2019 Mâcon & Côte Chalonnaise

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). This has beautiful tension and energy, it comes as little surprise this spot has been a favourite for winegrowers through the centuries.

This 2 hectare plot lies in the north of the region, and typically has the gentlest acidity of the domaine’s wines. Nevertheless, it is always one of the most balanced, as the mineral freshness comes through the perfectly ripe fleur d’orange scent and peachy fruit. Already very approachable, this will drink well from the off, but will age well too, with its slightly exotic, exuberant character.

This always striked the fine balance between richness and finesse. Volumes in 2019 are severely reduced due to the spring frost, with one parcel of the two being entirely wiped out. But what remains has superb concentration, with smoky lime aromas and a firm, long, mineral finish.

The pinnacle of the Lafon wines in the Macon. It would give many far pricier wines from the Côte d'Or a run for their money. It has so much pop and zing in 2019. The later ripening terroir produces a succelence and ripeness twinned with delicious freshness. Excellent.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). This has beautiful tension and energy, it comes as little surprise this spot has been a favourite for winegrowers through the centuries.

Many parcels are blended into this brilliant wine, all from the Viré side of the appellation. The old vines thrive in the village’s clay-rich top soil over limestone subsoil. It is impressively round and powerful and shows the domaine’s attention to detail paying dividends in its fine and complex structure. It is subtle and very finely done. A highlight in 2019.

The small yields that come from this stony site produce a wine with big intensity, and great density. Only available in limited volumes this year due to reduced yields, this floral, exotic wine is such a crowd-pleasing style.

Fruit, fleshy and seemingly light in the nose, but with the weight and drive derived from the high altitude parcels on the palate, making for a charming example of what the Mâcon can do in talented hands.

Fruit, fleshy and seemingly light in the nose, but with the weight and drive derived from the high altitude parcels on the palate, making for a charming example of what the Mâcon can do in talented hands.

In the south of the Mâconnaise is this tiny south-facing plot. Yields were severely reduced by the summer heatwave, and what a pity there is such a tiny volume available. Lucky you if you get some: it has a deliciously delicate bitterness on the palate, keeping it serious and savoury, whilst the pretty fruit gives it finesse and style. Dominique calls it his Genevrières of the Mâconnaise.