French Wines

La Pitaude lies on Kimmeridgian terres blanches soils in the commune of Verdigny (very similar to that of the Monts Damnés vineyard). The site produces bunches with such small berries that the concentration of acidity and flavour in this wine absolutely soars. Yields are so low that Luc has considered pulling the vines out many times, but each year it makes such a spellbinding wine, he decides to keep them. And since this wine in such miniscule volumes, he hand writes with a gold pen on the bottle. It would do well for a few years in the cellar, and its saline, savoury structure will make it an excellent food wine in the years to come.

This fantastic site on the Côte Brune is shared between just three growers. The Garons’ vines were replanted in 1980 and 2001, and their youthful vigour produces a juicy wine, with a rounded balance. 30% whole bunch and 30% new oak add silkiness and depth.

65 year old vines here give incredible depth of flavour, as well as a beautifully balanced thread of acidity. Long and textured.

The prestige cuvée from one of the Southern Rhône's greatest estates.

Vaulorent is technically part of Fourchaume, the largest premier cru in Chablis, and is the only premier cru to share the same slope as the grand cru. It has very chalky soil and produces a wine of power and silky tension. The 2021 is so velvety and enticing, you almost don’t feel the power of the wine underneath the texture. Concentrated peach, apricot and a wonderful fresh grapefruit pithiness transcends, with a finish that is complex, long, saline and very fine - super!

This is pale ruby and has a deliciously cool crystalline nose of blue and red fruit. It’s a restrained and understated Pinot. The palate is peppered with some grippy tannins which support the earthy fruit well. A nice minty lift on the finish gives it a mineral tang.

The 2020 Peymouton is a brilliant example of the value that can be found on Bordeaux’s right bank. It’s from the same estate as Château Laroque, from vineyards that have not been classified as Grand Cru Classé. It’s crunchy and finely judged, with a wonderfully classical profile, grippy yet refined tannins, and a very long, mineral finish. It’s utterly delicious, and a real bargain.

Inky and brooding in colour, the 2018 Cheval Blanc has freshness with so much power, there's length and juicy fruit. Notes of spice and wild berries, with amazing refinement of tannins and cool fruit, too. Impeccable balance.

There are big expectations with new ownership for this Grand Cru sandwiched between Angelus and Le Dôme. The 2017 has impressive texture and energy with finely judged tannins.

"Another spectacular effort from L’Evangile, the 2010 is a close rival to the 2009 and should be fascinating to compare with that vintage over the next 30 or so years. Stunningly rich and black/purple in color, the 2010 L’Evangile offers up the tell-tale floral note as well as black raspberry jam intermixed with cassis and kirsch. There are also ethereal floral notes and a hint of background oak. The pH is slightly above average (3.7 versus the pH of 4.0 that the 2009 and 2000 possessed). This is a massive, rich, very impressive L’Evangile, and readers should take note of the “+” in my rating, which could certainly push this wine way up there. Remarkably, I was shocked when I learned that this wine was aged in 100% new oak, as the oak is a background element in this blockbuster l’Evangile. Forget it for 3-5 years, and drink it over the following 30-40. " 98+ points, Robert Parker

Philipponnat hold back a proportion of each vintage from their outstanding single vineyard Clos des Goisses, and age it sur lattes in their cellars. For those who love the complexity and vinous power of old Champagnes, there is nothing better.

Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is only ever made in the great vintages, and always with the great man’s personal preference in mind: a robust and full-bodied Champagne that develops incredible depth with age. The exact blend, as ever, is a closely guarded secret, but Pinot plays a starring role, with just "a zest of Chardonnay" Hubert de Billy, great-great-grandson of Pol Roger, says. The Pinot dominance gives structure, depth, and breadth to the wine, whilst Chardonnay gives a chalky, vibrant, savoury top note and fresh thread of acidity. All the fruit comes from grand cru vineyards which were already under vine in Churchill’s lifetime. 2015 was a warm year, yet the wine displays deceptively high acidity, making it both toothsome and refreshing. It is another great release from the exciting 2015 vintage.

