2019 Mâcon & Côte Chalonnaise

From next vintage, Ch de Fuissé will finally be able to put ‘premier cru’ on the label of this wine. Le Clos, a 2.7 hectare monopole vineyard that lies just next to the Château, has been selected as one of the finest parcels in the appellation and deserving of this historic upgrade. The oldest vines here were planted in 1929, and the youngest in 1984. There is such a chiselled intensity in this wine, with smoky tension, and a subtle anise lift on the nose. The palate is precise, energetic and persistent. It is no surprise this will be upgraded to premier cru.

This is a brilliant blend of the appellation, drawn from over 50 separate parcels, giving a very complete and complex portrait of the region. About half comes from Fuissé’s typically clay soil, with the rest from limestone and sandy schist soils. 95% of the wine is aged in oak, with 15% in new oak. There is a hazelnut toastiness on the nose, and the bright balance of mandarin orange on the palate. This is the flagship wine of the estate, and performs every year. In 2019 it is, as ever, a highlight.

This comes from three parcels, two of which come from the limestone soiled near the distinctive Solutré rock, and the third from a richer clay site near Pouilly. It has been vinified in stainless steel only and has a wonderful freshness in 2019, with light citrus aromatics, and a clean, chalky finish.

This wine from the Côte Chalonnaise is one of the bargains of Burgundy. It performs every year, and offers excellent value. The 2019 is so expressive, bursting with crushed raspberry aromas, with crunchy freshness on the palate. Reliable and brilliant.

These vines are over 80 years old and the wine they have produced in 2019 is so wonderfully concentrated and persistent. There is an intense pineapple character - sweetness but also so much freshness, with a pithy grapefruit note on the palate. A bit of a bargain.

Because yields were so small in 2019, this is a one-off cuvée. It is a blend of Clos Reyssier and the climat Les Scellés, usually bottled separately. It might be the only time we’ll see this blend, and you shouldn’t miss it. It has the zingy freshness of juicy tangerine juice, with lightly but well-controlled tropical notes woven throughout. Totally delicious.

This cuvée is a Lay & Wheeler exclusive in the UK. It’s a clever purchase of négociant grapes that the domaine makes from the Côte Chalonnaise. All the vinification is done by the domaine’s team at their cellars in Meursault. White peach, vivid acidity, and a fine, creamy length.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). This has beautiful tension and energy, it comes as little surprise this spot has been a favourite for winegrowers through the centuries.

This 2 hectare plot lies in the north of the region, and typically has the gentlest acidity of the domaine’s wines. Nevertheless, it is always one of the most balanced, as the mineral freshness comes through the perfectly ripe fleur d’orange scent and peachy fruit. Already very approachable, this will drink well from the off, but will age well too, with its slightly exotic, exuberant character.

This always striked the fine balance between richness and finesse. Volumes in 2019 are severely reduced due to the spring frost, with one parcel of the two being entirely wiped out. But what remains has superb concentration, with smoky lime aromas and a firm, long, mineral finish.

The pinnacle of the Lafon wines in the Macon. It would give many far pricier wines from the Côte d'Or a run for their money. It has so much pop and zing in 2019. The later ripening terroir produces a succelence and ripeness twinned with delicious freshness. Excellent.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). This has beautiful tension and energy, it comes as little surprise this spot has been a favourite for winegrowers through the centuries.

Many parcels are blended into this brilliant wine, all from the Viré side of the appellation. The old vines thrive in the village’s clay-rich top soil over limestone subsoil. It is impressively round and powerful and shows the domaine’s attention to detail paying dividends in its fine and complex structure. It is subtle and very finely done. A highlight in 2019.

The small yields that come from this stony site produce a wine with big intensity, and great density. Only available in limited volumes this year due to reduced yields, this floral, exotic wine is such a crowd-pleasing style.

Fruit, fleshy and seemingly light in the nose, but with the weight and drive derived from the high altitude parcels on the palate, making for a charming example of what the Mâcon can do in talented hands.

Fruit, fleshy and seemingly light in the nose, but with the weight and drive derived from the high altitude parcels on the palate, making for a charming example of what the Mâcon can do in talented hands.

In the south of the Mâconnaise is this tiny south-facing plot. Yields were severely reduced by the summer heatwave, and what a pity there is such a tiny volume available. Lucky you if you get some: it has a deliciously delicate bitterness on the palate, keeping it serious and savoury, whilst the pretty fruit gives it finesse and style. Dominique calls it his Genevrières of the Mâconnaise.