Austria’s spectacular 2021s

This was picked early, to ensure that a Federspiel could be made. It’s cool on the nose, with notes of lemon sherbet, and then grapefruit and plenty of freshness. There’s outstanding minerality, and plenty of precision on the finish. This lingers. Lovely.

This is the largest production of the estate, from two plots at the top of the hill, Postaler and Gaisberg, and then one from the bottom of the hill. It balances the richness and power of the bottom of the hill with the freshness of the top. This is so precise with lovely weight, and there’s salinity, a slightly oily texture, and an almost sweet and sour character. There’s lots of spice on the long finish.

The altitude here means it is picked late: one part at the end of October, and the other parts on November 10th and 11th. The resulting wine is so complex and intense, with an explosive palate of apricots, sea spray, and so much freshness. This is incredibly ripe, but is impeccably balanced with intense acidity. It’s a spectacularly pure, long, wine: one of the best we’ve tried this year.

From the bottom of the Kollmitz hill, Spitaler is a single vineyard, and this cuvée comes from just the old vines here, which were planted in 1962. This is so energetic with dark spice and an earthy character. This has so much phenolic freshness, with lots of intense, creamy fruit. Voluminous in the mouth, it all comes back together on the finish.

Some of the vines here were planted in the 1950s, with a small portion in 2002. This is intense and stony, with more vibrant acidity than the Spitaler. It’s more angular in the mouth, with lots of wild flowers and plenty of nervy acidity. It needs time, but when it comes together it will be spectacular.

Planted at 500 metres altitude in the Sieber vineyard, this 1 hectare plot is made up of 25 different Riesling clones from 1980s plantings. The acidity is always zesty and energetic from a site that benefits from diurnal temperature shifts. This wine is mineral driven on the core with a saltiness and spice that is breathtaking, yet there is a denisty and richness that also contributes towards this wine's delisciousness. It would definitely benefit from a bit of time in bottle and you will be rewarded with a wine that is complex and showcases what incredibly Austrian Riesling can offer.

Klaus was planted in the early 50s and is situated next to Achleiten on Bodenstein's steepest vineyard sites that is a small 0.73 hectares. This wine is often quite strict in its profile until it has had some time in bottle, yet the 2021 is singing already. Red apple, lemon and grapefruit citrus combine with a steely and herbal note. White peach and jasmine aromas combine with a pithiness on the finish.

The Riesling vines are situated on 25 incredibly steep terraces on a site that is gneiss rich on the East of Weissenkirchen. Expect mandarin, fleshy peach and lemon citrus notes combined with a breadth and concentration on the palate that is perfectly balanced against the crisp acidity. The length on the finish is stunning.

Steinriegel is to the West of Weissenkirchen on a 4.6 hectare plot that compared to Prager's pther sites contains no gneiss, but is dominated by a distinct and rare white chalk silicate marble. This is a cool site and demonstrates peach, lime and jasmine notes. Subtle ginger spice notes and red apple aromas combine with a juicy core.

Coming from vines in the village of Weissenkirchen and translated as 'behind the castle', this Federspiel level wine at 12.5% is glorious and one that you don't have to wait to drink to appreciate. Red apple and citrus notes are supported by a juicy acidity. The palate has an approachable creaminess, yet it is carefully balanced with a grapefruit pithiness on the finish that provides clarity and focus.

With over 70 terraces of vines in the highly regarded Achleiten vineyard in Weissenkirchen, this vineyard is extremely diverse with plantings over 60 years old. This wine always displays an attractive white blossom aroma with hints of citrus and pear. The palate has a weight and silkiness as well as having a steely character and crisp acidity that provides a linear profile.

"Stockkultur" refers to the individually staked vines trained low on seriously steep terraces from the Achleiten vineyard, that is incredibly labour intensive. The vines come the family's oldest vineyard holdings, from 1930s plantings that are situated in the middle terrace on a 0.65 hectare plot that is dominated by micha schist soils. Slightly richer in style, expect more exotic fruits and spice, yet the salinity on the core and the brisk acidity gives the wine direction and precision.

Situated at the top of the Achleiten vineyard planted at 500 metres this wine is considered to be one of Prager's Grand Cru wines. Crazily the vineyard is made up of 110 different clones that helps produce wine that is so interesting and complex. There is a lot to happening in this wine and it will surely get better and better with time in bottle. Pear, white flowers, stony and flinty notes are supported by a ginger spice and phenolic grip on the palate. The concentration and length is sensational and this wine does not disappoint.

2015 was the first vintage of Zwerithaler (meaning "nestled in the valleys" for Prager, who have a 100 year lease on this site that is owned by the monestary. Kammergut is a 0.34 hectare parcel that was planted before World War I on ungrafted vines, in a site that Toni Bodenstein likens to Klaus with paragneiss and calcareous soil. Production is limited on this Buschenberg plot and this wine shows restrained concentration. Still so, so youthful and with incredible potential for the future. Flinty, stony and white blossom aromas combine with a saline and edgy core.

