Côte de Nuits

Cyprien makes two Bourgognes, and this is the one that comes from the domaine’s single parcel which lies just beyond the village boundary of Gevrey-Chambertin, but a stone’s throw from the village’s Grands Crus. It is a fairly serious Bourgogne, with an expressive, chewy core to it, offering up the density of Gevrey, with the open fruit to drink well from early on.

This comes from various parcels the domaine owns around the village, mostly located on the Morey side of the village. It shows a certain austerity, mingled with Chambolle’s signature texture: silky, dense, and refined.

This is one of the parcels that Cyprien and his team farm organically all year round and harvest themselves, under the négociant label. It is an excellent village lieu-dit at the southern end of Vosne, which a number of growers choose to bottle separately. It shows lots of energy and power, with a bright length, with plenty in reserve.

Cyprien makes two Bourgognes, and this is the one that comes from the domaine’s single parcel which lies just beyond the village boundary of Gevrey-Chambertin, but a stone’s throw from the village’s Grands Crus. It is a fairly serious Bourgogne, with an expressive, chewy core to it, offering up the density of Gevrey, with the open fruit to drink well from early on.

Strictly limited to 6 bottles per customer

Fixin doesn’t have any Grand Crus, but in Amélie’s eyes, this is the greatest site in the village. It has very shallow soils, and the vines, now aged 30-80 years old, dig deep. The wine is fragrant and dancing, with agile freshness and sweet energy. Defined, characterful, and the work of a winemaker at the top of her game.

Coming from a tiny 0.21-hectare parcel of vines planted in the 1930's in the areas called Quartier de Nuits and Treux, this Echezeaux has a deep brooding intensity of dark cherry, subtle incense notes, black tea which gradually awakens in the glass. With some time and air a more floral side opens up with peony and dried violet petals. Quite muscular yet also with no sense of excess this has a sparkling intensity and such length on the finish.

With Richebourg and Cros Parantoux as neighbours, you can expect great things from this vineyard. Amélie has five separate plots across half a hectare (although she gives some of the production back to her aunt, so there is never ever enough to meet demand). The site is so steep and inaccessible that no tractors can reach it, and all work is done by horse or hand. The 2023 has impressive depth, flow and purity to the fruit. She’s worked hard on this cuvée, which could tend towards reduction. Switching to concrete tanks for fermentation has helped, and the potential of quality here is already easy to see tasting from barrel. So persistent, with Vosne’s powerful, velvet-like tannins.

Amelie’s 0.13 ha parcel was planted in 1973, and is not quite central — closer to the Clos Saint Jacques side than it is to the Combe de Lavaut side. She describes it as “fresh for the future”, as it revels in the wind from the Combe de Lavaut. She used 50% whole-bunch in 2023 and the result is elegant and airy red fruit with supple, fine-grained tannins. Accompanied by impressive power and drive through the slightly toasty finish.

Strictly limited to 6 bottles per customer

Amélie made one cuvée of village Gevrey in 2023. A blend of 2 vineyards, a large part coming from ‘Combe du Dessus’ - combining grapes from cooler and warmer sites to give balance, ripeness and freshness. The result is a wonderfully floral and lifted wine, with silky, smooth tannins and refined, pure red fruit.

The domaine has an impressive 10 hectares in their home village of Marsannay. They bottle five separate cuvées, including the wonderful Grasses Têtes, which sits at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its quirky name (meaning “fat heads”) refers to the large rocks that show through the surface of the clay soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, with the greatest tannic charge, recalling Gevrey-Chambertin. The 2023 has a fragrant and salty dynamism. This is quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair, and a top contender for promotion to Premier Cru status.

This remarkable village lieu-dit sits directly above Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, and Bonnes Mares, and the Clair parcel is an extension of their lauded Bonnes Mares plot. It’s hard to believe this isn’t a premier cru, really. Up here there is virtually no top soil at all, and the vines plunge straight into the limestone bedrock. The wine has abundant blackberry and wild strawberry aromas, tightly-wound tannins, and a fragrant energy.

This clos is a monopole of the domaine found right at the centre point of Gevrey, next to Ruchottes-Chambertin. It always produces grapes with millerandage (small berries) and so the wine has an intense concentration and exquisite finesse. It’s all red-fruited power and mineral length, typical of senior Gevrey terroirs. The 2023 boasts an alluring nose of sappy black cherries, red currants, and on the palate there are silky supple tannins that add to the structure of bright acidity and textural finish.

This is a Bonnes Mares of distinction: it is the only part of the vineyard to fall within Morey-Saint-Denis (the rest is in Chambolle-Musigny). It is muscular, yet tender, with a deep and concentrated core. There is an unbelievable length on display here, with a finish that fans out across the palate.

