Alpine Wines

Alfio makes a tiny quantity - just 2,000 bottles - of Sforzato di Valtellina: an Amarone-like dry wine, made from dried Nebbiolo grapes. Still delicate in colour, the nose is beautifully perfumed: this is recognisably Nebbiolo. The palate has a weight and power to it, and notes of dried fruit and dried herbs, but it doesn’t have the overripeness of Amarone. Brilliantly balanced, and very long and finely judged.

Les Murets comes from the commune of Villette. It’s a delicate, elegant expression of Chasselas: the perfect introduction to the grape. From sandy, chalky soils, it’s a mineral, floral wine, ideal with lighter dishes. Notes of rose petal and watermelon, and a lovely savoury lift on the finish. Very good value.

These vines are planted on degraded Lias clay, which contributes to the soaring tension on the mid-palate of this wine. It has a smoky base, with citrus top notes. Tingling minerality swirls throughout. There is a magnificent density to this wine. Tuck it away for a few years to enjoy it in its full glory.

As the name suggests, this is made up of a patchwork of terroirs across the domaine, and produces a benchmark Jura Chardonnay. It is the perfect introduction to the Chardonnay range here, which is a tour de force of single site expression. The average age of vines is around 50 years, which is fairly senior for an ‘entry’ wine. The long fermentation in barrel (10% new) has produced complex layers of flavours, with curry, fenugreek and saline freshness, with a silky texture. There is that classica nutty Jura reduction on the finish. Some attractive fruitiness on the palate means it will drink well from early on.

This is the ‘insider’s tip’ in the Tissot range. It comes from a 0.6 hectare parcel of very old Chardonnay vines planted within the Château-Chalon appellation (usually planted with Savagnin for the world class vins jaunes produced there). "Sursis" means "reprieve" in French - Stéphane had planned to grub the vines up when he bought the plot to plant Savagnin for Vin jaune, but the limestone soils here produce such a fantastic, mineral wine that he couldn't bring himself to do it. It has a purity and freshness that sets it apart. Ageing on lees gives it a subtle richness that counterbalances its austere tension. Rare and wonderful.

This cuvée is an homage to Stéphane's father, André (dédé/DD) who began making this wine. It is a blend of Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard which is made in a "glouglou" style without sulphur for easy drinking. Its long, gentle fermentation and ageing in hundred-year-old foudres preserve the natural freshness of the varieties. It is bottled with a little more CO2 than most wines to compensate for the lack of added sulphur dioxide. This provides a prickle of freshness, and a quick carafing might be advised. This quintessentially Jurassic red is wonderful for early, easy drinking.

Indigène is a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot noir and 5% each of Poulsard and Trousseau. Its name refers to the use of only natural ingredients in its winemaking: primary fermentation with indigenous yeasts, and secondary fermentation initiated by the addition of Stéphane's own liqueur de tirage, made from the domaine’s own, fermenting straw wine. It is creamy and gently sparkling, with a vinous character running through the palate. It is one of the finest examples of its type

65% Gamay de Chautagne, 25% Mondeuse, 10% Persan. A beautiful pale ruby from a super-star Savoie domaine. It is lightly scented with wild cherries, Alpine strawberries, and a light graphite smokiness. Its sappy adicity and fine sweet tannins combine in this distinctive and delicious mountain red.

65% Gamay de Chautagne, 25% Mondeuse, 10% Persan. 2018’s warm season has lent this a depth of dark cherry and wild berry core, married with the cool smoky freshness of the high-altitude region. Supple, salty tannins, and a long balanced finish. Domaine des Ardoisières on top form.

40% Jacquère, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Mondeuse Blanche. Apple-scented, textured, and refreshing. The slight yeasty character adds depth and weight, and its soaring acidity gives it a tangy grip, with its briny length making it so moreish. Domaine des Ardoisières on top form.

The Petite Arvine is intense and savoury. There’s peaches here, and plenty of savoury spice, with notes of fresh ginger and a long and textured finish. Very saline on the finish: makes you reach for another glass.

Les Filles has earned a cult following. Each year the humorous label changes, and many of the 2016's predecessors have become collector's items. The wine is made from Bergeron, which is the local Savoie name for Roussanne. It shares much of the peachy, stone fruit ripeness you'd find in the Rhône, but with a verve all of its own. It is rich, bright, vibrant, and superbly long. Its weight and poise make it a great match with food. Gilles Berlioz is a passionate practicioner of organic farming and a benchmark producer in the Savoie.