Recently disgorged 2008 vintage Bollinger is as good in real life as it is on paper. 2008 is a giant amongst recent vintages: the wines are long lived, powerful, and deep. The Bollinger original release was an instant hit. It’s a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, and the R.D has seen extended ageing, finally disgorged in October 2022.This extra ageing has added weight and depth to this already extraordinary wine, that opens with a nutty, savoury aroma. The palate is compact at first, with incredible energy, before unfurling in a magnificent wave of baked orchard fruit, hazelnut toast and sensational freshness.

Trousseau is a pale in colour, light in tannin, and fresh in flavour red from Jura. This is aged in amphorae, which brings texture and purity to the fruit. It's got bone fide natural wine credentials, and would not be out of place in the coolest wine bar, and chilled down a little and servd at home, you couldn't find a better aperitif red. Crunchy and juicy.

Les Filles has earned a cult following. Each year the humorous label changes, and many of the 2021's predecessors have become collector's items. The wine is made from Bergeron, which is the local Savoie name for Roussanne. It shares much of the peachy, stone fruit ripeness you'd find in the Rhône, but with a verve all of its own. It is rich, bright, vibrant, and superbly long. Its weight and poise make it a great match with food. Gilles Berlioz is a passionate practicioner of organic farming and a benchmark producer in the Savoie.

Over the past few decades, Gros' Noré has emerged as a top Bandol address, rubbing shoulders with its famous neighbour, Tempier. Their powerful Mourvèdre blends are rich, spicy and impressively ageworthy, and as with all great Bandols, retain a salty, herb-infused freshness. This 2019 has such an intense aroma of wild berry fruit and savoury garrigue herbs. There is a refined focus on the palate, with its grippy little tannins thanks to the quality of Mourvèdre fruit in the blend. These are so well proportioned it gives it a noble astringency along the finish which is filled out with the abundant fruit. There are layers of tobacco and spice, with a touch of liquorice. It is both earthy and elegant, full of character, and with plenty of depth to evolve over the years.

It’s the acidity that makes this a very special wine, with amazing freshness alongside a silky, precise finish. There’s loads of tension, and notes of oyster shell and ripe pears. Brilliantly complex and balanced.

Calcareous soils with similar profile to parts of Burgundy, full of marine fossils. This is a late ripening site with cool influences. Elegant and delicate with zesty, citrus acidity. There is a golden apple flavour too with delicate mineral notes on the finish. This is all about bright freshness and delicacy at this early stage, with a tangy, pithy finish.

La Viallière is one of the great sites of the Côte Brune. Its mid-slope position and high proportion of gravelly stones aid drainage and produce wines of great finesse and voluptuous depth. This was the highlight of the Clusel Roch cellar in 2021 - lovely notes of torrefaction give the sweet fruit a toasty charm. It is a warm site, and usually produces the roundest, richest wine here. In 2021 it is on song: the freshness and elegant balance of the vintage showing it at its best.

This vineyard was planted in 1945, and the old vines are treated with huge respect in the Courbis cellar. It has been aged in 60% new oak, and will demand more time in bottle than the other Courbis wines. There is a natural density to the fruit, and the wine shows its calibre in a long, powerful finish.

This is the second of the domaine’s signature cuvées (the other is Cornas Les Chailles). It comes from, unsurprisingly, the old vines which are planted further up the slopes at altitudes ranging from 250-400m. Small amounts of whole bunch fruit (20%) add freshness and silkiness. In 2020 it benefits further from fruit that usually goes into a single vineyard cuvée, La Chapelle St Pierre, but because volumes were so small, it has been blended in here, adding extra lift and volume to the fruit. This wine shows superb old vine intensity, with density and precision in its notes of tapenade and cassis.

This tiny cuvée is the jewel in the crown at this estate. Whilst it might be easy for a young domaine to buy vineyards in Seyssuel, it is not so easy in Côte-Rôtie. But Graeme and Julie do have two tiny parcels, and this cuvée has already won them much praise as newcomers to get seriously excited about. Impeccably balanced Côte-Rôtie from the outstanding 2020 vintage.

This comes from gnarled 70-year-old vines in neighbouring Gigondas. Its 70% Grenache base gives it a juicy fluidity and composure. 15% Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre add their peppery spice and frame to the win beautifully. This is absolutely spot-on southern Rhône joy in a glass.

