August Bank Holiday Cellar Raids: Day One

Alain Graillot has long reigned as Crozes-Hermitage’s most respected grower. His sons Maxime and Antoine now run the ship and are making Crozes par excellence. Their Crozes is sweetly fruited, with excellent depth. It always sits in the red spectrum of fruit, where all the best Crozes find themselves. It has structure, but also an effortless tenderness, thanks perhaps to its whole bunch fruit (the influence of Alain’s training at Domaine Dujac?).

This is the second of the domaine’s signature cuvées (the other is Cornas Les Chailles). It comes from the old vines planted further up the slopes at altitudes ranging from 250-400m. The wine shows old vine intensity, twinned with the precision of the 2021 vintage.

This is one of two signature reds at the domaine (the other being Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes). Les Chailles is tight and firm in its youth, but floral aromatics open up with some aeration, promising this will start drinking well from early on.

This is a wine that’s overlooked at your peril. From a number of plots, such as Combe, Les Saveaux, Cayret, Les Mazards, Chaillot and Chapuzes, this is the essence of Cornas. Baked earth and rusty notes, with a wonderful deep core of fruit, this is long,

Alain Voge’s pithy sparkling wine, Les Bulles d’Alain, is unlike anything else we have on our list. It is lively, dry, refreshing, and refined. If you’re in the mood for bubbles, but don’t want the weight of a Champagne, this is the perfect option, and a smart price too. It’s a very good example of why Saint-Péray has built its renown for sparkling wines.

This is the second of the domaine’s signature cuvées (the other is Cornas Les Chailles). It comes from, unsurprisingly, the old vines which are planted further up the slopes at altitudes ranging from 250-400m. Small amounts of whole bunch fruit (20%) add freshness and silkiness. In 2020 it benefits further from fruit that usually goes into a single vineyard cuvée, La Chapelle St Pierre, but because volumes were so small, it has been blended in here, adding extra lift and volume to the fruit. This wine shows superb old vine intensity, with density and precision in its notes of tapenade and cassis.

Boxler's Pinot Gris Brand is, in our opinion, the greatest expression of the grape in the world. In warmer years it is dramatic and full-bodied. The 2022 has the genltest influence of some residual sugar - almost inperceptable, but just enough to give it a rounded length. It dances bwtee sweet, ripe peachy fruit and a pithy, lightly bitter length, with crystallised ginger spice in the background. A soft, glossy acidity gives it depth and grace. This will reward after just two or three years in bottle, evolving into a gastronomic wine par excellence. Dry (5g/l).

Boxler's Pinot Gris Brand is, in our opinion, the greatest expression of the grape in the world. In warmer years it is dramatic and full-bodied, and in 2021 the wine shows a fabulous balance between sweet, ripe peachy fruit and a pithy, fleshy length, with crystallised ginger spice in the background. A soft, glossy acidity gives it depth and grace. This will reward after just two or three years in bottle, evolving into a gastronomic wine par excellence.

This is the calling card of the Boxler domaine. Sommerberg is the steep 19 hectare grand cru vineyard that rises up dramatically behind the village of Niedermorschwihr, where the Boxler cellar lies. Indeed, Sommerberg is synonymous with Boxler: this is the most famous and celebrated iteration of the vineyard. It typically has drive and tension, and in 2021 it has mouthwatering minerality, and a sappy, almost fragrant salinity. Concentrated yet weightless. This is a Riesling to hold onto for a few years and enjoy as it gains in stature with age.

Jean Boxler's late harvest sweet wines have a cult following. They are only made in years, like 2020, that lend themselves to the style, and offer immense ageing potential. The residual sugar here gives the wine unctuous weight and power, while it remains floral and vibrant. Sommerberg is such a fine vineyard that even when producing sweet wines, its mineral tension is always on display, particuarly through the conduit of Riesling. Medium (45g/l)

Jean Boxler's late harvest sweet wines have a cult following. They are only made in years, like 2020, that lend themselves to the style, and offer immense ageing potential. The residual sugar here gives the wine unctuous weight and power, while it remains floral and vibrant. Pinot Gris is staggeringly complex and profound in Jean Boxler's hands. This will be magnificent. Medium (70g/l)

This is one of the great gems of our list: a top class grower’s signature wine. Jean Boxler’s attention to detail in the vineyard is revered by neighbours, and his hard work results in wines of thrilling concentration and purity. This Riesling is zesty and energetic, brimming with aromas of fresh lime juice and white flowers. It will outpay most other Alsace grands crus, and its ageing potential should not be underestimated. In 2022 it's a notch up on any previous vintage, as it sees Jean blending in the young vines of his Sommerberg grand cru for the first time, giving the wine more amplitude and length. Dry

Brand is one of the great Alsace grand cru sites. In Jean Boxler’s hands, this famous granite site does not disappoint. Compared to its cellar neighbours, it is usually the most forward and approachable of the Boxler grands crus. The 2022 shows sensational energy, with tension and drive. The palate bursts with a sumptuous weight. Perfectly balanced, and capable of reaching a fine old age. Bone dry (1g/l).

More than any other variety, Gewürztraminer is a love-it-or-hate it grape. But anyone who claims to not like it is missing out when it comes to this wine. Its weight and aromatic perfume make it a brilliant match for one of the toughest foods to pair with wine: oily fish, particularly smoked salmon. It works when it’s young, and is even better with some bottle age. Spicy, floral, silky, and satisfying. Off-dry (30g/l).

The affinity between the granite-soiled Brand vineyard and the Gewürztraminer grape is well-recognised. This cuvée is a world-beater in terms of class and restraint: unusual descriptors for the flamboyant, aromatic variety. The palate has signature Boxler texture: silky, supple persistence. It is delicious already but will transcend into hyperbole with age.

Brand is one of the great Alsace grand cru sites. In Jean Boxler’s hands, this famous granite site does not disappoint. Compared to its cellar neighbours, it is usually the most forward and approachable of the Boxler grands crus. The 2020 has a heightened minerality, with tension on the nose, and enticing orange blossom notes. The palate bursts with fresh clementine juice and a sumptuous weight. Perfectly balanced, and capable of reaching a fine old age.

Jean Boxler's late harvest sweet wines have a cult following. They are only made in years, like 2018, that lend themselves to the style, and offer immense ageing potential. The residual sugar here gives the wine unctuous weight and power, while it remains floral and vibrant. More than any other variety, Gewürztraminer is a love-it-or-hate-it grape. But anyone who claims to not like it is missing out when it comes to this wine. There is really nothing quite like it, particularly for those patient enough to cellar it. Medium (70g/l)

This is packed with juicy concentration, with an impressive tension. This is terroir-driven Sauvignon Blanc, with the texture and balance to age well, though it’s probably too enticing to ignore right now. Impressive length.

Clape is a defining name in the Cornas appellation, with both historic fame and present-day cache. Today, Olivier Clape is making terrific wines from his family's historic vineyards. His flagship Cornas cuvée is a blend of parcels, including a 1.2 hectare parcel of the celebrated Reynard vineyard. The 2019 is savoury and tight, demanding at least a decade in bottle.

Despite 2022 being a dry vintage, Battenfeld-Spanier have created a delicious wine that is juicy and concentrated and displays wonderful pithiness and saltiness.

This is a focused wine that displays great minerality and focus. The acidity is nervy and the aromas are steely and flinty with a lime citrus core and a delicious concentration and length.

Blossom, lemon verbena and grapefruit notes combine with a salty and crushed stone character on the palate. The acidity is piercing and the core is tightly wound. This is a serious Riesling that has so much to offer

This was our top pick of Yves Cuilleron’s impressive range of Côte Rôties. It feels vibrant and fresh, with a moderate frame and perfumed length. 10% Viognier is in the blend here, with the Syrah grown on the gneiss and granite soils of Bassenon lieu dit.

One of the iconic wines of the Rhône Valley. In 2021 Hommage à Jacques Perrin has a lifted red fruit profile, in addition to the more typical brambley, black plum fruit flavours. There's a reticence and delicacy at this early stage, also reflecting this more restrained vintage. There's plenty of freshness and earthy tones towards the finish, and approachable, rounded tannins.

