2019 Burgundy: All Wines

This is undoubtedly one of the greatest premier cru sites in the Côte de Nuits. Clos Frantin are the proud owners of 1.75 hectares. It has a powerful but controlled aroma, laden with rich red fruits and oak spice. On the palate there is that core of sweetness you find only in the best examples of Pinot Noir, where freshness, ripeness, and power are all in perfect balance. Satin-like tannins and a powerful length.

This plot was once considered in the same breath as Chambertin and other great sites, so it now constitutes a real bargain. It is fruit, flamboyant, and fragrant in 2019, bursting with the scent of crushed raspberries. There is some stony minerality on the palate and delicious, crunchy little tannins. Bright and enticing.

Where Les Vaucoupins is discreet and reserved, Les Clos is expressive and powerful, with the full, luscious weight of the warm year behind it. 25% is raised in oak, of which only a tiny portion is new. This is a buttery, weighted, striking, and satisfying Les Clos, given exciting precision by the vintage’s wonderful acidity. Pretty smart for the money.

There are few premiers crus prized as highly as this. Many put Les Amoureuses on a par with grands crus, and it has stolen the hearts of many. It is the quintessential expression of Chambolle-Musigny, brimming with sweet redcurrant fruit, and gliding along on silky tannins.

Clos Frantin owns 0.63 hectares of the Clos, running from the bottom to top on the south side of the vineyard. This is yet another example where this vineyard - sometimes dismissed in the company of other grands crus - has excelled in 2019. Pure and poised, with smooth edges and delicious fruit depth.

This wine is not only where his cellars are based, it is also the calling card of the domaine. It shows a burst of juicy red berries on the nose, with a lifted, minty freshness. The tannins are so strawberry-soft and supple that the overall impression is of an incredibly silky texture, that might feel like it were missing some structure if it weren’t for the elegant freshness of the Hautes-Côtes acidity. Nice peppery nuance to the cranberry fruit palate.

From next vintage, Ch de Fuissé will finally be able to put ‘premier cru’ on the label of this wine. Le Clos, a 2.7 hectare monopole vineyard that lies just next to the Château, has been selected as one of the finest parcels in the appellation and deserving of this historic upgrade. The oldest vines here were planted in 1929, and the youngest in 1984. There is such a chiselled intensity in this wine, with smoky tension, and a subtle anise lift on the nose. The palate is precise, energetic and persistent. It is no surprise this will be upgraded to premier cru.

This is arguably the most famous and celebrated of Puligny’s premiers crus, whose chalky soils have produced some of the finest bottles of white Burgundy ever. There is such a precise attack here, with a marked salinity. Notes of grapefruit and spring flowers on the nose, with a palate that is so distinctly racy, this couldn’t be anything other than Puligny.

Since 2012, Alain has been exchanging juice with a neighbour, for just one barrel of this astonishing grand cru that he vinifies and ages in his cellar along with his premiers crus. It has a big bite, and nectarine plump juiciness underneath. This has richness and definition, and a long saline finish.

The plot of Charmes in Puligny is a continuation of 1er Cru Charmes in Meursault, and shares many of its characteristics, like the light, fine, stony soils. It certainly merits single bottling, with its fine-boned nervous freshness and delicate richness underneath. Plenty of fragrant, fresh yellow fruit and a light blossom note. Great value.

Aux Réas is an excellent village lieu dit that a number of growers choose to bottle separately. It sits at the southern end of the village, and its wines can offer some of neighbouring Nuits’ structure and firmness, with the supple, rippling fruit of classical Vosne.

This vineyard is at the north end of the village, on the border with Mazoyères-Chambertin. The soils are high in limestone, and produce a wine that is rich in dark wild berries and clove spice. It has an intensity and volumes that will unfurl with time.

Sweet-fruited, red berries, with some rounded silky tannins and the vintage’s signature freshness on the finish.

This is the largest premier cru at Ballot-Millot, and can be relied upon to produce a sensational wine year-in year-out. It is so savoury, weighty, but not heavy, dense and with fabulous purity. Outstanding.

This sits amongst a clutch of the top premiers crus in the village. The vines are over 80 years old, and have weathered the hot summer well. This is enticing and floral, with a poised edge. It has brilliant tension and precision, with a staggering length.

