South Africa: New releases

This is a real contender for South Africa’s finest Grenache. She calls Grenache “South Africa’s Pinot Noir”, and is always looking to make as elegant and precise an example as possible: this comes in at just 13.5% abv, yet is perfectly ripe. It comes mainly froma farm on the Paardeberg, next to Eben Sadie’s farm, with a drop of Voor Paardeberg and Bot Rivier fruit in 2018, from young vines and carefully selected clones.

This Tinta Barocca, meanwhile, is a real labour of love. She loves the grape variety, and this comes from three different, old vine sources: one in Bot Rivier, one in Stellenbosch, and then a parcel on the same farm on the Paardeberg as the other two wines. This is a bottling that benefits from a couple of years in bottle: with that it develops wonderful smoky notes, and hints of blood orange.

Newest in the range (for the time being - she’s adding Grenache Blanc to complete the trilogy next year) is Marelise's Grenache Gris. This comes from the only vineyard she knows of in South Africa, that’s just seven years old. It’s a spectacular wine: textures, savoury, and stunningly long, you’ll struggle to find a better food wine.

Wary of the propensity of Chenin Blanc to lose acidity when ripening, Marelise wanted something to add vibrancy to the white. The Chenin comes from a 1979-planted vineyard on the Paardeberg, from the same farm as the Grenache, and a 1982-planted vineyard in Botrivier, while the Verdelho comes from the Voor Paardeberg. This is a beautifully elegant, textured white.

The Kweekamp Chardonnay comes from a high altitude vineyard, planted on limestone. Limestone, the top pick for Chardonnay plantations throughout the world, is a rarity in the Cape, and this is a tense, mineral yet pleasingly open expression of the grape, with a lovely lick of oak spice. Just five barrels are made. In recent years, as well as being bottled by the Bruwers, this vineyard is also around one third of the blend of Capensis, South Africa’s most expensive Chardonnay, made by Jackson Family Wines.

The Groot Steen Chenin Blanc comes from just three rows of a six hectare vineyard, planted thirty years ago on alluvial soils near the Breede valley. It doesn’t go through malolactic fermentation, and remains tense, but with ripe notes of greengage and peaches.

From a plot in Franchhoek planted in 1932, there are just 5,000 bottles of the Franschhoek Old Vines Lötter Cinsault.

The Granite Syrah comes from the Paardeberg, from 24 year old vines, and is incredibly elegant and floral in style, with real focus.

There are just 1,800 bottles of the Wellington Old Vines Basson Cinsault, from a plot planted in 1900.

The Quartz Chenin sits between the Schist Chenin with its ripeness, and the taut and lean Granite Chenin in style, and comes from a 38 year old vineyard, also on the Kasteelberg

The Granite Chenin Blanc is taut and nervy, from a 43 year old vineyard on the Paardeberg. This will need some time.

Chenin Blanc makes up the spine of the Old Vines White, and it’s supported by Grenache Blanc, Macabeo, Verdelho, Clairette Blanche, Semillon Gris, and Viognier. Some of these sites are impressively old, with Chenin of up to 65 years old, and 60 year old Semillon Gris, while even the Viognier, from iron rich soils, is 21 years old. It’s a wine where balance is key, and where taut minerality is juxtaposed with a ripe, fruity, core. It’s a joyful, ageworthy wine.

Chardonnay in the cape, and more specifically in Stellenbosch, has been much maligned. A lot of this is down to the plant material, which was often virus infected, or not even Chardonnay at all. But a parcel high on the Helderberg mountain challenges that, with a lovely lemon oil character, and impressive mineral length. Just 6,000 bottles are produced, however.

Just 6,000 bottles are produced of the estate’s Cabernet Sauvignon, which seeks to redefine preconceptions about South African Cabernet. It comes from cooler sites across Stellenbosch, including a 39 year old parcel close to the sea, and parcels on the Helderberg and in the Polkadraai hills. It’s silky, savoury, and sure to be ageworthy.

From a 19 year old vineyard on the iron-rich soils around Malmesbury, the Iron Syrah has a breadth on the palate that’s not found on the other wines, and is stunningly aromatic.

The Schist Syrah comes from the couple’s Roundstone property, allowing full control of the farming. These 21 year old vines give a structured, peppery expression of Syrah.

The Syrah is as true an expression of this grape variety in the Swartland’s varied terroirs as you’ll find. In 2017, it’s a blend of four parcels planted in the stony Shale and Schist based soils of the Kasteelberg; two parcels of dry-land, bush vines grown in the decomposed Granite of the Paardeberg; and one on the rolling, iron-rich soils west of Malmesbury. The vines are aged between 22 and 30 years, and while delicious on first release, it’s a wine that will age impressively.

The culmination of the other wines of the estate is the Dry Red, inspired by the South African reds of the 1950s, 60s, and 70s. At this time, wines labelled as Cabernet Sauvignon would frequently have a considerable proportion of Cinsault, and this is an equal blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Cinsault, with grapes from the aforementioned vineyards included in the blend. In its youth, this is structured and intense, but with bottle age it’s sure to flourish.

