Côte de Beaune

Amongst a strong lineup of Premiers Crus in David’s cellar, this is always our favourite. It comes from a parcel with a hard limestone bedrock, producing a wine that is marked by its surprising suppleness. In 2023 David used around 10-15% whole bunch – this is a wine marked by vibrancy and minerality. A tense core of red cherry fruit lifts to reveal a Pinot of real finesse with a saline finish.

Les Hâtes sits in the middle of the village, surrounded by Premiers Crus on well-draining red-tinged soil. It is an early-ripening terroir that makes for a floral, ethereal style of Pinot with lovely proportions. David uses around 10% whole bunches and aims to focus on the floral character as a natural expression of the site which David sees emerge every year. A compelling introduction to Santenay with bright, red berry fruits and a lick of blood orange on the juicy finsh.

Maranges is the final limit of the Côte d’Or, and a source of crunchy, great value reds, if you follow the right grower. This is actually a blend of village and premier cru fruit (from 1er Cru Clos Rousseau), which David declassifies to give his village Maranges more volume and quality. The name Gryphée is a type of fossilised mollusc found within the limestone soil. This year David used around 15% whole bunches which has given a little peppery lift to the charming dark cherry fruit tinged with crushed violets. Lithe and supple, this is a great buy.

Charles Ballot is making some of the greatest Chardonnays in Burgundy these days, and his Bourgogne Blanc is an excellent place to get a taste of the style on offer at this address. 70% of the fruit is sourced from his home village of Meursault, with the balance coming from Puligny-Montrachet. It was easily one of the best Bourgogne Blancs we tasted this vintage.

This is one of our most in-demand Bourgogne Blancs, and with good reason. It’s a window onto the style of one of the Côte de Beaune’s hottest winemakers of the moment. It’s energetic, and fresh, with a burst of pure citrus fanning out across the palate - the epitome of refreshing, balanced, and delicious Burgundy. The fruit comes from various parcels all within the Chassagne commune. As with all his wines, Alex looks for energy rather than too much ripeness in his Bourgogne. You will never regret having a few bottles of this in the cellar.

The name of this cuvée refers to the winemaking technique which differs by using the vertical press: a type of press used from the middle ages until the 1960’s, when it was replaced by the horizontal press (mechanical and pneumatic). The vertical press marks the style of this wine, with bags of concentration and complexity. It comes from the “Montagne de Cras” plot in Nantoux. “Cras”, or “Crag” in Celtic, means pebbles and the soil is very varied, stony but also full of clay. The 4-hectare plot is made up of 3 hectares of vines and 1 hectare of a natural biodiversity area: scree slopes, hedges, orchards, limestone grasslands with numerous orchids and rare trees. A precise, intense nose of orange rind, honey, and white blossom, is followed by a taut, poised and dynamic palate with well-integrated oak. It is showing a touch of spice amongst the fresh, tropical fruit and is very persistent on the finish. Excellent.

New to our range for 2023, this comes from 2 parcels at the top of the hill near En Bignon, lying at 421 metres above sea-level. It is fermented in 500 and 600-litre barrels, and has a pure and open nose showing hints of white peach and honeysuckle. The palate is expertly balanced, slickly textural and focussed all the way through the slightly, spicy, saline finish. Wow.

This is a new addition to the list in 2023: we just couldn’t resist. It’s made from old vine Gamay grown on the steep slopes of Nantoux (true to its name, unlike many other Coteaux Bourguignons which are grown on the flat plains on the other side of the route nationale). It was vinified with 50% whole-bunch fruit, gently handled in the cellar with low extraction. Some of the vines are ninety-years-old, and the concentration and kick this gives to the wine is notable. It’s gorgeous: juicy, fruit-forward, and joyful. Don’t miss this little rocket.

Le Clou is a single vineyard in Nantoux sitting at a precise 377 metres elevation. Its soil is similar to Volnay, with chalky, rocky topsoil over limestone marl bedrock. 90% whole-bunch has been used to great effect here: it has a fine, elegant aroma of maraschino cherries and cinnamon spice, with silky tannins and impressive concentration on the poised finish. 100% 1 year old oak - this is the wine that Boris is making to try and elevate / demonstrate what he is doing in the Hautes-Côtes.

