2019 Côte de Nuits

One of the lesser known Nuits premiers crus, this vineyard is shared with Domaine Robert Chevillon, just below Aux Thorey, on the Vosne side of the appellation. Its clay-rich soils have yielded a big-shouldered, powerful Nuits, with a complex and surprisingly silky palate with an ample, pleasing finish.

Aloxe-Corton, which hugs the hill of Corton, may not be the most famous village in the Côte d’Or, overshadowed both metaphorically and literally by the grands crus, but in the hands of winemakers like Etienne the results can be impressive - and good value. This is spicy and dark-fruited on the nose, with a juicy palate that abounds with summer fruits and a voluminous, structured finish.

This large 7 hectare vineyard in the hills above Nuits-St-Georges has wonderful limestone soils, quite similar to those found on the hill of Corton, though with a much fresher climate, of course. It is wild and fresh, with a hedgerow fruit aroma and a long, and ripe finish. This has done particularly well in 2019.

This comes from a single parcel just across the road from Chambolle-Musigny, Les Bons Batons. It has the perfect combination of tannins, fruit and acidity. With notes of rose petal and fresh berries, and a fine, lacy line of acidity with supply tannins, this feels more like a Chambolle than a Bourgogne. Considerable ageing potential.

This remarkable village lieu dit sits directly above Bonnes Mares, Clos de Tart, and Clos des Lambrays. The Clair parcel is situated just above their Bonnes Mares parcel. Up here there is virtually no top soil at all, and the vines plunge straight into the limestone bedrock. The wine has a dark-fruited depth, with a tannin structure that feels so sumptuous and silky. It’s hard to believe this isn’t a premier cru.

Delicate and perfumed on the nose. When the quality of fruit is this good, it becomes irrelevant its classification is merely Bourgogne.

This wine is not only where his cellars are based, it is also the calling card of the domaine. It shows a burst of juicy red berries on the nose, with a lifted, minty freshness. The tannins are so strawberry-soft and supple that the overall impression is of an incredibly silky texture, that might feel like it were missing some structure if it weren’t for the elegant freshness of the Hautes-Côtes acidity. Nice peppery nuance to the cranberry fruit palate.

This remote east-facing vineyard sits at an elevation of 400m. Mark explains that on a crisp summer morning you can see all the way to Mont Blanc from here. Its position means, although bathed in morning sun, it does not have much hot afternoon sun. The fruit ripens slowly here, and it is often the last parcel of the domaine to be picked. It is suave, refined, and effortlessly elegant.

This cuvée first appeared in 2015. It is made from the young(er) vines of the Clos de l’Arlot that had once been labelled ‘Petit Arlot’. It consistently proves its worth as a separate bottling with every new vintage: this is sweet and precise on the nose, with bursting redcurrants, violets, and graphite. The palate shows a wonderfully classical freshness, and some attractive, firm tannins that are expertly married to the red berry volume, making it ready for drinking in just a few years, I expect.

This plot was once considered in the same breath as Chambertin and other great sites, so it now constitutes a real bargain. It is fruit, flamboyant, and fragrant in 2019, bursting with the scent of crushed raspberries. There is some stony minerality on the palate and delicious, crunchy little tannins. Bright and enticing.

This is a very special village lieu dit. It is sandwiched between two grands crus: Charmes-Chambertin and Griotte-Chambertin. You can really appreciate the calibre of this vineyard in the delicious profile of this 2019, introduced by the sumptuous but cool red fruit fragrance, and followed by a crystalline palate with perfectly expressed velvet tannins. All the fruit was destemmed for this cuvée, and the gentle supporting note of new oak in the background is on song.

This might just be the best village wine out there. It comes from four parcels which host a variety of vine ages. The relatively high proportion of younger vines gives this cuvée an explosive, juicy power. There are such voluptuous tannins and depth of fruit. It is powerful and silky, and utterly delicious.

This single vineyard Côtes de Nuits village wine is a firm Lay & Wheeler favourite. It has a superbly lifted cherry fruit nose, with some excellent minty freshness on the peppery palate. Exactly what you’d look for in this appellation, with the intensity and dimensions to out-perform some grander communal wines with a few years in bottle.

A new addition to the Cathiard cellar in 2019. The vineyards Sébastien has taken on he says are in excellent condition, and now farmed along organic lines. This is a blend of several parcels with wines aged between 10 and 70 years. It shows spicy fresh fruit, with some lovely crunch and drive.