This is one of the most celebrated blends of the southern Rhône, notable for its high proportion of Mourvèdre. This variety gives it cool cassis fruit, structure and length. Grenache adds sweet berry tones and a supple texture, and Syrah a dark, powerful concentration, with liquorice intensity. The 2021 is pure and charming, with bright, juicy fruit and a lithe, refreshing feel.

This unique and exciting wine - produced from 140-150 year old Clairette vines - was not produced in 2019, so it was with great excitement that we celebrate its triumphant return in 2020. It is waxy and intense, with a leesy, savoury character combined with saline depth and notes of dried honey and summer flowers. It is without question the greatest Clairette you will try.

This Savennières has a brilliant attack. It is pithy and weighty, with plenty of energy. It grown on sandy soils over schist bedrock and the resulting wine is vinous and saline. A little oak gives structure to the palate and the finish shows ripe, concentrated fruit.

Only made in the better vintages Jean-Paul thinks around 10% of the wine this year has gone into Cuvée Félix, from their 27 plots across 16 hectares. It contains 30% Mourvèdre which lends a musky, cool blackcurrant character. Finely packed tannins coat the mouth and there's a lot of dark fruit concentration on the palate. Floral hints and fresh acidity builds to a fine finish, this should be fantastic with a few years in bottle.

This is a special cuvée made from old vines, with a high proportion of Mourvèdre in the blend (30%). In 2018 Jean-Paul couldn’t make this cuvée as volumes were so reduced by mildew, so 2019 sees a happy return. It is very dense and peppery, with some wild garrigue herbs entwined in the kirsch fruit.

This parcel is quintessential Chinon: at the top of the hill overlooking the Loire river, its flood plains, and the charming eponymous town. It is named after the huge and statuesque oak tree that grows at its edge. Its excellent position affords it good ripening and drainage. The soil here is clay and sandstone, and produces a wine with a pretty red fruit structure, and some distinctively spicy notes. In 2020 its ripeness and freshness chime in harmony. The wine has a lighter frame than that of the Varenne and Dioterie, and a long, elegant finish.

Stéphane Riffault, one of Sancerre's most talented winemakers with demand to match, makes rosé in only tiny amounts. We are thrilled to have a small parcel of the delicious 2022. Sancerre rosé is made from 100% Pinot Noir and this iteration is vinous and long, with a mineral backbone, as if chiselled from Sancerre's limestone soils, and a juiciness from the sunny conditions of the year. Unlike Stéphane's whites which demand a little ageing, this is ready to drink already, though do not underestimate its ability to age.

Superb old vine Grenache and surely one of the wines of the vintage. Traditionally made, raised in large oak foudres, this wine has layer upon layer of fresh and dried fruit interlaced with savoury elements such as Ibérico ham and white pepper. Very long and complex.

This is Clusel Roch’s classic blend. It comes from a range of vineyards across the Côte Brune, including Le Plomb, Montmains, and Bas de Coteau. Spicy and graphite-textured, with floral notes, and some intense black olive and cassis notes beneath. A classic Côte-Rôtie.

La Viallière is one of the great sites of the Côte Brune. Its mid-slope position and high proportion of gravelly stones aid drainage and produce wines of great finesse and voluptuous depth. This was the highlight of the Clusel Roch cellar in 2021 - lovely notes of torrefaction give the sweet fruit a toasty charm. It is a warm site, and usually produces the roundest, richest wine here. In 2021 it is on song: the freshness and elegant balance of the vintage showing it at its best.

This cuvée is always the most powerful in the Clusel Roch stable, and even though the frame of all the 2021s is a little slimmer than recent warmer vintages, this still shows plenty of density and concentration. It comes from vines planted in 1935 by Guillaume Clusel’s great-grandfather. The parcel sits high up, above La Viallière, and makes a complex and structured wine.

Coming from a range of vineyards, including Le Plomb, Montmains, and Bas de Coteau, Les Schistes is the benchmark wine from Clusel-Roch. Spicy and textured, with lots of floral character and a blood orange note, it’s an elegant, refined, impressive Côte-R

This vineyard was planted in 1945, and the old vines are treated with huge respect in the Courbis cellar, where Laurent applies a generous 50% new oak to the wine, that is more than matched by the natural density of fruit. This is a big, powerful, broad-shouldered wine. Its 250m elevation helps it retain freshening acidity, which offers a great foundation to the statuesque density of the wine.

This vineyard was planted in 1945, and the old vines are treated with huge respect in the Courbis cellar. It has been aged in 60% new oak, and will demand more time in bottle than the other Courbis wines. There is a natural density to the fruit, and the wine shows its calibre in a long, powerful finish.

This bursts with green pineapple perfume. Both exotic and vibrant. It has a silky, textured palate. It comes from a single vineyard in the south of the appellation, in St Pierre de Boeuf. The east/north-east aspect makes this site cooler than many, and its granite and gneiss soils results in superb mineral tension to the wine.

This comes from parcels in the south of the appellation, in St Pierre de Boeuf. The east/north-east aspect makes this site cooler than many, and its granite and gneiss soils results in superb mineral tension to the wine.

This is one of the finest sites of the Côte Blonde, and it produces a wine of huge elegance and subtlety, although you’ll want to tuck it away for a few years before pulling the cork.

This is one of the finest sites of the Côte Blonde. Its depth of fruit is clear, even in the 2021 vintage that tends towards lighted, more restrained wines. Supporting new oak gives it spice and succulence. Of all the Garon cuvées, this will benefit the most from some time in the cellar, though it should drink well from just 3 to 4 years.

This is a fantastic site on the Côte Brune, shared between just three growers. The vines were replanted in 1980 and 2001, and their youthful vigour produces a juicy wine, with a rounded balance. 30% whole bunch and 30% new oak add silkiness and depth.

This fantastic site on the Côte Brune is shared between just three growers. The Garons’ vines were replanted in 1980 and 2001, and their youthful vigour produces a juicy wine, with a rounded balance. 30% whole bunch and 30% new oak add silkiness and depth.

This comes from four neighbouring lieux-dits on the Côte Blonde: Lancement, La Triote, Le Combard and Le Mollard. They share a high proportion of white schist in their soils, making for an intense and savoury expression. It is glossy, black-fruited, with a fresh, tense length.

This comes from four neighbouring lieux-dits on the Côte Blonde: Lancement, La Triote, Le Combard and Le Mollard. They share a high proportion of white schist in their soils, making for an intense, savoury, and long expression. It has 20% whole bunch, and the fruit is glossy and deep.

This is one of the finest sites of the Côte Blonde, and it produces a wine of huge elegance and subtlety, although you’ll want to tuck it away for a few years before pulling the cork.

This Muntada is a showstopper. There’s a thrilling wildness and energy here, with bright, pure fruit and sweet leather and spice. Predominantly Grenache and Carignan (from 125 year old vines), there’s superb concentration and complexity here.

This is another top cuvée from Domaine Giraud, named in honour of François and Marie’s father, made from vines planted in 1901 in the sandy soils next to Château Rayas.

This is, as ever, a sensational cuvée. 100% Grenache from 100 year old vines.Wonderful aromas of violets and lavender combine with pure black fruit notes and delicate nuances of rosemary and thyme. Morello cherry, damson and plums wrap around silky soft tannins, layers of mocha and sweet vanilla spice. Complex and precise with a wonderful freshness on the finish, this is a stylish and sophisticated wine that is not to be missed.
(Given 93-96 points in the Wine Advocate, Robert Parker)

Another top cuvee, made from vines planted in 1901 in Pignam and La Crau, on sand, it’s named after their father Pierre, not a reference to stone. Amazing lift and energy, so much texture and intensity, silky and lovely tannins, mouthwatering finish. Brilliant.

This, one of their top cuvees, is made from Grenache planted in 1901 and with 60 year old Syrah. The age of the vines makes a vibrant wine, with tapenade, anise and crunchy cherry fruit. Stunning.

This superb wine from Domaine Giraud comes from 50-80 year old vines grown across the various soil types found in the appellation. There is so much freshness and energy in this 2019, bursting with salty red berries. One of the best examples of its type.

80% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre from 50-80 year old vines on a mix of terroirs. Floral and elegant, and fine, intense and dynamic. Very juicy, with wonderful purity and energy, and there’s a liquorice character, too, with hints of roasted fennel.

This tiny cuvée is the jewel in the crown at this estate. It’s tough for any young domaine to buy vines in Côte-Rôtie these days, and only the very brave attempt it. Graeme and Julie now have two tiny parcels, and this cuvée has already won them much praise as the new kids to get seriously excited about. The 2021 continues their strong form. It is restrained, tightly coiled, and serious. It will need more time than the rest of their wines to open up, but will unfurl in magnificent splendour.

This is Syrah wearing its Pinot cloak. The Kamaka is the wine that needs the most explanation in the Bott cellar. Seyssuel, on the other side of the river to Côte-Rôtie, is an appellation on the march. There are hopes that it will be elevated to full cru status within a matter of years. Here, the schist and gneiss soils glisten in the sunlight; there’s no granite on this side of the river, The Syrah that grows here is floral and pinot-esque, with an elegant texture and a spicy, salty undertow. Kamata is the Maori word for rock or stone, and a nod to Graeme’s Kiwi origins. Much more than a curiosity

This tiny cuvée is the jewel in the crown at this estate. Whilst it might be easy for a young domaine to buy vineyards in Seyssuel, it is not so easy in Côte-Rôtie. But Graeme and Julie do have two tiny parcels, and this cuvée has already won them much praise as newcomers to get seriously excited about. Impeccably balanced Côte-Rôtie from the outstanding 2020 vintage.

This is Syrah wearing its Pinot cloak. The Kamaka is the wine that needs the most explanation in the Bott cellar. Seyssuel, on the other side of the river to Côte-Rôtie, is an appellation on the march. There are hopes that it will be elevated to full cru status within a matter of years. Here, the schist and gneiss soils glisten in the sunlight; there’s no granite on this side of the river. The Syrah that grows here is floral and pinot-esque, with an elegant texture and a spicy, salty undertow. Kamaka is the Maori word for rock or stone, and a nod to Graeme’s Kiwi origins. Much more than a curiosity.

A first swirl of this in the glass and you’ll fall for it. It’s a juicy, pure, light-footed, and expressive Syrah that comes from vines planted just beyond the limits of the Côte-Rôtie appellation. The 2021 is fragrant and open, with vivid cherry and cranberry notes. There’s a deliciously leafy freshness, with the scent of peonies woven through the fruit. Fresh, bright, and appetising. Stock up. This has fast become a Lay & Wheeler favourite.

This plot is in fact Graeme and Julie’s garden, and was where their whole project began. It sits between Côteau de Chéry and Château Grillet, below their house in Vérin. The wine is made in tiny quantities and shows a step up in concentration and tension on the straight Condrieu. It is fresh and refined, coming in at 12.5%.

Each year we see the Botts refine their style, and this 2022 Condrieu is an exciting step forward. They like to keep freshness in their Condrieu, rather than seeking richness and weight, and so they react quickly and pick early. This 2022 comes in at a poised 12.8% abv, giving it freshness and precision in spite of the warm growing season. It is poised and energetic, vibrant and lively, with beautiful aromatic appeal. The granitic soils of Condrieu give the wine minerality and freshness alongside natural ripeness. It should be superb after a year in bottle.

This fresh, bright, early-picked Viognier epitomises Graeme & Julie’s skill at handling this grape. Where their Condrieus are emerging as some of the most interesting in the appellation, this ‘First Flight’ is a great value window onto their style. The vines are grown in granite soils at 300m altitude. This zips across the palate with the natural freshness, and an attractive almond bite on the finish.

A small amount of grapes that go into this wine come from Graeme and Julie's back garden - classified Condrieu terroir, and the kick-starter for building their own domaine. The 2018 is full of sweet, floral, honey notes. The palate is fleshy, clean, and with a silky flow. This is a stunning Condrieu, and indicative of the brilliant talent at this new domaine.

This Pinot is all vinified and aged in stainless steel tank. This method helps capture the variety’s purest fruit, which in this case is ripe raspberries and redcurrants, with a charming minty lift. There’s a subtle graphite note running through the palate. Persistent and delicately light-boded at the same time. Served a little chilled this will be a thirst-quenching delight.

This is Julien’s flagship wine. It is rich and woven-through with ripe tannin and forest berry flavours. It has a silky body and a bright, red-fruit-driven finish.

Pure is 100% Grenache, all from 100 year old vines on sandy soils, very close to Rayas. The result is very intense, and, as the name suggests, pure. Black fruit wrapped in a rich, chocolaty texture and spicy length. It will need time in bottle to weave together, but already impresses.

The domaine might have 15 hectares in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but a wine you shouldn’t miss is this cuvée, from lesser-known Châteauneuf-de-Gadagne just to the south. The name is a nod to their ability to throw off the constraints of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape regulations in this peppery and fragrant wine. It is mainly Grenache with some Mourvèdre, Carignan and Syrah thrown in for good measure.

Pure is 100% Grenache, all from 100 year old vines on sandy soils. The result is very intense, and, as the name suggests, pure. There's tons of black fruit here, surrounded by rich, chocolately textures and spicy flavours. This needs time in bottle to weave together, but already impresses.

The domaine might have 15 hectares in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but a wine you shouldn’t miss is this cuvée, from lesser-known Châteauneuf-de-Gadagne just to the south. The name is a nod to their ability to throw off the constraints of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape regulations in this peppery and fragrant wine. It is mainly Grenache with some Mourvèdre, Carignan and Syrah thrown in for good measure.

Mainly Grenache with some Mourvèdre, Carignan and Syrah, from Châteauneuf-de-Gadagne, an area to the south with a similar profile to Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This is peppery and fine, with wonderful fragrance. A smart buy.

From some of Gigondas' highest vineyards, Thierry Faravel produces a wine of elegance and restraint. 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah make up the blend, which offers fresh-picked violet and crushed red berry fruit. There is much finesse here and, unusually for most Gigondas, a vein of impressive minerality. Very refined and taut, with excellent definition and persistence.

Clos des Cazaux's old vine Vacqueryas offers great value, with elegant peachy fruit, white flowers, salinity and charming freshness. There's no oak but the old vine character lends some delicate spice and texture to the wine.

This comes from gnarled 70-year-old vines in neighbouring Gigondas. Its 70% Grenache base gives it a juicy fluidity and composure. 15% Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre add their peppery spice and frame to the win beautifully. This is absolutely spot-on southern Rhône joy in a glass.

Sometimes overlooked, those that do so do so at their peril: the Hermitage Rouge really is a baby Gréal in 2017. Silky and fine but with oodles of depth, it’s a simply stunning Syrah.

From two vineyards, this is the hidden gem of Sorrel’s range. From 60 year old vines, this has a delicate floral character, with plenty of rich fruit and a beautifully long finish. One not to be missed.

Le Gréal is a unique wine, and one that has built up a loyal following for its decadent, statuesque style. 2021 is a departure from the norm. Unlike all previous vintages back to 2009 that have been made from 100% whole bunch fruit, this is 90% destemmed. It feels less massive than previous years, more juicy, bright, and balanced, though it has an echo of the wine’s signature spicy notes thanks to the 10% whole bunch Guillaume has kept in the blend. It harks back to a style Guillaume says was last found in the 1990s. It may be unlike the wines we’ve come to love from this domaine, but actually, is a delicious iteration in its own right. In spite of its slighter style, it should age fantastically. One thing that remains constant is the fruit’s origin: 90% is drawn from the lauded Le Méal parcel, at 10% from Les Gréffieux, on the Hermitage hillside, from vines dating back to the 1920s. A small amount of co-planted Marsanne amongst the Syrah adds freshness and mollifies the tannins.

This comes from old vines planted in the historic vineyard of Rocoules. It is powerful and deep, and will certainly benefit from a few years in the cellar.

This comes from old vines planted in the historic vineyard. It is undeniably powerful, and would benefit from a few years in the cellar.