Located in the northern part of the appellation, and the largest of Duroche’s lieu-dit bottlings this is a blend of plots, one planted in 1969 and the other in 1973, both on limestone and blue marl soils. There is the muscularity you might expect from a Gevrey but also a tenderness and supple energy to the dark cherry fruit on the palate. This has a lift of white pepper spice and incense with a subtle note of liquorice root on the finish. Very fine.

This vineyard has been a family monopole since 1874. It is the domaine's flagship wine and one of just two Burgundian Grands Crus to bear the name of its owner (Romanée-Conti being the other). This is a lifted and silky wine in 2023, with savoury spices wrapped around sapid red fruits, and a brilliant energy driving it all the way through to the finish. Simply superb.

This special cuvée comes from the oldest vines in Faiveley’s Clos de Bèze holding, and was first produced in 2011. The name is an homage to the family’s connection with the artist, Rodin, and the cuvée is only ever produced in tiny quantities. Powerful, deep, and dramatic. This will reward the patient.

Faiveley are the largest landowner in this fêted corner of Chambertin, with three parcels to their name. It is one of the consistently most complex wines in their range, and offers staggering ageing potential. In 2023, aromas of rose petal and sapid red berries combine leading to gorgeously, silky tannins, and a long, fine, spicy finish on the palate.

Mazis is the most northern of the Gevrey Grands Crus, and is renowned for making some of the most seductive wines amongst them. The Faiveley plot benefits from some very old vines, some of which were planted in 1930. This is elegant and alluring, with a spicy, rich, lavishness about it.

Made since 2018, this cuvée comes from a plot of an area of 0.30 hectares situated just below Le Rognet. This is quite a muscular wine this year with both red and dark cherry fruits mingling with subtle wood spice and liquorice root. While full of energy at the moment it is also immensely expressive giving a promise of a long life ahead.

Nicole has three parcels within this Grand Cru, one in the northwest corner (where everyone wants to be) tucked up next to Musigny. The three add complexity and layers to the finished wine. This is so lively with some dried herbs, white pepper and coffee grounds that lead to distinctly red berry fruit on the palate. The tannin is fine-grained with an athletic feel that promises a long life ahead.

This might just be the best village Vosne out there. It comes from four parcels which host a variety of vine ages. The relatively high proportion of younger vines gives this cuvée an explosive, juicy structure. It is powerful, elegant and beautiful with silky tannins, and fresh red fruit, packing lots of energy.

This wonderful parcel sits just beneath the cluster of houses in the village centre. It makes such a sweetly-scented and elegant wine, with a brilliantly deep fruit core. Perfumed and spiced, with great tension.

This well-positioned vineyard on the Vosne side of the appellation sits on the slope, enjoying plenty of sunshine and the cooling ventilation of a constant breeze, keeping the fruit in excellent health during the growing season. The vineyard is on the border with Vosne-Romanée and the wine shows so much of its neighbour’s finesse as well as concentration, with Nuits’ bite and grip. Utterly charming.

Ruchottes is a fairly small Grand Cru, just 3.3 hectares in total. The Mugneret-Gibourg parcel is in Ruchottes du Bas, and makes a beautiful wine, with chewy density and a luxurious, voluptuous finish. This is rightly regarded as a high-point in the Mugneret-Gibourg cellar.

Attractive nose showing a little pineapple, citrus and white fruits. Juicy on the palate, supple with a delicate mineral quality and a crisp finish. Easy-going style and delicious.

The Hautes-Côtes de Nuits is proving a popular spot for growers in Vosne who are looking for wines that are a little more forward, accessible, and with vibrant freshness, as is the case in this excellent example.

Maxime’s lightness of touch combined with Nuits-St-George’s naturally muscular style make for a compelling village wine. It has a dark cherry fruit core, with the density to ensure a long drinking window.

This comes from nine different parcels and simply put, you won’t find much better than this at village level. This is a wine of terrific complexity and refinement, with much of the texture and nuance you can find in her Premiers Crus, just with a slightly more forward and open fruit, and lighter tannins. Wild cherry, rosehip and liquorice root mingle on the palate with an athletic tension on the finish.

This vineyard lies right in the middle of the village in a small dip, making it a cool spot, giving it an edge in warmer years. The vines are now 40 years old, and are really hitting their stride. This has beautiful focus and perfume with aromas of cherry blossom and wild strawberry fruit. There is no excess here, only charm. The finish has purity and nuance that expands with time.