Nicole has three parcels within this grand cru, one in the northwest corner (where everyone wants to be) tucked up next to Musigny. In 2019 she vinified all three separately, which helps add complexity and layers to the finished wine. This is spicy and deep, with some sinewy muscle flexing underneath the berry fruit and savoury tannins. An outstanding Clos de Vougeot, so long and refined, but with some power beneath.

Another new addition to the Cathiard cellar in 2019. It feels slightly more structured than the Aux Chaumes at this early stage, with a saline drive.

Clos de Vougeot might be a grand cru, but in the wrong hands it can be ungainly and heavy. In the hands of the Grivots, however, it is a finely woven, detailed and poised wine with beautiful power and length. The structure here is a little austere in its youth, but this is just the innate structure of the site taking centre stage so early on. This bodes well for some complex ageing, and the fruit will unfurl around the tannin architecture in time.

This vineyard spans over 7 hectares of limestone hillside, accounting for almost half the domaine’s production. It has a slightly darker, more deeply structured and brooding presence than the Mont des Oiseaux, with firmer, more savoury fruit. The palate swirls with mulberries and spiced blackberries, with a long, tense finish, and superbly sustained freshness.

This comes from an astonishing 18 different parcels, many in the vineyards facing Chambolle-Musigny. Poor weather at flowering has, sadly, cut the normal yield in half. But what remains is just lovely - juicy and energetic, with soft berry fruit and a salty acidity. Good precision on the finish. If you’re quick enough to get it, it’s one of the bargains of the list.

This has become the signature wine of the domaine and is unquestionably the jewel in the crown of a very strong set of 2019s. It is drawn from three parcels, one of which was planted over 75 years ago. The fruit from these very old vines goes in as whole bunch, whilst the rest is destemmed. This wine is so detailed and restrained, with a supple, fresh texture. Wild berries and light toasty spice. Completely delicious.

This single vineyard is located on the north side of Nuits, near Vosne-Romanée. It has a hint of that silkiness, but in its youth, the Nuits structure and stature dominate. This is a great example of the bold and muscular Nuits: fully bodied and full flavoured, with 2019’s brilliant freshness.

This clos is a monopole of the domaine found right at the centre point of Gevrey, between the grand cru slope and the Combe de Lavaux. There is a spicy depth of fruit on the nose, and a surprisingly fine, elegant frame on the palate. It always has a sweet salinity to it, which complements the nicely ripe fruit in 2019. A charming Gevrey premier cru that should drink well from early on. One of Bruno’s personal favourites.

This vineyard is a monopole of the estate which has been in the hands of the family since 1860. Where the Brûlées was firm and structured, this is ethereal and lithe. There is such harmony in its length, with that silky red Vosne fruit echoing through the length of the finish. Opulent yet refined.

From five parcels in four different sites, this Vosne is spicy, fragrant, and incredibly long. Beautiful energy on the finish.

40% Gamay with the rest Pinot Noir, from a 38 year old vineyard. Great density, with crunchy berries, grip, and long, fine finish.

This is a mix of three plots across the grand cru. It has a increible intensity on the nose, laden with crushed raspberries and bright cranberry notes. There is something satisfyingly astringent on the palate - the tannins adding structure and definition, and promising excellent potential with some age.

Aux Réas is an excellent village lieu dit that a number of growers choose to bottle separately. It sits at the southern end of the village, and its wines can offer some of neighbouring Nuits’ structure and firmness, with the supple, rippling fruit of classical Vosne.

Clos Frantin owns 0.63 hectares of the Clos, running from the bottom to top on the south side of the vineyard. This is yet another example where this vineyard - sometimes dismissed in the company of other grands crus - has excelled in 2019. Pure and poised, with smooth edges and delicious fruit depth.

Stéphane’s parcel of 65 year old vines lie right in the heart of the old Clos, the original part of the appellation. There is a delicate salinity beneath the fruit and an understated density here. This is a serious wine displaying graceful purity and a gorgeous length. An absolute triumph in 2019.

This monopole grand cru in the heart of Vosne between two Domaine de la Romanée-Conti monopoles - La Tâche and La Romanée-Conti - is the flagship wine of the estate. Its increased quality in recent years is the primary reason this domaine’s star is in the ascendency. This has a wealth of fruit, and the grace and power of this superb site are evident in the fine, elegant length. Complex, voluminous, and poised. Unquestionably one of the finest iterations of this site.

Unlike some Côteaux Bourguignons which are a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, this is 100% Gamay, from a parcel of very old vines the Grivots inherited via the Jayers, one of whom was married to Etienne’s father. When tasting, Etienne mentioned that Henri Jayer once told him to never, ever rip out these vines. He has since kept his word, and it is now one of the wines that Etienne is most animated about in their whole cellar. 2019 is a tiny vintage though, with the volumes reduced from a usual 20 barrels to just eight. It is dark, dense, and impressively powerful, with a full and exuberant palate that fans out with black cassis concentration. Certainly not your run of the mill Gamay.

