This is the defining wine of the grand cru, the one to which everyone looks as the quintessential Corton-Charlemagne. The west-facing aspect of the hill means the vines enjoy the long rays of the afternoon sun, making for rich textures and a sumptuous depth of fruit. It is always exhilarating to taste, with rich layers of exuberant fruit and creamy, lightly spiced notes giving freshness and balance.

Gevrey provides the structure and savoury stature, Maxime provides the silky texture and long, poised finish.

⅓ comes from the Petits Maupertuis, next to Grands Echezeaux, and the rest from near Grivot. Good length and volume. Plenty of richness and power. This is quite intense, but has a layer of elegance, which keeps it fresh and focussed.

From the village part of the Monts Luisants vineyard, this is juicy and vibrant with very wild fruit and loads of definition. This might be village level, but it tastes premier cru.

This is a blend of three vineyards, with 20% Clos du Roi, 20% Perrières, and the rest Paulands. This is wild and herbal, with definition of fruit and very Côte de Beaune tannins. Dark and intense, there’s great depth here.

An average of 60 year old vines, the oldest are over 80 years old. There are beautiful, wild, stony aromatics here, with delicate fruit and purity on the palate. This is unfurling, balanced and long, with amazing length and refined tannins. One of the best Grands Crus out there.

The Monts-Luisants is the only Premier Cru Bourgogne Aligoté in Burgundy, and this is a stunning expression in 2018. There’s apple fruit and plenty of spice, and then a really complex and focussed finish.

This comes from two parcels, with equal parts of Languettes and Le Charlemagne. This has beautiful fruit, with greengages and plenty of mineral notes. Quite peachy on the finish, and very saline, this is a brilliant Corton-Charlemagne.

From the vineyard that sits between Clos de la Roche and the Aligoté of Monts Luisants, this has real power and plenty of mineral grip. Spicy, and finely balanced, this is very long and focussed.

This comes from the part of the vineyard that’s called Mazoyères, and could be labelled as such. Nice cassis and dark fruit. Also a red berry lift and wild flower complexity. Nicely fine and supple tannins and a baked earth character. Very complex.

Elegant and finessed, stony and mineral, this is an outstanding Grand Cru. There’s elegance here, and a warm, baked earth character. There’s real density, but also a freshness and poise. Lovely.

An average of 60 year old vines, the oldest are over 80 years old. There are beautiful, wild, stony aromatics here, with delicate fruit and purity on the palate. This is unfurling, balanced and long, with amazing length and refined tannins. One of the best Grands Crus out there.

Monthélie is a small village just north of Meursault, producing deliciously crunchy red wines. The Lafon example is one of its leading lights. This is so juicy and attractive, with red fruit purity and beautiful cherry stone lift.

This comes from 0.7 hectares of premiers crus across the village: La Riotte, Les Sorbès, and Le Village (was there ever a more inaptly named premier cru?). The new style of vinification has drawn out the finest qualities of the fruit here: tight red berries, but with a fine silky texture to the tannins, and an elegant thread of acidity. Well played.

This is Jacques Devauges’ first vintage at the helm, and what a mark he has made. We tasted a blend of the various plots, carefully assembled by Jacques from barrel. The depth and dimensions of this Clos are extraordinary. It has notes of wild berries on the nose, with hints of flowers, tobacco and spice. The palate is drenched in fruit concentration, but there is nothing overpowering or heavy here - it has the natural grace and freshness of the best 2019s, with the underlying, subtle power of the fine grand cru terroir. This should prove one of the most fascinating Clos de Lambrays of the past 20 years. Conversion to organic farming twinned with the 2019 growing conditions resulted in a very small yield (just 15 hl/ha) and as a result this wine is released in tiny quantities.