Le Clou is a single vineyard in Nantoux sitting at a precise 377 metres elevation. Its soil is similar to Volnay, with chalky, rocky topsoil over limestone marl bedrock. 90% whole-bunch has been used to great effect here: it has a fine, elegant aroma of maraschino cherries and cinnamon spice, with silky tannins and impressive concentration on the poised finish. 100% 1 year old oak - this is the wine that Boris is making to try and elevate / demonstrate what he is doing in the Hautes-Côtes.

The Bignon parcel has red clay soil, not dissimilar to that found in pockets of Pommard. It usually produces an easy-going, fruit-forward wine, but the excellent structure found in this 2023 is striking. It still has the signature smooth fruit, but with fine, lightly chalky tannins from well-handled 60% whole-bunch fruit. The 20% new oak rounds out the concentrated cherry character.

This comes from a blend of the domaine’s young vines with a small dash of extremely old vines, from multiple parcels scattered around the village of Nantoux. It has a crunchy acidity giving it a fresh profile, which is twinned with the rose petal and ripe raspberry character. Whole-bunch has been upped to 60% in 2023 giving it a spiced, graceful length on the finish.

A serious Bourgogne Blanc: it comes from parcels across Santenay and St-Aubin, ripe peach and lemony fruit on the mid-palate paves the way for a long finish. It is delicious and refreshing.

This is a fantastic example of village Chassagne, with attractive nectarine fruit character and an expressive, bright palate. It gets its intensity from the old vines (some are approaching 70 years) from nine parcels scattered across the village. A smattering of new oak gives it structure and support. Long and satisfying finish.

En Remilly sits at the meeting point of three villages: Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, and St-Aubin. The larger part of it falls within St-Aubin, with the tiny part on the Chassagne side enjoying a superb position - next to Chevalier-Montrachet and just above Le Montrachet. At 300m altitude, with very little topsoil, Bruno’s two parcels (one of which touches Chevalier-Montrachet) make a magnificent wine: concentrated, opulent, mineral and energetic, with a precision you only find in Chardonnay grown on limestone.

This is the most linear and precise of Bruno’s Premiers Crus, with a zippy line running through the palate. It is tightly mineral and intricate, and in fact, feels quite a lot like a Puligny, yet there is a depth and texture to the fruit that draws you back to Chassagne. Saline and enduring in the finish. Outstanding.

Strictly limited to 6 bottles per customer

This Premier Cru shares borders with two Grands Crus: Le Montrachet and Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet. It takes its name from the white, chalky soils found here, and it delivers everything in the glass you might expect from such a superb position and soil-type. It displays white blossom and stone fruit aromatics on the nose, with outstanding concentration following on the palate. It is the most complex of the Premiers Crus in Bruno’s cellar, but only made in tiny volumes since the parcel is so small and the vines bear such low yields. It is a captivating wine with impeccable balance in 2023.

Strictly limited to 6 bottles per customer

2023 is the second year back in production of this magnificent site since Bruno replanted the old vines he inherited from his father. Les Demoiselles is a tiny Premier Cru, sandwiched between Chevalier-Montrachet, Le Montrachet, and Bâtard-Montrachet. It is classically Puligny on the nose - mineral, nervous, with fruit concentration. The palate is immediately opulent, concentrated and subtly exotic. The vibrant freshness means the wine culminates in a long salty finish. This will go the distance in the cellar for those patient enough to keep it.

Matured in 600-litre demi-muids without batonnage, this new négoce cuvée is the epitome of balance. There’s plenty of pure, ripe yellow orchard fruit, a pretty texture and a mineral, fresh finish.

The grapes for this new négoce cuvée come from just south of the Montagne de Beaune, on the border with the forest. Energetic, and packed full of fresh yet ripe citrus fruit. This is joyous and offers excellent value.

