Côte de Nuits

This is one of the parcels that Cyprien and his team farm organically all year round and harvest themselves, under the négociant label. It is an excellent village lieu-dit at the southern end of Vosne, which a number of growers choose to bottle separately. It shows typical Vosne energy and power, with a bright length, and plenty in reserve.

This vineyard is at the north end of the village, on the border with grand cru, Mazoyères-Chambertin. The soils are high in limestone, and produce a wine that is rich in dark wild berries and clove spice, with a lean and persistent freshness.

This comes from various parcels the domaine owns around the village, mostly located on the Morey side. It shows a certain austerity, mingled with Chambolle’s signature texture: silky, dense, and refined.

This is a clear stand-out in the Arlaud cellar. It’s the most dramatic wine in the line up, outpacing the other grand cru with its grip and swagger. A truly great Clos de la Roche.

This comes from the very highest point of Mazoyères-Chambertin, which can also be labelled as Charmes-Chambertin. It has sensational volume with a crystalline purity driving through the finish.

Cyprien makes two Bourgognes, and this is the one that comes from the domaine’s single parcel which lies just beyond the village boundary of Gevrey-Chambertin, but a stone’s throw from the village’s grands crus. It is a fairly serious Bourgogne, with an expressive, chewy core to it, offering up the density of Gevrey, with the open fruit to drink well early. A graphite lift on the nose adds extra interest.

This vineyard sits just below Clos St-Denis, in the heart of the village, and offers up a deep and textured expression of Morey-St-Denis. It has an ethereal minty lift to the fruit. Good balance in its length.

This always delivers huge complexity from the start. It is so deep, and with such a sustained finish you’ll be thinking about it long after tasting.

This always delivers huge complexity from the start. It is so deep, and with such a sustained finish you’ll be thinking about it long after tasting.

Rousseau’s Gevrey might be their least grand cuvée, but it remains nevertheless one of the most sought-after wines, and a window onto their supreme style which can be drunk a little earlier than their premiers and grands crus.

Lavaux St Jacques is a lovely vineyard on the Combe de Lavaux which enjoys the cooling influence of the cold air drawn down the valley. The wine is chiselled and precise.

The Ruchottes always abounds with small red berry fruit, making it a lively and vibrant grand cru. It nevertheless has the gravitas of its grand cru status, and will evolved for many years in bottle.

Only five domaines own Clos St Jacques, and Rousseau’s wine is frequently at the pinnacle. This shows the complexity, suave power, and finesse of a grand cru, with incredible freshness.

With Richebourg and Cros Parantoux as neighbours, you can expect great things from this vineyard. Amélie has five separate plots across half a hectare (although she gives some of the production back to her aunt, so there is never ever enough to meet demand). The site is so steep and inaccessible that no tractors can reach it, and all work is done by horse or hand. She’s worked hard on this cuvée, which can tend towards reduction. Switching to concrete tanks for fermentation has helped, and the wine is now meeting its full potential.

Amelie’s 0.13 ha parcel was planted in 1973, and sits up close to Clos Saint Jacques. The famously cooling wind of the Combe de Lavaut helps this parcel through the wet growing season, and the fruit it yielded is really something wonderful. This is highly accomplished.

The 2024 Grasses Têtes is amazingly composed. We were obliged to taste it after the Bonnes Mares as it was the only cuvée that had been racked in autumn 2025. It held its own with an impressive presence in the glass. It is quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair. The domaine has an impressive 10 hectares in their home village of Marsannay. They bottle five separate cuvées, including this wonderful vineyard which sits at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its quirky name (meaning “fat heads”) refers to the large rocks that show through the surface of the clay soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, with the greatest tannic charge, recalling Gevrey-Chambertin. The assiduous handling of the 2024s plays to the innate structure of the vineyard with the elegance of the vintage.

This remarkable village lieu-dit sits directly above Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, and Bonnes Mares, and the Clair parcel is an extension of their lauded Bonnes Mares plot. It’s hard to believe this isn’t a premier cru, really. Up here there is virtually no top soil at all, and the vines plunge straight into the limestone bedrock. The wine has abundant blackberry and wild strawberry aromas, tightly-wound tannins, and a fragrant energy.

