August Bank Holiday Cellar Raids: Day One

Alain Graillot has long reigned as Crozes-Hermitage’s most respected grower. His sons Maxime and Antoine now run the ship and are making Crozes par excellence. Their Crozes is sweetly fruited, with excellent depth. It always sits in the red spectrum of fruit, where all the best Crozes find themselves. It has structure, but also an effortless tenderness, thanks perhaps to its whole bunch fruit (the influence of Alain’s training at Domaine Dujac?).

This is the second of the domaine’s signature cuvées (the other is Cornas Les Chailles). It comes from the old vines planted further up the slopes at altitudes ranging from 250-400m. The wine shows old vine intensity, twinned with the precision of the 2021 vintage.

This is one of two signature reds at the domaine (the other being Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes). Les Chailles is tight and firm in its youth, but floral aromatics open up with some aeration, promising this will start drinking well from early on.

This is a wine that’s overlooked at your peril. From a number of plots, such as Combe, Les Saveaux, Cayret, Les Mazards, Chaillot and Chapuzes, this is the essence of Cornas. Baked earth and rusty notes, with a wonderful deep core of fruit, this is long,

Alain Voge’s pithy sparkling wine, Les Bulles d’Alain, is unlike anything else we have on our list. It is lively, dry, refreshing, and refined. If you’re in the mood for bubbles, but don’t want the weight of a Champagne, this is the perfect option, and a smart price too. It’s a very good example of why Saint-Péray has built its renown for sparkling wines.

This is the second of the domaine’s signature cuvées (the other is Cornas Les Chailles). It comes from, unsurprisingly, the old vines which are planted further up the slopes at altitudes ranging from 250-400m. Small amounts of whole bunch fruit (20%) add freshness and silkiness. In 2020 it benefits further from fruit that usually goes into a single vineyard cuvée, La Chapelle St Pierre, but because volumes were so small, it has been blended in here, adding extra lift and volume to the fruit. This wine shows superb old vine intensity, with density and precision in its notes of tapenade and cassis.

Boxler's Pinot Gris Brand is, in our opinion, the greatest expression of the grape in the world. In warmer years it is dramatic and full-bodied. The 2022 has the genltest influence of some residual sugar - almost inperceptable, but just enough to give it a rounded length. It dances bwtee sweet, ripe peachy fruit and a pithy, lightly bitter length, with crystallised ginger spice in the background. A soft, glossy acidity gives it depth and grace. This will reward after just two or three years in bottle, evolving into a gastronomic wine par excellence. Dry (5g/l).

Boxler's Pinot Gris Brand is, in our opinion, the greatest expression of the grape in the world. In warmer years it is dramatic and full-bodied, and in 2021 the wine shows a fabulous balance between sweet, ripe peachy fruit and a pithy, fleshy length, with crystallised ginger spice in the background. A soft, glossy acidity gives it depth and grace. This will reward after just two or three years in bottle, evolving into a gastronomic wine par excellence.

This is the calling card of the Boxler domaine. Sommerberg is the steep 19 hectare grand cru vineyard that rises up dramatically behind the village of Niedermorschwihr, where the Boxler cellar lies. Indeed, Sommerberg is synonymous with Boxler: this is the most famous and celebrated iteration of the vineyard. It typically has drive and tension, and in 2021 it has mouthwatering minerality, and a sappy, almost fragrant salinity. Concentrated yet weightless. This is a Riesling to hold onto for a few years and enjoy as it gains in stature with age.

Jean Boxler's late harvest sweet wines have a cult following. They are only made in years, like 2020, that lend themselves to the style, and offer immense ageing potential. The residual sugar here gives the wine unctuous weight and power, while it remains floral and vibrant. Sommerberg is such a fine vineyard that even when producing sweet wines, its mineral tension is always on display, particuarly through the conduit of Riesling. Medium (45g/l)

Jean Boxler's late harvest sweet wines have a cult following. They are only made in years, like 2020, that lend themselves to the style, and offer immense ageing potential. The residual sugar here gives the wine unctuous weight and power, while it remains floral and vibrant. Pinot Gris is staggeringly complex and profound in Jean Boxler's hands. This will be magnificent. Medium (70g/l)