This is a secret gem to know about. It’s made from a blend of young vine fruit and some incredible 95-year old Aligoté Doré grown in Meursault, whose tiny, golden berries are packed with vibrant flavours. The 2023 shows brilliant freshness, with verve and salinity. It’s one of our favourite whites from the region, and finds its way into our cellars every year.

100% de-stemmed fruit from Nolay, near Maranges goes into this tiny production new négoce cuvée. Light, bright, pretty with pure red fruit. This is delightful.

The grapes for this new négoce cuvée come from Saint-Sernin-du-Plain, next to Maranges. Vibrant, and packed full of pretty, floral red fruit with supple tannins. 40% whole bunch gives this a wonderful, spritely lift.

This gourmand, full-bodied and elegant wine is one of the sweet spots of the Comte Armand stable, with hints of cassis, sapid, black cherry and sweet spice. It is a blend of two vineyards in Auxey: 70% Les Bréterins and 30% Les Duresses. Bréterins is steep and well-draining, with limestone soils contributing savoury elegance; Duresses is clay-based and builds power and body in the wine. It has the structure for good ageing potential, though it is still fragrant and inviting in its youth. A standout in 2023.

Auxey-Duresses is a relatively unknown village of the Côte de Beaune, tucked up above Meursault, next to Monthelie, on the way to St-Romain. This anonymity is in spite of its association with Lalou Bize-Leroy. Comte Armand's vines - in lieu-dit Largillas - sit just above her Les Clous vines. Largillas gives the most spectacular views of the pretty village, and have an enviable mid-slope position for a village parcel. It is always one of the best value and most characterful reds on our list. In 2023 it has a nervous, vibrant energy, with brilliant concentration and a fresh and juicy body.

Les Frémiets sits on the border with Pommard, and the wine often shows the character of both villages. It is the most fine-boned, and restrained wine in the cellar this year, its charm derived from its elegant restraint. Its high proportion of old vines make a concentrated and deep wine. This is a polished, refined, and soulful Volnay. Another highlight in 2023.

This Volnay is so balanced and complete. Pillowy, gently spiced red fruit leads to a silky, aromatically complex palate, spiced through with fresh wild strawberry fruit. It is a blend of two parcels, Les Famines and Les Grands Champs, in the centre of the commune. There is a touch of sweetly-scented dry extract, making it both tender and mineral.

This is an important vineyard both in terms of its size (5.23 hectares) and its historical stock of 100+ year old vines. The concentration here, in 2023, is exquisite. It is another great example of the Clos and one of the finest we have tasted - another chance for Paul Zinetti, régisseur, to rewrite the old trope that Pommard is muscular and rustic only. Instead this is powerful, svelte, profound, and intense. It is truly one of the greatest vineyards of the Côte de Beaune.

This is an important vineyard both in terms of its size (5.23 hectares) and its historical stock of 100+ year old vines. The concentration here, in 2023, is exquisite. It is another great example of the Clos and one of the finest we have tasted - another chance for Paul Zinetti, régisseur, to rewrite the old trope that Pommard is muscular and rustic only. Instead this is powerful, svelte, profound, and intense. It is truly one of the greatest vineyards of the Côte de Beaune.

Chassagne-Montrachet is a favourite in 2023, and Fontaine-Gagnard is a domaine to follow. This is a gorgeous wine: quintessentially Chassagne with its deliciously sleek, nutty fruit, and perfectly pitched new oak (20%). It abounds with ripe, pithy lemon that leads to a chiselled texture on the palate, and a long, appetising, saline finish. It’s a benchmark Chassagne from one of our favourite producers, and once again a smart buy in 2023.

Criots is a tiny Grand Cru, just one and a half hectares, making Fontaine-Gagnard one of the largest owners, with one third of a hectare. The south-east-facing slope, with poor limestone soils, yields a wine with superb power and tension. But this is only achieved when the parcel is picked at just the right moment. Céline says she watches it like a hawk, catching it before the fruit ripens into the tropical spectrum.

