Côte de Beaune 2018

Puligny’s largest vineyard, and the pick of Alain’s premiers crus. Folatières in 2018 is a great success for Alain. Notes of pink grapefruit and orange blossom, there’s real intensity and length here. Very pure and long, with wonderful energy.

The plot of Charmes in Puligny borders Charmes in Meursault, so it’s a village vineyard next to a premier cru. There’s a beautiful fragrance to Alain’s 2018 Charmes. Very mineral on the palate, but with depth of yellow fruit, there’s excellent complexity for a village wine here.

This was the final wine tasted one day in Burgundy, and it blew us away: what a way to finish the day. Lime and grapefruit, and such salinity: you really feel the soil here. Open and energetic, it’s an explosion on the palate. Brilliant.

The site of a former quarry, the soil in Perrières is very stony. Purity is the key word here: this has well defined fruit and a saline, stony character. You can see why this is Meursault’s unofficial Grand Cru.

Morgeot is the largest cru of Chassagne, with individually-named climats within its ten hectares. Moreau has vines in two: Les Fairendes and La Cadeuse, which is a monopole for them, and from which they also make a red wine. There’s plenty of depth and grip here, with a really mouthwatering finish. This is gourmand.

Very floral on the nose, with wild violets and also strawberries and raspberries. This shows the warmth of the vintage, but with real charm. If Savigny can sometimes be austere and rustic, this is the antidote.

Always one of our favourite wines here, the Bressandes is a masterpiece in 2018. Incredibly dark with cherries and flowers, and a mineral tang here. This is so complex and pure.

Incredibly charming in 2018, this has juicy fruits, with cherries and also a hint of wild herbs. Very finely balanced, with a juiciness, and a very long finish.

This is made in the old fashioned method, with 12 hours in a vertical whole bunch press, once the skins have been split open. When we tasted it still hadn’t seen sulphur. Very fresh pears and energetic.

Their Corton Blanc is a blend of grapes from Bressandes and Chaumes. One third in Stockinger barrels. This is long with notes of toast and vanilla, but also wonderful white fruit and soaring floral aromatics. The volume builds. This is outstanding - an affordable Grand Cru.

From a blend of two parcels in the centre of the appellation, Les Grands Champs and Les Famines. This is bright and juicy, with crushed raspberries on the nose and the village’s supple elegance on the palate. It has smooth, silky tannins and a long, pure finish. Always one of the most charming wines in the Comte Armand cellar, the 2018 has all elements in perfect balance.

This comes from a blend of two vineyards in Auxey: Les Bréterins and Bas des Duresses. One is clay-based and the other chalky. Silky and fine, with salinity and very pure fruit, this remains one of the best value wines we know.

This comes from a blend of two vineyards in Auxey: Les Bréterins and Bas des Duresses. One is clay-based and the other chalky. Silky and fine, with salinity and very pure fruit, this remains one of the best value wines we know.

The very oldest vines in Le Clos were planted in 1919, and the vines considered young are over 35 years old. This is an astonishing Clos. Paul has maintained freshness and purity, with amazing depth and intensity. This remains one of Burgundy’s greatest wines (and its greatest buys).

The very oldest vines in Le Clos were planted in 1919, and the vines considered young are over 35 years old. This is an astonishing Clos. Paul has maintained freshness and purity, with amazing depth and intensity. This remains one of Burgundy’s greatest wines (and its greatest buys).

With just a third of a hectare of this already tiny Grand Cru, they don’t make much. But wow. There’s volume and texture and intense fruit here. Really fragrant, there are notes of rose petal, with a finish that unfurls. So long and complex.

From a site just up the road from the winery, near the heart of the village, there are two parcels, one of 0.56ha and the other 0.17ha. It’s one of their biggest production wines. Very saline, but with richness of fruit, too, there’s notes of orange blossom and grapefruit essence, and a hint of spice on the energetic finish. Long.

Clos de la Chatenière is a south-facing parcel surrounded by a wall, with 65 year old vines. There’s richness with notes of ginger and saffron, and plenty of focus and spice. This is beautifully precise, with plenty of texture.