This is one of the great gems of our list: a top class grower’s signature wine. Jean Boxler’s attention to detail in the vineyard is revered by neighbours, and his hard work results in wines of thrilling concentration and purity. This Riesling is zesty and energetic, brimming with aromas of fresh lime juice and white flowers. It will outpay most other Alsace grands crus, and its ageing potential should not be underestimated. In 2022 it's a notch up on any previous vintage, as it sees Jean blending in the young vines of his Sommerberg grand cru for the first time, giving the wine more amplitude and length. Dry

Brand is one of the great Alsace grand cru sites. In Jean Boxler’s hands, this famous granite site does not disappoint. Compared to its cellar neighbours, it is usually the most forward and approachable of the Boxler grands crus. The 2022 shows sensational energy, with tension and drive. The palate bursts with a sumptuous weight. Perfectly balanced, and capable of reaching a fine old age. Bone dry (1g/l).

More than any other variety, Gewürztraminer is a love-it-or-hate it grape. But anyone who claims to not like it is missing out when it comes to this wine. Its weight and aromatic perfume make it a brilliant match for one of the toughest foods to pair with wine: oily fish, particularly smoked salmon. It works when it’s young, and is even better with some bottle age. Spicy, floral, silky, and satisfying. Off-dry (30g/l).

The affinity between the granite-soiled Brand vineyard and the Gewürztraminer grape is well-recognised. This cuvée is a world-beater in terms of class and restraint: unusual descriptors for the flamboyant, aromatic variety. The palate has signature Boxler texture: silky, supple persistence. It is delicious already but will transcend into hyperbole with age.

Brand is one of the great Alsace grand cru sites. In Jean Boxler’s hands, this famous granite site does not disappoint. Compared to its cellar neighbours, it is usually the most forward and approachable of the Boxler grands crus. The 2020 has a heightened minerality, with tension on the nose, and enticing orange blossom notes. The palate bursts with fresh clementine juice and a sumptuous weight. Perfectly balanced, and capable of reaching a fine old age.

Jean Boxler's late harvest sweet wines have a cult following. They are only made in years, like 2018, that lend themselves to the style, and offer immense ageing potential. The residual sugar here gives the wine unctuous weight and power, while it remains floral and vibrant. More than any other variety, Gewürztraminer is a love-it-or-hate-it grape. But anyone who claims to not like it is missing out when it comes to this wine. There is really nothing quite like it, particularly for those patient enough to cellar it. Medium (70g/l)

This is packed with juicy concentration, with an impressive tension. This is terroir-driven Sauvignon Blanc, with the texture and balance to age well, though it’s probably too enticing to ignore right now. Impressive length.

Clape is a defining name in the Cornas appellation, with both historic fame and present-day cache. Today, Olivier Clape is making terrific wines from his family's historic vineyards. His flagship Cornas cuvée is a blend of parcels, including a 1.2 hectare parcel of the celebrated Reynard vineyard. The 2019 is savoury and tight, demanding at least a decade in bottle.

Despite 2022 being a dry vintage, Battenfeld-Spanier have created a delicious wine that is juicy and concentrated and displays wonderful pithiness and saltiness.

This is a focused wine that displays great minerality and focus. The acidity is nervy and the aromas are steely and flinty with a lime citrus core and a delicious concentration and length.

Blossom, lemon verbena and grapefruit notes combine with a salty and crushed stone character on the palate. The acidity is piercing and the core is tightly wound. This is a serious Riesling that has so much to offer

This was our top pick of Yves Cuilleron’s impressive range of Côte Rôties. It feels vibrant and fresh, with a moderate frame and perfumed length. 10% Viognier is in the blend here, with the Syrah grown on the gneiss and granite soils of Bassenon lieu dit.

One of the iconic wines of the Rhône Valley. In 2021 Hommage à Jacques Perrin has a lifted red fruit profile, in addition to the more typical brambley, black plum fruit flavours. There's a reticence and delicacy at this early stage, also reflecting this more restrained vintage. There's plenty of freshness and earthy tones towards the finish, and approachable, rounded tannins.