This is one of many Volnay Premiers Crus that Marc-Olivier has at his fingertips. The site’s generous topsoil makes for a wine of appealing charm, marking it out as one of the earliest drinking of the Buffet Volnay Premiers Crus. The fruit is completely destemmed, and the wine has a fleshy, succulent texture on the palate. There is a slight ferrous note with accents of wild herbs and liquorice root. The silky red and dark berry fruit wrap around the palate leading to a bright and graceful finish.

This is arguably the greatest site in Volnay. Marc-Olivier is lucky to have two parcels here. The ‘young vines’ are a mere 50 years old, and the old vines even more venerable. This year the grapes are totally destemmed and there is a natural concentration and complexity from the old vines offering small, tight bunches. The wine has a beautiful, sinewy structure with accents of cherry blossom and detailed hedgerow fruit on the finish. Refreshing and very fine.

This Village level Volnay comes from two parcels: the evocatively named Les Famines, whose paucity of soil makes the roots dig deep; and a small dash of the tiny lieu-dit, La Gigotte, which lifts this village wine up a notch. As always, this is entirely destemmed, showing all the accessibility and charm of this vintage. The wine offers ripe dark cherry fruit, violets and a lift of allspice. The tannin is very fine-grained and fluid on the palate with a delicate salinity on the finish.

It is well worth following Olivier’s reds, particularly in recent vintages. This vineyard had previously been owned by M. Duvault-Blochet, former owner of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Today, high density planting and organic farming mean low yields, which does a great service to the fruit - red berries with a smoky graphite scent lingering over them. Mineral and defined.

Le Charmois is on a hill just next to Chassagne-Montrachet’s 1er Cru Les Chaumées. There is around 40 centimetres of topsoil then the vines hit cool, poor limestone soil making for a tightly powerful wine with straight, chalky freshness. The wine is aged in around 20% new oak which adds a little spicy accent of ginger and acacia. A beautifully energetic wine the palate offers ripe white peach and apricot notes with a verve of salinity on the finish.

The Bachelets have four parcels in this Premier Cru, the oldest of which were planted in 1927 and 1960. In total it represents around 0.5 hectares of vines easterly exposed on the mid-slope. In 2023 the Marcherelles is a stunning wine. Intense, dense and focused yet with an almost miraculous purity. Notes of grilled peach, white grapefruit and at its core, an unrelenting focus of mineral. One of the picks from the range this year.

The most structured of the Bachelet brothers' red, this opens with dark cherry fruit, fresh earth, cocoa and crushed violet petals. There is a course of freshness running through the palate with a supple and powdery feel to the tannins, which suggests it will age gracefully.

With seven parcels scattered across three hectares, of which five are located in Enseignères (a highly-regarded vineyard that touches the Grands Crus), this Puligny is one of the most complete and quintessential you’ll find. In 2023 you’ll find both richness and freshness. It is aged in around 25% new oak and opens with a subtle flintiness followed by bright white peach and apricot blossom notes. A delicate salinity builds on the palate with a lift of white grapefruit on the finish. Already so accessible and delicious.

This is one of the finest sites in Puligny. It has some of the poorest soil in the village, and the wines it produces of real mineral intensity – are the essence of Puligny. The 2023 opens with a pure, well defined nose of wet rocks, jasmine, and a little flintiness. There is a hint of bitter white grapefruit which dances on the palate with the well-defined peach and stone fruit flavours. For the moment it is a wine built on minerality, but is sure to blossom into brilliant and complete wine.

This comes from two plots on the Meursault side of the village and has appealing spiced quince notes with fresh honeysuckle. The palate is rather dense showing impressive concentration of stone fruit, yet the finish is etched with an oyster shell minerality. Excellent potential here.

The Boillots’ tiny but highly-regarded Combettes is situated between Les Referts and Champ Canet, at the top of the Puligny slope coming from three small parcels. It’s a truly brilliant wine in 2023, finding the perfect interplay of freshness and richness. It is assertive on the palate with vibrant notes of orange peel, white peach, and spiced pear. The finish offers a tightly coiled wave of minerality. There is grand cru-esque complexity here.

The Boillot family have two parcels here, which together amount to just over one hectare. This Puligny comes across as quite aerial with a breath of ocean spray running through the wine. The palate is detailed and tightly coiled with notes of acacia, quince and fresh apricot leading to a fabulously vibrant finish.