This vineyard is a monopole of the estate which has been in the hands of the family since 1860. Where the Brûlées is firm and structured, Clos de Réas is more lithe, mineral and supple, with a sophisticated flavour palette of blood oranges, crushed raspberries, ripe damson and fresh rosemary. It is both luxurious and refined.

Tuvilains is a lovely vineyard on the Pommard side of the town. Scented with rhubarb and raspberries, with a lot of structure on the palate. There is 30% whole bunch here, and some support from 20% new oak. More peppery and full bodied than the previous vintage. You can feel the heat of the summer a little in the fruit profile, although the fresh acidity keeps the structure cool.

The nose is reticent at first, but with time and aeration, aromas of pure blackcurrant, violets, cocoa bean and smoke emerge. On the palate this is a wine of grand stature. There is a ripe sweetness and multilayered depth to the fruit which offsets the fine and insistent grip of the tannin. This wine is classically Haut-Brion in its broad and powerful nature, alongside a lightness of touch, elegance and precision. There is a hidden depth to this wine, with just a touch of nuance and detail evident at this young stage. The incredibly long finish is an early testament to the potential that this will evolve into great wine with time.

Cédric Bouchard has enjoying a meteoric rise in fame and demand. His have fast become some of the hardest to find Champagnes. He had started his career as a sommelier in Paris, but in 2000 decided to return home to the family domaine in Celles-sur-Ource in the Côte des Bar, where he brought his huge knowledge of world wine styles to bear on his own thoughtful production. His way of making wines often leans more towards Burgundy than Champagne. His philosophy is: single vineyard, single variety. And in each of his cuvées he seems to transcend both, creating something truly special. He has some of the lowest yields in all of Champagne, and practices ageing in tank, using low pressure, and zero dosage.

This is the sweet spot of Domaine de la Butte - from right in the middle of the slope - and as such, produces the most complex and ageworthy of this triptych. Jacky and Jean-Philippe hold the wine back for an extra six months in the cellar before release as they know: this wine needs time. Its huge concentration and tannic stature are matched to slightly more new oak than the other wines. The density of fruit is more than a match.

Another big step up, this is a hugely impressive Savennières from one of the commune’s most celebrated vineyards. The fruit is lacy and pure, with really intense Chenin complexity:
a grassy, yeasty note alongside mouth-coating minerality. Superb.

This comes from old vines planted in the historic vineyard. It is undeniably powerful, and would benefit from a few years in the cellar.

This is a wine that’s overlooked at your peril. From a number of plots, such as Combe, Les Saveaux, Cayret, Les Mazards, Chaillot and Chapuzes, this is the essence of Cornas. Baked earth and rusty notes, with a wonderful deep core of fruit, this is long,

This is a hugely powerful and impressive Châteauneuf. Old vines (100 years+), low yields, slightly cooler north-facing terraces, and Jaun-Paul's magic touch make for an exquisite wine.

A classic example from this cooler region in the hills above the Ladoix-Serrigny in the Côte de Beaune. It is peachy and smooth, quite grapey in style, with lovely roundness and a silky texture.

This is the defining wine of this famous grand cru, the one to which everyone looks as the quintessential Corton-Charlemagne. The west-facing aspect of the hill means the vines enjoy the long rays of the afternoon sun, making for rich textures and a sumptuous depth of fruit.

This is undoubtedly one of the greatest premier cru sites in the Côte de Nuits. Clos Frantin are the proud owners of 1.75 hectares.

This parcel actually used to be classified as a village parcel, and winemaker Mark seems particularly fond of it. It is really elegant and refined in 2021, with a hint of Gevrey’s density and spice. There’s a delicious hint of blood orange on the palate giving this a lift, there’s fine grained tannins and a long and pure, fruity finish. It’s one of the best Bourgogne Rouges you’ll find.

Whilst most of the vineyard is terrassed (and goes into the blend bearing that name), a small half hectare section is not, having been planted in 1984. It might be difficult to farm, and very hard work to harvest, but it’s well worth it for the wine it produces. This 2019 hits the Pinot sweet spot. There’s no new oak getting in the way here; it’s just Pinot’s crystalline red fruit and subtle spice (cranberries and a hint of nutmeg) that sing here. It has a long, mineral finish.

