August Bank Holiday Cellar Raids: Day One

Alain Graillot has long reigned as Crozes-Hermitage’s most respected grower. His sons Maxime and Antoine now run the ship and are making Crozes par excellence. Their Crozes is sweetly fruited, with excellent depth. It always sits in the red spectrum of fruit, where all the best Crozes find themselves. It has structure, but also an effortless tenderness, thanks perhaps to its whole bunch fruit (the influence of Alain’s training at Domaine Dujac?).

This is the second of the domaine’s signature cuvées (the other is Cornas Les Chailles). It comes from the old vines planted further up the slopes at altitudes ranging from 250-400m. The wine shows old vine intensity, twinned with the precision of the 2021 vintage.

This is one of two signature reds at the domaine (the other being Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes). Les Chailles is tight and firm in its youth, but floral aromatics open up with some aeration, promising this will start drinking well from early on.

This is a wine that’s overlooked at your peril. From a number of plots, such as Combe, Les Saveaux, Cayret, Les Mazards, Chaillot and Chapuzes, this is the essence of Cornas. Baked earth and rusty notes, with a wonderful deep core of fruit, this is long,

Alain Voge’s pithy sparkling wine, Les Bulles d’Alain, is unlike anything else we have on our list. It is lively, dry, refreshing, and refined. If you’re in the mood for bubbles, but don’t want the weight of a Champagne, this is the perfect option, and a smart price too. It’s a very good example of why Saint-Péray has built its renown for sparkling wines.

This is the second of the domaine’s signature cuvées (the other is Cornas Les Chailles). It comes from, unsurprisingly, the old vines which are planted further up the slopes at altitudes ranging from 250-400m. Small amounts of whole bunch fruit (20%) add freshness and silkiness. In 2020 it benefits further from fruit that usually goes into a single vineyard cuvée, La Chapelle St Pierre, but because volumes were so small, it has been blended in here, adding extra lift and volume to the fruit. This wine shows superb old vine intensity, with density and precision in its notes of tapenade and cassis.

Boxler's Pinot Gris Brand is, in our opinion, the greatest expression of the grape in the world. In warmer years it is dramatic and full-bodied. The 2022 has the genltest influence of some residual sugar - almost inperceptable, but just enough to give it a rounded length. It dances bwtee sweet, ripe peachy fruit and a pithy, lightly bitter length, with crystallised ginger spice in the background. A soft, glossy acidity gives it depth and grace. This will reward after just two or three years in bottle, evolving into a gastronomic wine par excellence. Dry (5g/l).

Boxler's Pinot Gris Brand is, in our opinion, the greatest expression of the grape in the world. In warmer years it is dramatic and full-bodied, and in 2021 the wine shows a fabulous balance between sweet, ripe peachy fruit and a pithy, fleshy length, with crystallised ginger spice in the background. A soft, glossy acidity gives it depth and grace. This will reward after just two or three years in bottle, evolving into a gastronomic wine par excellence.

This is the calling card of the Boxler domaine. Sommerberg is the steep 19 hectare grand cru vineyard that rises up dramatically behind the village of Niedermorschwihr, where the Boxler cellar lies. Indeed, Sommerberg is synonymous with Boxler: this is the most famous and celebrated iteration of the vineyard. It typically has drive and tension, and in 2021 it has mouthwatering minerality, and a sappy, almost fragrant salinity. Concentrated yet weightless. This is a Riesling to hold onto for a few years and enjoy as it gains in stature with age.

Jean Boxler's late harvest sweet wines have a cult following. They are only made in years, like 2020, that lend themselves to the style, and offer immense ageing potential. The residual sugar here gives the wine unctuous weight and power, while it remains floral and vibrant. Sommerberg is such a fine vineyard that even when producing sweet wines, its mineral tension is always on display, particuarly through the conduit of Riesling. Medium (45g/l)

Jean Boxler's late harvest sweet wines have a cult following. They are only made in years, like 2020, that lend themselves to the style, and offer immense ageing potential. The residual sugar here gives the wine unctuous weight and power, while it remains floral and vibrant. Pinot Gris is staggeringly complex and profound in Jean Boxler's hands. This will be magnificent. Medium (70g/l)

This is one of the great gems of our list: a top class grower’s signature wine. Jean Boxler’s attention to detail in the vineyard is revered by neighbours, and his hard work results in wines of thrilling concentration and purity. This Riesling is zesty and energetic, brimming with aromas of fresh lime juice and white flowers. It will outpay most other Alsace grands crus, and its ageing potential should not be underestimated. In 2022 it's a notch up on any previous vintage, as it sees Jean blending in the young vines of his Sommerberg grand cru for the first time, giving the wine more amplitude and length. Dry

Brand is one of the great Alsace grand cru sites. In Jean Boxler’s hands, this famous granite site does not disappoint. Compared to its cellar neighbours, it is usually the most forward and approachable of the Boxler grands crus. The 2022 shows sensational energy, with tension and drive. The palate bursts with a sumptuous weight. Perfectly balanced, and capable of reaching a fine old age. Bone dry (1g/l).