The wine that is perhaps receiving the most attention currently is the Olerasay No.2, awarded 100 points by Neal Martin. Every year since 2008, they’ve held back a barrel or two of their Straw Wine, made from the Chenin Blanc grapes that have the best acidity at harvest, from the Kasteelberg, and the Paardeberg. They refresh a solera each year with the new vintage, and this is the just the second time they’ve bottled a portion. It is spectacular.

A single vineyard Pinot Noir, that’s astonishingly good in 2019. Smoky and silky, with amazingly pure red fruit, and a hint of mint on the finish, this wears its 33% new oak beautifully. This is a serious Pinot Noir: produced in tiny quantities, it’s not to be missed.

The 2019 Family Vineyards Pinot Noir is a stunning wine, that’s all about floral aromatics and focussed energy. It comes from four separate parcels on the estate, and shows incredible balance, purity of fruit, and savoury length. A brilliant Pinot Noir: the best value we know?

A wonderfully cool and collected Chardonnay, that shows why the Newton Johnsons are masters of both this and Pinot Noir. Notes of apple blossom and wet stones, and an incredibly long, mineral finish. A brilliant, focussed white.

The 2019 Bosberaad Chenin Blanc comes from the beautiful Waterval farm, that borders Adi Badenhorst’s property on the Paardeberg, farmed lovingly by Franziska Wickens. She’s the wife of Jasper Wickens, who used to be Adi’s winemaker and was in the same class at university as Paul (and Matt Day, of Klein Constantia - the South African wine trade can sometimes seem a very small place!) More specifically it comes from a 0.4hectare vineyard that was planted in 1980, right in the middle of the valley. It’s one of the coolest sites on the Paardeberg: running alongside a river bed, here the sun rises late and sets early, and results in a beautiful crisp, precise wine, which is all about subtlety and finesse. The 2019 is stunning: notes of lime blossom and golden delicious, with beautiful phenolic bitterness on the finish. In a few years time this will be even better.

With softer, slower extraction than previous vintages, Callie Louw has taken what was already a spectacular wine and lifted it to an even higher level. There’s violets and pomegranate on the nose, with an intense and silky palate, and a wonderfully intense and concentrated palate of ripe cherries and a hint of blood orange. The finish is long and savoury, and so complex. Astonishingly good Syrah.

With softer, slower extraction than previous vintages, Callie Louw has taken what was already a spectacular wine and lifted it to an even higher level. There’s violets and pomegranate on the nose, with an intense and silky palate, and a wonderfully intense and concentrated palate of ripe cherries and a hint of blood orange. The finish is long and savoury, and so complex. Astonishingly good Syrah.

The Rall Red is a blend of 70% Syrah 12% Grenache 10% Carignan and 8% Cinsault, with all the fruit coming from the Swartland. A lovely nose, very southern French in style: this is like a cool and sophisticated Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Notes of lavender and baked earth, and also plenty of mulberry and other wild berry fruit. Very well defined, and very long indeed.

Named after Donovan’s young daughter, it comes from schist soils, from a farm just outside Riebeek Kasteel, that Donovan and his team farm themselves. Tiny yields and incredibly hard work account for the higher price point. Incredibly peppery on the palate, there’s notes of violets and core of intense, ripe, yet not overbearing fruit. The texture is stunning here, and the finish seems to last an age. This is really very impressive.

First produced in 2015, his Grenache Blanc comes from 600-650m elevation in Piekenierskloof, and is a taut, elegant expression of the grape. This is really rather beautiful. Notes of apple blossom and ginger spice, and a silky and flowing mouthfeel. There’s an almost tonic feel to the finish. Cleansing and refreshing.

Named after Donovan’s young daughter, it comes from schist soils, from a farm just outside Riebeek Kasteel, that Donovan and his team farm themselves. Tiny yields and incredibly hard work account for the higher price point. Very focussed but expressive on the nose, the palate is a coiled ball of energy. This is so well defined, with notes of orange blossom, and plenty of cintru on the palate. Stunningly long, this is grown up Chenin Blanc.

And the most curious of all, perhaps, is his Cinsault Blanc. This is the only example we know of, from anywhere in the world. From a 33 year old, 0.2ha vineyard in Wellington, planted with a mutation of Cinsault Noir, just 650 bottles are produced. It’s just 11% alcohol, and is bright, vibrant, and delicious.

His Cinsault is a blend of fruit from Swartland, shared with David Sadie, and Darling, from the same vineyard as Duncan Savage’s Follow the Line. So pale in colour, with notes of wild cherry and blood orange on the nose, and a beautifully fresh and floral palate. Grippy tannins make the mouth water, and have you reaching for another glass. This is, simply put, delicious.

The Main Road and Dignity Cabernet Sauvignon comes from two vineyards, planted 21 years ago. Just 5km from the ocean, and at 1,200 feet elevation, this is one of the coolest spots in the Cape’s winelands. And that results in an elegant, pure, unique style of South African Cabernet. Here, Craig’s been known to harvest grapes as late as May: that’s the equivalent of November in the Northern Hemisphere. And with baboons and birds seeking out the final grapes on vines in the valley, the yields are pitifully small. But the wine is remarkable: already a Cape cult classic. Lovely energy here, saline and very pure, with grippy tannins and a very long finish.

