Grower Champagne

Pascal Agrapart is a bona fide member of the grower champagne hall of fame. Along with Anselme Selosse, he is the inspiration for many younger growers starting out. He has earned countless plaudits for his stunning blanc de blancs Champagnes from the Côte des Blancs. He farms 12 hectares of vines, over half of which are within the grand cru village of Avize. His wines have a vinous character, and a wonderful ability to age. Prices look set to rise for the Agrapart wines, and demand is far outstripping supply, so get them while you can. This is a blend of fruit from seven villages, including the grands crus of Avize and Cramant. It is a blend of the 2016 and 2017 vintage.

This is one of the best known Agrapart wines: a blanc de blancs of delicious precision and depth, 50% of which comes from Avize, with the rest drawn from Cramant, Oger and Oiry. It is a blend of the 2016 and 2017 vintages. 36 months ageing sur lattes before disgorgement and release gives this power, depth, and character. Pascal Agrapart is a bona fide member of the grower champagne hall of fame. Along with Anselme Selosse, he is the inspiration for many younger growers starting out. He has earned countless plaudits for his stunning Blanc de Blancs Champagnes from the Côte des Blancs. He farms 12 hectares of vines, over half of which are within the grand cru village of Avize. His wines have a vinous character, and a wonderful ability to age. Prices look set to rise for the Agrapart wines, and demand is far outstripping supply, so get them while you can.

Where Minéral is tight and refined, Avizoise is powerfull and structured. It is another blanc de blancs drawn from two sites, both in Avize with clay rich chalky soils. Pascal Agrapart is a bona fide member of the grower champagne hall of fame. Along with Anselme Selosse, he is the inspiration for many younger growers starting out. He has earned countless plaudits for his stunning Blanc de Blancs Champagnes from the Côte des Blancs. He farms 12 hectares of vines, over half of which are within the grand cru village of Avize. His wines have a vinous character, and a wonderful ability to age. Prices look set to rise for the Agrapart wines, and demand is far outstripping supply, so get them while you can.

Touchingly, this cuvée is named after the horse that once ploughed its soils, Vénus. Unlike Minéral, Terroirs and Avizoise, this is a single site wine (La Fosse Aux Pourceaux in Avize). With zero dosage, this is one of the most profoudly sublime of the Agrapart wines. Pascal Agrapart is a bona fide member of the grower champagne hall of fame. Along with Anselme Selosse, he is the inspiration for many younger growers starting out. He has earned countless plaudits for his stunning Blanc de Blancs Champagnes from the Côte des Blancs. He farms 12 hectares of vines, over half of which are within the grand cru village of Avize. His wines have a vinous character, and a wonderful ability to age. Prices look set to rise for the Agrapart wines, and demand is far outstripping supply, so get them while you can.

This is another blanc de blancs drawn from two sites, one in Avize and one in Cramant, both with poor chalky soils, and another highly sought-after Agrapart cuvée. Pascal Agrapart is a bona fide member of the grower champagne hall of fame. Along with Anselme Selosse, he is the inspiration for many younger growers starting out. He has earned countless plaudits for his stunning Blanc de Blancs Champagnes from the Côte des Blancs. He farms 12 hectares of vines, over half of which are within the grand cru village of Avize. His wines have a vinous character, and a wonderful ability to age. Prices look set to rise for the Agrapart wines, and demand is far outstripping supply, so get them while you can.

Aurélien Suenen might be young, but making Champagne is already a second career for him. His first had been as a professional basketball player. He is a disciple of both Pascal Agrapart and Anselme Selosse, whose advice has much bearing on this promising young grower in Cramant. He farms just 3 hectares across the Côte des Blancs grand cru villages of Chouilly, Oiry and Cramant. This is based on 2016 vintage (50%), and has the incisive, delicate but steely preicison of limestone-driven blanc de blancs. Aurélien's wines have already made a major impression on grower champagne followers, and are already incredibly hard to get hold of. He is one to watch.

Almost unbelievably, the vines in this lieu dit were planted in 1925. It is vinified in a combination of concrete egg and demi-muids, and 2013 is the inaugural vintage release from this site. A low 2g/l dosage enhances the seering quality of this wine, so pure, chalky, and citrus-inflected. Aurélien Suenen might be young, but making Champagne is a second career for him. His first had been as a professional basketball player. He is a disciple of both Pascal Agrapart and Anselme Selosse, whose advice has much bearing on this promising young grower in Cramant. He farms just 3 hectares across the Côte des Blancs grand cru villages of Chouilly, Oiry and Cramant. Aurélien's wines have already made a major impression on grower champagne followers, and are already incredibly hard to get hold of. He is one to watch.