Les Rocoules is one of the most outrageously flamboyant, unapologetically full-throttle whites on our list. Its broad shoulders and rich oily depths have won it many fans over the years. The old vine concentration here lends the wine intense complexity on the finish.

2021 is the greatest vintage for northern Rhône whites since 2014, and this is the best Rocules we can remember tasting. Unlike recent warmer vintages that have lent into the honeyed, nutty, tropical richness of Marsanne, this is fresh, precise, and has its old vine concentration on full display not in high alcohol, but in profound length.

This is usually a blend of two parcels, but in 2021 Bressands was hailed in August, meaning the yield here was decimated. So the heart of the wine is from Les Plantiers, just below Le Méal. Like the Crozes Hermitage, this was fully destemmed - a marked departure from the domaine’s usual style. It is sappy, salty, crunchy, and fresh. The floral tones make it more accessible than the Gréal, and mean it should start to open up a little earlier, too.

Mon Village is the destination for the fruit of the Ogier’s younger vines, and it’s an approachable yet not-to-be-undervalued Côte-Rôtie. Very floral and supple, with persistence on the finish.

Stéphane Ogier’s reputation is built on his Côte-Rôties. This cuvée is a blend of ten plots, mostly from the northern part of the appellation. It was first created in 2010, with Stéphane wanting to create a blended Côte-Rôtie that has all the signature style and spice of the hillside, but is accessible a little earlier than some of his single vineyard wines that are released later. It comes mostly from his younger vines, between 10 and 30 years old. It is bursting with Syrah black pepper and red currants, with a floral note lifting the palate. Salty tannins carry through onto the finish.

It's hard to believe this is only the second vintage of Paradella. The confidence and skill of the winemaking here speaks of superb experience, which can be attributed to Lionel Wojcik’s training at Château Tertre Roteboeuf. Made from Nielluccio (the local name for Sangiovese) and grown in the Corsican commune of Patrimonio - the finest on the island - it has such intense, decadent red berries beneath its rich, toasty oak. It will meld beautifully together with a few years in bottle.

La Pitaude lies on Kimmeridgian terres blanches soils in the commune of Verdigny (very similar to that of the Monts Damnés vineyard). The site produces bunches with such small berries that the concentration of acidity and flavour in this wine absolutely soars. Yields are so low that Luc has considered pulling the vines out many times, but each year it makes such a spellbinding wine, he decides to keep them. And since this wine is made in only miniscule volumes, he hand writes with a gold pen on the bottle. It would do well for a few years in the cellar, and its saline, savoury structure will make it an excellent food wine in the years to come.

From the moment this wine was poured, the air was filled with notes of white and pink flower petals, alongside more complex notes of Black Forest ham, lavendar and a hint of tapenade. Black-berried fruit dominates the palate, which displays an exceptional textural component, as well as purity and depth of the very highest order. There is an effortless style about Mon Aïeul, which is delightfully natural and terroir-focused, almost beyond comparison within the region.

A blend of 15 lieux-dits across Côte Blonde and Côte Brune (in total 25 plots go into it). Really nice character here, fresh and lifted and pure with amazing density and a long and deep finish. René adores his son’s handiwork here.

The 2016 La Bonette has electric energy and great depth to the flavour. It’s clean and elegant, with a saline balance to the finish. It’s a touch less overt or hedonistic than previous vintages, but it’s no bad thing.

Peaches and new apricots, and also a tea character, almost. It’s enticing - peppermint too. Lovely concentration and power, and the bitterness on the finish just lifts. This is so long and so fine.

René Rostaing is one of the most famous and respected of Côte-Rôtie ‘s vignerons. He is all but retired these days, leaving the domaine in the capable hands of his son, Pierre. This 1999 was made during René’s pomp, and shows the ambition and skill of a winemaker at the top of his game.

A blend of 15 lieux-dits across Côte Blonde and Côte Brune (in total 25 plots go into it), this is delicious in 2016. There’s lovely fruit - pure and juicy - with hints of violet and liquorice on the long fnish. This is already lovely.

A sweet Chenin Blanc from the hugely succesful 2015 vintage in the Loire.

Indigène is a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot noir and 5% each of Poulsard and Trousseau. Its name refers to the use of only natural ingredients in its winemaking: primary fermentation with indigenous yeasts, and secondary fermentation initiated by the addition of Stéphane's own liqueur de tirage, made from the domaine’s own, fermenting straw wine. It is creamy and gently sparkling, with a vinous character running through the palate. It is one of the finest examples of its type

Trousseau is a pale in colour, light in tannin, and fresh in flavour red from Jura. This is aged in amphorae, which brings texture and purity to the fruit. It's got bone fide natural wine credentials, and would not be out of place in the coolest wine bar, and chilled down a little and servd at home, you couldn't find a better aperitif red. Crunchy and juicy.

This sparkling wine is made by transferring the still sweet and fermenting grape juice into bottle, and then trapping the subsequent carbon dioxide as it continues to ferment to dryness in the bottle. No dosage is added, though the spent yeast cells are expelled, leaving a brilliant, crystalline sparkling wine behind. It has such a wonderful depth and complexity on the nose, with a vinous structure on the palate, and a salty zing. The creamy mousse wraps around crunchy apple fruit. Experience from tasting back vintages of this cuvée shows me this wine ages brilliantly, and will develop complex depth, and savoury precision with a few years in bottle. It’s one of the most exciting wines on the list this year.

This magnificent slope rises up behind the village of Niedermorschwihr. It’s extremely steep, and produces wines of superb power and scintillating tension from its sedimentary volcanic soils. Zind Humbrecht only released this wine for the first time in 2019. The parcel was bought in 2010 and replanted after a few fallow years, in 2013. High density planting (9000 vines/hectare) and the steepness of the slope here have pushed the young vines to produce something really quite extraordinary. Indeed, Olivier admits, he hadn’t been planning on releasing a wine from this site so soon, but was so astonished with the quality and character of the wines from 2019 onwards that he felt compelled to do so. 2.8g/l residual sugar (dry)

This is from the lowest slopes at Vieille Julienne, a great site for Grenache, which loves its sandy, pebbly soils. The vines have an average age of 75+ years, and the wine is concentrated but poised. The Grenache gives generosity and breafth, and 10% Counoise brings some softer notes, freshness and balances the natural power of the wine. Lots of plush dark fruit flavours and firm structure, with a crunchy, red fruit accent and a minerally, stony finish.

This is a great site for Grenache, which loves its sandy, pebbly soils. The vines have an average age of 75+ years, and the wine is concentrated but poised. The 2019 has a dry, savoury length, with spicy and floral notes emerging with some air. It's a truly delicious Châteauneuf-du-Pape from a tip-top vintage.

The hallmark of great Châteauneuf is the ability to balance the weighty, mouthfilling fruit with freshness and lift, making a wine that can be enjoyed without being overpowering. Few make a wine with such charm and expression whilst still retaining the generous, mouthfilling style the region is famed for. Jean-Paul, take a bow.

This is a hugely powerful and impressive Châteauneuf. Old vines (100 years+), low yields, slightly cooler north-facing terraces, and Jaun-Paul's magic touch make for an exquisite wine. Very limited. The 2012 is now hitting its stride, with mature savoury notes, leather and spice coming through the juicy Grenache fruit.

This is made in tiny quantities, from vines well over 100 years old. The soil is pure sand, and the resulting wine is very concentrated, with ripe fruit and layers of complex spice. It's long and precise, with very fine, densely packed tannins.

Wow. Intense and powerful. So complex. Words just don’t do this brilliant Châteauneuf justice: one of France’s greatest wines.

This is a rare wine produced in tiny volumes from vines of well over 100 years grown on a cool, north-facing terrace that Jean-Paul and his son Antoine tend. Undeniably ample and powerful, it demands time in the cellar.

This is a hugely powerful and impressive Châteauneuf. Old vines (100 years+), low yields, slightly cooler north-facing terraces, and Jaun-Paul's magic touch make for an exquisite wine.