Jean-Marc makes some of the best Chassagne Rouge around. With 50-60 year old vines planted on the clay soil pockets around the village, he has produced a great example in 2023. This old vine cuvée has a pretty spiced plum aroma on the nose, with textural red fruit detail on the palate. You’ll find slightly chalky, fine-grained tannins of the highest order here.

This is from three of the village’s best communal sites: Les Pierres (94-year-old vines), Mazures (40+), and Houillères (30+). The younger vines give lift, elegance and a vibrant drive, while the older vines give depth and power. It shows a pretty, slightly floral scent on the nose, with a fresh, energetic drive of acidity on the palate.

This is a brilliant example of what Pinot Noir can do in Chassagne when you combine old vines and serious winemaking. The poor soils of Clos St Jean have long been one of the hotspots for Pinot in the village, and Jean-Marc counts himself lucky to have inherited this parcel of 100+ year old vines. He likes to make a gourmand style you can approach from youth, but don’t let that make you think this is lacking in concentration or sophistication. This 2023 is sitting emphatically in the enticing, expressive red fruit spectrum, and the wine shows a level of freshness, complexity, concentration and precision that lifts it up to great heights.

This excellent vineyard is on the lower slopes of Puligny, just above Les Enseignères, and directly below the grands crus. It’s classically Puligny on the nose, mineral and restrained, while the palate is peachy and elegant. It is once more a highlight in 2023, showing an intricate balance between density of fruit and juicy acidity.

The vines here are now around 80-90 years old – with a total of four barrels made in 2023. The wine offers spiced cherry fruit, wild strawberry with a fine grained and seamless texture on the palate. Quite a beautiful and seductive style of Nuits but with plenty of stuffing.

This vineyard bordering Pommard did once produce wines with some robust, muscular tannins. However, with vines reaching 70+ years, the tannins have begun to soften, becoming distinctly finer in recent years. The fruit character is darker here with black cherry and violet notes with hints of incense and earthiness. The finish is fleshy with a bright line of acidity.

Always one of the first parcels to be picked due to the richer clay and limestone soils. This has a creamy and silky texture with detailed red berry fruits. There is a beautiful aerial character with a lift of rosehip and pink peppercorn on the finish.

This is a Bourgogne full of peachy freshness, great volume and delicious energy. The fruit for this blend comes from three sites in Meursault (making up 60%), with the remainder from a single plot in Puligny. In spite of their Bourgogne classification, these sites are high quality, knocking on the door of village level, with shallow topsoil and lots of small stones, aiding drainage. A favourite Bourgogne.

Blagny sits high up, 400m above the heart of the Meursault commune. This altitude brings a focused freshness to the wines. It has notes of ripe citrus, with a richly mineral seashell note - not unlike Chablis - on the nose. The soil is white limestone up here, and this makes for a scintillating palate. It feels straighter than the Grands Charrons, in many ways, more like a Puligny in profile than a Meursault. Saline, mineral, elegant and powerful.

Quite classic in style, this opens with a little almond pastry, white peach and hints of butterscotch. The palate is juicy delivering plenty of well-defined stone fruit with a elegant freshness and focus. A hint of spice and fresh floral notes mingle on the finish.

Strictly limited to 6 bottles per customer

You can feel the character of the poor stony soil found in Puligny here in this wine’s floral, light-on-its-feet delicacy. It has a piercing, slightly spicy intensity accompanied by a tenderness of fruit on the textured finish. Enticing, with intricate structure and superb definition.

Strictly limited to 6 bottles per customer

This is one of Meursault’s finest vineyards, shared amongst some of its greatest growers. It’s a clear step up in the Bouzereau line-up: textural, precise and enduring. Complexity abounds.

This parcel, right in the centre of the village, has been owned by the Lafarge family since 2005. It has an ideal mid-slope position, and produces a floral wine with great tension and an intense fruit core: quintessential Volnay. A more ethereal feel this year with fine texture and a lift of wild strawberry and cherry blossom.