En Remilly is considered the finest vineyard in St-Aubin by many - it’s the continuation of the Montrachet hillside. Notes of grapefruit and seville oranges, with remarkable drive and focus. The purity of fruit here is astonishing; as is the length.

In the very heart of the village of Santenay, surrounded by premiers crus, a 19th century owner of this vineyard, M. Duvault-Blochet, also owned Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. With 50% whole bunch, this is crunchy and very saline, with a beautifully creamy finish. There’s lovely fruit here. A red not to be missed.

Historically known as a village for reds, Chassagne can still be home to some of the Côte de Beaune’s Pinot Noir gems. Here the vines are 100+ years old, Dark fruit and lavender on the nose, it’s very expressive. Really cool fruit, and smoky and earthy, this is one you simply have to try.

60% Meursault, 40% Puligny, with three plots in Meursault and one in Puligny. This is a beautiful Bourgogne in 2018. There’s notes of lime blossom, with lifted fruit and plenty of energy. Delicious.

Vines were planted in in Blagny, one of Meursault's highest vineyards, in 1984 and this shows in the focus, energy, and vertical character of this wine. Delicate flowers and lovely citrus precision. Very good indeed.

A monopole of the Lafarge family - the 0.57 hectares are entirely under their ownership, produced as an individual wine since 1985. It’s hand destemmed, taking 35 hours for just 3000 bottles. This is Grand Cru in all but name. Noble, fresh, long, voluminous, complex, stunning. There’s not much more to say.

Made from a selection at the time of harvest, this treads the line between village and premier cru. It comes from four different terroirs at the heart of the village, with more deeper, darker fruit than the normal Volnay. The plethora of limestone in this part of the village gives incredible purity and energy. One for the ages.

From the vineyard just up the road from the winery, often better celebrated for its red wines. Cool and saline, with notes of greengage and plenty of nervous energy. Brilliant purity, here.

Thierry’s dad, Paul, started bottling Mazures as a single vineyard wine, and its quality year in year out justifies the decision: Thierry considers it premier cru level. This so intense and driven, with elegant acidity and plenty of texture on the long and complex finish.

Really intense and floral, with such focus of fruit and a long and unfurling finish, this Grand Cru is glorious. The finish lasts for minutes: we could almost still taste it at our next appointment.

A celebrated premier cru up the slope in Nuits. This is elegant and lifted, with Nuits minerality and plenty of crunchy dark fruit. Long and savoury: Nuits intensity with Vosne elegance.

Les Suchots is one of Vosne’s greatest vineyards, situated on the line of Grands Crus. Vines planted in 1937. Power and volume here, but not lacking focus on the palate. It’s a brilliant example of a brilliant vineyard.

From vines planted in 1927, between Echézeaux and Clos de Vougeot, this might be the best placed village vineyard on the Côte de Nuits. And this shows in the quality here. Intense and structured, with beautiful energy: outstanding.

Lifted and fragrant, with perfumed fruit and tons of energy. There’s a density here, with plenty of crunchy berries and a long finish. The benchmark for everyday drinking.

When he purchased his Malconsorts parcel in 2005, Etienne separated the section of the vineyard that forms a small enclave within the grand cru La Tâche, and decided to bottle it separately, naming it after his mother. Inky and voluminous, this is remarkable. A lesson in balance of power, concentration, and finesse. It lasts an age.

Les Rugiens-Bas has long been a candidate for elevation to Grand Cru status, and was Hubert’s favourite wine. Very pure, and lovely nervous energy, amazing texture, serious earthy notes, dark berry fruit, and such a sense of nobility and focus. Iron oxide and great energy – outstanding.Les Rugiens-Bas has long been a candidate for elevation to Grand Cru status, and was Hubert’s favourite wine. Very pure, and lovely nervous energy, amazing texture, serious earthy notes, dark berry fruit, and such a sense of nobility and focus. Iron oxide and great energy – outstanding.

From 50 year old vines. Lovely herbal character, and those grippy tannins. Excellent length and finesse, good juice and dark fruit alongside red berries. Corton is a huge success in 2018.

In 2005 Etienne managed to buy 1.37 hectares of the prized Les Malconsorts vineyard in Vosne. Spice and mineral, there’s vibrancy and intense yet surprisingly cool fruit here. Delicate and incredibly well balanced, one of the best Malconsorts you’ll find.