With a spicy, fresh structure, and a regal quality to the fruit, this is a highlight of the Clair cellar. It shows a suave power, and a cool, controlled, elegance. The Clairs are one of only five producers to share this revered premier cru, that many regard as equal to the Gevrey grands crus, which they refer to as ‘the Prince of Gevrey’. It is steep by Burgundian standards, with clay-rich soil. Just three barrels made in 2024.

This is crystalline and taut, with an astonishingly long finish. Clos de Bèze is a slightly steeper and warmer site than Chambertin next door, and the potential heights of complexity and concentration it can produce are remarkable. Most of the vines were planted in 1912, with the rest in the 1970s - affectionately, still referred to as the young vines.

This is a Bonnes Mares of distinction: it is the only part of the vineyard to fall within Morey-Saint-Denis (the rest is in Chambolle-Musigny). It is opulent and inviting on the nose, with a tender and deeply concentrated core. It is one of the most delicate iterations I’ve tasted from the Clairs, meaning it should open up in bottle ahead of previous vintages. However, its complexity and length assure me it will evolve well over time as well, so no need to rush if you can resist.

Pierre owns the last parcel of Latricières before Chambertin begins, and while attention is usually focused on his Clos de Bèze, this is quickly becoming as in-demand. It is suave, dark, and cool: somehow opulent and restrained at the same time.

This is fast becoming one of Burgundy’s most sought-after wines. The vineyard was planted in 1920, and you can feel the power of the old vines in the glass. It is intense and opulent, with plenty of spice on the nose. The palate is impeccably balanced, with vibrant acidity alongside an impressive mouthfeel. This is powerful, yet retains poise and elegance. It deserves plenty of time in the bottle.

Pierre has just 0.4 hectares in Charmes-Chambertin, which is divided into five separate parcels, two of which are on the border with Griotte-Chambertin, on more stony soils. The wine is always tightly coiled, with some noble austerity in its youth.

Duroché owns a sizable 1.2 hectare parcel of this premier cru, and it is arguably the cuvée that best defines the estate. There’s a coolness here, with dancing tannins and incredible purity. Lavaut balances a freshness, due to its position at the base of the Combe, with an opulence of fruit from the vineyard’s south facing aspect.

These old vines produce a distinctly powerful Gevrey, yet with the tenderness of the vintage to let you in. The parcel sits at the very northern edge of the village, and there is a brambly, grippy character to the structure.

Domaine Duroché can do no wrong these days. Everything Pierre Duroché touches turns to gold, from his village wine right up to his grands crus. This is a fantastic entry point to one of the most in-demand names in the region.

Les Cazetiers is situated right alongside Clos Saint-Jacques on the Combe de Lavaux. Its easterly exposure combined with cool, elevated position make for outstanding freshness in the wines. Lovely rose petal and Maraschino cherry notes on the nose, and fresh, intense palate: voluminous, creamy density, with velvety tannins.

This super monopole vineyard in the Côte Chalonnaise village of Mercurey is one of the bargains of Burgundy. It’s lively and juicy, with the freshness of the vintage serving it well. There is textural, red berry-fruited, with supple tannins and a gourmand finish. Miraculously, unravaged by the mildew of 2024.

This vineyard has been a family monopole since 1874. It is the domaine's flagship wine and one of just two Burgundian grands crus to bear the name of its owner (Romanée-Conti being the other). This is complex and fascinating, with sweet, smoky spice wrapping around concentrated red fruit, with long, mineral length.

Mazis is the most northern of the Gevrey grands crus, and is renowned for making some of the most seductive wines amongst them. The Faiveley plot benefits from some very old vines, some of which were planted in 1930. This is elegant and seductive, with a spicy, rich, lavishness about it.

Uniquely in 2024, the family combined their two premiers crus vineyards (Chaignots and Vignerondes) with their village parcel to make one wine, so drastically small was the crop in Nuits. The result is a massive success in terms of quality: slightly broader shouldered than the Vosne, with a deep and reverberating finish.