A blend of some of Knoll's prime vineyards surrounding the village of Unterloiben, this wine offers layers of complexity that a multi vineyard site can offer. Jasmine, lime, red apple and steely aromas are supported by notes of white blossom and grapefruit pith. There is a focus and linear character to the core as well as a creaminess that adds body and depth.

Gelber Muskateller is one of the oldest grape varieties and rather sadly, very little is still planted today. Attractive floral notes of jasmine combined with elderflower and sweet spice are evident on the nose and are supported by layers of citrus and yellow peach on the palate. The wine displays similar qualities to the Muscat variety, yet the Muskateller delivers a greater vibrancy and level of acidity that gives the wine an energy and salinity.

Delicious aromas of white peach, grapefruit and pepper spice. The linear palate is balanced to perfection with a concentration and juiciness that can be attributed to the superb 2021 vintage.

Knoll has a south facing plot that helps create a perfectly generous and almost edging towards the exotic style of Gruner. Its almost 100% Loess soil however helps retain more water to enable the grapes to keep their freshness as well as the additional texture and roundness you would expect from Loibenberg. Ginger spice, pineapple and lemongrass aromas continue on the palate, combined with juicy apricot and red apple as well as a crisp acidity on the palate. Long and concentrated core.

Almost entirely granite with half a metre of light sandy, loess soil, this site sits to the East of the village of unterloiben. Although the vineyard basks in sunshine, there is a cooling influence that runs down to the Danube. In 2021 this wine has spent slightly longer in oak that gives the wine additional texture. Acidity on this wine is steely and there is a white blossom aroma combined with fleshy apricot and mango notes that gives richness and balance.

A famed vineyard site and Pichler's steepest vineyard site that has a south, south-east exposition and still benefits from significant diurnal temperatures that help with a consistent maturation of the grapes. Its hugely complex soils of gneiss and fine loess top soil produces high quality grapes with the wine destined to be very long lived. Cooler fruit profiles of citrus and flinty notes work in juxtaposition to the more tropical and exotic notes of pineapple and mango. Ginger spice and white pepper aromas add layers of complexity.

A famed vineyard site and Pichler's steepest vineyard site that has a south, south-east exposition and still benefits from significant diurnal temperatures that help with a consistent maturation of the grapes. Its hugely complex soils of gneiss and fine loess top soil produces high quality grapes with the wine destined to be very long lived. Cooler fruit profiles of citrus and flinty notes work in juxtaposition to the more tropical and exotic notes of pineapple and mango. Ginger spice and white pepper aromas add layers of complexity.

This 0.5 hectare vineyard plot is situated in a rift valley and benefits from a cool northerly night air streams that helps retain the taut acidity. The mineral profile and restrained concentration is a result of the deep gneiss soil and sand mix, as well as the old vine material. Peach with mandarin notes coming through, but this wine is driven by its flinty and steely profile. The palate enjoys a richness on the palate that has come through lees ageing that broadens the mouthfeel.

This 0.5 hectare vineyard plot is situated in a rift valley and benefits from a cool northerly night air streams that helps retain the taut acidity. The mineral profile and restrained concentration is a result of the deep gneiss soil and sand mix, as well as the old vine material. Peach with mandarin notes coming through, but this wine is driven by its flinty and steely profile. The palate enjoys a richness on the palate that has come through lees ageing that broadens the mouthfeel.

This is one of the hottest sites in the whole of the Wachau thanks in part to its south facing exposition, as well as being one of the steepest and largest. This wine shines in 2021 with the richness and concentration, demonstrating exotic perfume and ripe apricot notes with a crisp acidity and mineral core that helps bring some precision to the wine. This wine often needs time, yet you will be rewarded as this wine is impressive and is layered with complexity.

This wine is often one of my favourite wines in the Pichler line up, and it seems Falstaff agree this year giving the wine 100 points. Expect jasmine and white blossom notes combined with lemon verbena and spice. Wonderfully saline with great structure and long length.

This wine is often one of my favourite wines in the Pichler line up, and it seems Falstaff agree this year giving the wine 100 points. Expect jasmine and white blossom notes combined with lemon verbena and spice. Wonderfully saline with great structure and long length.

The cool site accentuates the floral side of this Riesling with a mineral backbone and punchy acidity. White peach and citrus are layered with elements of the exotic with lime and pineapple. The palate finishes with a salinity that persists on the finish.

This comes from mineral vineyards, not from Loess. It’s delicate, with notes of iodine and then a floral element. The finish spreads out and then there’s a bitterness here, too. This is explosive and very pure. This is a spectacular Grüner. So much oyster shell on the finish, and brilliantly balanced. Love this: very driven style.

