Austria’s spectacular 2021s

Traditionally every house would have some vines to ensure they had a yield every year. This is a field blend of 7 different varieties: Frühroter Veltliner, Grüner Veltliner, Neubeuger, Moscatella, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Müller-Thurgau. It comes from the north, from the Aiglesee above krems - so vines at high altitude, at 450m above sea level. Formerly this was too cold for quality grapes, but with climate change it’s now realising its potential. This has lovely freshness, good concentration, and good sense of acidity. This is really delicious and approachable. It’s very pure and tangy and pithy.

This goes into the estate’s oldest acacia barrel, that’s 40-50 years old, and the vineyard itself is 60-70 years old, with some ungrafted vines on sandy soils. Very pretty and spicy, lots of vinous weight here, and a real coolness. There’s plenty of savoury fruit here, with a sandalwood character adding spicy complexity. Really good length and so saline.

From 50 year old vines, planted on slate. The rows themselves are crooked, planted on beautiful old terraces. This is quite ripe, with pineapple, but that opulence is balanced with remarkable minerality. There’s so much body and density, and the finish lasts an age: this is remarkable.

From a terraced, black slate vineyard, from 40-50 year old vines. Most of the vineyard is Riesling, but a small area of Grüner Veltliner has been kept. This is so powerful and intense, with a brilliant balance of sweet and sour. This is a remarkable wine. So much power and depth.

From 40 year old vines right at the top of the slope, where the forest starts. It’s very cool and shy, but there’s remarkable breadth and focus. Tightly coiled, mineral, and savoury, this is one for the long haul.