2013 was Aurélien's first release of this outstanding Cramant Grand Cru. It was vinified all in one large oak foudre before being bottled in 2014. It then spent 5 years ageing sur lattes before disgorgement (just 2g/l). This wine shows the accomplished confidence of a vigneron many years more experienced than this raw young talent. Aurélien Suenen might be young, but making Champagne is a second career for him. His first had been as a professional basketball player. He is a disciple of both Pascal Agrapart and Anselme Selosse, whose advice has much bearing on this promising young grower in Cramant. He farms just 3 hectares across the Côte des Blancs grand cru villages of Chouilly, Oiry and Cramant. Aurélien's wines have already made a major impression on grower champagne followers, and are already incredibly hard to get hold of. He is one to watch.

This small, energetic, family-run biodynamic domaine of just 4.8 hectares makes exciting wines in the spectacularly well-named village of Bouzy, as well as in Ambonnay. They converted to biodynamic viticulture in the early 2000s, and their low yields and emphasis on fruit maturity produce wines with exceptional concentration and balance. Oak ageing adds to their complexity. They carry out malolactic fermentation and disgorge without the addition of dosage. This comes from Grand Cru parcels of vines with an average age of 30 years. The blend contains 55% wines from the 2015 vintage and reserve wine from the 2014 vintage and earlier. It spent two and a half years ageing in bottle before disgorgement.

Textures is a unique wine: a non-dosé wine made exclusively from one of Champagne's rare grapes - Pinot Blanc - and aged in Georgian qvevri. It is textured and opulent, and its popularity is a testament to Bertrand Gautherot's talents - taking risks, but always respecting the vineyards to produce the most expressive and interesting wines he can. He was one of the earliest growers to the biodynamic party, and has been certified by Demeter since 1998. He has been a trailblazer in the Aube ever since, setting an example that many younger growers have followed. His vineyards are closer to Chablis than Reims, and the Kimmeridgian limestone soil is an important part of the domaine's style.

Bertrand Gautherot was one of the earliest growers to the biodynamic party, and has been certified by Demeter since 1998. He has been a trailblazer in the Aube ever since, setting an example that many younger growers have followed. His vineyards are closer to Chablis than Reims, and the Kimmeridgian limestone soil is an important part of the domaine's style. This comes from the Vouette lieu dit, just by the domaine, which has an advantageous south-facing aspect, and good maturity can be reached. Zero dosage.

The heritage of these Chardonnay vines couldn't be more impeccable: a massal selection from Selosse’s vines in Avize and Dauvissat's in Chablis. It is zero dosage, but thanks to its long élevage, has a richness and power, setting it apart from more fragile, filegree blanc de blancs. Bertrand Gautherot was one of the earliest growers to the biodynamic party, and has been certified by Demeter since 1998. He has been a trailblazer in the Aube ever since, setting an example that many younger growers have followed. His vineyards are closer to Chablis than Reims, and the Kimmeridgian limestone soil is an important part of the domaine's style.

This is a small estate on the up. Recent improvements brought about by the newest generation are being felt in the vibrant and pretty wines they make. Enfant de la Montagne comes from premier cru vineyards on the Montagne de Reims, and is vinified in stainless steel before spenging 3 years ageing sur lattes ahead of disgorgement and release. This has the 2015 vintage at its heart (60%) and has a bright and fragrant apple aroma which is followed by tight acidity and a green apple crunch on the palate. It is fruit-forward, dry, pithy and refreshing. Its great value for money will not go unnoticed.

Just 5,200 bottles were produced of this delicious rosé, which has peachy red berry, raspberry aromas, and an arrestingly taut and incisive palate. The Bérêche family own 11 hectares of vines, most of which are in the village of Ludes on the Montagne de Reims. In recent years they have gone from strength to strength, and their wines are snapped up with speed. They block malolactic fermentation so the wines have a tensile, chalky line running through them. The extended oak ageing they practice adds depth and power to the wines.

Only 4000 bottles of this wine have been made in 2016 from the low yielding old vines planted on a north-facing slope in Mareuil-le-Port. It is taut and refined, with the nervous fruit of top class Pinot Meunier handled by expert hands. Bérêche is now one of the most sought-after growers in Champagne. The family team own 11 hectares, most of which are in the village of Ludes on the Montagne de Reims. In recent years they have gone from strength to strength, and their wines are snapped up with speed. They block malolactic fermentation so the wines have a tensile, chalky line running through them. The extended oak ageing they practice adds depth and power to the wines.

The family team own 11 hectares, most of which are in the village of Ludes on the Montagne de Reims. In recent years they have gone from strength to strength, and their wines are snapped up with speed. They block malolactic fermentation so the wines have a tensile, chalky line running through them. The extended oak ageing they practice adds depth and power to the wines. This is an exemplary non-vintage blend made up of 35% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir,35% Chardonnay. It is creamy and precise, so long and savoury. No wonder Antonio Galloni said of the cuvée: "I often find myself reaching for the [Bérêche] NV Brut Réserve, which is reliably one of the very finest Champagnes in its peer group."