Morgeot borders Santenay at the south end of the village, and is not only the largest premier cru in Chassagne, but the largest cru in the Côte d’Or. This wine is a blend of two lieux dits within: Les Fairendes and La Cadeuse, found at either end of the large cru. There is such intense fruit here, with plump orange pulp character, some white blossom, and light citrus oil, enrobed in zinging freshness.

The fruit comes from a number of parcels, all within the Chassagne commune. Alex says he looks for energy rather than too much ripeness in his Bourgogne. This has a wonderfully sweet core of nectarine, and some tart freshness balancing the natural roundness of the wine. A fragrant and charming Bourgogne Blanc, you will never regret having a few bottles of this in the cellar.

Consistently one of the finest sites in St-Aubin, towards the crest of the hill approaching Chassagne and its grands crus. Vibrant lime green flecks in the glass. The wine has a vibrant aroma of greengages, ripe peaches and blossom. Pure and very balanced.

This wine has been bottled as a single vineyard cuvée by Amélie’s father for many years, and remains the flagship wine of the estate. It is just over a hectare and sits right in the heart of the appellation, just below the village itself. The alluvial soils, particularly at the bottom of the parcel, are well-draining. The vines age between 15 and 70 years, and the wine has a brilliantly grippy fresh fruit drive with ample tannins and a spicy backbone.

This comes from a parcel of 60-year-old vines grown on the granite slopes of Mont Brouilly. These volcanic soils produce a wonderfully persistent style of Beaujolais, with the charming strawberry and cherry fruits on the nose. The palate abounds with dark juicy fruit and ripe, grippy tannins and a vibrat length. This has the structure to age extremely well.

This comes from the older vines in one of the domaine’s three large vineyards above Nantoux, named Bignon, where the elevation measures precisely 421 metres. Much like the young vine cuvée, this has a mellifluous fluidity and charm, with an added intensity of red fruit: delicious crunchy cranberry flavours, with a little new oak toastiness to support. Expertly done, this is a stunning debut.

This remarkable village lieu dit sits directly above Bonnes Mares, Clos de Tart, and Clos des Lambrays. The Clair parcel is situated just above their Bonnes Mares parcel. Up here there is virtually no top soil at all, and the vines plunge straight into the limestone bedrock. The wine has a dark-fruited depth, with a tannin structure that feels so sumptuous and silky. It’s hard to believe this isn’t a premier cru.

These are the oldest vines of the domaine, and were planted in 1902. Their concentration and complexity shows on the nose, which is chalky, floral, pretty, and spicy. The wine has so much energy, tightly coiled, and sinewy, with a pomegranate weight and floral power.

This clos is a monopole of the domaine found right at the centre point of Gevrey, between the grand cru slope and the Combe de Lavaux. There is a spicy depth of fruit on the nose, and a surprisingly fine, elegant frame on the palate. It always has a sweet salinity to it, which complements the nicely ripe fruit in 2019. A charming Gevrey premier cru that should drink well from early on. One of Bruno’s personal favourites.

Clos de Bèze is slightly steeper and warmer than Chambertin, and the heights of complexity and concentration in its fruit is remarkable. Most of the vines were planted in 1912, with the rest in the 1970s, which are affectionately still referred to as the young plants. It is nuanced, saline, floral, tantalisingly fresh, with such a profound ripe berry fruit. A wine of incredible soul.

Bruno Clair is one of only five producers of this revered premier cru, that many regard alongside the grands crus. It is steep by Burgundian standards, with clay-rich soil. This wine is heavenly - so precise and elegant, with poised, savoury fruit. There is something so tender here, though not at all sweet. It is one of the most grown-up Gevreys you can find.

This is the most linear and acid-driven of Bruno’s premiers crus, with a zingy line running through the palate. Light almond and hazelnut notes add depth and complexity. The most subtle and precise in the cellar.

En Remilly sits at the meeting point of three villages: Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, and St-Aubin. The larger part of it falls within St-Aubin, with the tiny part on the Chassagne side enjoying a superb position - next to Chevalier-Montrachet and just above Le Montrachet. It is a standout wine in Bruno’s cellar - so elegant and pure. The high elevation here, rocky soils, and old vines means yields are particularly low, and the wine is concentrated and explosive, with such tense precision.

This comes from eight plots across the village, with vines aged between 15 and 75 years. The older vines give structure and depth, whilst the younger vines add freshness and a little spice. It shows a restrained, chiselled example of the village, with a little touch of new oak giving structure and support to the white nectarine fruit. Focused and textured.