This comes from an astonishing 18 different parcels, many clustered around the village of Chambolle-Musigny. It shows a huge amount of concentration for a Bourgogne, with intense berry fruit and glossy tannins.

Aux Lavières is tucked just beneath premier cru Aux Murgers, on the Vosne side of the appellation, and as a result it’s a major step up on your regular village cuvée. This wine opens with flavours of black cherry, violets with a creamy, caressing feel on the palate. The finish is very detailed with dark berry fruits and a little liquorice.

The clay soils on the south side of Nuits result in a wine with a little more intensity and cherry fruit that wraps across the palate. There is a supple feel to the tannins here with real energy and freshness to match. The finish is finely detailed with subtle notes of wild herbs and liquorice root.

This wine is made from a blend of thirteen different parcels across the village, and the result is a wonderfully complete and complex portrait of Vosne. This offers fruit and fragrance in equal measure with aromas of violets, and ripe cherry notes with hints of pomegranate. The texture is silky with a vibrant line of acidity.

Unlike some Côteaux Bourguignons which are a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, this is 100% Gamay, from a parcel of very old vines that the Grivots inherited via the Jayers, one of whom was married to Etienne’s father. Etienne says that Henri Jayer made him promise to never, ever rip out these vines. He has kept his word, and it is now one of the wines that Etienne is most animated about in their whole cellar. Charming, earthy and brimming with bright dark cherry fruit, this is so easy to love.

The Grivots have a substantial 1.86-hectare single parcel in Clos de Vougeot, which is easy to spot, with its magnificent gate on the roadside. The wine is finely woven, detailed and poised, with both power and length. Violets, incense, red cherry fruit mingle on the palate with a charm that is irresistible right now but a structure that promises to repay cellaring.

This parcel came to Alix through her mother’s family. Les Suchots is a decent sized Premier Cru (13ha), and shared amongst many of the finest growers of its village. Yet it’s often Alix’s Suchots that steals the show. Her 2023 has the vineyard’s broad-shoulders, with a complex and elegant layering of fruit and tannin building to a powerful and fresh finale.

Clos de Vougeot is a huge vineyard, so it matters where you’re placed. Alix Millot’s plot is in Grand Maupertui, which borders Grands-Echézeaux, often considered the finest part of the vineyard. It’s a big, vibrant wine, with spiciness, dark cherry, and salty minerality.

This single vineyard Côtes de Nuits-Village is a true cut above its classification. Every year it comes out as a team favourite for the character, precision, and quality it delivers for the price. In 2023 its 25% whole-bunch fruit gives it peppery fragrance, with a gliding silkiness on the palate. It outplays many wines from grander communes every year, and 2023 is no exception.

This parcel sits just under one of Nuits-St-Georges’ most celebrated Premiers Crus, Les Vaucrains. It has a more refined structure than the straight village cuvée. It has concentrated, dark fruit, and some lifted aromatics. Quiet power and great energy.

This Premier Cru neighbours Richebourg, and has a lot of limestone in the soil. This gives the wine great definition and drive on the palate. As ever, it is quite a broad-shouldered wine, with good stature promising ageing potential. But there is also Vosne’s classic velvet power in the fruit, matched with some toasty oak.

This large seven-hectare vineyard in the hills above Nuits-St-Georges is a monopole of the Michel Gros domaine, and offers up great value from the Vosne grower. It has wonderful limestone soils, similar to those found on the hill of Corton, though with a much fresher climate, thanks to its elevation. The vines were planted in the 1970s and 1980s, and at full maturity are producing great concentration, leading to interesting and complex layers in the wine. It has great black cherry density with a slight chalkiness to the finish in 2023 and a firm tannic backbone.

This vineyard is a monopole of the estate which has been in the hands of the family since 1860. Where the Brûlées is firm and structured, Clos de Réas is more lithe and supple, with silky tannins and a sophisticated flavour palette of blood oranges, crushed raspberries, and smoky spice. Alluring.

2023 is the second vintage we see Richebourg under the Michel Gros label. The vines were returned to this branch of the Gros family from Gros Frères et Soeurs, and it now falls to Pierre Gros to bottle what is one of the most incredible parcels in the whole of Burgundy. This 2023 was magnificent. The statuesque character of the vineyard was on fine display with power and grace aligned, even in the young wine still in barrel. It should reward the patient.

Maxime casually shows his Nuits village after his Vosne Premier Cru when you taste the full line up in his cellar: that says really quite a lot. When you taste it you understand why. This is a sensational Nuits-St-Georges. Aux Barrièrres is a vineyard on the northern side of the appellation located just above the vineyard of Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas. From the domaine’s own vines, in 2023 Maxime destemmed all the fruit, and the resulting wine is so elegant and fine, with aromatic purity of liquorice and cherry blossom and gorgeous, fluid energy. Very detailed, this is classical Burgundy through and through.

