2020 Chablis

This comes from the parcel at the bottom of the slope, by the river. Its soil always lends wines lots of saltiness and minerality, Didier says. The 2020 is incisive and tense, with a piercing saline freshness. Its texture is distinctly dry, perhaps thanks to the saltiness, and there is a green apple density to the midpalate, making it a particularly food-friendly example of Chablis.

William’s father planted some of these vines in 1948. Since then, the domaine has expanded its holdings, and it is now the largest owner of Chablis’ greatest site with over 4 hectares. Lots of their vines are at the top of the hill, in a cool site, where the best soils are found. The wine is saturated in white peach, oyster brine, fennel pollen, and limestone minerality. So complex, powerful, yet so understated in a way. This is truly grand cru in every sense.

Preuses tends to be the most mineral and chalky or the grand cru lieux-dits, and the Fèvre example is quintessential. It is tight and powerful, with wonderful depth on the nose. The palate has pronounced energy and precision, and there is a long, tingling line of mineral freshness that stretches right down the finish. An outstanding wine.

40 parcels scattered across 4 hectares go into this blend, from vines with an average age of 50 years. Much of these are grown around Chichee, near Vosgros, and give the quality you might expect in a premier cru. The result is a village Chablis of brilliant precision, with long volume and a saline, fresh finish.

40 parcels scattered across 4 hectares go into this blend, from vines with an average age of 50 years. Much of these are grown around Chichee, near Vosgros, and give the quality you might expect in a premier cru. The result is a village Chablis of brilliant precision, with long volume and a saline, fresh finish

Vaillons is a warm, sunny premier cru, and Fèvre has 3.5 hectares right in the middle of the slope. Their 55-year-old vines produce concentration and ripeness in the wine. This 2020 is bursting with white peaches and blossom on the nose, with a vibrant citrus-edged palate. It is totally delicious already, but will age brilliantly too.

Vaudésir is shaped like an amphitheatre, and catches the sun. As a result, the fruit ripens early here and it needs to be picked at the right time, which is just what Didier has done in 2020. The wine is delicate and precise. Its fine-boned features are so pretty in youth, and will maintain their striking beauty with age. Aromatically complex, zingy and detailed.

Three parcels are blended here, creating a complex and crystalline wine. It has the honour of hosting the domaine’s oldest vines, which were planted in 1936. These add beautiful freshness along with density of fruit. It is restrained, taut, and so long. You are in no doubt of the greatness of this wine when tasting.

William’s father planted some of these vines in 1948. Since then, the domaine has expanded its holdings, and it is now the largest owner of Chablis’ greatest site with over 4 hectares. Lots of their vines are at the top of the hill, in a cool site, where the best soils are found. The wine is saturated in white peach, oyster brine, fennel pollen, and limestone minerality. So complex, powerful, yet so understated in a way. This is truly grand cru in every sense.

William’s father planted some of these vines in 1948. Since then, the domaine has expanded its holdings, and it is now the largest owner of Chablis’ greatest site with over 4 hectares. Lots of their vines are at the top of the hill, in a cool site, where the best soils are found. The wine is saturated in white peach, oyster brine, fennel pollen, and limestone minerality. So complex, powerful, yet so understated in a way. This is truly grand cru in every sense.

William’s father planted some of these vines in 1948. Since then, the domaine has expanded its holdings, and it is now the largest owner of Chablis’ greatest site with over 4 hectares. Lots of their vines are at the top of the hill, in a cool site, where the best soils are found. The wine is saturated in white peach, oyster brine, fennel pollen, and limestone minerality. So complex, powerful, yet so understated in a way. This is truly grand cru in every sense.

Preuses tends to be the most mineral and chalky or the grand cru lieux-dits, and the Fèvre example is quintessential. It is tight and powerful, with wonderful depth on the nose. The palate has pronounced energy and precision, and there is a long, tingling line of mineral freshness that stretches right down the finish. An outstanding wine.

William Fèvre owns half of this climat, so it’s no wonder theirs is the best example you will find. Its clay soils make a flattering, comparatively early-drinking grand cru, which will wow from early on. The nose is brimming with the scent of freshly cut grass and fresh asparagus. And the palate has an open peachy texture. Every year we remark what good value this is, and 2020 is no different.

Vaulorent is technically part of Fourchaume, the largest premier cru in Chablis, and is the only premier cru to share the same slope as the grand cru. It has very chalky soil and produces a wine of power and silky tension. The 2020 is so velvety and beguiling, you almost don’t feel the power of the wine underneath the texture.

2020 is the last year we’ll see Mont de Milieu from Fèvre for a while, as they have decided to replant the old vines. They were so prone to millerandages (small berries) that the yields were decreasing every year, and only struggled to 18hl/ha in 2020. That concentration, however, gives this wine an amazing punch. It has such sophisticated tension and chalky focus, with a weighty green apple mid-palate and long, structured finish. One for the long haul.