Always one of our favourite wines here, the Bressandes is always the most fleshy and appealing of their Cortons. The thin topsoil is very stony, with gravel over limestone. It always has a dark berry character, with some wild herbs in the background.

This is a steep site with very high limestone soils. It always produces a nervous, tight wine that can do with a year or two in bottle before the floral notes can blossom.

Pernande-Vergelesse is just slightly cooler than neighbouring Savigny, and the wines often have this spicy, mineral freshness about them. This is always a charming example.

This monopole is a giant amongst the great terroirs of the Côte de Beaune. This walled vineyard is over 5 hectares and contains within it some of the finest plant material in Burgundy – a great source of massal selection for growers around the world. The old vines – some in their 100th year – are low yielding but remarkably resilient. A good third down in volume in 2019, this is one of the wines to bag early on. It is ripe and full, but so fresh and pure, and elegantly powerful. Paul Zinetti continues to prove that the Clos des Epeneaux is one of the greatest vineyards of the Côte de Beaune.

Les Frémiets borders Pommard, and this wine has something of the character of both villages. Old vines here make a concentrated wine, with profound depth and sweet-fruited complexity. Gentle acidity and supple tannins bode well for the future.

This is a secret gem of a wine to know about: outstanding value, and over-delivers in a big way in vintages like 2019. It's a blend of young vine fruit (now 10 years old) with some 90-year old Aligoté Dorée, whose tiny, golden berries are packed with vibrant flavours.

This is arguably the best placed village parcel in the whole of Gevrey, sandwiched between Griotte- and Charmes-Chambertin. It makes such an elegant style, with finer, silkier tannins than other village blends. It is open and juicy, with a delicately mineral, complex finish.

This wine from the Côte Chalonnaise is one of the bargains of Burgundy. It performs every year, and offers excellent value. The 2019 is so expressive, bursting with crushed raspberry aromas, with crunchy freshness on the palate. Reliable and brilliant.

This vineyard has been a family monopole since 1874. It is the domaine's flagship wine and one of just two Burgundian Grands Crus to bear the name of its owner (Romanée-Conti being the other). It is sweet and smoky, dripping with red fruits. There’s a serious amount of body beneath the inviting aromas, and this wine should develop great complexity and depth over the years.

This is another recent addition to the Felettig stable. It comes from the northern sector of the Côte de Nuits, from the commune just north of Gevrey-Chambertin. Its 300m elevation and 20% incline give it freshness and grippy precision.

As the name suggests, this is situated in the heart of Chambolle-Musigny, and is a monopole of the domaine that we’d argue is premier cru quality. There’s lots of limestone in the soil here, and the 2019 is agile and bright, with juicy flow.

Caillerets takes its name from the tiny stones that litter the vineyard’s soil, and it’s one of the village’s most highly prized sites. This 2019 is exuberant, and hugely exciting. There is a beautiful expression of orange peel, and a spicy, mineral edge to the palate. Wonderfully pure and pristine, with excellent detail.

This fulfils every bit of its grand cru potential: it has a mesmerising nose of orchard fruit perfectly supported by the toasty, savoury oak. This is so big and powerful, but not at all heavy. Its energy gives it a drive and movement.

La Maltroie is located just up the road from the winery, near the heart of the village. The domaine owns two parcels, one of 0.56 hectares and the other 0.17 hectares. Céline says it is always approachable, and in 2019 it is bursting with zesty fresh lemon. The palate is salty, noticeably weighted with a satisfying depth, and a persistent finish.

The greatest of all white grands crus, in 2019 it has the abundant sweet ripe fruit of just picked juicy peaches. It is absolutely singing, even at this early stage. The length and complexity of flavour here promise an astonishing life ahead. It was a true privilege to taste.

Nicole has three parcels within this grand cru, one in the northwest corner (where everyone wants to be) tucked up next to Musigny. In 2019 she vinified all three separately, which helps add complexity and layers to the finished wine. This is spicy and deep, with some sinewy muscle flexing underneath the berry fruit and savoury tannins. An outstanding Clos de Vougeot, so long and refined, but with some power beneath.

This wine is exclusive to Lay & Wheeler in the UK. It is a steep site that sits right up against Aux Boudots on the Vosne side of the appellation. It has the finesse of Vosne and the power of Nuits - a pretty appealing combination. Some of the very old vines were recently replaced, so the production of this site is strictly limited at the moment.

