2020 Chablis

This comes from the parcel at the bottom of the slope, by the river. Its soil always lends wines lots of saltiness and minerality, Didier says. The 2020 is incisive and tense, with a piercing saline freshness. Its texture is distinctly dry, perhaps thanks to the saltiness, and there is a green apple density to the midpalate, making it a particularly food-friendly example of Chablis.

William’s father planted some of these vines in 1948. Since then, the domaine has expanded its holdings, and it is now the largest owner of Chablis’ greatest site with over 4 hectares. Lots of their vines are at the top of the hill, in a cool site, where the best soils are found. The wine is saturated in white peach, oyster brine, fennel pollen, and limestone minerality. So complex, powerful, yet so understated in a way. This is truly grand cru in every sense.

Preuses tends to be the most mineral and chalky or the grand cru lieux-dits, and the Fèvre example is quintessential. It is tight and powerful, with wonderful depth on the nose. The palate has pronounced energy and precision, and there is a long, tingling line of mineral freshness that stretches right down the finish. An outstanding wine.