Always one of our favourite wines here, the Bressandes is a masterpiece in 2018. Incredibly dark with cherries and flowers, and a mineral tang here. This is so complex and pure.

This is a very pure Belair-Monange, and the best we can remember tasting. The palate has a lovely savoury edge to it, with amazing purity of fruit and excellent persistence. The texture coats the mouth, and the building flavours seem to last an age. Chapeau Christian, Edouard and all the team.

This is low-intervention in the extreme: Jean-Claude doesn’t touch the tank during its 12 day maceration and fermentation. Combine this with zero sulphur and 100% whole bunch, and you’d be forgiven for assuming this would stray far onto the funky side of ‘natural’ wine. Yet it remains wonderfully poised. For anyone who knows the 2019 Eau Forte, this is a completely different animal. Where the 2019 was light, crunchy, and aromatic, the 2020 is powerful, structured, though still so very elegant. Its velour tannins and cool minty fruit culminate in a long sumptuous finish, and mean the wine is the most successful of Jean-Claude’s fuller-bodied 2020s.

Like La Bretonnière, this vineyard is also within Vouvray, but cannot use the AOC name since it is vinified in Montlouis. It comes from a south-facing slope, and Jacky and Jean-Philippe are careful to get the picking date right here. Too early and it loses its drama, too late and it feels overweight. In 2020 it is distinctly pithy and dry, agile and long.

All the fruit for this blend comes from two parcels found at the bottom part of the slope. Some vines here are as old as 80 years, so although the attack of this wine is juicy, upfront, and invitingly drinkable, the finish is sustained and persistent with that old vine concentration taking this above a simple easy-drinking wine. It’s got a wonderful sour cherry note, with lightly smoky notes. This always works well in its youth.

These vines are grown on sandstone soils, and are picked around 10 days after La Jalousie, when the skins are a little thicker and beginning to turn golden brown. The wine is aged for 18 months in demi-muids, and the result is a wine that so perfectly captures the essence of Chenin Blanc. This is all crisp russet apple with just a hint of nutty complexity emerging. The palate is, whilst arresting in its freshness, also so silky in texture - a quality Evelyne says is typical of Les Caillardières. This is the dark horse of the Closel cellar: one to drink before the Clos du Papillon perhaps, but capably of giving as much enjoyment from its complex layer.

This is the jewel in the crown of this domaine. It comes from a limestone (tuffeau) site overlooking the Loire which is so steep it has to be worked by horse instead of tractor. The nose has a chalky, mineral note alongside the apple and quince notes. The palate has a satisfying and silky weight, and a long, powerful finish.

This is the flagship wine of the estate, and offers the best of Muscadet: pale lemon yellow, a little citrus and blossom on the nose, an elegant, defined length, with some savoury structure from lees ageing bringing it all together. This is an absolutely charming Muscadet. In 2019 it has an effortless freshness, and poised balance.

Bright and aromatic on the nose and palate with a softness to the texture despite plenty of bright acidity. Golden apple and pear fruit flavours with fresh lemon. Juicy on the mid-palate with some richness before a more savoury finish. Grown on granite soils, there’s a crystalline purity and elegance.

Quite steely and reductive now, thanks to a long fermentation until November 2022 on the fine lees. This gives it masses of volume on the palate with rich juicy fruit. There’s zingy acidity here and a dry, chalky finish. Lots of savoury lees character makes it appetising and lip-smacking on the finish.

Grown on clay limestone on some of the coldest soils they have for Riesling, this vineyard is surrounded by hills limiting the sunlight it receives. There’s some warmth here still, with a silky texture and some rich breadth. Savoury on the palate with ripe apple fruit and some citrus too, with very subtle petrol hints at this early stage.

Dark bramble fruit with herbal notes and earthy, savoury spice. The tannins are tightly packed and fine, with a powerful, muscular structure. Warmth on the palate but with lifted, juicy red berry acidity.

This has fast become a Lay & Wheeler favourite. It’s a juicy, pure, light-footed, and expressive Syrah that comes from vines planted just beyond the limits of the Côte-Rôtie appellation. The 2020 has a poised cassis character with a leafy freshness, and a perfume of violets and peonies. Smooth and appetising. Stock up.