This monopole grand cru in the heart of Vosne between two Domaine de la Romanée-Conti monopoles - La Tâche and La Romanée-Conti - is the flagship wine of the estate. Its increased quality in recent years is the primary reason this domaine’s star is in the ascendency. This has a wealth of fruit, and the grace and power of this superb site are evident in the fine, elegant length. Complex, voluminous, and poised. Unquestionably one of the finest iterations of this site.

This might just be the best village wine out there. It comes from four parcels which host a variety of vine ages. The relatively high proportion of younger vines gives this cuvée an explosive, juicy power. There are such voluptuous tannins and depth of fruit. It is powerful and silky, and utterly delicious.

This comes from just one parcel in Vosne-Romanée, planted in 1955. The wines are yielding such low volumes that the domaine is in the process of replanting, one quarter of the parcel at a time. The yield in 2019 was just 20 hl/ha, and the result is a staggeringly concentrated Bourgogne Rouge. There is remarkable potency in the deep, structured fruit here. It should be fantastic for the next decade, which is not something you can say of every Bourgogne.

Mugneret-Gibourg has just one parcel within this sizable grand cru, planted in 1954. It is one of the finest examples of the vineyard, with depth, structure, length and complexity.

This wonderful parcel sits just beneath the cluster of houses in the village centre. It is deeply perfumed with dark cherries and cranberry spice. Notes of peonies accent the palate, and the wine has a beguiling length. Hauntingly beautiful.

Gevrey provides the structure and savoury stature, Maxime provides the silky texture and long, poised finish.

This comes from a single parcel just across the road from Chambolle-Musigny, Les Bons Batons. It has the perfect combination of tannins, fruit and acidity. With notes of rose petal and fresh berries, and a fine, lacy line of acidity with supply tannins, this feels more like a Chambolle than a Bourgogne. Considerable ageing potential.

You won’t find much better than this at village level. This is a wine of terrific complexity and nuance, with much of the texture and nuance you can find in her premiers crus, just with a slightly more forward and open fruit, and lighter tannins.

This vineyard lies right in the middle of the village, and Ghislaine says because it lies in a little dip, it’s always a cool spot, giving it an edge in warmer years. The vines are now 40 years old, and really hitting their stride. In 2019 it has produced a wine so quintessentially Chambolle, with a superb floral intensity, complex palate with layers of red berries, blood orange, smoke, and spice. Exceptional.

One of the lesser known Nuits premiers crus, this vineyard is shared with Domaine Robert Chevillon, just below Aux Thorey, on the Vosne side of the appellation. Its clay-rich soils have yielded a big-shouldered, powerful Nuits, with a complex and surprisingly silky palate with an ample, pleasing finish.

Aloxe-Corton, which hugs the hill of Corton, may not be the most famous village in the Côte d’Or, overshadowed both metaphorically and literally by the grands crus, but in the hands of winemakers like Etienne the results can be impressive - and good value. This is spicy and dark-fruited on the nose, with a juicy palate that abounds with summer fruits and a voluminous, structured finish.

This single vineyard is located on the north side of Nuits, near Vosne-Romanée. It has a hint of that silkiness, but in its youth, the Nuits structure and stature dominate. This is a great example of the bold and muscular Nuits: fully bodied and full flavoured, with 2019’s brilliant freshness.

Etienne’s parcel is just next to Grands Echezeaux and has produced a magnificent wine in 2019. The fruit is so exuberant and full bodied, with a long, powerful finish of tremendous intensity.

Clos de la Chatenière is a steep south-facing parcel enclosed by a wall, with 65 year old vines. There are warmer red soils here, on the Puligny side of the village, and the wine is rich, and exuberant. A high level of millerandages amongst the old vines produces this added concentration, and the wine displays bramley apple, crystallised ginger, and salty lime spice. It is so poised and well balanced.

Les Frionnes is one of Olivier’s most important and favourite vineyards. He has 5 parcels within it, varying in age from 10 to 80 years old. The chalky soil here is very similar to the Kimmeridgian soils found in the Chablis. This, combined with the cool breeze that is drawn down the valley over Frionnes at night, has produced a wine with powerful, bright acidity, and minty, crisp apple length. This cool east-facing site was singed by frost in the spring, and volumes are down.

En Remilly is considered the finest vineyard in St-Aubin. This 2019 is powerful, chalky, smoky, and mineral. There is a noble vegetal note here - mineral intensity with some superbly well-judged reductive tension. It has less power and weight than the Chatenière but more drive and focus.