This is one of the rarest and most highly-prized of the Bérêche wines. It is made to showcase just what reserve wines can do in a blend, if given enough time to develop. It includes a proportion of perpetual reserve (started in 1985), made up of wines from the best plots owned by the family. A portion of this was drawn off and then spent three years ageing sur lattes before disgorgement. It has mature, almost sherry-like notes, and a wonderfully complex, savoury and deep character. It is one of the most intriguing and though-provoking wines on the list, and certainly one of the rarest. The family team own 11 hectares, most of which are in the village of Ludes on the Montagne de Reims. In recent years they have gone from strength to strength, and their wines are snapped up with speed. They block malolactic fermentation so the wines have a tensile, chalky line running through them. The extended oak ageing they practice adds depth and power to the wines.

This blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir from an outstanding vintage is drinking superbly after some bottle age. With this time it has developed a wonderfully textural depth, with notes of tarte tatin and crème pâtissière. It finishes with tremendous energy and zip. The Tarlant family have been proudly growing grapes in the Vallée de la Marne since 1687. Their cellars are set in the village of Oueilly, and here brother and sister team, Benoit and Melanie Tarlant, have contributed a significant slice to Champagne's history (custodians of rare varieties and practitioners of long lees ageing). Their wines offer exceptional value for money to boot, particularly given the length of ageing they dedicate before release.

The Zéro Brut Nature is the signature cuvée of the Tarlant family, and the current release, based on the 2012 vintage, could not be a finer example of the quality of craftsmanship found in their wines. It is tight, chalky, and vinous feeling, with the scent of green apple and the crunch of fresh acidity. Its six years' ageing in bottle before disgorgement adds depth and creaminess. Blind, you'll trip over yourself saying it's Krug. If we had a 'house' grower champagne, this would be it.

Vilmart is a Champagne house prized by connoisseurs, and their rosé cuvée shimmers with elegance. Laurent Champs is the fifth generation of his family to make these wines, and he’s a man of passion and skill. His exacting standards in his vineyards and winery ensure exceptional wines every vintage.

Laurent Champs, owner and Chef de Cave of Vilmart, is one of Champagne’s unsung heroes. The house has been in his family for five generations, and he now farms 11 hectares and makes wines of haunting beauty. His champagnes some of the most flavoursome wines we know, with visceral freshness thanks to blocked malolactic fermentation, and superb concentration. The Cœur de Cuvée is his top wine, and even in the difficult vintage of 2010 is an unqualified success.

This 12 hectare domaine is based in Merfy, just north-west of Reims. The young Alexandre Chartogne took over the family domaine in 2006 having trained at Selosse, whose influence is seen in the way he works his vineyards. No pesticides or herbicides are used, and ploughing is done by horse. Specialising in single vineyard Champagnes, Alexandre produces eight cuvées. Antonio Galloni says his "readers will find very few growers with a deeper love of the land and all it has to say than Alexandre Chartogne." The Couarres is one of two Champagnes that Alexandre makes from the south-facing slope of sandy soils over tufa. Aged in 3-6 year old barrels. 5.5g/l dosage.

Les Orizeaux is a highly-prized and sought-after cuvée from Alexandre. It is made from 100% Pinot Noir, from vines planted in 1961 on a patch of sandy soils over a limestone bedrock, just above Les Barres. The wine is aged in old oak barrels, and the red berry warmth of the fruit comes through on the creamy finish. Dosage 3.5g/l. This 12 hectare domaine is based in Merfy, just north-west of Reims. The young Alexandre Chartogne took over the family domaine in 2006 having trained at Selosse, whose influence is seen in the way he works his vineyards. No pesticides or herbicides are used, and ploughing is done by horse. Specialising in single vineyard Champagnes, Alexandre produces eight cuvées. Antonio Galloni says his "readers will find very few growers with a deeper love of the land and all it has to say than Alexandre Chartogne."

Les Semlables comes from various plots which share the common themes of Kimmeridgian limestone and north/north-west aspects. This blanc de noirs (100% Pinot Noir) is both juicy and vibrant with an energetic drive. Zero dosage keeps it brisk and razor-sharp. Clandestin is a joint venture by the young Benoît Doussot, who graduated from Beaune in just 2015, and Bertrant Gautherot of Vouette et Sorbée. Strictly speaking, it is technically a micro-négociant, but with all the detail and quality of a grower, with a very promising future. Having grown up, studied, and trained in Burgundy, Benoît is a dab hand at oak élevage. Given that this project is so young, only a few cuvées have been released, and the reaction of fellow growers and critics has been overwhelmingly positive. So watch this space.