August Bank Holiday Cellar Raids: Day One

Alain Graillot has long reigned as Crozes-Hermitage’s most respected grower. His sons Maxime and Antoine now run the ship and are making Crozes par excellence. Their Crozes is sweetly fruited, with excellent depth. It always sits in the red spectrum of fruit, where all the best Crozes find themselves. It has structure, but also an effortless tenderness, thanks perhaps to its whole bunch fruit (the influence of Alain’s training at Domaine Dujac?).

This is the second of the domaine’s signature cuvées (the other is Cornas Les Chailles). It comes from the old vines planted further up the slopes at altitudes ranging from 250-400m. The wine shows old vine intensity, twinned with the precision of the 2021 vintage.

This is one of two signature reds at the domaine (the other being Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes). Les Chailles is tight and firm in its youth, but floral aromatics open up with some aeration, promising this will start drinking well from early on.

This is a wine that’s overlooked at your peril. From a number of plots, such as Combe, Les Saveaux, Cayret, Les Mazards, Chaillot and Chapuzes, this is the essence of Cornas. Baked earth and rusty notes, with a wonderful deep core of fruit, this is long,

Boxler's Pinot Gris Brand is, in our opinion, the greatest expression of the grape in the world. In warmer years it is dramatic and full-bodied. The 2022 has the genltest influence of some residual sugar - almost inperceptable, but just enough to give it a rounded length. It dances bwtee sweet, ripe peachy fruit and a pithy, lightly bitter length, with crystallised ginger spice in the background. A soft, glossy acidity gives it depth and grace. This will reward after just two or three years in bottle, evolving into a gastronomic wine par excellence. Dry (5g/l).

Boxler's Pinot Gris Brand is, in our opinion, the greatest expression of the grape in the world. In warmer years it is dramatic and full-bodied, and in 2021 the wine shows a fabulous balance between sweet, ripe peachy fruit and a pithy, fleshy length, with crystallised ginger spice in the background. A soft, glossy acidity gives it depth and grace. This will reward after just two or three years in bottle, evolving into a gastronomic wine par excellence.

This is the calling card of the Boxler domaine. Sommerberg is the steep 19 hectare grand cru vineyard that rises up dramatically behind the village of Niedermorschwihr, where the Boxler cellar lies. Indeed, Sommerberg is synonymous with Boxler: this is the most famous and celebrated iteration of the vineyard. It typically has drive and tension, and in 2021 it has mouthwatering minerality, and a sappy, almost fragrant salinity. Concentrated yet weightless. This is a Riesling to hold onto for a few years and enjoy as it gains in stature with age.

Jean Boxler's late harvest sweet wines have a cult following. They are only made in years, like 2020, that lend themselves to the style, and offer immense ageing potential. The residual sugar here gives the wine unctuous weight and power, while it remains floral and vibrant. Sommerberg is such a fine vineyard that even when producing sweet wines, its mineral tension is always on display, particuarly through the conduit of Riesling. Medium (45g/l)

Jean Boxler's late harvest sweet wines have a cult following. They are only made in years, like 2020, that lend themselves to the style, and offer immense ageing potential. The residual sugar here gives the wine unctuous weight and power, while it remains floral and vibrant. Pinot Gris is staggeringly complex and profound in Jean Boxler's hands. This will be magnificent. Medium (70g/l)

This is packed with juicy concentration, with an impressive tension. This is terroir-driven Sauvignon Blanc, with the texture and balance to age well, though it’s probably too enticing to ignore right now. Impressive length.

Clape is a defining name in the Cornas appellation, with both historic fame and present-day cache. Today, Olivier Clape is making terrific wines from his family's historic vineyards. His flagship Cornas cuvée is a blend of parcels, including a 1.2 hectare parcel of the celebrated Reynard vineyard. The 2019 is savoury and tight, demanding at least a decade in bottle.