It is well-worth following Olivier’s reds, particularly in recent vintages. The 2019 might just be the finest yet. Frost, high density planting, and organic farming mean low yields were reached, and this wine has manifest concentration. 70% whole bunch in the tank adds juicy spice, but underneath, this is clearly a wine of powerful and precise dimensions. The vineyard had previously been owned by M. Duvault-Blochet, former owner of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.

This comes from a parcel called Basses Mazières, just below Suchots. It is dark in colour and has swirling, heady aromas of dark cherries. The palate has a distinct freshness and nice grip. Intense, and crystalline.

Clos de Vougeot might be a grand cru, but in the wrong hands it can be ungainly and heavy. In the hands of the Grivots, however, it is a finely woven, detailed and poised wine with beautiful power and length. The structure here is a little austere in its youth, but this is just the innate structure of the site taking centre stage so early on. This bodes well for some complex ageing, and the fruit will unfurl around the tannin architecture in time.

Unlike some Côteaux Bourguignons which are a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, this is 100% Gamay, from a parcel of very old vines the Grivots inherited via the Jayers, one of whom was married to Etienne’s father. When tasting, Etienne mentioned that Henri Jayer once told him to never, ever rip out these vines. He has since kept his word, and it is now one of the wines that Etienne is most animated about in their whole cellar. 2019 is a tiny vintage though, with the volumes reduced from a usual 20 barrels to just eight. It is dark, dense, and impressively powerful, with a full and exuberant palate that fans out with black cassis concentration. Certainly not your run of the mill Gamay.

This is always one of the prettiest in the Grivot cellar, and in 2019, it has a full and floral bouquet of fresh strawberries and peonies. With sweet, rippling tannins and bright freshness, this is a great Pinot Noir.

This wine has earned a strong following for its superb quality, and will no doubt sell out quickly on release. As ever, this is suave and intense, with an opulent and dazzling freshness. The finish goes on and on. What a treat this will be in the future.

Beaux Monts is always one of the most impressive wines from this cellar. It is a beautiful vineyard in Vosne, and one of Etienne’s personal favourites. It has a rich, dark nose, with some softer, more voluptuous fruit edges. The palate shows wonderful finesse and elegance. Completely delicious.

This well-located premier cru is just beneath Les Rugiens-Bas on the Volnay side of the village. It is one of the most improved wines of this estate over the past ten years. In 2019, it has some crunchy herbal notes amongst the red fruit notes, and an appealing salinity on the palate.

La Truffière has some of the poorest soil in Puligny, and the wines it produces often glide along at another level. This is zingy, potent, fragrant and complex. As long as you like, as well.

This single vineyard Côtes de Nuits village wine is a firm Lay & Wheeler favourite. It has a superbly lifted cherry fruit nose, with some excellent minty freshness on the peppery palate. Exactly what you’d look for in this appellation, with the intensity and dimensions to out-perform some grander communal wines with a few years in bottle.

This is a mix of three plots across the grand cru. It has a increible intensity on the nose, laden with crushed raspberries and bright cranberry notes. There is something satisfyingly astringent on the palate - the tannins adding structure and definition, and promising excellent potential with some age.

Les Suchots is a decent sized premier cru, and shared amongst many of the finest growers here; but Alix’s 2019 might just take the prize for Suchots of the vintage. It has the vineyard’s typical structure, broad tannins, and dark fruit depth. But what sets this apart are the tannins: they add an elegance with their smoothness, giving the wine that great texture of apparent sweetness the best Pinots have. Powerful, and supremely well balanced.

This is undoubtedly the pinnacle of the Droin 2019s, and one of the finest grand cru cuvées in Chablis. Delicious on the nose, with mesmerising notes of citrus, oyster brine, and green apple. But whilst the nose is already so expressive, the palate will need time to fulfill its potential. There is so much power and elegance here, it will be worth the wait.

Benoît’s village Chablis is a go-to wine across the vintages. Highly sought-after for its reliability and brilliant quality, this cuvée is a thrill to bring to Lay & Wheeler this year. It has a beautifully chalky, citrus character, so typical of the Kimmeridgian soil here. Notes of oyster shell and a balanced, poised palate make this a pretty perfect wine at the price.

This is the first premier cru Benoît decides to show. It is so flinty and taut on the nose, with lime, lemon, apricot and floral aromas, followed by nice fleshiness on the palate. It feels fresh, ripe, and straight: a classic structure, with perhaps a touch more roundness than cooler years. This unoaked premier cru will drink well from early on.