For many, Lafarge is Volnay. This is a blend of their lower-lying parcels of village Volnay, four of which lie on the Pommard side, and two on the Meursault side. This wine is always elegant and perfumed, with an expressive silky frame. In 2023 this is a seamless and beautiful wine offering notes of red and dark cherries, hints of fresh violets with a subtle spiced note on the finish.

This is a wonderful site in Beaune, high up on the hill to the south of the town. Joannes cleverly uses the whole-bunch here, and the wine is aromatically spiced with strawberries and ginger. 60% of the wine is aged in ceramic tanks for the first time in 2023, adding an extra layer of freshness and precision to the fruit. The silky tannins contribute to a sensational length. This is really worth seeking out.

100% whole-bunch lifts this village Pommard up a notch or two. It’s such a fragrant and appetising style, mineral with lacy tannins and the best we’ve seen from Joannes since he took over in 2019. It is a great entry point for one of Pommard’s most promising new voices.

When Joannes Violot-Guillemard turns his hand to Pommard, it’s with the same finesse and silky tension that he brings to the precise and perfumed character of his Pommards. Les Brouillards borders Pommard, and shows a little of the muscle and brawn of its neighbour, with a distinctly floral tone to the fruit. Refined, detailed and utterly delicious.

This south-facing parcel is tucked up the valley slope, so on the Beaune (i.e. north) side of the village, facing directly towards Volnay. It’s a cool site, thanks to the fresh breeze that is drawn down through the vines, but the white soil and south-facing exposure means it can heat up pretty quickly when the sun shines. It strikes a brilliant balance between ethereal juiciness and mineral bite.

The vines here have an average age of 70+ years and, along with Rugiens, enjoy one of the finest positions in the village. The soil on this side of the village, nearer to Beaune, is extremely complex, with a high mineral and limestone content towards the top of the slope. 100% whole-bunch, with 50% of the wine being aged in ceramic tanks for the first time in 2023, adding an extra layer of freshness and precision to the fruit. This makes for a more ethereal, delicate, precise and elegant expression of Pommard than perhaps we are used to. It will need a little time, but this is a diamond in the making.

Monthelie is a small village just north of Meursault, producing deliciously crunchy red wines. The Lafon example is one of its leading lights. Indeed, the red wines at Lafon have come on a great deal in recent years, and this is one of the most affordable entry points to the domaine. Juicy, crunchy, and elegant Côte de Beaune Pinot at its finest.

The Lafons declassify the fruit of young vines grown in the 4-hectare plot into the village Volnay, meaning the 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu cuvée is the exclusive product of old vines. It is a complex red, with aromatic density, sour cherry freshness and a long, mineral finish, and for close followers of the domaine, one of the greatest wines in the cellar, whose reputation is more closely linked with its whites.

The domaine only bought this parcel in 2011, and it still feels like a newcomer on their list, even though it’s been a decade of releases already. The clay soils of the vineyard make a wonderfully rich wine that never shows any heaviness. It is crystalline with great presence.

This delicious white comes from a plot of limestone soil high up on the hill. It’s floral, mineral and zippy, with fantastic energy. This delivers the quality and complexity of a village wine for the price not far off others’ Bourgogne Blancs.

This is a blend of multiple parcels of older vines (the average age is 55 years), which all share in common their mid-slope position. There is quite a lot of flat land and heavy clay at the bottom of Santenay which is less good, so this is an important distinction. These vines are all in the upper part of the village on limestone, and make for an expressive, vibrant, fresh, and distinctive red wine packed with cherry and damson notes. It shows good clarity, elegance, and a long, saline, peppery finish. Cracking value.

Les Sétilles is an outstanding Bourgogne Blanc, and one of the most popular wines on our list. Much of the fruit comes from around Puligny-Montrachet, blended with some from further afield, like the Hautes-Côtes, which brings welcome freshness and tension. Two-thirds of the wine is raised in oak, with just a touch (10%) new. It is precise, full of character, with a mineral bite and a lovely seam of acidity. It is great value for money.

