2019 Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru Les Loups, Domaine des Lambrays Dry | Red | Still | 14%

This comes from 0.7 hectares of premiers crus across the village: La Riotte, Les Sorbès, and Le Village (was there ever a more inaptly named premier cru?). The new style of vinification has drawn out the finest qualities of the fruit here: tight red berries, but with a fine silky texture to the tannins, and an elegant thread of acidity. Well played.

Ready: 2024 - 2034

2019 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, Domaine des Lambrays Dry | Red | Still | 13.5%

This is Jacques Devauges’ first vintage at the helm, and what a mark he has made. We tasted a blend of the various plots, carefully assembled by Jacques from barrel. The depth and dimensions of this Clos are extraordinary. It has notes of wild berries on the nose, with hints of flowers, tobacco and spice. The palate is drenched in fruit concentration, but there is nothing overpowering or heavy here - it has the natural grace and freshness of the best 2019s, with the underlying, subtle power of the fine grand cru terroir. This should prove one of the most fascinating Clos de Lambrays of the past 20 years. Conversion to organic farming twinned with the 2019 growing conditions resulted in a very small yield (just 15 hl/ha) and as a result this wine is released in tiny quantities.

Young: 2026 - 2038