From grapes grown just north of the boundary of the Châteauneuf appellation, surrounding the winery, this has to be one of our greatest hidden gems. Don't let the Côtes du Rhône label fool you, this is so much more than your average Côtes du Rhône. In 2020 it is full of brambly fruit and peppery garrigue notes along with dried flowers and savoury spice. There's lots of texture building on the palate but it feels tightly coiled now with restraint. As it opens it shows more generosity with fresh fruit and dry spice, with a very subtle hint of truffle.

65% Gamay de Chautagne, 25% Mondeuse, 10% Persan. 2018’s warm season has lent this a depth of dark cherry and wild berry core, married with the cool smoky freshness of the high-altitude region. Supple, salty tannins, and a long balanced finish. Domaine des Ardoisières on top form.

Domaine des Ardoisières is one of the hottest addresses in the Savoie. This red is a blend of 65% Gamay de Chautagne, 25% Mondeuse, and 10% Persan. It is brimming with dark cherry notes and a spicy lift, with the cool smoky freshness of this high-altitude region. Supple, salty tannins, and a long balanced finish.

40% Jacquère, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Mondeuse Blanche. Apple-scented, textured, and refreshing. The slight yeasty character adds depth and weight, and its soaring acidity gives it a tangy grip, with its briny length making it so moreish. Domaine des Ardoisières on top form.

This comes from many parcels dotted around the central and southern part of the appellation. Sylvain intelligently handles his fruit: the young vine bunches are destemmed, while the older vines’ stems are kept intact, combining them to produce a highly juicy, perfumed style. It's a spicy Syrah, with the freshness of the 2021 holding it in balance.

This cuvée was first bottled separately in 2019, but is actually the first vineyard that Sylvain rented when he struck out on his own in 2007. So it holds a special place in his heart. The vines are 50-60 years old on south-facing terraces. It has a salty grip, and a deep, rich dark fruit weight on the palate.

This cuvée was first bottled separately in 2019, but is actually the first vineyard that Sylvain rented when he struck out on his own in 2007, so it holds a special place in his heart. The vines are 50-60 years old on south-facing terraces. It has a salty grip, and a deep, rich dark fruit weight on the palate from the old vines.

Sommelier-turned-winemaker Hervé Bizeul has earned kudos for his career change, from both somms and vignerons alike. He makes this superb cuvée from a parcel of very old vines (50-100 years) he bought in a forgotten corner of the Roussillon in the late 1990s. The vineyard had been abandoned, but over the past two decades has been brought back to life. The wine is a field blend of Grenache and local curiosity Lladoner Pelut, along with Carignan and Syrah grown on a limestone slope. The 2018 shows dark spice and black fruits, with dried herbs and a hint of salt. The structural tannins on the palate give it both richness and energy. It has impressive body, but there’s nothing heavy in its stature, lifted by just a hint of pepper running through the fruit.

This is the flagship wine of the estate, offering up power, precision, and remarkable ageing ability. It shows a heady concoction of sweet blossom and candied citrus notes on the nose, with a palate of electrifying power. Vivid freshness and impressive weight culminates on the long finish. Truly outstanding.

This is the flagship wine of the estate, offering up power, precision, and remarkable ageing ability. It shows a heady concoction of sweet blossom and confit citrus notes on the nose, with a palate of electrifying power. Vivid freshness and impressive weight culminates on the long finish. Truly outstanding.

The nose is already inviting, showing power and deep cherry fruit. There’s amazing drive and energy on the palate, with black fruits, spice and fine tannins. The power is undeniable, but it’s so elegant and finessed.

This is a selection of the family’s favourite tonneaux (the large demi-muid barrels they like to use for ageing) of their larger Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée. Highly fruit-driven. It has a dramatic frame of black, cassis-like fruit, underscored by a touch of tapenade. The tannins are grippy and present. It’s a Crozes with some umph.

In 2017, this is the bomb. Inky and deep, but somehow still light on its feet, it’s the Muhammed Ali of Hermitage. There’s power on the finish, but a fine thread of acidity keeps it all together. Impressive.

This vintage’s Gaby rouge has really impressive energy, with the smoke and texture of the oak enlivened by fresh acidity and peppery Syrah.

This was yet again our top pick from the domaine’s four single vineyard wines. It comes from old vines planted on sandy gravel soils. It is always the first site to be picked, and in 2020 it captures the vibrant acidity and freshness of the vintage. The nose has subtle melon and green apple fruit, whilst the palate has beautiful energy, with crisp weight. A very complete and composed example of Quincy.

A nutty, waxy wine from one of the masters of white wine in the region. It comes from the vines planted above the winery (an old railway tunnel that burrows through the hillside). It has drive, volume, richness, and a long peachy aromatic length. Stéphane is one of just three winemakers in the appellation to bottle a 100% Roussanne.

This comes from three parcels of 100-year-old vines in Champelrose, Eygats, and Combe. It is intense, and incredibly elegant on the nose, with mineral, saline, iodine notes. The palate shows voluptuous tannins which wrap around the deep red fruit, creating a mouth-coating texture.

Pur Noir is a barrel selection of the best of Vin Noir, so from Champelrose, Eygats, or Combe. It is only ever made in the best years and sits at the pinnacle of Stéphane’s cellar. It is a sensational wine, with depth and flare.

A nutty, waxy wine from one of the masters of white wine in the region. It comes from the vines planted above the winery (an old railway tunnel that burrows through the hillside). It has drive, volume, richness, and a long peachy aromatic length. Stéphane is one of just three winemakers in the appellation to bottle a 100% Roussanne.

Citrus and blossom are underpinned by flinty and stony complexity. Ginger spice aromas add complexity and are typical of the 'spice garden' vineyard. Acidity is zesty and brings vibrancy to this fantastic wine.

Grapes are sourced from Müller’s exceptional estate holdings in Wiltinger Braunfels, Oberemmeler Rosenberg and Saarburger Rausch. The 2022 has a ripeness of fruit and displays juicy peach and fresh apricot combined with a juicy acidity as well as lime and steely notes with this beautiful off dry style of Riesling.

Scharzhofberger is one of the most highly sought after sites in Germany and the world. A steep, high altitude site that overlooks the estate, the Kabinett displays saline and steely notes combined with jasmine and lemon citrus with a juiciness and a touch of ginger on the finish.

This wine is precise and finishes on the saline and citrus. There are elements of juiciness with fleshy peach, mandarin and white blossom notes as well as smoky and flinty notes that add layers of complexity.

Braune Kupp is a warmer site compared to Egon’s Scharzhofberger and it displays more ginger and spice, with florals and citrus notes taking a more supporting role. There is a juiciness and breadth on the core, a wonderfully enticing wine that is very easy to drink.

Scharzhofberger is one of the most highly sought after sites in Germany and the world. A steep, high altitude site that overlooks the estate, the Auslese demonstrates tropical fruit aromas of dried mango and apricot combined with honey blossom and hints of marmalade. There is a luscious core that is balanced rather elegantly with a nervy acidity.

Braune Kupp is a warmer site compared to Egon’s Scharzhofberger and the wine is riper and richer in profile. Expect tropical fruits with spice and quince notes adding layers of complexity.

Scharzhofberger is one of the most highly sought after sites in Germany and the world. A steep, high altitude site that overlooks the estate, the spätlese displays a generosity of rip stone fruits and spice as well as steely and crushed stone notes. The acidity is lively and provides great structure.

Sourced from very old vines on slate soils that take on an additional layer of salty minerality in vintages like 2020. Expect the jasmine, lemon citrus and fleshy peach notes to be underpinned with steely and stone notes as well as a saline core. Restrained concentration defines this wine.

The 2016 Hommage is a tour de force. Intense and powerful, this Mourvèdre led wine balances notes of pot pourri and fresh flowers with tapenade and burnt rocks. Long and remarkably complex, it lifts Châteauneuf to a new level.

Les Fripons is, like Les Filles, a wine made from 100% Bergeron - the local Savoie name for Roussanne. It is more linear and lean than Les Filles, but no less delicious. Gilles Berlioz is a passionate practicioner of organic farming and a benchmark producer in the Savoie.