More than any other variety, Gewürztraminer is a love-it-or-hate it grape. But anyone who claims to not like it is missing out when it comes to this wine. Its weight and aromatic perfume make it a brilliant match for one of the toughest foods to pair with wine: oily fish, particularly smoked salmon. It works when it’s young, and is even better with some bottle age. Spicy, floral, silky, and satisfying. Off-dry (30g/l).

The affinity between the granite-soiled Brand vineyard and the Gewürztraminer grape is well-recognised. This cuvée is a world-beater in terms of class and restraint: unusual descriptors for the flamboyant, aromatic variety. The palate has signature Boxler texture: silky, supple persistence. It is delicious already but will transcend into hyperbole with age.

Brand is one of the great Alsace grand cru sites. In Jean Boxler’s hands, this famous granite site does not disappoint. Compared to its cellar neighbours, it is usually the most forward and approachable of the Boxler grands crus. The 2020 has a heightened minerality, with tension on the nose, and enticing orange blossom notes. The palate bursts with fresh clementine juice and a sumptuous weight. Perfectly balanced, and capable of reaching a fine old age.

Jean Boxler's late harvest sweet wines have a cult following. They are only made in years, like 2018, that lend themselves to the style, and offer immense ageing potential. The residual sugar here gives the wine unctuous weight and power, while it remains floral and vibrant. More than any other variety, Gewürztraminer is a love-it-or-hate-it grape. But anyone who claims to not like it is missing out when it comes to this wine. There is really nothing quite like it, particularly for those patient enough to cellar it. Medium (70g/l)

This is packed with juicy concentration, with an impressive tension. This is terroir-driven Sauvignon Blanc, with the texture and balance to age well, though it’s probably too enticing to ignore right now. Impressive length.

Clape is a defining name in the Cornas appellation, with both historic fame and present-day cache. Today, Olivier Clape is making terrific wines from his family's historic vineyards. His flagship Cornas cuvée is a blend of parcels, including a 1.2 hectare parcel of the celebrated Reynard vineyard. The 2019 is savoury and tight, demanding at least a decade in bottle.

Despite 2022 being a dry vintage, Battenfeld-Spanier have created a delicious wine that is juicy and concentrated and displays wonderful pithiness and saltiness.

This is a focused wine that displays great minerality and focus. The acidity is nervy and the aromas are steely and flinty with a lime citrus core and a delicious concentration and length.

Blossom, lemon verbena and grapefruit notes combine with a salty and crushed stone character on the palate. The acidity is piercing and the core is tightly wound. This is a serious Riesling that has so much to offer

This was our top pick of Yves Cuilleron’s impressive range of Côte Rôties. It feels vibrant and fresh, with a moderate frame and perfumed length. 10% Viognier is in the blend here, with the Syrah grown on the gneiss and granite soils of Bassenon lieu dit.

One of the iconic wines of the Rhône Valley. In 2021 Hommage à Jacques Perrin has a lifted red fruit profile, in addition to the more typical brambley, black plum fruit flavours. There's a reticence and delicacy at this early stage, also reflecting this more restrained vintage. There's plenty of freshness and earthy tones towards the finish, and approachable, rounded tannins.

This is one of the most celebrated blends of the southern Rhône, notable for its high proportion of Mourvèdre. This variety gives it cool cassis fruit, structure and length. Grenache adds sweet berry tones and a supple texture, and Syrah a dark, powerful concentration, with liquorice intensity. The 2021 is pure and charming, with bright, juicy fruit and a lithe, refreshing feel.

This unique and exciting wine - produced from 140-150 year old Clairette vines - was not produced in 2019, so it was with great excitement that we celebrate its triumphant return in 2020. It is waxy and intense, with a leesy, savoury character combined with saline depth and notes of dried honey and summer flowers. It is without question the greatest Clairette you will try.

This Savennières has a brilliant attack. It is pithy and weighty, with plenty of energy. It grown on sandy soils over schist bedrock and the resulting wine is vinous and saline. A little oak gives structure to the palate and the finish shows ripe, concentrated fruit.

