2017 White Burgundies

The Clos st Marc is part of the Vergers vineyard, that was decimated by frost in 2016. Fortunately, 2017 is a much happier story. And this is a simply brilliant expression of the vintage. There’s energy and length, as well as purity of fruit and a very saline finish. Brilliant.

From 2 parcels within the vineyard, falling either side of the central ridge: one is a warm site, the other a cool one. Blending them together gives it great complexity and peresonality. There’s a tension here but also so much purity. It shows a lovely fine balance and cool fruit, and rewards the efforts of someone who picked at exactly the right moment in 2017.

Les Vergers sits at Chassagne's northern edge, bordering St-Aubin, on the slope just above Les Chenevottes. This is an accomplished 2017, made in a floral, delicate style of Chassagne, with an energy and depth beneath.

This cuvée is predominantly taken from the hillside vineyard Les Clous, with a touch of Les Crotots from the bottom of the hill for intensity, as such since 2004. Very floral and citrus, and great purity. I love the energy and depth here.The finish lasts for minutes, with fine acidity.

This has a wonderfully tight, mineral nose making for a Chassagne in the floral, perfumed style, with an extremly pretty length. It captures both the charming elements of the 2017 vintage's delicacy, and the vineyard's drive and energy on the finish. Tasted blind at Burgfest, July 2021.

Just three producers work this vineyard, with Domaine Leflaive owning the lion’s share, and Alain and his brother Jean-Louis each with small holdings. It’s in the middle of the slope, below Folatières and next to Pucelles, but with slightly heavier soils. Planted in 1950. More closed today, some stone and also peach fruit, and creme patissiere, too. Palate has surprising richness given the nose’s shyness. There’s real drive on the mouthwatering finish. Starts shy, ends bold. Touch smoky on the finish.

Situated just between Les Referts and Champ Canet. Huge volume and intensity, but a beautiful line of acidity runs through the middle. Dancing and fresh with beautiful energy. Complex, mineral, incredible length and potential. This is Grand Cru level. Bravo.

This is an impressive wine, with ambitious structure, and chic reduction. There is an almost chewy density on the palate, with a textural power. Chevalier-Montrachets have done brilliantly on this vintage, and this is a highlight. Tasted blind at Burgfest, July 2021.

A blend of Les Casse-Têtes with Les Murgers de Monthélie, bottled that way since 1996. Green pineapple on the nose and apples. Quite structured. Very conference pear on the palate with spice and fine acidity. Really driven and lovely texture and salty tang on the finish.