Unlike his neighbours who use the lieu-dit name Cul de Beaujeu, Gérard keeps the original 'Clos' in his, as his vines lie within the oldest part of the vineyard, that had originally been surrounded by a wall. They sit in the chalky Kimmeridgian terres blanches soils of this dramatically steep south-east facing slope that rises up behind the village of Chavignol. Of all his cuvées, this is the most opulent in character, the most open and forward in its youth, with fleshy fruits and just a hint of tropical succulence, twinned with a superbly fresh cut of acidity.

Clos Mosny is a walled 12 hectare vineyard which consistently produces one of our favourite wines from Jacky. In 2021 it is so beutifully aromatic, with an energetic drive on the palate. The fruit is almost flamboyant in its expression, yet the saline tension of the acidity keeps everything tightly in balance, making this a serious and age-worthy expression of Chein Blanc. Just a hint of new oak adds a creaminess to the texture. Very long on the finish.

This charming barrel-aged pinot from Stodden in the tiny Ahr district on the Rhine opens with cherry blossom, sandalwood and dried herbs. There is real fruit intensity of red and black cherry on the palate, hints of cocoa, with a silky texture and a focused, refreshing finish.

This wine is comparable in quality to the Grosse Gewächs level Spätburgunder from this estate. Expect the spiciness of Krauterberg, a breadth and creaminess of Sonnenberg and a minerality and complexity that you would associate with Herrenberg and Mönchberg. This wine has a delicious red berry perfume that is reminiscent of some of the best Pinot noir in Germany and beyond. Wild strawberries, jasmine tea and spice are the main charcteristics that shine in this wine. The tannins are tight knit and there is great tension on the core thanks to the crisp acidity and silky palate. The wine has an innate quality that you can enjoy now or will develop and age for many years to come.

From the oldest vines on the estate (alte reben means old vines), this is a wine that wows with its intensity, power and structure. Notes of thyme and a pure core of blue and red fruit are encased in wonderfully refined tannins. And it’s the length that really marks this wine out as special: it’s detailed, pure, and incredibly long. Spectacular.

Expect bright, wild berry fruits from Pegel 735 with lots of energy and a very quaffable wine indeed. Rescued by H.O Spanier is more smoky in style with a signature bacon fat character from Stodden's wines. The wine is more brooding in profile with a zesty acid profile. Alexander Die Grossen is the Grand Cru wine that has an attractive perfume and presents jasmine tea and wild strawberry notes that continue for a long time on the palate.

Planted in the early 1980s, Alexander Stodden has cared for this vineyard since 2001. From Greywacke soils, with some clay, this is a powerful and spectacularly long wine. Notes of dark berries and some spice, and then a mineral finish. Bravo.

A bottling that pushes the boundaries of what high-quality Beaujolais can be: grapes spend an enormous seven months macerating in large clay amphorae, creating a textured, explosive wine that’s spectacularly delicious.

This is made from a high quality Beaujolais village parcel, but after the wine was rejected in 2012 for being ‘too pale’, Jean-Claude decided to change its classification to the much freer Vin de France, valuing the innate character of the wine over the AOC’s regulations. It remains one of the most interesting in his range. The palate is so light on its feet, with a lifted red berry energy. 100% whole bunch Gamay gives it a cool, bright structure with lacy tannins. No sulphur dioxide is added at all here. Equally well suited as a chilled aperitif red or a superb lighter style to finish an evening off: this is natural winemaking at its finest, least-faddy best.

This great value wine from Touraine is fruity and fresh, with just an edge of Sauvignon’s vegetal green tea notes. Jean-François explains he likes to play with the natural bitterness of Sauvignon Blanc, brilliantly controlled in this example.

This is made from the Chasselas grape, the lesser-known variety of Pouilly, with only a handful of hectares remaining today. Jonathan’s is one of the best examples: refined and floral, juicy and refreshing. What it lacks in Sauvignon Blanc’s razor sharp edges it gains in its delicate proportions.

This is one of the best wines we’ve tasted from Jonathan Pabiot recently. It hits all the marks. It comes from a limestone parcel near Tracy-sur-Loire and is ripe, fresh, full of energy, and shows great character. The wine has spent 18 months ageing in concrete tanks before bottling, and it has a silky texture with a deliciously long, bright finish.

This is the flagship wine of the estate, and offers the best of Muscadet: pale lemon yellow, a little citrus and blossom on the nose, an elegant, defined length, with some savoury structure from lees ageing bringing it all together. This is an absolutely charming Muscadet. It bursts with lemons and limes, and has such a refreshing tension.

The 2021 Le Clos has a sumptuous nose of fresh fig, cassis, and blueberries as well as hints of flowers and leather. There is tremendous concentration, and a serious quality to its tannins. Aged in a combination of barrels and foudres, with 20% new oak, given a little time this is a classic St Joseph in the making.

Coming from a 65 year old parcel, on the all-granite soils of lieu-dit Les Bessards, the 2021 Le Pavillon displays cassis, blackberry and cracked black pepper notes. On the palate, the tannins are fine and swept along with fresh acidity, underpinned with a lovely, smokiness. This is a captivating Hermitage.

This parcel sits at the bottom of the Hermitage hill on alluvial soils. In 2021 it is fleshy and full, with notes of fragrant red and black fruit, game and cracked black pepper. It is detailed, pure, elegant and complex. Utterly charming.

From 50-year-old+ Marsanne vines, whole-bunch pressed and fermented half in 600l oak foudres, half in vats. The vineyards are south facing, and are always the first to be harvested. This is full-bodied, concentrated, powerful and intense on the palate with notes of fresh pear, honey and hazelnuts. Yet a lean, freshness prevails. Incredibly impressive.

Chapoutier is an undisputed master of Syrah in the Northern Rhone, and they have taken their know how to this south-west estate in the Côtes du Roussillon. It's an unusual wine for the region in that it is 100% Syrah (most wines here are a blend of varieties). Structured and deep.

A blend of 65% Grenache and 35% Syrah, the grapes are hand-harvested then undergo a long, slow maceration to gently extract flavours and aromas. Ageing takes place separately, during a period of 18 months - in vats for the Grenache and in large foudres for the Syrah, after which the final cuvée is assembled. The result is a wine packed full of expressive dark and red fruit and garrigue herb aromas. The palate is rich and concentrated with silky, ripe tannins and a long, spicy finish.

This legendary wine comes from the vines situated right at the top of the Hermitage hill, near the St Christophe chapel, on very old, decomposed granite soils. In 2021, the 80-year-old vines produce a fresh, vibrant wine, with lots of pepper, smokiness and blue fruits on the nose, and fine yet spirited tannins. Needs some time to unfurl, yet with outstanding potential.

This excellent lieu-dit, south of La Viallière near Ampuis, produces a well-balanced wine, with fresh acidity and fine-grained tannins in 2021. It shows hints of violet on the nose and there is a long, pleasing, mineral finish. This should open up with a little time.

65 year old vines here give incredible depth of flavour, as well as a beautifully balanced thread of acidity. Long and textured.

This comes from old vines in the southern part of the St Joseph appellation, on the opposite side of the river to Hermitage. The soils here are poor and stony. Plenty of classic, dark fruits, smokiness and herbal notes run through the palate, laced with ripe, silky tannins and a fresh, uplifting acidity.

Les Varonniers comes from Chapoutier's oldest vines (60+ years) in Crozes, grown on south-eastern facing granitic soils. The elegant palate is packed full of cassis, black pepper and smoky notes and despite the cooler nature of the vintage there is wonderful ripeness of fruit. Drinking beautifully now, but with the capacity to go on.

This Côte-Rôtie cuvée is wonderfully elegant, with violets, gorgeously pure raspberry, herbs and spice. It’s beautifully balanced and fresh, with lacy acidity and great length.

Fresh, textured and accessible, this is simply delicious. There’s pure cherry and spice with a touch of smoke, and it’s thoroughly charming.

From one of Côte-Rôtie’s most famous lieux-dits, and this lives up to the billing, exuding power and depth. It’s classically-styled, with floral and herbal characters as well as juicy black fruits. There’s tremendous energy and freshness, and the finish is cool and pure.

