Côte de Nuits

This is one of the parcels that Cyprien and his team farm organically all year round and harvest themselves, under the négociant label. It is an excellent village lieu-dit at the southern end of Vosne, which a number of growers choose to bottle separately. It shows typical Vosne energy and power, with a bright length, and plenty in reserve.

This vineyard is at the north end of the village, on the border with grand cru, Mazoyères-Chambertin. The soils are high in limestone, and produce a wine that is rich in dark wild berries and clove spice, with a lean and persistent freshness.

This comes from various parcels the domaine owns around the village, mostly located on the Morey side. It shows a certain austerity, mingled with Chambolle’s signature texture: silky, dense, and refined.

This is a clear stand-out in the Arlaud cellar. It’s the most dramatic wine in the line up, outpacing the other grand cru with its grip and swagger. A truly great Clos de la Roche.

This comes from the very highest point of Mazoyères-Chambertin, which can also be labelled as Charmes-Chambertin. It has sensational volume with a crystalline purity driving through the finish.

Cyprien makes two Bourgognes, and this is the one that comes from the domaine’s single parcel which lies just beyond the village boundary of Gevrey-Chambertin, but a stone’s throw from the village’s grands crus. It is a fairly serious Bourgogne, with an expressive, chewy core to it, offering up the density of Gevrey, with the open fruit to drink well early. A graphite lift on the nose adds extra interest.

This vineyard sits just below Clos St-Denis, in the heart of the village, and offers up a deep and textured expression of Morey-St-Denis. It has an ethereal minty lift to the fruit. Good balance in its length.

This always delivers huge complexity from the start. It is so deep, and with such a sustained finish you’ll be thinking about it long after tasting.

This always delivers huge complexity from the start. It is so deep, and with such a sustained finish you’ll be thinking about it long after tasting.

Rousseau’s Gevrey might be their least grand cuvée, but it remains nevertheless one of the most sought-after wines, and a window onto their supreme style which can be drunk a little earlier than their premiers and grands crus.

Lavaux St Jacques is a lovely vineyard on the Combe de Lavaux which enjoys the cooling influence of the cold air drawn down the valley. The wine is chiselled and precise.

The Ruchottes always abounds with small red berry fruit, making it a lively and vibrant grand cru. It nevertheless has the gravitas of its grand cru status, and will evolved for many years in bottle.

Only five domaines own Clos St Jacques, and Rousseau’s wine is frequently at the pinnacle. This shows the complexity, suave power, and finesse of a grand cru, with incredible freshness.

With Richebourg and Cros Parantoux as neighbours, you can expect great things from this vineyard. Amélie has five separate plots across half a hectare (although she gives some of the production back to her aunt, so there is never ever enough to meet demand). The site is so steep and inaccessible that no tractors can reach it, and all work is done by horse or hand. She’s worked hard on this cuvée, which can tend towards reduction. Switching to concrete tanks for fermentation has helped, and the wine is now meeting its full potential.

Amelie’s 0.13 ha parcel was planted in 1973, and sits up close to Clos Saint Jacques. The famously cooling wind of the Combe de Lavaut helps this parcel through the wet growing season, and the fruit it yielded is really something wonderful. This is highly accomplished.

The 2024 Grasses Têtes is amazingly composed. We were obliged to taste it after the Bonnes Mares as it was the only cuvée that had been racked in autumn 2025. It held its own with an impressive presence in the glass. It is quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair. The domaine has an impressive 10 hectares in their home village of Marsannay. They bottle five separate cuvées, including this wonderful vineyard which sits at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its quirky name (meaning “fat heads”) refers to the large rocks that show through the surface of the clay soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, with the greatest tannic charge, recalling Gevrey-Chambertin. The assiduous handling of the 2024s plays to the innate structure of the vineyard with the elegance of the vintage.

This remarkable village lieu-dit sits directly above Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, and Bonnes Mares, and the Clair parcel is an extension of their lauded Bonnes Mares plot. It’s hard to believe this isn’t a premier cru, really. Up here there is virtually no top soil at all, and the vines plunge straight into the limestone bedrock. The wine has abundant blackberry and wild strawberry aromas, tightly-wound tannins, and a fragrant energy.

With a spicy, fresh structure, and a regal quality to the fruit, this is a highlight of the Clair cellar. It shows a suave power, and a cool, controlled, elegance. The Clairs are one of only five producers to share this revered premier cru, that many regard as equal to the Gevrey grands crus, which they refer to as ‘the Prince of Gevrey’. It is steep by Burgundian standards, with clay-rich soil. Just three barrels made in 2024.

This is crystalline and taut, with an astonishingly long finish. Clos de Bèze is a slightly steeper and warmer site than Chambertin next door, and the potential heights of complexity and concentration it can produce are remarkable. Most of the vines were planted in 1912, with the rest in the 1970s - affectionately, still referred to as the young vines.

This is a Bonnes Mares of distinction: it is the only part of the vineyard to fall within Morey-Saint-Denis (the rest is in Chambolle-Musigny). It is opulent and inviting on the nose, with a tender and deeply concentrated core. It is one of the most delicate iterations I’ve tasted from the Clairs, meaning it should open up in bottle ahead of previous vintages. However, its complexity and length assure me it will evolve well over time as well, so no need to rush if you can resist.

Pierre owns the last parcel of Latricières before Chambertin begins, and while attention is usually focused on his Clos de Bèze, this is quickly becoming as in-demand. It is suave, dark, and cool: somehow opulent and restrained at the same time.

This is fast becoming one of Burgundy’s most sought-after wines. The vineyard was planted in 1920, and you can feel the power of the old vines in the glass. It is intense and opulent, with plenty of spice on the nose. The palate is impeccably balanced, with vibrant acidity alongside an impressive mouthfeel. This is powerful, yet retains poise and elegance. It deserves plenty of time in the bottle.

Pierre has just 0.4 hectares in Charmes-Chambertin, which is divided into five separate parcels, two of which are on the border with Griotte-Chambertin, on more stony soils. The wine is always tightly coiled, with some noble austerity in its youth.

Duroché owns a sizable 1.2 hectare parcel of this premier cru, and it is arguably the cuvée that best defines the estate. There’s a coolness here, with dancing tannins and incredible purity. Lavaut balances a freshness, due to its position at the base of the Combe, with an opulence of fruit from the vineyard’s south facing aspect.