Despite 2022 being a dry vintage, Battenfeld-Spanier have created a delicious wine that is juicy and concentrated and displays wonderful pithiness and saltiness.

This is a focused wine that displays great minerality and focus. The acidity is nervy and the aromas are steely and flinty with a lime citrus core and a delicious concentration and length.

Blossom, lemon verbena and grapefruit notes combine with a salty and crushed stone character on the palate. The acidity is piercing and the core is tightly wound. This is a serious Riesling that has so much to offer

One of the iconic wines of the Rhône Valley. In 2021 Hommage à Jacques Perrin has a lifted red fruit profile, in addition to the more typical brambley, black plum fruit flavours. There's a reticence and delicacy at this early stage, also reflecting this more restrained vintage. There's plenty of freshness and earthy tones towards the finish, and approachable, rounded tannins.

This Savennières has a brilliant attack. It is pithy and weighty, with plenty of energy. It grown on sandy soils over schist bedrock and the resulting wine is vinous and saline. A little oak gives structure to the palate and the finish shows ripe, concentrated fruit.

Only made in the better vintages Jean-Paul thinks around 10% of the wine this year has gone into Cuvée Félix, from their 27 plots across 16 hectares. It contains 30% Mourvèdre which lends a musky, cool blackcurrant character. Finely packed tannins coat the mouth and there's a lot of dark fruit concentration on the palate. Floral hints and fresh acidity builds to a fine finish, this should be fantastic with a few years in bottle.

This parcel is quintessential Chinon: at the top of the hill overlooking the Loire river, its flood plains, and the charming eponymous town. It is named after the huge and statuesque oak tree that grows at its edge. Its excellent position affords it good ripening and drainage. The soil here is clay and sandstone, and produces a wine with a pretty red fruit structure, and some distinctively spicy notes. In 2020 its ripeness and freshness chime in harmony. The wine has a lighter frame than that of the Varenne and Dioterie, and a long, elegant finish.

Stéphane Riffault, one of Sancerre's most talented winemakers with demand to match, makes rosé in only tiny amounts. We are thrilled to have a small parcel of the delicious 2022. Sancerre rosé is made from 100% Pinot Noir and this iteration is vinous and long, with a mineral backbone, as if chiselled from Sancerre's limestone soils, and a juiciness from the sunny conditions of the year. Unlike Stéphane's whites which demand a little ageing, this is ready to drink already, though do not underestimate its ability to age.

Superb old vine Grenache and surely one of the wines of the vintage. Traditionally made, raised in large oak foudres, this wine has layer upon layer of fresh and dried fruit interlaced with savoury elements such as Ibérico ham and white pepper. Very long and complex.

This is Clusel Roch’s classic blend. It comes from a range of vineyards across the Côte Brune, including Le Plomb, Montmains, and Bas de Coteau. Spicy and graphite-textured, with floral notes, and some intense black olive and cassis notes beneath. A classic Côte-Rôtie.

La Viallière is one of the great sites of the Côte Brune. Its mid-slope position and high proportion of gravelly stones aid drainage and produce wines of great finesse and voluptuous depth. This was the highlight of the Clusel Roch cellar in 2021 - lovely notes of torrefaction give the sweet fruit a toasty charm. It is a warm site, and usually produces the roundest, richest wine here. In 2021 it is on song: the freshness and elegant balance of the vintage showing it at its best.

This cuvée is always the most powerful in the Clusel Roch stable, and even though the frame of all the 2021s is a little slimmer than recent warmer vintages, this still shows plenty of density and concentration. It comes from vines planted in 1935 by Guillaume Clusel’s great-grandfather. The parcel sits high up, above La Viallière, and makes a complex and structured wine.

Coming from a range of vineyards, including Le Plomb, Montmains, and Bas de Coteau, Les Schistes is the benchmark wine from Clusel-Roch. Spicy and textured, with lots of floral character and a blood orange note, it’s an elegant, refined, impressive Côte-R