This is a two hectare plot that borders Château Grillet. It’s so powerful and elegant, with clean mineral and savoury notes added to the spice and stone fruit. The definition across the finish is spectacular, and there’s energy to keep it driving on.

This comes from a parcel of older vines, aged between 30 and 80 years. It is a textured and fragrant style of Crozes, with amplified fruit on the palate.

Mas de Daumas Gassac’s quirky blend has earned it many fans over the years. The main component of Cabernet Sauvignon gives it structure and tannic backbone, whilst Merlot fleshes out the mid-palate. Spiced notes from Petit Verdot and a herbaceous lift from Cabernet Franc help add complexity. So far, so Bordelais… But the Mas de Daumas has an extra edge, thanks to the baking southern sun of the Languedoc, and the unusual components of Tannat and Pinot Noir that also play supporting roles. The overall impression is a rich, full-bodied wine, with a dried herb-scented lift, and fine, peppery tannins.

The altitude here means it is picked late: one part at the end of October, and the other parts on November 10th and 11th. The resulting wine is so complex and intense, with an explosive palate of apricots, sea spray, and so much freshness. This is incredibly ripe, but is impeccably balanced with intense acidity. It’s a spectacularly pure, long, wine: one of the best we’ve tried this year.

The 2022 Riesling Zier is particularly cool on the nose, with notes of lemon sherbet and grapefruit. There’s plenty of freshness to be found here, and it would be hard to find a better summer wine for the table, but it’s got the legs to age if you can resist drinking it.

The Spitaler cuvée is sourced from just the old vines in the vineyard, which were planted back in 1962. There’s plenty of old-vine intensity and complexity in this, without losing any of the lift and energy that defines Mathias’ wines. There’s some honeyed yellow apple on the nose, while fresh pineapple and delicate spicy notes grace the palate. It will be hard not to tuck in to this bottle straight away, but patience will be well rewarded.

With its impressive dry stone walls, the imposing Kollmütz vineyard is the defining landmark of the village of Wösendorf where Mathias Hirtzberger and his wife Hanna are based. Mathias’ wines are defined by their freshness and weightless energy, and this impressive Grüner Veltliner is a perfect illustration of what the young winemaker can do. In 2022 the Kollmütz shows the same creamy texture of the region’s best wines, but is perhaps the most balanced and lifted example of any Smaragd Grüner from the vintage we’ve tried.

Some of the vines here were planted in the 1950s, with a small portion in 2002. This is intense and stony, with more vibrant acidity than the Spitaler. It’s more angular in the mouth, with lots of wild flowers and plenty of nervy acidity. It needs time, but when it comes together it will be spectacular.

This is a cooler expression of this famous Hermitage, with incredible length and finesse. Fresh and bright with a combination of black berry fruit and some red plum and raspberry. There's plenty of earthy spice, with light peppery notes, cured meats, and wild herbs.

With decent time in bottle this famous Hermitage is knitted together well with a silky texture and ripe tannins. There's ripe black berry fruit, leather, woody herbs, and subtle white pepper.

This wine comes from the lower terraces of the Achleiten vineyard at around 300 metres and is largely planted on loess and white sand. Juicy in its profile with hints of jasmine and wild herbs, expect fresh apricot, peach and lemon citrus notes with a racy acidity and salty finish.

The Steinriegel site comes from a the northern part of the valley and is dominated by a chalk silicate and marble soil. Toni Bodenstein believes that this wine produces his fruitier styles, especially with a mid palate concentration. Fresh mango, pink grapefruit and red apple notes lead the charge, yet the palate is brought into focus with the wine’s crisp and energetic acidity.

This wine comes from Prager’s highest terraces in the Achleiten vineyard with over 100+ different clones in a small parcel that creates big genetic variation and diversity. Grapefruit and lemon citrus profile with white pepper and ginger spice layers. The acidity is focused and zesty with a long and saline finish.

A vineyard that is only 0.73 hectares and sits on the eastern part of the village on very steep terraces, close to Achleiten this cuvée is often more austere than some of the estate’s other wines. It is largely gneiss soils and incredibly poor soils that produce grapes with low yield yet with great concentration. Crushed stones, smoke with ginger and lemon verbena herbal notes. The acidity is crisp and nervy and the length is incredibly long. Would benefit from decanting.

An incredibly rare bottling from this prominent estate, the Auslese from Achleiten displays plenty of honey and spice with orange peel, fleshy peach and dried apricot notes. So luscious on the palate and incredibly concentrated.

The 2022 vintage from Prager is exceptional and this Grüner displays a wonderful restrained concentration. Expect pear, white peach, white pepper and herbal notes combined with salty minerality and racy acidity.

This is a benchmark Riesling from Sebastian, and shows why his whites should be mentioned in the same breath as his world-class reds. Dry and mineral, with salinity that shines through on the palate, there’s a layered character here that keeps you reaching for more. There’s maybe even a blackcurrant note on the long and floral finish. This is so complex, and so impressive.

Sebastian may be best known for his Pinot Noirs, but this is a spectacular Chardonnay. Apple fruit and lots of complexity, with some spice and a mineral finish. Delicious.

A wine that is fermented and aged in premium Stockinger barrels, with 17 months on lees to give the palate more weight and texture. Attractive reduction and flinty on the nose with white pepper and white blossom adding layers of complexity. The acidity is crisp and energetic and balanced perfectly with the creaminess on the finish.

From a single vineyard Grand Cru (Grosse Lage) site that is due south and is made up of sandstone and loam. One of the standout wines from Sebastian's range, this is a riesling that expresses white peach, lemon and white florals. The core is tightly wound, bone dry and displaying a pithy grip on the finish that helps provide structure.

While Sebastian Fürst is best known for his Pinot Noirs, don't overlook this brilliant Chardonnay from the limestone soils of the village of Astheim, far from the estate's cellar in Burgstadt. This is incredibly Burgundian, with wonderfully expressive notes of hazelnut and peach, and lots of salinity. A real delight.

This is Fürst's village level wine with the grapes coming from 3 vineyard sites, including 2 Grosses Gewächs sites and an Erste Lage vineyard that are in a cool location. The red berry perfume is seductive and the palate is silky with very fine grained tannins and a zesty acidty. There is an attractive violet perfume on the finish.

From 25 year old plantings in the Astheim vineyard, the yields are extremely low producing very concentrated grapes and wine. There are yellow fruit and citrus notes at the forefront, yet the wine's quality comes through on the finish with crushed stones and saltiness.

Close to Centgrafenberg, this single vineyard wine is often described by Sebastian as 'the little brother'. An interesting nose of red berries and blood orange with subtle liquorice and pepper spice. Tannins are fine grained and the palate is wonderfully silky.

Sebastian may be best known for his Pinot Noirs, but this is a spectacular Chardonnay. Apple fruit and lots of complexity, with some spice and a mineral finish. Delicious.

The 2020 Centgrafenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs shows remarkable poise, with notes of greengage and some more exotic fruit, and then stunning spice alongside. There’s incredible length here, and flavours that continue to unfurl. Sebastien can make stunning Grand Cru Rieslings, too.

Harmonie is one of the best-loved Pinard cuvées. It’s a blend of the top vineyards in Bué: Chêne Marchand and Grand Chemarin. The nose is so complex and already so complete. It offers up crushed seashells, anise, and a touch of tropical fruit. This is Sauvignon Blanc at its vibrant best.

Les Créots is found in the relatively unknown village of Thauvenay at the south-eastern limit of the appellation. Its quartz-flecked clay soils are fertile ground for quality-minded producers seeking vineyard expression. For an introduction to the domaine’s whites, you couldn’t do much better than this. It is floral and delicate on the nose. The palate has an agile freshness. This is a wonderfully restrained style of Sancerre Blanc, with zesty freshness.

The quartzite and red stones give more roundness and texture. The 2022 is wonderfully mineral with a saltiness to the finish. The palate displays an energetic acidity as well juicy stone fruit flavours, a wine that will not disappoint

Grapes are coming from the oldest vines of this plot and contributes to the wine's concentration. There is a density on the palate combined with a mineral backbone and saline quality. There is an exotic profile on the nose of mango and papaya, yet this plays a supporting role to pink grapefruit and lemon.