The prestige cuvée from one of the Southern Rhône's greatest estates.

Another top cuvee, made from vines planted in 1901 in Pignam and La Crau, on sand, it’s named after their father Pierre, not a reference to stone. Volume and power, yet still elegance and finesse. Bravo.

La Belle Hélène comes from the lieu-dit Rozier that lies in the northern half of the appellation, on the Côte Brune. Here the mica-schist soils and granite soils produce structured and concentrated wines, with lots of black fruit flavours, and plenty of power to see it through a few decades in the cellar.

Superb old vine Grenache and surely one of the wines of the vintage. Traditionally made, raised in large oak foudres, this wine has layer upon layer of fresh and dried fruit interlaced with savoury elements such as Ibérico ham and white pepper. Very long and complex.

This is Guy Breton’s top cuvée, and is given his nickname, P’tit Max, which he has been called since childhood after his father. The wine comes from a parcel of low yielding 130-year-old vines. He says that rather than being bigger or oakier than the rest of his wines (as top cuvées at other addresses can be), it instead has a level of finesse that sets it apart. This 2021 is so refined, with juicy elegance and perfectly formed velvety tannins. There is mineral depth to the fruit, and the wine already tastes delicious at this early stage. Don’t be afraid to cellar this with confidence.

This old vine cuvée takes the prize for ‘hidden gem’ of our Chablis range. It comes from 40- to almost 70-year-old vines scattered across seven parcels, with a variety of soil structures and exposures. Due to the size of the harvest in 2021, Romain blended his Chablis grapes into this cuvee too. It is mineral, zingy, green-appley-fresh and concentrated, with great drive and depth. This may be a wine of humble communal classification, but it has a profound character, and deserves special attention.

This comes from seven parcels around the village, including La Justice, Forneaux, and Clos Prieur Bas. It is so precise and lengthy, with a vibrant cherry red fruit that seems to go far beyond what a village usually delivers. It’s one of Mark’s favourites in the cellar, and we can see why. A small, well-judged amount of whole bunch adds just a hint of lift. It is a resounding success in 2020.

Fragile old vines planted in 1964 produce a wine of surprising structure. The concentration of fruit, the frame of tannins, and the long drive on the back-palate are perhaps more in line with the traditional image of Nuits-St-Georges than Axelle’s Vallerots cuvées. It has bursting red currants and a firm blended spice note. This quintessential Nuits cuvée has superb length, and would be elevated further still if served with food.

From the Vosne side of Nuits, bordering the town.This is silky but with plenty of grip and structure. Long: a very good village wine.

Probably the finest Beaune vineyard, in the 19th century it was seen as a Tête de Cuvée, the top level of the côte’s wines. ⅔ of the vines here are over 55-60 years old. Blood orange and dark fruit, there’s so much to this. Lovely fruit, and the tannin builds on the crunchy finish, which is fresh withamazing elegance. Expressive and long.

High on the slope and bordering Vosne, offering elements of the two communes. It’s incredibly mineral, as you’d expect from this poor soil. Limestone and gunflint, with crunchy red fruit and flowers, and loads of energy on the finish.

Mazis is the most northern of the Gevrey grands crus, and is renowned for making some of the most seductive wines amongst them. The Faiveley plot benefits from some very old vines, some of which were planted in 1930. The sweetly scented red berry fruit of 2017 is married with sleek new oak. Balanced and with a very fine, long finish. Truly grand cru.

From the Ausone stable of wines, Moulin St-Georges is a smart buy in 2020. It's a generous yet impeccably balanced St-Emilion, that shows the success of merlot in the vintage.

Incredible value from this celebrated vintage. The 2019 Le Petit Smith Haut Lafitte is bright and expressive with aromas of blackcurrants, blackberry, dark coffee and a smokiness from oak. The palate is moreish and juicy with more cassis and plum flavours, fine tannins and a balanced and elegant freshness. There are developing flavours of fresh coffee, dried herbs and liquorice in the background that will only build and add to the volume of this seriously impressive second wine.

Deep, dark and floral, with good power and energy, too. There's nice depth here, and opulence to the nose. Lovely mouthfeel, silky fine and saline, but with restraint. Balance is impressive. A top drawer LFP.