Only made in the better vintages Jean-Paul thinks around 10% of the wine this year has gone into Cuvée Félix, from their 27 plots across 16 hectares. It contains 30% Mourvèdre which lends a musky, cool blackcurrant character. Finely packed tannins coat the mouth and there's a lot of dark fruit concentration on the palate. Floral hints and fresh acidity builds to a fine finish, this should be fantastic with a few years in bottle.

This is a special cuvée made from old vines, with a high proportion of Mourvèdre in the blend (30%). In 2018 Jean-Paul couldn’t make this cuvée as volumes were so reduced by mildew, so 2019 sees a happy return. It is very dense and peppery, with some wild garrigue herbs entwined in the kirsch fruit.

This parcel is quintessential Chinon: at the top of the hill overlooking the Loire river, its flood plains, and the charming eponymous town. It is named after the huge and statuesque oak tree that grows at its edge. Its excellent position affords it good ripening and drainage. The soil here is clay and sandstone, and produces a wine with a pretty red fruit structure, and some distinctively spicy notes. In 2020 its ripeness and freshness chime in harmony. The wine has a lighter frame than that of the Varenne and Dioterie, and a long, elegant finish.

Stéphane Riffault, one of Sancerre's most talented winemakers with demand to match, makes rosé in only tiny amounts. We are thrilled to have a small parcel of the delicious 2022. Sancerre rosé is made from 100% Pinot Noir and this iteration is vinous and long, with a mineral backbone, as if chiselled from Sancerre's limestone soils, and a juiciness from the sunny conditions of the year. Unlike Stéphane's whites which demand a little ageing, this is ready to drink already, though do not underestimate its ability to age.

Superb old vine Grenache and surely one of the wines of the vintage. Traditionally made, raised in large oak foudres, this wine has layer upon layer of fresh and dried fruit interlaced with savoury elements such as Ibérico ham and white pepper. Very long and complex.

This is Clusel Roch’s classic blend. It comes from a range of vineyards across the Côte Brune, including Le Plomb, Montmains, and Bas de Coteau. Spicy and graphite-textured, with floral notes, and some intense black olive and cassis notes beneath. A classic Côte-Rôtie.

La Viallière is one of the great sites of the Côte Brune. Its mid-slope position and high proportion of gravelly stones aid drainage and produce wines of great finesse and voluptuous depth. This was the highlight of the Clusel Roch cellar in 2021 - lovely notes of torrefaction give the sweet fruit a toasty charm. It is a warm site, and usually produces the roundest, richest wine here. In 2021 it is on song: the freshness and elegant balance of the vintage showing it at its best.

This cuvée is always the most powerful in the Clusel Roch stable, and even though the frame of all the 2021s is a little slimmer than recent warmer vintages, this still shows plenty of density and concentration. It comes from vines planted in 1935 by Guillaume Clusel’s great-grandfather. The parcel sits high up, above La Viallière, and makes a complex and structured wine.

Coming from a range of vineyards, including Le Plomb, Montmains, and Bas de Coteau, Les Schistes is the benchmark wine from Clusel-Roch. Spicy and textured, with lots of floral character and a blood orange note, it’s an elegant, refined, impressive Côte-R

This vineyard was planted in 1945, and the old vines are treated with huge respect in the Courbis cellar, where Laurent applies a generous 50% new oak to the wine, that is more than matched by the natural density of fruit. This is a big, powerful, broad-shouldered wine. Its 250m elevation helps it retain freshening acidity, which offers a great foundation to the statuesque density of the wine.

This vineyard was planted in 1945, and the old vines are treated with huge respect in the Courbis cellar. It has been aged in 60% new oak, and will demand more time in bottle than the other Courbis wines. There is a natural density to the fruit, and the wine shows its calibre in a long, powerful finish.

This bursts with green pineapple perfume. Both exotic and vibrant. It has a silky, textured palate. It comes from a single vineyard in the south of the appellation, in St Pierre de Boeuf. The east/north-east aspect makes this site cooler than many, and its granite and gneiss soils results in superb mineral tension to the wine.

This comes from parcels in the south of the appellation, in St Pierre de Boeuf. The east/north-east aspect makes this site cooler than many, and its granite and gneiss soils results in superb mineral tension to the wine.

This is one of the finest sites of the Côte Blonde, and it produces a wine of huge elegance and subtlety, although you’ll want to tuck it away for a few years before pulling the cork.

This is one of the finest sites of the Côte Blonde. Its depth of fruit is clear, even in the 2021 vintage that tends towards lighted, more restrained wines. Supporting new oak gives it spice and succulence. Of all the Garon cuvées, this will benefit the most from some time in the cellar, though it should drink well from just 3 to 4 years.