De Montille hold just 0.29 hectares of this sprawling grand cru. Spicy and opulent, such energy and wonderful depth and darkness of fruit. Nice bitterness here, plenty of lively fruit, with finesse and texture.

From 50 year old vines. Lovely herbal character, and those grippy tannins. Excellent length and finesse, good juice and dark fruit alongside red berries. Corton is a huge success in 2018.

In 2005 Etienne managed to buy 1.37 hectares of the prized Les Malconsorts vineyard in Vosne. Spice and mineral, there’s vibrancy and intense yet surprisingly cool fruit here. Delicate and incredibly well balanced, one of the best Malconsorts you’ll find.

Les Rugiens-Bas has long been a candidate for elevation to Grand Cru status, and was Hubert’s favourite wine. Very pure, and lovely nervous energy, amazing texture, serious earthy notes, dark berry fruit, and such a sense of nobility and focus. Iron oxide and great energy – outstanding.

Probably the finest Beaune vineyard, in the 19th century it was seen as a Tête de Cuvée, the top level of the côte’s wines. Two thirds of the vines here are over 55-60 years old. Saline and impressively deep and textured fruit, this is always one of our favourite wines here. Overlooked at your peril.

Easternmost part of the Corton Charlemagne vineyard. No afternoon sun allows freshness to be maintained.There’s real intensity here, with notes of fresh hazelnuts, silky fruit, and minerality that grows in the palate. This is a really thrilling wine.

When he purchased his Malconsorts parcel in 2005, Etienne separated the section of the vineyard that forms a small enclave within the grand cru La Tâche, and decided to bottle it separately, naming it after his mother. Inky and voluminous, this is remarkable. A lesson in balance of power, concentration, and finesse. It lasts an age.

From 50 year old vines. Lovely herbal character, and those grippy tannins. Excellent length and finesse, good juice and dark fruit alongside red berries. Corton is a huge success in 2018.

From the middle of the slope, from vines 45 years old which Brian says act like they’re 75 years old, given how little fruit they yield. This is a wonderfully fragrant, energetic Volnay, that shows the best of this stunning village.

Le Cailleret abuts Montrachet on the Puligny side. From 70 year old and 65 year old vines. Intense and smoky reduction, plenty of small fruit, and outstanding energy. There’s a sense of focus here, with silky acidity, fine delicacy, and a finish that lasts for ages. Outstanding.

The feather in the cap, the monopole of the estate. Unfurling and layered, notes of chalk and wild flowers, and blood orange. Raspberry essence swirls with perfectly balanced tannins. Bravo.

The baby Fèves, this remains one of Burgundy’s best buys - particularly in a vintage like 2018. Finesse and structure, and really feel the limestone. Nervy and long, and surprisingly expressive. Brilliant for the price.

So fine and lemon oil, delicate and floral with so much purity. Very saline and driven, with plenty of energy and nice concentration of citrus. Very well put together: again an absolute belter, and awesome value for money.

Very floral on the nose. Quite delicate and fine, with plenty of balance, and great length. Very mineral, saline and tangy on the finish. Very Puligny, with excellent balance.

They only made two barrels in 2018. Intense, soaring aromatics and amazing purity here; so much lemon oil, grapefruit, oyster shell and weight on the palate. This is spectacular: flavours unfurl, great intensity and balance, and so much purity. Very finely judged, and very long.

Very floral and pure on the nose, sea spray and wild flowers. There’s very fine acidity with conference pears and lovely purity. Really nice integration, beautiful balance and lovely length and elegance. Very Chassagne, it’s focussed and driven with elegance.

This Puligny-based producer makes a superb Meursault from this steep site, tucked up in the cooler part of the village. The chalky soils make for a racy wine, typical of the Olivier Leflaive style, but with the breadth and savoury weight of classic Meursault.

A blend of Les Casses Têtes with Les Murgers de Monthélie, bottled that way since 1996. Floral and fruit, with precision but also richness. Very linear on the long, mouthwatering finish.

From vineyards in the communes of Meursault and Puligny, this remains one of the benchmarks for Bourgogne. Very driven and phenolic, there’s orange blossom and lemon oil, and lovely length, too.