2019 Côte de Nuits

This remarkable village lieu dit sits directly above Bonnes Mares, Clos de Tart, and Clos des Lambrays. The Clair parcel is situated just above their Bonnes Mares parcel. Up here there is virtually no top soil at all, and the vines plunge straight into the limestone bedrock. The wine has a dark-fruited depth, with a tannin structure that feels so sumptuous and silky. It’s hard to believe this isn’t a premier cru.

Bruno Clair has an impressive 10 hectares in his home village of Marsannay, and bottles five separate cuvées, including this wonderful iteration from a single parcel at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its name (meaning “fat heads”) refers not to anybody involved in its cultivation, but rather the large rocks that show through the surface of the soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, and in 2019 has peppery red fruit and a fresh crunch that runs through the mineral tannins. Quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair. Since being bottled it has evolved to reveal a wonderfully floral aroma with a supple palate, so poised and juicy. This will drink brilliantly from early on.

This clos is a monopole of the domaine found right at the centre point of Gevrey, between the grand cru slope and the Combe de Lavaux. There is a spicy depth of fruit on the nose, and a surprisingly fine, elegant frame on the palate. It always has a sweet salinity to it, which complements the nicely ripe fruit in 2019. A charming Gevrey premier cru that should drink well from early on. One of Bruno’s personal favourites.

Bruno Clair is one of only five producers of this revered premier cru, that many regard alongside the grands crus. It is steep by Burgundian standards, with clay-rich soil. This wine is heavenly - so precise and elegant, with poised, savoury fruit. There is something so tender here, though not at all sweet. It is one of the most grown-up Gevreys you can find.