This is a fantastic site on the Côte Brune, shared between just three growers. The vines were replanted in 1980 and 2001, and their youthful vigour produces a juicy wine, with a rounded balance. 30% whole bunch and 30% new oak add silkiness and depth.

This fantastic site on the Côte Brune is shared between just three growers. The Garons’ vines were replanted in 1980 and 2001, and their youthful vigour produces a juicy wine, with a rounded balance. 30% whole bunch and 30% new oak add silkiness and depth.

This comes from four neighbouring lieux-dits on the Côte Blonde: Lancement, La Triote, Le Combard and Le Mollard. They share a high proportion of white schist in their soils, making for an intense and savoury expression. It is glossy, black-fruited, with a fresh, tense length.

This comes from four neighbouring lieux-dits on the Côte Blonde: Lancement, La Triote, Le Combard and Le Mollard. They share a high proportion of white schist in their soils, making for an intense, savoury, and long expression. It has 20% whole bunch, and the fruit is glossy and deep.

This is one of the finest sites of the Côte Blonde, and it produces a wine of huge elegance and subtlety, although you’ll want to tuck it away for a few years before pulling the cork.

This Muntada is a showstopper. There’s a thrilling wildness and energy here, with bright, pure fruit and sweet leather and spice. Predominantly Grenache and Carignan (from 125 year old vines), there’s superb concentration and complexity here.

This is another top cuvée from Domaine Giraud, named in honour of François and Marie’s father, made from vines planted in 1901 in the sandy soils next to Château Rayas.

This is, as ever, a sensational cuvée. 100% Grenache from 100 year old vines.Wonderful aromas of violets and lavender combine with pure black fruit notes and delicate nuances of rosemary and thyme. Morello cherry, damson and plums wrap around silky soft tannins, layers of mocha and sweet vanilla spice. Complex and precise with a wonderful freshness on the finish, this is a stylish and sophisticated wine that is not to be missed.
(Given 93-96 points in the Wine Advocate, Robert Parker)

Another top cuvee, made from vines planted in 1901 in Pignam and La Crau, on sand, it’s named after their father Pierre, not a reference to stone. Amazing lift and energy, so much texture and intensity, silky and lovely tannins, mouthwatering finish. Brilliant.

This, one of their top cuvees, is made from Grenache planted in 1901 and with 60 year old Syrah. The age of the vines makes a vibrant wine, with tapenade, anise and crunchy cherry fruit. Stunning.

This superb wine from Domaine Giraud comes from 50-80 year old vines grown across the various soil types found in the appellation. There is so much freshness and energy in this 2019, bursting with salty red berries. One of the best examples of its type.

80% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre from 50-80 year old vines on a mix of terroirs. Floral and elegant, and fine, intense and dynamic. Very juicy, with wonderful purity and energy, and there’s a liquorice character, too, with hints of roasted fennel.

This tiny cuvée is the jewel in the crown at this estate. It’s tough for any young domaine to buy vines in Côte-Rôtie these days, and only the very brave attempt it. Graeme and Julie now have two tiny parcels, and this cuvée has already won them much praise as the new kids to get seriously excited about. The 2021 continues their strong form. It is restrained, tightly coiled, and serious. It will need more time than the rest of their wines to open up, but will unfurl in magnificent splendour.

This is Syrah wearing its Pinot cloak. The Kamaka is the wine that needs the most explanation in the Bott cellar. Seyssuel, on the other side of the river to Côte-Rôtie, is an appellation on the march. There are hopes that it will be elevated to full cru status within a matter of years. Here, the schist and gneiss soils glisten in the sunlight; there’s no granite on this side of the river, The Syrah that grows here is floral and pinot-esque, with an elegant texture and a spicy, salty undertow. Kamata is the Maori word for rock or stone, and a nod to Graeme’s Kiwi origins. Much more than a curiosity

This tiny cuvée is the jewel in the crown at this estate. Whilst it might be easy for a young domaine to buy vineyards in Seyssuel, it is not so easy in Côte-Rôtie. But Graeme and Julie do have two tiny parcels, and this cuvée has already won them much praise as newcomers to get seriously excited about. Impeccably balanced Côte-Rôtie from the outstanding 2020 vintage.