This Cheval Blanc is deep and brooding, with notes of pencil lead and spice around the dark fruit. It's finessed and classical, with lots of refined, elegant tannins. Really balanced, and long too, with a nice savouriness to the finish.

Released in 2022 directly from the Bollinger cellars in Champagne

This 2015 from Pol Roger has a beautifully precise, delicate nose with floral notes taking the lead and orchard notes underneath. It is a classic blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay from grand and premier crus sites across the Montagne de Reims and the Côte des Blancs. The palate is fresh and agile, with just a hint of brioche, biscuity richness, which should emerge further with bottle age. Overall it is one of the prettiest, most subtle, and enticing releases from Pol Roger in recent years.

This comes from one of the hottest domaines in Savoie. It is a blend of local varieties, Persan and Mondeuse, and its mineral, salty, pure, and sweetly fruited palate is just beautiful. It's a really exciting wine from a small corner of the wine world.

This magnificent slope rises up behind the village of Niedermorschwihr. It’s extremely steep, and produces wines of superb power and scintillating tension from its sedimentary volcanic soils. Zind Humbrecht only released this wine for the first time in 2019. The parcel was bought in 2010 and replanted after a few fallow years, in 2013. High density planting (9000 vines/hectare) and the steepness of the slope here have pushed the young vines to produce something really quite extraordinary. Indeed, Olivier admits, he hadn’t been planning on releasing a wine from this site so soon, but was so astonished with the quality and character of the wines from 2019 onwards that he felt compelled to do so. 2.8g/l residual sugar (dry)

Rangen de Thann is the most southerly of the Alsace Grands Crus, and the quality of its wines has been documented as far back as the 12th century. Olivier Humbrecht's immaculate vineyard work in its volcanic soils combined with low yields make this 2021 a wine of sensational freshness, inspite of the fact it's one of the parcels to be picked latest. It has a breadth of lime and papaya fruit on the nose witha silky texture on the palate. There is so much tension and power in this grand cru; it will age brilliantly. This magnificent slope rises up behind the village of Niedermorschwihr. It’s extremely steep, and produces wines of superb power and scintillating tension from its sedimentary volcanic soils. Zind Humbrecht only released this wine for the first time in 2019. The parcel was bought in 2010 and replanted after a few fallow years, in 2013. High density planting (9000 vines/hectare) and the steepness of the slope here have pushed the young vines to produce something really quite extraordinary. Indeed, Olivier admits, he hadn’t been planning on releasing a wine from this site so soon, but was so astonished with the quality and character of the wines from 2019 onwards that he felt compelled to do so. 3.5g/l residual sugar (dry)

René Rostaing is one of the most famous and respected of Côte-Rôtie ‘s vignerons. He is all but retired these days, leaving the domaine in the capable hands of his son, Pierre. This 1999 was made during René’s pomp, and shows the ambition and skill of a winemaker at the top of his game.

1991 is a vintage prized by Syrah lovers for its balance, with the best wines marrying ripeness of fruit and freshness, with refined and silky tannins. La Chapelle is one of the world’s greatest wines, and this parcel is remarkable, coming direct from the estate’s cellars. Don’t miss it.

Crozes-Hermitage is the sweet spot of the Delas offering. This is their no-nonsense, great value, fruit-driven Syrah with notes of anise and red berries. Sadly in 2019 some of the parcels were badly hit by the June hailstorm, so volumes are severely reduced. But thanks to the fragmented layout of the holdings, some were left unscathed, and quality remains as high as ever.

La Viallière is one of the great sites of the Côte Brune. Its mid-slope position and high proportion of gravelly stones aid drainage and produce wines of great finesse. It is savoury, smooth, and long, with silky tannins and peppery freshness.

When we taste a wine like this, with such intense and eloquent expression, it is all the indication we need to follow an exciting new domaine. The 2018 is a deep plummy purple, with intense aromas of cassis, pepper and thyme. The palate is built around a bed of sweet, silky tannins, giving a smooth and dense structure, This is intense, dramaic, and compelling. Like all great Côte-Rôtie, with a few years in bottle this Syrah will fully unfurl.