This vineyard between Chambolle-Musigny and Gilly-lès-Citeaux is one of the best parcels of Bourgogne in the Côte-de-Nuits. Neighbour Ghislaine Barthod’s Bourgogne Rouge is another exceptional example of this vineyard. It’s a beautifully perfumed Bourgogne with a lacy texture to the tannins and excellent concentration thanks to the vineyard's tendency to millerandages (small berries). Like Ghislaine’s, you can cellar this with confidence.

Under the domaine label since 2022 the village Vosne is a blend of three small parcels – around a quarter of fruit coming from Aux Raviolles and La Croix Blanches and the remaining half from Les Hauts Beaux Monts. The average vine age across the three parcels is 50 years. The wine delivers rounded, fleshy dark cherry fruits, with accents of fresh earth and violets, with a caressing texture to the tannins.

This vineyard is planted with very old vines, and they produce a wine of incredible substance and precision. Using 25% whole bunches the wine shows a certain seriousness, density and texture. A little note of aniseed and violet with exceptionally fine tannin on the palate, this is a wine that shows both the complexity and accessibility of the vintage.

There can’t be many village parcels with a better position than this. Indeed, the bottom half of the vineyard is Premier Cru. The top half runs above Les Fuées and meets with Bonnes-Mares at its northern edge. The soil is shallow and in 2023 the grapes were fully destemmed which helps to deliver a real sense of purity and elegance. This is a lively, and detailed Chambolle with notes of rosehip, red cherry fruit and a little white pepper on the finish.

Although they account for a minute percentage of overall production, the white wines of Nuits-St-Georges have a proud history. Interestingly, Pinot Blanc, as well as Chardonnay, is permitted under the AOC, and this cuvée from the Rions has a little dash in the blend. This is from a 1.21-hectare plot at the top of the slope, close to the domaine, with chalky soils. It’s zesty and fragrant, with peachy stone fruit and white blossom intertwined. With only around 5% new oak, this is a delicious, floral, and saline white which matches the calibre of the estate’s fantastic range of reds.

These vines are around 60 years old and come from four parcels on the southern side of Chambolle, which Maxime gives a very representative snapshot of the village. This really captures everything you would hope for in a Chambolle, with a sense of charm and delicacy. The wine offers fine, fresh cut summer berries on the nose, with a lift of crushed rose petal on the finish.

This is one of the most complete Gevrey village wines you will find: nine parcels scattered around the village which are vinified in three parts. One part comes from the light stony soil at the bottom of the valley, giving a cool elegance; the second is a cluster of parcels in the middle of the village on clay soil, giving body and structure; the third is a group of parcels below the Grands Crus, giving a complexity and finesse. The vines are all aged between 46 and 86 years, and the concentration and nuance this wine delivers for the price is hard to beat. It is an elegant, polished wine in 2023, intricately structured with layers of concentration leading to a fine, poised finish.

This is the only parcel the domaine bottles separately from the other Gevrey village parcels. That is thanks to its incredible position, and the consistency of quality it delivers every year. It is sandwiched between grands crus Charmes-Chambertin and Griotte-Chambertin. It’s almost unbelievable it’s only a village lieu-dit. The Rossignol-Trapet vines lie right alongside the Joseph Roty Charmes Vieilles Vignes parcel, but the soil is more like Griotte-Chambertin just to the north. The nose displays attractive floral/red fruit aromas, and there’s an abundance of depth within the well-formed tannins, offering supporting structure to the wine. Long and persistent.

This is one of the handful of Côte de Beaune parcels the domaine inherited from their Rossignol roots in Volnay. Their vines sit at the very top of the cru, in the vineyard’s sweet spot between Aux Cras and Les Grèves. The red stony soil and sunny exposition here make a silky, sweet-scented style of wine. It’s a wine that is vibrant and inviting in its youth, with plenty of depth and energy to the fruit in 2023, slightly crunchy tannins, freshness, and a detailed, sapid, smooth length.

The clay soils of this well-placed parcel produce a wine of depth and roundness. Like the Etelois, there is some black fruit mingled in with the red, and an expressive, aromatic depth. The tannins provide a little more grip than the village wines, and will demand a few more years in the cellar.