This is Syrah wearing its Pinot cloak. The Kamaka is the wine that needs the most explanation in the Bott cellar. Seyssuel, on the other side of the river to Côte-Rôtie, is an appellation on the march. There are hopes that it will be elevated to full cru status within a matter of years. Here, the schist and gneiss soils glisten in the sunlight; there’s no granite on this side of the river. The Syrah that grows here is floral and pinot-esque, with an elegant texture and a spicy, salty undertow. Kamaka is the Maori word for rock or stone, and a nod to Graeme’s Kiwi origins. Much more than a curiosity.

A first swirl of this in the glass and you’ll fall for it. It’s a juicy, pure, light-footed, and expressive Syrah that comes from vines planted just beyond the limits of the Côte-Rôtie appellation. The 2021 is fragrant and open, with vivid cherry and cranberry notes. There’s a deliciously leafy freshness, with the scent of peonies woven through the fruit. Fresh, bright, and appetising. Stock up. This has fast become a Lay & Wheeler favourite.

This plot is in fact Graeme and Julie’s garden, and was where their whole project began. It sits between Côteau de Chéry and Château Grillet, below their house in Vérin. The wine is made in tiny quantities and shows a step up in concentration and tension on the straight Condrieu. It is fresh and refined, coming in at 12.5%.

Each year we see the Botts refine their style, and this 2022 Condrieu is an exciting step forward. They like to keep freshness in their Condrieu, rather than seeking richness and weight, and so they react quickly and pick early. This 2022 comes in at a poised 12.8% abv, giving it freshness and precision in spite of the warm growing season. It is poised and energetic, vibrant and lively, with beautiful aromatic appeal. The granitic soils of Condrieu give the wine minerality and freshness alongside natural ripeness. It should be superb after a year in bottle.

This fresh, bright, early-picked Viognier epitomises Graeme & Julie’s skill at handling this grape. Where their Condrieus are emerging as some of the most interesting in the appellation, this ‘First Flight’ is a great value window onto their style. The vines are grown in granite soils at 300m altitude. This zips across the palate with the natural freshness, and an attractive almond bite on the finish.

A small amount of grapes that go into this wine come from Graeme and Julie's back garden - classified Condrieu terroir, and the kick-starter for building their own domaine. The 2018 is full of sweet, floral, honey notes. The palate is fleshy, clean, and with a silky flow. This is a stunning Condrieu, and indicative of the brilliant talent at this new domaine.

This Pinot is all vinified and aged in stainless steel tank. This method helps capture the variety’s purest fruit, which in this case is ripe raspberries and redcurrants, with a charming minty lift. There’s a subtle graphite note running through the palate. Persistent and delicately light-boded at the same time. Served a little chilled this will be a thirst-quenching delight.

This is Julien’s flagship wine. It is rich and woven-through with ripe tannin and forest berry flavours. It has a silky body and a bright, red-fruit-driven finish.

Pure is 100% Grenache, all from 100 year old vines on sandy soils, very close to Rayas. The result is very intense, and, as the name suggests, pure. Black fruit wrapped in a rich, chocolaty texture and spicy length. It will need time in bottle to weave together, but already impresses.

The domaine might have 15 hectares in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but a wine you shouldn’t miss is this cuvée, from lesser-known Châteauneuf-de-Gadagne just to the south. The name is a nod to their ability to throw off the constraints of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape regulations in this peppery and fragrant wine. It is mainly Grenache with some Mourvèdre, Carignan and Syrah thrown in for good measure.

Pure is 100% Grenache, all from 100 year old vines on sandy soils. The result is very intense, and, as the name suggests, pure. There's tons of black fruit here, surrounded by rich, chocolately textures and spicy flavours. This needs time in bottle to weave together, but already impresses.

The domaine might have 15 hectares in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but a wine you shouldn’t miss is this cuvée, from lesser-known Châteauneuf-de-Gadagne just to the south. The name is a nod to their ability to throw off the constraints of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape regulations in this peppery and fragrant wine. It is mainly Grenache with some Mourvèdre, Carignan and Syrah thrown in for good measure.

Mainly Grenache with some Mourvèdre, Carignan and Syrah, from Châteauneuf-de-Gadagne, an area to the south with a similar profile to Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This is peppery and fine, with wonderful fragrance. A smart buy.

From some of Gigondas' highest vineyards, Thierry Faravel produces a wine of elegance and restraint. 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah make up the blend, which offers fresh-picked violet and crushed red berry fruit. There is much finesse here and, unusually for most Gigondas, a vein of impressive minerality. Very refined and taut, with excellent definition and persistence.

Clos des Cazaux's old vine Vacqueryas offers great value, with elegant peachy fruit, white flowers, salinity and charming freshness. There's no oak but the old vine character lends some delicate spice and texture to the wine.