This is a blend of five terroirs across the steep Vaillons premier cru. Blending gives Benoît the chance to introduce freshness, with higher acid fruit running through the riper parcels. 30% was fermented and aged in oak, giving a good depth of structure behind the bright and peachy fruit. It is usually one of the most forward and approachable in his cellar, and 2019 is no different, with its lovely scent of spring flowers. No need to wait here; it has the energy and tension to make it open from youth.

This vineyard borders Pommard, and has produced a wine with a fruity, vibrant pallet of cranberry and redcurrant flavours in 2019. In cooler years it can be a little austere, but in 2019, it is a winner, with such plush and charming fruit.

This was the first parcel Louis and Clément picked, and they have captured the crunchy freshness of the vintage, whilst also drawing out a supple, silky red fruit core through destemming and gentle extraction. This is pretty, violet-scented and very finely balanced, with abundant, fine-grained tannins. A charming Volnay.

This parcel sits just under one of Nuits-St-Georges’ most celebrated premiers crus, Les Vaucrains. It is such a pretty, defined wine, with an energetic fruit persistence, and firm but fairly fine tannins, and lifting freshness.

This vineyard is a monopole of the estate which has been in the hands of the family since 1860. Where the Brûlées was firm and structured, this is ethereal and lithe. There is such harmony in its length, with that silky red Vosne fruit echoing through the length of the finish. Opulent yet refined.

This premier cru neighbours Richebourg, and has a lot of limestone on the soil. This gives the wine great definition and drive on the palate. It has fairly broad shoulders for a Vosne, but with the body amply filled out with spiced fruit and smooth tannins, everything is in great balance.

If you are looking for good value in Vosne-Romanée, you’re on the right track here. It comes from three well-placed parcels, including Aux Réas which extends on from the premier cru, along with La Colombière, and Au Dessus de la Rivière. It is dark and deep, with luscious black cherries on the palate and a smooth, creamy texture. This is a brilliant example of Burgundy’s most highly-prized village.

This is a blend of their lower-lying parcels of village Volnay plus some 1er Cru Brouillards. Lafarge’s Volnay is always so elegant and charming, with a perfumed nose, and an expressive silky frame.

Produced in every vintage since the foundation of the domaine, this 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay, produced from co-planted vines, is one of Burgundy’s bargains. The vines are now aged between 98 and 101 years. Lovely dark berry fruit on the nose, with a pure and delicious length.

This comes from their best parcels around the village - Grands Champs, Pluchots, Gigottes, Echards. It has a complexity and depth that leans towards premier cru. There is slightly more concentration and structure than in the straight village, though it retains that floral prettiness.

There was no Vendanges Sélectionnées made this year, given how small the yields were. So all the domaine's Meursault fruit was blended into this cuvée. It comes from two parcels: one under Santenots du Milieu, the other under Santenots du Dessus. Spicy, fresh and fleshy in 2019.

This is a brilliant ruby red, with an exuberantly crunchy red fruit-scented nose. The structure is cool and poised with bright acidity and good density of saline fruit. Lovely purity and drive.

These vines were planted in 1965 and 1972. Aux Murgers is one of the warmer, and therefore earlier ripening sites in Nuits, and this 2019 is generous, luscious, whilst still vibrant, thanks to good picking decisions and sensitive vinification.

This parcel sits in the mid-slope of the hill of Corton, and is one of its finest vineyards, noted for its elegance and finesse. This has intense floral and spicy notes as the new oak wraps around the wonderful fruit. Wonderfully complex and balanced.

Aux Boudots is a magnificent vineyard that borders Aux Malconsorts in Vosne. It produces some of the most luxurious and decadent wines of Nuits, with much of its neighbours character intertwined with its structred and muscular frame.

This is a blend of two parcels, one planted in the 1970s and 1980s, the other in the 1950s. It is raised in 50% new oak, which gives drama and texture to the sumptuous Vosne fruit.

This is sourced from two parcel, one with very old vnes that yields small, concentrated berries, and wonderfully balanced acidity and fruit, with smooth tannins.

This vineyard needs little introduction: it can lay claim as one of the finest in the village. The wine is tight and mineral, but it has the structure and depth to unfurl in magnificent splendour with a few years in bottle.