Blagny sits high up, above the heart of the Meursault commune. This altitude brings a focused freshness to the wines. It has notes of honeydew melon, with a richly mineral seashell note - not unlike Chablis - on the nose. The soil is very white limestone up here, and this makes for a scintillating palate. It feels straighter than the Grands Charrons, in many ways, more like a Puligny in profile than a Meursault.

This comes from seven parcels around the village, including La Justice, Forneaux, and Clos Prieur Bas. It is so precise and lengthy, with a lively, spicy, cherry red fruit that seems to go far beyond what a village usually delivers. It’s one of Mark’s favourites in the cellar, and we can see why. A small (25%), well-judged amount of whole bunch adds just a hint of lift. This is fantastic in 2021.

This comes from the young vines of the domaine, which are scattered across various parcels around the village of Nantoux. It has a zesty acidity giving it a fresh profile, which is twinned with the ripe berry fruit character. Whole bunch has been upped to 50% in 2020. It has a nice pepperiness, with a sapid length.

Les Hâtes sits in the middle of the village, surrounded by premiers crus on well-draining soil. It is so red-fruited and floral - bursting with grenadine and red currant aromas - that you’d be forgiven for thinking it probably has a high proportion of whole bunch fruit. But, in fact, David says only 3-5% whole bunches went into the tank. The floral character is a natural expression of the site, and makes it a delicious introduction to the village for first-timers.

This is a blend of two parcels. Just over half (55%) comes from a village parcel, but the other 45% comes from the 1er Cru Clos Rousseau vineyard, which is an extension of the vineyard of the same name in Santenay. It is so bright and energetic, with a crunchy texture and well-handled tannins, giving it bite, but no hard edges. This is vibrant, red-fruited, light-bodied, crisp Pinot Noir. 15% whole bunch fruit gives it a sweet and lifted air.

Managing richness and finesse, there’s fine and dancing acidity with pure peach fruit and hints of grapefruit. A wonderfully floral finish.

The best value second wine of a First Growth, the 2020 is a blend of 60.1% Merlot, 31.7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6.7% Cabernet Franc and 1.5% Petit Verdot.

The second wine of L’If, from the Jacques Thienpont stable, shines in the fantastic 2019 vintage. It’s a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc and comes from three hectares of young vines in the L’If estate. It’s aged in 50% new oak for one year, and the result is a lovely balance of bright red berry fruit and creamy texture. Vibrant and complex on the palate, it has sweeter spice notes like licquorice and a fresh minty character on the finish.

Fragrant and scented aromas of red fruits, blueberry and a touch of vanilla from the oak. The palate is smooth and round with really fine tannin. This wine emphasises the purity and intensity of the fruit character and reveals its Pauillac power and attack as it builds on the palate with repeated tasting.

A great vintage of Chateau Latour with potential to age for decades. Approachable now with some dense fruit cake flavours and a hint of savoury tobacco just starting to emerge. Plenty of structure for age with robust and fine grained tannins, but restrained use of new oak means the fruit really shines through.

Indigène is a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot noir and 5% each of Poulsard and Trousseau. Its name refers to the use of only natural ingredients in its winemaking: primary fermentation with indigenous yeasts, and secondary fermentation initiated by the addition of Stéphane's own liqueur de tirage, made from the domaine’s own, fermenting straw wine. It is creamy and gently sparkling, with a vinous character running through the palate. It is one of the finest examples of its type

Alain Voge’s pithy sparkling wine, Les Bulles d’Alain, is unlike anything else we have on our list. It is lively, dry, refreshing, and refined. If you’re in the mood for bubbles, but don’t want the weight of a Champagne, this is the perfect option, and a smart price too. It’s a very good example of why Saint-Péray has built its renown for sparkling wines.

Alain Voge’s pithy sparkling wine, Les Bulles d’Alain, is unlike anything else we have on our list. It is lively, dry, refreshing, and refined. If you’re in the mood for bubbles, but don’t want the weight of a Champagne, this is the perfect option, and a smart price too. It’s a very good example of why Saint-Péray has built its renown for sparkling wines.

Bollinger's late disgorgement release from the celebrated 1996 vintage.

Released in 2022 directly from the Bollinger cellars in Champagne