and apricot. Outstanding acidity on the palate cuts through the concentrated sweetness. This is a high octane sweet wine.

All the fruit for this blend comes from two parcels found at the bottom part of the slope. Some vines here are as old as 80 years, so although the attack of this wine is juicy, upfront, and invitingly drinkable, the finish is sustained and persistent with that old vine concentration taking this above a simple easy-drinking wine. This 2019 has a leafy, sour cherry note, with lightly smoky, vegetal notes so typical of Cabernet Franc. It really opens up in the glass, promising it should age well.

This is a great vintage for Sauvignon Blanc in the Loire: ripe, balanced, and packed with punchy acidity. In 2019 Jean-François harvested this at night and the result is a pleasingly fresh wine with expressive energy. This is benchmark Sauvignon de Touraine, and a winner at this price.

These vines are grown on sandstone soils, and are picked around 10 days after La Jalousie, when the skins are a little thicker and beginning to turn golden brown. The wine is aged for 18 months in demi-muids, and the result is a wine that so perfectly captures the essence of Chenin Blanc. This is all crisp russet apple with just a hint of nutty complexity emerging. The palate is, whilst arresting in its freshness, also so silky in texture - a quality Evelyne says is typical of Les Caillardières. This is the dark horse of the Closel cellar: one to drink before the Clos du Papillon perhaps, but capably of giving as much enjoyment from its complex layer.

This is packed with juicy concentration, with an impressive tension. This is terroir-driven Sauvignon Blanc, with the texture and balance to age well, though it’s probably too enticing to ignore right now. Impressive length.

This vineyard is actually within Vouvray, but cannot use the AOC name since it is vinified in Montlouis. But that takes nothing away from the quality. This is powered by ripe fruit and floral intensity, and has a distinctive smoky character. The palate is full of tender nectarine with an impressive minerality.

These vines are grown on sandstone soils, and are picked around 10 days after La Jalousie, when the skins are a little thicker and beginning to turn golden brown. The wine is aged for 18 months in demi-muids, and the result is a wine that so perfectly captures the essence of Chenin Blanc. This is all crisp russet apple with just a hint of nutty complexity emerging. The palate is, whilst arresting in its freshness, also so silky in texture - a quality Evelyne says is typical of Les Caillardières. Captivating.

This is a masterclass in balance. The sweetness may be intense, but so too is the acidity, and the length is truly of Grand Cru standard. There is a salty freshness to the bitter orange marmalade palate, and a finish that goes on and on. This comes highly recommended; a truly great sweet wine that will evolve for years to come.

The Clos du Bourg has produced Huet’s broadest and most powerful Moelleux, which will age superbly. Verve and freshness from the acidity keep this wine lively on the palate in spite of the sweetness.

From a parcel of 35 year old vines at the bottom of the hill with clay and limestone soils. The wind here keeps the temperature down, creating wines with crunchy black fruit, fine tannins and nice texture. A delightful example of earlier-drinking Chinon.

A sweet Chenin Blanc from the hugely succesful 2015 vintage in the Loire.

Huet is regarded as the greatest of the Vouvray estates and produces wines that are virtually indestructible. In great vintages, a life expectancy of 30, 40 years or more is spoken of with confidence, and there is no disputing that 2005 was a fabulous year for Vouvray! As yet the bouquet and palate of this sweet cuvée from the Le Mont vineyard is quite closed, one has to delve deep into the glass for perfumes and flavours. Two days after we first opened the wine, the class and potential was clear to see, a sure indication of quality and staying power. Subtle sweetness is freshened by ripe acidity and the flavours display a wealth of glorious, ripe, pure tropical fruits which build to a fabulous crescendo. The beauty of a wine such as this is that it will be exquisite throughout its long life and develop added nuances as the ageing process takes its course.

More than any other variety, Gewürztraminer is a love-it-or-hate it grape. But anyone who claims to not like it is missing out when it comes to this wine. Its weight and aromatic perfume make it a brilliant match for one of the toughest foods to pair with wine - oily fish, particularly smoked salmon. It works when it’s young, and is even better with some bottle age. Spicy, floral, silky, and satisfying.

Gewürztraminer is, in the harnds of a master, an astonishing grape. It's decadent and floral, but aslo capable of remarkable ageing and fascinating development. From a grand cru site like Hengst the variety thrives. A small amount of residual sugar in the 2021gives a hint of lusciousness, but this is essentially a dry wine. Though don't hold back on the food paitings - this will be excellent with cheese and desert. 6.9g/l residual sugar (dry)

The sweetness/dryness of this wine can vary from vintage to vintage. The 2021 is for those who like their Gewürztraminer spicy and dry. It will be so exciting to see how this ages, as the heady rose petal aromatics, pithy freshness and vibrant acidity mature together. 4.2g/l residual sugar (dry)

Muscat is the maligned grape of Alsace. But in the right hands, it is one of the most wonderful wines to discover. It is a personal favourite of Olivier Humbrecht's, who espouses its combintaion of powerful aromatics with savoury palate of pithy precision that drinks wonderfully well in its youth. If you miss Muscat, you aren't really getting the whole Alsace picture, is his train of thought. This 2021 is fleshy, peachy, with vibrant acidity, greengage freshness, and terrific mineral drive. Goldert is the only cru in Alsace with marine oolithic limestone, which is a staggering 235 million years old. It is a late ripening terroir, and engenders the wine with a taut line of acidity not always common to the variety. There is not even a hint of the vulgar varietal character you find in a common Muscat. 0.5g/l residual sugar (bone dry)

The affinity between the granite-soiled Brand vineyard and the Gewürztraminer grape is well-recognised. This cuvée is a world-beater in terms of class and restraint: unusual descriptors for the flamboyant, aromatic variety. The palate has signature Boxler texture: silky, supple persistence. It is delicious already but will transcend into hyperbole with age.