Just three barrels of this were made in 2019. It is located in the southern part of the village, alongside other such exalted sites as La Grande Montagne and La Romanée. The wine is so dense and powerful, with a weighted, almost oily texture. Thierry has mastered the use of oak here, with no new oak dominating the spicy, floral character of the wine.

This is the Pillots’ largest premier cru, and lies just up the road from their cellar. It is the emblematic cuvée of the domaine. It has a cool stone fruit nose, with a round, salty palate. The finish is wonderfully long and sustained, with a greengage character and energetic freshness.

⅓ comes from the Petits Maupertuis, next to Grands Echezeaux, and the rest from near Grivot. Good length and volume. Plenty of richness and power. This is quite intense, but has a layer of elegance, which keeps it fresh and focussed.

This is a blend of three vineyards, with 20% Clos du Roi, 20% Perrières, and the rest Paulands. This is wild and herbal, with definition of fruit and very Côte de Beaune tannins. Dark and intense, there’s great depth here.

This comes from vines at the top of Les Teurons, in the vineyard’s sweet spot between Aux Cras and Les Grèves. As usual, this cuvée is just lovely in its youth. The red stony soil and sunny exposition here make a silky, sweet-scented style of wine, with gorgeously light and supple tannins.

Rossignol-Trapet owns a very fine two parcels of this formidable grand cru. The vines were mostly planted in the 1950s, with a small section of young vines planted in 2000, and another small section planted way back in 1919. It has magnificent structure, with a voluminous length. It remains subtle and restrained on the nose, but builds in power, and has a persistent finish of dark fruits and mineral spice.

This is the only parcel the domaine bottles separately from the other Gevrey village parcels. That is thanks to its quite incredible situation, and the consistency of quality it delivers every year. It is sandwiched just between grands crus Charmes-Chambertin and Griotte-Chambertin. It’s almost unbelievable it’s only a village lieu dit. The Rossignol-Trapet vines lie right alongside the Joseph Roty Charmes Vieilles Vignes parcel, but the soil is more like Griotte-Chambertin just to the north. It has such charming sweet strawberry and cherry fruit on the nose, and lovely savoury tannins that give it an excellent but understated body. Only seven barrels of this were made, so it will be scarce.

This is one of the most complete Gevrey village wines you will find: multiple parcels scattered around the village, they vinify them in three parts. One part comes from the light stony soil at the bottom of the valley, giving a cool elegance; the second is a cluster of parcels in the middle of the village on clay soil, giving body and structure; the third is a group of parcels below the grands crus, giving a complexity and finesse. The vines are all aged between 45 and 85 years, and the concentration and complexity this wine delivers for the price is hard to beat. It has a beautifully grippy tension in 2019.

This comes from three parcels within the premier cru, and has been raised 80% in tank, and 20% in oak. It is one of the most open and expressive of the premiers crus. Concentrated and saline, it is intense and pure, with nicely weighted green fruit in its backbone.

This comes from a blend of three parcels, which Samuel says each contributes complexity, richness, and minerality. That’s a pretty good combination for a Chablis. It is flinty, clean-cut, direct, and persistent, and invariably one of our best-sellers.

Samuel’s Montée de Tonnerre is a blend of two parcels, one of which lies alongside that of Raveneau’s. Light peachy scent with a precise and sizzling length of taut chalky acidity. The creaminess of the year’s fruit comes through nicely on the finish.

A focused, firm and structured Vaudésir. Saline and crisp on the nose, there is something intriguingly spicy on the palate - pickled ginger? This is a lovely grand cru from Samuel, with weight and depth. It packs a lot of punch.

This comes from a blend of three parcels, which Samuel says each contributes complexity, richness, and minerality. That’s a pretty good combination for a Chablis. It is flinty, clean-cut, direct, and persistent, and invariably one of our best-sellers.

Séchet is a lieu dit within the Vaillons premier cru, which is prized for its floral, mineral, and delicate power. These old vines, aged between 60 and 80 years, produce one of Samuel’s most complete wines. It is freshly tight on the nose, all lemon and seaspray. This, combined with the palate’s depth, perfectly demonstrates this winemaker’s pursuit of tension and energy in his wines.

Stéphane’s parcel of 65 year old vines lie right in the heart of the old Clos, the original part of the appellation. There is a delicate salinity beneath the fruit and an understated density here. This is a serious wine displaying graceful purity and a gorgeous length. An absolute triumph in 2019.

Delicate and perfumed on the nose. When the quality of fruit is this good, it becomes irrelevant its classification is merely Bourgogne.