This comes from a small plot of the oldest vines, and was first produced in just 2017. It balances richness and elegance, with all the concentration of a Grosses Gewächs Riesling from a top grower.

From old vines of over 40 years, there is an intensity of ripes mango, pineapple and exotic friuts. The palate is much more tightly wound with real energy from the acidity as well as a touch of phenolics adding to the texture. This is a complex wine that will only get better with time in bottle.

Coming from 30-40 year old vines with a south west exposition, this site is consistently producing elegant wines with tension and purity. Lemongrass, white peach and honey blossom notes exude from the glass and the palate has a generosity and juiciness that combines with layers of saltiness.

Always on the tropical spectrum, the wine demonstrates a pepper spice as well as honey blossom and ginger notes. The concentration and ripeness is well balanced with purity and unflinching acidity.

Southeast facing, the morning sun on this vineyard dries out any moisture, resulting in perfectly healthy grapes, while the warm slate soils creates a Kabinett that’s full of ripe fruit and tons of energy: it’s one of the most up-front wines from Dönnhoff, worth buying every year.

With an aromatic core of orange blossom and stone fruits enveloped by a nutty and herbaceous texture, the 2022 Grüner Veltliner Loibner is so vibrant and focussed. Though it’s a village level wine, the length, creaminess, and complexity on the palate mean that you could easily mistake it for one of the Wachau’s top crus. It’s zingy, intriguing, and utterly delicious.

First documented in 1381, the Loibenberg is one of Austria’s most storied sites. There’s a silky, velvety texture that makes Weingut Knoll’s 2022 Grüner Veltliner Loibenberg completely irresistible. It’s lighter on its feet than some other Smaragd wines from the vintage, but the harmonious balance of textures, stone-fruited flavours and minerality set it apart as a timeless classic. It dances along the palate like a Viennese waltz, and goes on for ages like a Wagner opera.

The wines of the Wachau have long been defined by mineral and peppery whites made from Grüner Veltliner planted on pure loess soils. And in that context, there are few wines more characteristic than Weingut Knoll’s Ried Kreutles Grüner Veltliner. The Kreutles vineyard sits at the bottom of the Loibenberg with pure loess soils that are perfect for Grüner, and in 2022 it particularly impresses with its complexity and finesse.

The cooler climate makes this wine steely on the attack and display green apple, lime and and steely notes supported by hints of jasmine. The core is linear and crisp and very focused.

At approximately 40 hectares, the Setzberg vineyard is the largest single vineyard in the Hirtzbergers’ home village of Spitz. And it’s a dream site for Riesling. The 2022 Setzberg is full of passionfruit and lime aromas, some white peach on the palate, and a spine of racy acidity. This is long, complex, and livelier than a Cocker Spaniel. Don’t miss it.

With an estate based in the southwestern corner of the Wachau Valley, five generations of Hirtzbergers have tended their 12 hectares of precipitously steep vines that overlook the Danube. Riesling Singerriedel is their flagship wine, and many would argue that it’s the finest Riesling in all of Austria. Each vine in Singerriedel is individually hand tended and inspected around one hundred times in the season, and this attention to detail translates into a showstopping wine that is an authentic expression of place and vintage. In 2022, the nose shows a hint of orange blossom and white stone fruit, while the palate is a perfect balance between structure and finesse. It’s elegant, immensely pleasing, and clearly world-class.

‘Smaragd’ denotes grapes picked with the highest level of ripeness, and in 2022 the Axpoint Grüner Veltliner is intensely concentrated with yellow tropical fruits that jump out of the glass. There’s a velvety texture, perfectly judged acidity, and an extraordinary length. This is completely captivating in its youth, but there’s no doubt that it has the structure to age for a long, long time.

The 2022 Honivogl is all about salinity, herbaceousness, and restraint. Delicate aromas of ripe Bosc pear and watercress are evident on the nose, while on the palate, there’s an umami character that complements the fruit. If you like ponzu sauce, you’ll absolutely love this.

This comes from mineral vineyards, not from Loess. It’s delicate, with notes of iodine and then a floral element. The finish spreads out and then there’s a bitterness here, too. This is explosive and very pure. This is a spectacular Grüner. So much oyster shell on the finish, and brilliantly balanced. Love this: very driven style.

This is a spectacular Grüner sourced from gneiss, schist and brown soils in the Hirtzberger family’s southwestern corner of the Wachau. The vineyards are set on precipitously steep terraces above the Danube, and the process of hand-farming the land is extremely labour-intensive. The 2022 iteration of the Rotes Tor Grüner Veltliner is rich and textured, brimming with yellow apple notes, and balanced with a spine of vibrant acidity. This is always one of Franz Hirtzberger’s most impressive wines, and it stands out in 2022.

This is the vineyard up the Spitzergraben, the coolest site, on the corner of the valley, where the cool air comes down from the plateau. Very precise and quite savoury on the nose. There’s notes of mint and plenty of stone fruit, and then an orange blossom character, too. So much vibrancy here: this has so much acidity, but nothing sticks out. This has everything dialled up.

Beautiful reduction on the nose initially that opens up to jasmine, fresh apricot and honeysuckle. The palate is silky and juicy and a delight to drink.

A single-vineyard cuvée from the two Brauneberg Grand Crus Juffer and Juffer Sonnenuhr. Honeysuckle, white peach and pink grapefruit notes combine with hints of ginger and steely aromas.

The Rothenberg in 2020 is a drop-dead gorgeous Riesling. It ripples with tension and drive, but has a little more creaminess than in some vintages, making a really delicious, approachable wine. Don't underestimate this wine's ability to age, though. This will go on and on and on.

The south/south west facing vineyard is incredibly steep and is planted on weathered devonian slate. A wine that exudes more spice than some of its neighbours, along with red apple, lemon citrus and salty minerality on the palate. Incredibly inviting and a pleasure to drink in youth.

From a vineyard planted on blue devonian slate this wine this Kabinett wine displays lime and white blossom florals as well as hints of reduction and fleshy peach notes. There is a crispness on the palate and a mineral finish.

The south/south west facing vineyard is incredibly steep and is planted on weathered devonian slate. The Auslese takes on mandarin, mango and pineapple notes combined with ginger and some smoky notes. The palate is refreshing and lively and so wonderfully concentrated.

This has a floral nose with tropical fruit and nice texture. There’s good depth and energy, with a long, long length.Very nicely judged.

This is Roland Velich's steepest slope in Lutzmannsburg, surrounded by forest and on chalk soils with the grapes coming from old vines planted as far back as 1921. A wine that is wonderfully mineral with a silky core and fine grained tannins. Small red berrys and floral with hints of graphite.

From east facing parcels in Lutzmannsburg and planted on a mix of loam, sandy and chalk soils, the grapes come from vineyard plantings from as old as 1934. As with all the Moric wines, there is a floral character combined with a mineral core and vibrant freshness. Red cherries combine with redcurrant and liquorice spice. The tannins are very fine with some chalkiness combined with a refreshing acidity.

A site up on a plateau that is south facing, this site is a little warmer and gives a richer profile. The signature finesse and floral character that you expect from the Moric wines still comes through. There is more spice and bramble on this wine and the tannins are a little riper than the other 2020s, but with a little time in bottle will just make the wine more enticing.

The outrunning hill of Heiligenstein. So intense - almost Grand Cru Chablis character. These’s so much going on here - texture and power, and creaminess and then plenty of spice. This treads that line between opulence and focus so so well. This is a big, intense wine, with so much intensity. Everything here is dialled up to 10.

This family owned estate in the Rheinhessen has a long history having been established in 1663 and is constantly striving for continuous improvement having converted to organic and biodynamic viticulture. 2022 saw yields down 20% at this estate due to the dry weather, but thanks to the vineyards being close to the Rhine and in a shady part of the valley the wine is fresh and vibrant. Expect pink grapefuit, fleshy peach and fresh mango notes as well as a phenolic grip and saltiness on the palate.