Saint-Romain’s wines used to sit at the high-acid end of Burgundy. The elevation here gives the wines a coolness and austerity in cooler years. But in recent vintages, the appellation has come into its own, and now proves a source of deliciously fresh but poised wines, where other appellations are teetering into the overripe camp. This wine comes from various plots, including Sous le Château and En Poillange. It's a refreshing and crunchy white, with limestone minerality and a racy edge.

Floral, precise, and energetic. This Montagny Premier Cru is a classic example of why the appellation is recognised as one of the top communes in the Côte Chalonnaise. This wine itself is a blend of various sites, and is vinified almost exclusively in oak, with just a fraction of it new. It has this tight, fruit-based minerality and a textural structure, with plump lemon pulp at its core.

Floral, precise, and energetic. This Montagny Premier Cru is a classic example of why the appellation is recognised as one of the top communes in the Côte Chalonnaise. This wine itself is a blend of various sites, and is vinified almost exclusively in oak, with just a fraction of it new. It has this tight, fruit-based minerality and a textural structure, with plump lemon pulp at its core.

Les Sétilles is an outstanding Bourgogne Blanc, and one of the most popular wines on our list. Much of the fruit comes from around Puligny-Montrachet, blended with some from further afield, like the Hautes-Côtes, which brings welcome freshness and tension. Two-thirds of the wine is raised in oak, with just a touch (10%) new. It is precise, full of character, with a mineral bite and a lovely seam of acidity. It is great value for money.

This was a new addition to the Lay & Wheeler list in 2022. The parcel sits in the northern half of the commune, towards Puligny-Montrachet. It’s a fairly flat, stony vineyard. It stands out in the line-up for its floral and delicate perfume. There is Chassagne’s deliciously nutty, savoury structure, making it an excellent food wine.

Compared with the Olivier Leflaive wines of Puligny, this Meursault is weighted and structured, with satisfying depth and tension. It’s ample, without being cloying or heavy. The vineyard of Vireuils sits tucked up at the top of the hill, on the border with neighbouring Auxey-Duresses. Its cool hilltop position helps the wine retain a terrific mineral drive, and 50-year-old vines produce concentration and savoury length.

This brilliant-value Bourgogne Blanc comes from limestone parcels scattered around the Puligny side of Meursault. This wine always delivers: in 2023 it’s brimming with fresh pear on the nose. On the palate, it’s so textured and long, and particularly persistent for a Bourgogne. It sees 25% new oak, which is relatively high for a Bourgogne, adding savoury definition - you get a lot of bang for your buck here. It is a great introduction to the Côte d’Or.

This comes from the top of a limestone slope, which has very little topsoil, so the vines need to dig deep for sustenance. It’s pretty on the nose, with a subtle white blossom note. The palate is saline, with a hint of bitterness, recalling pink grapefruit. The length of the wine is carried on the shoulders of 30% new oak which gives it depth and grip. The vintage’s signature freshness is particularly vibrant in Les Tillets.

Like Les Clousots, this is a blend of two sites in Meursault rather than a single lieu-dit. It is a combination of Les Casses Têtes and Les Murgers de Monthélie. This cuvée has been bottled since 1996, and is a foundation of the Javillier range. It is always the most direct and driven of the range. In 2023, there is an openness and particularly vibrant expression of Chardonnay on the striking finish. As ever, very elegant, mineral and refined.

This is the jewel in the crown of this estate. The vines are on the Aloxe-Corton side of the hill, south-facing, with clay/limestone soil. It sees no new oak (instead, the small volume is vinified in one-year-old barrels), so it has a fresher style. It always has that classic Corton-Charlemagne smoky bacon nose, and a palate of profound and concentrated fruit. The freshness of the vintage works excellently here with the natural weight and power of the site.

This is a blend of the hillside vineyard Les Clous, with a touch of Les Crotots, hence the blended name (nothing to do with the detective). Les Clous provides the body and drive, with Les Crotots, which sits just next to Premier Cru Poruzots, definition and zip. It is refined and floral in 2023, with additional juicy stone fruit in the mix. It shows beautiful weight and texture with impressive concentration of fruit and a mineral length.