Macon/Côte Chalonnaise 2021: New Releases

This is a brilliant blend of the appellation, drawn from over 50 separate parcels, 4 of which are now actually premiers crus but produced in too small volumes to be bottled separately. In 2021 this includes Brûlés as only 2hl was produced. This all makes for a very complete and complex portrait of the region. About half the parcels are on Fuissé’s typically clay soil, with the rest on limestone and sandy schist soils. 50% of the wine is aged in oak, a small proportion of that new oak. Discreet vanilla notes set off ripe, yet cool aromas of confit lemon, floral notes and stone fruit. The rich concentration of fruit is elegantly balanced with a core of lively lemon acidity. This is the flagship wine of the estate, and performs every year.

After many years, premiers crus were finally recognised in Pouilly-Fuissé from the 2020 vintage. Château de Fuissé are delighted and proud that their superb monopole vineyard that sits just next to the historic château has been recognised with this classification. It is a 2.7 hectare vineyard, home to many old vines, some of which were planted as far back as 1929. The youngest vines you’ll find here are actually from 1984. There is real intensity in this wine, with toasty, candied lemon peel notes and a subtle anise lift on the nose. The palate is powerful in its concentration and textural complexity, packed full of peach, nectarine and a smattering of fresh ginger. The finish is mineral, saline and persistent, this wine is built to last! It is no surprise it has been upgraded.

This comes from three parcels, two of which lie on the limestone soils near the distinctive Solutré rock bringing a tension to the wine, and the third on a richer clay site near Pouilly bringing density. It has been vinified in stainless steel only and has a wonderful freshness in 2021, with light citrus and white peach aromatics, and a long, fine, saline finish.

Claudie’s father, in his days of running a plant nursery with access to a huge range of plant material, planted seven different clones of Pinot Noir in this 2.5 hectare site. Now at 45 years old, this diversity, twinned with the quality of vineyard husbandry, means the vineyard is thriving. The different clones call for pruning and harvesting at different times, but it’s an effort worth making, as the wine is texturally sophisticated, juicy, and full of Pinot nuance. So balanced and extremely drinkable.

Les Epenotes was the first site to be awarded premier cru status in Beaune. This parcel of between 65 and 80 years old, was planted by Claudie’s grandfather. Claudie comments that this parcel is the first to be harvested, which they always do themselves before their team arrives! The 2021 is packed full of spicy, red and even black fruit aromas. This wine has fantastic energy, the purity and depth of the fruit leaving a lasting impression on the palate. Very fine.

This comes from three neighbouring parcels near the cellar, from vines with an average age of 45 years. The additional clay in the soil here gives added depth to this cuvée, as well as more longevity. This is such an enjoyable wine: it has ripeness and personality in spades, with a razor-sharp line of acidity slicing through to a long finish.

This is made from a combination of three parcels in the south of the Mercurey appellation from one single lieu-dit. The vines are now over 75 years old, and the wine they make is one of the most juicy and delicious reds you can find at this price level. It has a well-balanced body, and a long, fine finish, with aromatic, fruity cherry on the nose, and soft, supple tannins.

This premier cru, in the south of the appellation, is a south-facing sun-trap. It offers up Volnay-esque red-fruited floral notes. It has a pure, juicy core, lacy freshness, and a perfectly pitched fine-boned structure. This is an absolute joy to drink now, and a very smart little wine for the price.

Clos du Roy is one of the finest sites in Mercurey and this comes from a parcel of 55 year old vines. The 2021 shows lovely ripe plummy aromas on the nose with a touch of rose. The palate has so much fruit concentration, density and depth supported by some silky and supple tannins. At the same time, this is fresh and very well-balanced with a long, fine, saline finish.

This is the village where you’ll find the cellar, and it makes what we think of as the most classic example from the domaine. From higher-altitude parcels, this is juicy and fine, and there’s a lot of purity.

Dominique owns 2 hectares in Saint-Véran. It’s one of his more recent purchases, with two parcels picked up in 2014 and 2016. Powerful yet impeccably balanced, this shouldn’t be missed in 2021.

This is the pinnacle of the Lafon wines in the Mâconnais, or as Dominique would put it, the ‘Porusots’ of the Mâcon domaine. That is to say: crystalline and pure, with a power, presence and precision you might expect from a much grander appellation in the Côte d'Or. In the brilliant 2021 vintage, it’s not to be missed.

Not made in 2019 due to frost. The vines lie near Saint-Véran, and they tend to ripen early. This is charming and easy, with lots of creamy fruit on the finish.

Many parcels are blended into this brilliant wine, all from the Viré side of the appellation. The old vines thrive in the village’s clay-rich topsoil over limestone subsoil. The wines from this side of the appellation tend to be straighter and tighter than the more generous and rounded Clessé side. This is a brilliant 2021, but will need a little time to come together.