This is the vineyard up the Spitzergraben, the coolest site, on the corner of the valley, where the cool air comes down from the plateau. Very precise and quite savoury on the nose. There’s notes of mint and plenty of stone fruit, and then an orange blossom character, too. So much vibrancy here: this has so much acidity, but nothing sticks out. This has everything dialled up.

Seven different batches, then blended together. Have vines from bottom to very top of hill. Bottom much riper typically, while the top is focussed. Together they are greater than the sum of its parts. The nose here is beguiling. Quite restrained, there’s some floral and spice, while the palate is concentrated and powerful. It fills the palate, with weight and texture, this is muscular and complex, and spectacularly long. Oyster shell and spice and pure fruit. Astounding. But rare.

From 100% Loess Soil, near the church. This borders where Honivogl comes from (which could also be called Axpoint). Creamier on the nose, lots of pineapple. Lots of palate weight here, there’s tons of ripe and intense fruit, and an amazing weight and length. This is supple and lots of spice: an almost christmassy feel to the finish.

Honivogl was the old owner’s name. On the border of Singerriedel and Axpoint, so it’s found in the outflow of Singerriedel. This smells pretty spectacular. So much intensity and then there’s a coolness to the fruit, and that lovely palate weight. Lots of dark spice here, and there’s opulent fruit, but there’s so much minerality and salinity on the finish, and so much power. This is impressively textured, and very long.

The ‘baby Heiligenstein’ is astonishing in 2021. There’s incredible richness to the fruit, and there’s a weight and density here. The palate has a purity and detail to the yellow fruit, and there’s a texture and expressiveness that goes on and on.

This comes from the vineyard at the bottom of the Gaisberg hill, where there’s Loess that comes down from that vineyard. It’s so intense, fine-boned and beautiful, with lots of minerality on the finish. A beautiful expression of Grüner.

Right in between Heiligenstein and Gaisberg, with pure Loess soils, protected on 3 sides. The resulting wine is really tropical and intense, with weight and texture and opulence and spice. This is beautifully balanced. Silky and then pithy, and the minerality makes you salivate so much. Very long indeed.

This sees a little skin contact. It’s really textured, with incredible density. This fills the mouth, there’s a coolness here, but also explosive fruit, floral notes, and just a hint of herbal notes too. This is brilliant.

The estate’s highest plots - 350m altitude. Lighter soil, and picked two weeks later than the other Grüner plots. Very cool and floral, spicy with orange blossom. Smokiness and coolness, and then a herbal character. Lots of energy here, this is so long and finely judged.

Incredibly poor soils, where slate starts after just 50cm of hummus. Really savoury and intense. So much grip here, this is wonderfully balanced and pure, with incredible intensity. Seems to fan out on the finish, floral, ripe stone fruit and then lots of crushed stones and loads of salinity, too. So powerful, and mineral. Bitterness on the finish - this is spectacularly cool and suave.

Stein is a district within Krems, at the most western end of the area, near Wachau. This comes from a terraced vineyard, with plenty of sand in the soil. Lots of spice on the nose, lots of stone fruit too. Slightly smoky, really nice vibrant fruit, and there’s a breadth that comes across the palate. A hint of bitterness on the finish,

Traditionally every house would have some vines to ensure they had a yield every year. This is a field blend of 7 different varieties: Frühroter Veltliner, Grüner Veltliner, Neubeuger, Moscatella, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Müller-Thurgau. It comes from the north, from the Aiglesee above krems - so vines at high altitude, at 450m above sea level. Formerly this was too cold for quality grapes, but with climate change it’s now realising its potential. This has lovely freshness, good concentration, and good sense of acidity. This is really delicious and approachable. It’s very pure and tangy and pithy.

This goes into the estate’s oldest acacia barrel, that’s 40-50 years old, and the vineyard itself is 60-70 years old, with some ungrafted vines on sandy soils. Very pretty and spicy, lots of vinous weight here, and a real coolness. There’s plenty of savoury fruit here, with a sandalwood character adding spicy complexity. Really good length and so saline.

From 50 year old vines, planted on slate. The rows themselves are crooked, planted on beautiful old terraces. This is quite ripe, with pineapple, but that opulence is balanced with remarkable minerality. There’s so much body and density, and the finish lasts an age: this is remarkable.

From a terraced, black slate vineyard, from 40-50 year old vines. Most of the vineyard is Riesling, but a small area of Grüner Veltliner has been kept. This is so powerful and intense, with a brilliant balance of sweet and sour. This is a remarkable wine. So much power and depth.

From 40 year old vines right at the top of the slope, where the forest starts. It’s very cool and shy, but there’s remarkable breadth and focus. Tightly coiled, mineral, and savoury, this is one for the long haul.