Strictly limited to 6 bottles per customer

Cool air comes down the valley between Morey-St-Denis and Gevrey-Chambertin, meaning Latricières is a little slower to mature than the other Gevrey Grands Crus. The wine shows tender, sweet red fruit on the nose with a lick of blood orange, with a more serious, savoury palate and supple, silky tannins. Elegant and refined already, with some age this will take on even more depth and weight.

This was the first parcel they converted to biodynamics in 1997, so this lovely vineyard in Gevrey-Chambertin has now benefitted from over two decades of low-intervention farming. It is also planted with a north/south orientation, and has fared well in the recent series of warm vintages. 2023 is no departure. Pretty aromatics, elegant depth and purity to the fruit and a delightfully long, fresh finish. A highlight.

Rossignol-Trapet owns two very fine parcels of this outstanding Grand Cru. The vines were mostly planted in the 1950s, with a small section of young vines planted in 2000, and another small section planted way back in 1919. This is such a handsome Grand Cru, with magnificent structure and length. It builds and builds, and offers buyers long ageing potential. Elegant, detailed and precise.

As one should expect from a Morey grower, this village wine is a cracker. It’s a blend of two parcels, Les Congées and Clos Solon, with an average vine age of nearly 60 years. The deeper clay soils in these parcels means the vines are well protected against summer heat. It has that classic Morey character: black fruit and spice, density and precision, with a delicately wild edge.

Faconnières is one of the great terroirs of Morey, sitting just below Clos de la Roche. The fruit is energetic and fresh, spanning the red berry spectrum, with a hint of black fruit in 2023. The palate is bright, mineral and poised, with an impressive volume and structure. Is this the best value Premier Cru red on the list?

Stéphane’s parcel of 65-year-old vines lies right in the heart of the old Clos, the original part of the appellation. With such an amazing terroir, Stéphane comments that ‘70% of the job is done’! It shows delicate salinity and fragrant fruit depth. Understated but hugely impressive.

This vineyard has the unusual honour of spanning Grand Cru (Clos de la Roche), Premier Cru, and village. Stéphane’s parcel lies right in the middle of the lieu-dit, and thus the Premier Cru sector. It’s made in tiny volumes, and is as brilliant as it is scarce.

This Premier Cru is one of Chambolle’s finest, right on the border with Morey, just beneath Bonnes Mares. A quarter of the vines are extremely old, having been planted in 1902, with the rest between 1950 and 1980. It shows great depth and intensity, a fine tapestry of tannins weaving through the Chambolle fruit. Very long and saline on the finish.

This was a new addition to the Cathiard cellar in 2021. This comes from 3 different parcels. The 2023 shows fine balance - plenty of rich, red fruit concentration laced with spicy and toasty notes.

This comes from a parcel between Gevrey-Chambertin and Vosne-Romanée, and contains 30% Gamay and 70% Pinot Noir. It is full of sweet spice and intricate red berry fruits with a lovely long, elegant finish. The cuvée is a recent addition of Sébastien’s to bolster the estate he inherited from his father, Sylvain.

This always feels slightly richer than the Chaumes, with some decadent yet fresh berry depth and complex, weighted length. The cuvée is a recent addition of Sébastien’s to bolster the estate he inherited from his father, Sylvain.

This is the flagship wine of the estate, and the one on which its considerable reputation has been built. Often the most closed in youth, it has the power and structure to evolve magnificently with time. Phenomenally complex and compelling.

This is as fine a village Vosne as you’re likely to find. It comes from five parcels in four different sites, giving a rounded portrait of the commune. It is spicy, fragrant, and incredibly long, with a fragrant, lingering quality.

This is from the original domaine inherited by Sébastien from Sylvain, and always over-delivers. You get the style and swagger of the Cathiard signature, with the open, accessible fruit of Bourgogne Rouge. It’s got abundant red berry notes on the nose, with a toasty kick from the new oak, and a long, satisfying length.

This is a blend of several parcels in the hills above Vosne-Romanée with vines aged between 10 and 70 years. It is floral, bright and charming, with an abundance of intricate red berry fruit. The cuvée is a recent addition of Sébastien’s to bolster the estate he inherited from his father, Sylvain.

The heart of the domaine lies in Gevrey, and their village wine is one any keen follower of the estate should be familiar with. It comes from seven parcels around the village, including La Justice, Forneaux, and Clos Prieur Bas. It has a tendency to display beautiful cherry fruit characters, and in 2023 it is a paradigm pinot. A well-judged amount of whole-bunch adds just a hint of floral lift.

Tuvilains is a lovely vineyard on the Pommard side of the town. In 2023 the wine is tightly wound, with grippy, compact tannins, and a fresh cherry bite. It will need some time to come around in bottle but will reward the patient.