Brand is one of the great Alsace grand cru sites. In Jean Boxler’s hands, this famous granite site does not disappoint. Compared to its cellar neighbours, it is usually the most forward and approachable of the Boxler grands crus. The 2020 has a heightened minerality, with tension on the nose, and enticing orange blossom notes. The palate bursts with fresh clementine juice and a sumptuous weight. Perfectly balanced, and capable of reaching a fine old age.

The richest Pinot Gris they made this year at 8g/l. Slightly reductive on the nose with a mineral, flinty feel from its volcanic soils. It’s very tightly wound now and needs some years in the bottle to open up. The mineral character follows through on the palate but there is a little softness to the texture and citrus, pear fruit already.

Grown on iron rich red soils with very low yields. Apple and pear fruit, delicate and restrained, with a seam of bright acidity, and not overly perfumed. Juicy on the mid palate with a drier finish. This is from a north west facing site facing the Vosges mountains and avoids too much direct sunshine, leaving it tight and zingy in style. There’s a tanginess to the acidity and lots of texture.

Brand is one of the great Alsace grand cru sites, producing not only formidable Rieslings, but also utterly delectable Gewürztraminers. Indeed the affinity between the granite-soiled Brand vineyard and the Gewürztraminer variety is obvious, and it’s no surprise that a third of the grand cru is planted with this variety - a far higher proportion than it holds in the wider appellation. This wine shows the typical class and restraint we’ve come to admire in Jean Boxler’s Gewürzts. It is precise, aromatically sophisticated, spiced and enticing, and anything but overblown or cloying. The palate has a signature Boxler texture: silky, supple and persistent. It is delicious already but will surely transcend to the realms of the exquisit with some age. Residual sugar 30 g/l.

Sommerberg is the steep 19 hectare grand cru hillside that rises up behind the village of Niedermorschwihr, where the Boxler cellar is located. Indeed, Sommerberg is synonymous with Boxler, and this wine is the most famous and celebrated iteration of the vineyard. It typically has drive and tension, and this 2020 is a superb iteration. It is floral, tight, and agile, with a deliciously long finish. The nose has an ethereal jasmine scent. This is a Riesling to hold onto for a few years and enjoy as it gains in stature with age.

Boxler's Pinot Gris Brand is, in our opinion, the greatest expression of the grape in the world. In 2018 it is rich and powerful, with a little residual sugar and a full bodied structure. The golden colour indicates a ripe style, and the aromas are bursting with sweet peaches, almonds and spiced ginger. This is a wine that demands food, just so as to have something to match its staggering power and length. Certainly not a wine for the faint hearted, but for those who are willing to wait, this might just end up being the most rewarding wine in your cellar.

From the "young vines" in this astounding grand cru, In fact, the vines are 35 years old, but that still counts as young here. Fresh and lightly tropical notes of pineapple, lime, and salt. There is a really fine acidity here that freshens up the palate. This has a very pretty frame, and considerable length.

Comtesse Madeleine: a brilliant white from Lirac, based on Marsanne, grown on limestone, and Clairette, whose vines are an impressive 140-150 year old. It is salty and mineral, with juicy stone fruit, some chalky notes and a refreshing and charming finsh.

This unique and exciting wine is produced from 140-150 year old Clairette vines It is waxy and concentrated, with a leesy, savoury character combined with saline depth and notes of dried honey and summer flowers. It is without question the greatest Clairette you will try.

The young vines planted by Graeme and Julie in l’Aleau have produced a miraculous wine in 2021. It’s only released in tiny quantities, but is well worth tracking down. There’s a step up in concentration and tension on the straight Condrieu. And the story behind the wine is one of the most charming we know. When winemakers talk about tending their vineyards like their gardens, we understand what they mean, but take it with a pinch of salt. In this case, these vines literally are Graeme and Julie’s garden, which sits between Coteau de Chéry and Château Grillet, below their house in Vérin. They bought the house a few years ago, and on discovering their garden was in fact prime AOC Condrieu, they not only decided to plant it with vines, but also to start their own domaine. So it’s where their story really begins.

Each year we see the Botts refine their style, and this Condrieu is a contender for most exciting wine of their 2021 vintage. They like to keep freshness in their Condrieu, rather than seeking richness and weight. And so 2021 plays right into their hands: the style is exactly that which they pursue. It is poised and energetic, vibrant and lively, with beautiful aromatic appeal. The granitic soils of Condrieu give the wine minerality and freshness alongside natural ripeness. It should be superb after a year in bottle.

Sometimes there is a marked difference between this and the Grand Vallon and Deponcins cuvées from Villard. But in a vintage like 2021 where the quality is so high, it sits side by side with its cellar siblings: all three fabulous in their different characters. The grapes come from various parcels around Chavany and Vérin. It displays wonderful tropical citrus notes: yuzu and kumquat. Nice mineral length.

2021 is the greatest vintage for northern Rhône whites since 2014, and this is the best Rocules we can remember tasting. Unlike recent warmer vintages that have lent into the honeyed, nutty, tropical richness of Marsanne, this is fresh, precise, and has its old vine concentration on full display not in high alcohol, but in profound length.

Comtesse Madeleine: a brilliant white, based on Marsanne, grown on limestone, and Clairette, whose vines are an impressive 140-150 year old. It is salty and mineral, refreshing and charming.

This unique and exciting wine - produced from 140-150 year old Clairette vines - was not produced in 2019, so it was with great excitement that we celebrate its triumphant return in 2020. It is waxy and intense, with a leesy, savoury character combined with saline depth and notes of dried honey and summer flowers. It is without question the greatest Clairette you will try.