Ruchottes is a fairly small grand cru, just 3.3 hectares in total. The Mugneret-Gibourg parcel is in Ruchottes du Bas, and makes a beautiful wine, with chewy density and a luxurious, voluptuous finish. This is rightly regarded as a high-point in the Mugneret-Gibourg cellar.

This wonderful parcel sits just beneath the cluster of houses in the village centre. It makes such a sweetly-scented and elegant wine, with a brilliantly deep fruit core. Perfumed and spiced, with great tension.

This comes from just one parcel in Vosne-Romanée, planted in 1955, and for the past few years has sported the vineyard’s name, Les Lutenières, on its label. The wines are yielding such low volumes that the domaine is in the process of replanting, uprooting one quarter of the parcel at a time. The wine has a sweet density and deep, structured fruit, with profound persistence for a Bourgogne. It will easily age for a decade, which is not something you can say of every Bourgogne.

65% of the fruit comes from Rouges du Bas, the rest from the Quartier de Nuits section of the Echézeaux grand cru. It is one of the truly great cuvées from this cellar: elegant and balanced.

This might just be the best village Vosne out there. It comes from four parcels which host a variety of vine ages. The relatively high proportion of younger vines gives this cuvée an explosive, juicy structure. It is powerful and beautiful with silky tannins, and fresh red fruit, packing lots of energy.

Mugneret-Gibourg has just one parcel within this sizable grand cru, planted in 1954, just next to the château. It is one of the finest examples of the vineyard, with depth, structure, and complexity, red cherry fruit and a full-bodied length.

This comes from a single parcel just across the road from Chambolle-Musigny in Gilly-lès-Cîteaux, called Les Bons Bâtons. It is so red-fruited, with fragrant length, and lacy tannins. It feels more like a Chambolle than a Bourgogne, and comes with considerable ageing potential.

This vineyard lies right in the middle of the village in a small dip, making it a cool spot, giving it a freshness and energy. It has superb floral intensity, and a delicate restraint.

This wine’s power and energy dominate when young, and the promise of its future are clear to see when tasting from barrel. This is an exceptional Cras, with grand cru texture through and through. It’s the most structured wine in the cellar, and possibly the best, too.

You won’t find much better than this, at village level. This is a wine of terrific complexity and nuance, with much of the texture and nuance you can find in her premiers crus, just with a slightly more forward and open fruit, and lighter tannins. It comes from nine plots across the village, and shows wonderful definition.

This is one of the great Barthod cuvées, and Clément believes this year is a very good vintage for the cru: it suits a classical vintage with acidity. Ghislaine has always described it as a loyal friend - it’s always there with open arms, from youth right through to old age.

Unlike some Côteaux Bourguignons which are a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, this is 100% Gamay, from a parcel of very old vines the Grivots inherited via the Jayers, one of whom was married to Etienne’s father. Etienne says that Henri Jayer made him promise to never, ever rip out these vines. He has kept his word, and it is a superb start to the range.

Aux Lavières is tucked just beneath premier cru Aux Murgers, on the Vosne side of the appellation, and as a result it’s a major step up on your regular village cuvée. It shows salty violet notes this year, with a long energetic finish.

The Grivots have a substantial single parcel in Clos de Vougeot, which is easy to spot, with its magnificent gate on the roadside. But when they only harvested 7 hectolitres per hectare, there is not much to go around this year. This reduced volume, however, has given what little wine was made an intensity and precise concentration. The small berries ripened perfectly at the end of the season, and the wines shows a finely woven texture, with both power and length. Blood orange and violets perfume the nose, with a little tobacco spice and pepper on the palate.

This is one of the most in-demand wines in Burgundy, and with good reason. It is truly grand cru in stature: profound, complex, with supreme length. Just two barrels made in 2024.

This wine has earned a strong following for its consistently superb quality. It is suave and intense, with an opulent freshness. It finishes with a lingering aromatic note.

This is always one of the prettiest wines in the Grivot cellar. In 2024 only four barrels were made. There is a sweet balance between the graceful tannins and red berry fruit, with fresh drive and an elegant body.