This wine is exclusive to Lay & Wheeler in the UK. It is a steep site that sits right up against Aux Boudots on the Vosne side of the appellation. It has the finesse of Vosne and the power of Nuits - a pretty appealing combination. Some of the very old vines were recently replaced, so the production of this site is strictly limited at the moment.

These vines were planted in 1965 and 1972. Aux Murgers is one of the warmer, and therefore earlier ripening sites in Nuits, and this 2019 is generous, luscious, whilst still vibrant, thanks to good picking decisions and sensitive vinification.

This premier cru neighbours Richebourg, and has a lot of limestone on the soil. This gives the wine great definition and drive on the palate. It has fairly broad shoulders for a Vosne, but with the body amply filled out with spiced fruit and smooth tannins, everything is in great balance.

This parcel sits just under one of Nuits-St-Georges’ most celebrated premiers crus, Les Vaucrains. It is such a pretty, defined wine, with an energetic fruit persistence, and firm but fairly fine tannins, and lifting freshness.

Like the Suchots, this was another canny purchase that the domaine made in the 1990s. This an electrifying 2019. Such luxurious tannin texture and depth of fruit, with fantastic freshness. Purity and density par excellence.

This comes from just one parcel in Vosne-Romanée, planted in 1955. The wines are yielding such low volumes that the domaine is in the process of replanting, one quarter of the parcel at a time. The yield in 2019 was just 20 hl/ha, and the result is a staggeringly concentrated Bourgogne Rouge. There is remarkable potency in the deep, structured fruit here. It should be fantastic for the next decade, which is not something you can say of every Bourgogne.

This is one of the standouts in the Grivot cellar in 2019: plush, concentrated, and bursting with energy. The slippery smooth tannins wrapped around glossy dark fruit give the wine a lift and luminosity that sets it apart. The clay soils in the southern part of Nuits, sometimes accused of producing rustic wines, have helped the vines glide through the dry growing season of 2019, and have resulted in this glorious wine.

Amongst some stiff competition, this is regarded as one of the finest premiers crus in Vosne. It’s up-hill position gives it lots of light, and exposure to cooling breezes. Nicolas has been buying the fruit from this particular parcel since 1997: it is his oldest contract, and represents a special place in his offering. Nicely spiced, and with a good body of dark, ripe fruits, and a floral note on the finish. Glossy tannins remind you this couldn’t really be anything other than top drawer Vosne.

This wine has been bottled as a single vineyard cuvée by Amélie’s father for many years, and remains the flagship wine of the estate. It is just over a hectare and sits right in the heart of the appellation, just below the village itself. The alluvial soils, particularly at the bottom of the parcel, are well-draining. The vines age between 15 and 70 years, and the wine has a brilliantly grippy fresh fruit drive with ample tannins and a spicy backbone.

This is always one of the prettiest in the Grivot cellar, and in 2019, it has a full and floral bouquet of fresh strawberries and peonies. With sweet, rippling tannins and bright freshness, this is a great Pinot Noir.

This is another recent addition to the Felettig stable. It comes from the northern sector of the Côte de Nuits, from the commune just north of Gevrey-Chambertin. Its 300m elevation and 20% incline give it freshness and grippy precision.

This comes from a parcel called Basses Mazières, just below Suchots. It is dark in colour and has swirling, heady aromas of dark cherries. The palate has a distinct freshness and nice grip. Intense, and crystalline.

This vineyard is at the north end of the village, on the border with Mazoyères-Chambertin. The soils are high in limestone, and produce a wine that is rich in dark wild berries and clove spice. It has an intensity and volumes that will unfurl with time.

This was another important purchase that the domaine made in 2005, which saw them take over 1.37 hectares of prime Vosne-Romanée premier cru. The deal saw Dujac take another slice of the cru - the parcel just next to de Montille. It has such amazing lift and expression. The 100% whole bunch technique is fully justified here and the wine has such delicious tannins. Highly in demand, and for very good reason.

This premier cru has an enviable exposure, similar to Clos St Jacques in Gevrey. These 65 year old vines were planted by Sébastien’s great grandfather when he was a tenant farmer. Wonderfully cool but ripe, intense fruit.

A recent addition to the Cathiard portfolio from Burgundy's 'other' white grape. Fresh, bright, and invitingly balanced.