The latest addition to the range is another Hemel-en-Aarde staple, Le Luc Pinot Noir, named after their son. It’s from a granite and clay site, in the heart of the slope, and is now really finding its feet. It’s a floral, precise expression of Pinot Noir: as you’d expect from tasting the other wines here.

This year there are just 2,500 bottles of a blend of Pinotage and Pinot Noir, that will challenge what you’ve ever thought about South Africa’s enigmatic grape. Smoky but still so pure and vibrant, it dances across the palate. This has to be tried.

Made from vines that were first planted 21 years ago, and named after Anne and Craig’s daughter. Incredibly Burgundian in style, the granite soils here give taut minerality and restraint, while the finish on the wine is astonishingly long.

The Reserve Red is 100% Syrah, from a south-east facing block on the farm. It’s a peppery, nervy Syrah, with tons of finesse.

The Reserve White is a Sauvignon Blanc, that’s vinified and aged in 95% new French oak barrels. It’s as serious as this grape variety gets: it astonishes with its texture, depth, and length.

A pure and juicy Syrah that offers incredible value for money. Long and pure and so focussed: a really delicious wine.

Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is the result of a berry by berry selection, also from a cool, south east facing slope on the farm. This is a truly spectacular Stellenbosch Cabernet: in a decade, this will be a match for Bordeaux’s greatest names.

Pofadder is Eben’s ode to the Cinsault grape, from a 1973-planted vineyard on iron-rich slate soils on the Kasteelberg, in the heart of the Swartland. This is a complex, ageworthy wine: as good as Cinsault gets.

This is a blend of 50% Chenin Blanc with 50% Palomino It comes from a rare thing in South Africa: a vineyard planted on pure limestone, just 2km from the ocean, planted between 1958 and 1967.

The white equivalent of Columella is Palladius: the Swartland white. It’s a blend of all eleven official Swartland white varieties, and comes from seventeen different vineyards across the region, mainly on the Paardeberg, but with vineyards by the coast in St Helena Bay, and on the Piketberg.

Made from parcels of Chenin Blanc Bush vines on the decomposed sandy soils of the Skurfberg, the wine that takes this mountain’s name comes from plots that were planted between 1940 and 1955.

The Kokerboom vineyard is some four and a half hours north of the winery, making picking it a real logistical challenge. It’s a Semillon (known as green grape in Afrikaans) plot, planted in the 1930s, and is a mix of both the green (green green grape) and red (red green grape) mutations of the variety.

The Soldaat Grenache vineyard is at high altitude in Piekenierskloof, and that allows the grapes to ripe fully, thanks to plenty of sun, but retain freshness, thanks to the 700m plus elevation. The vines are now 55 years old.

For Eben Sadie, Tinta Barocca might be the best suited red variety for reflecting the Swartland’s terroir. And this, the Treinspoor, from a vineyard planted in iron rich soils in 1974, is possibly the Cape’s greatest iteration. It takes its name from the trainline that runs alongside the vineyard.

The Mev Kirsten is the oldest vineyard of Chenin Blanc in the Cape. Found in the Jonkershoek Valley of Stellenbosch, much of the plot was planted in the 1920s, and takes its name from the owner, Mrs Kirsten.

The white equivalent of Columella is Palladius: the Swartland white. It’s a blend of all eleven official Swartland white varieties, and comes from seventeen different vineyards across the region, mainly on the Paardeberg, but with vineyards by the coast in St Helena Bay, and on the Piketberg.

Eben wants his signature wines to be “true inhabitants of the land”, reflecting their Swartland origins. When Columella started in 2000, it was a blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre. But that has now evolved into a blend of six of the seven official grape varieties of the Swartland, adding Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault, and Tinta Barocca (the only missing variety is Pinotage - in Eben’s words, “a grape that was made by man”).

Eben wants his signature wines to be “true inhabitants of the land”, reflecting their Swartland origins. When Columella started in 2000, it was a blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre. But that has now evolved into a blend of six of the seven official grape varieties of the Swartland, adding Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault, and Tinta Barocca (the only missing variety is Pinotage - in Eben’s words, “a grape that was made by man”).

Eben wants his signature wines to be “true inhabitants of the land”, reflecting their Swartland origins. When Columella started in 2000, it was a blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre. But that has now evolved into a blend of six of the seven official grape varieties of the Swartland, adding Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault, and Tinta Barocca (the only missing variety is Pinotage - in Eben’s words, “a grape that was made by man”).

From a 32 year old vineyard in Stellenbosch, this is a wonderful example of Cape Sauvignon Blanc, from a master winemaker. On the nose, orange blossom and plenty of grapefruit pith, while the palate is tense, textured, and stunningly long. This would pass for a wine at double the price. A brilliant white: not to be missed.

The Savage White remains as Cape White Blend. A mix of 64% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Semillon and 16% Chenin Blanc, with fruit from Kaaimansgat, Villiersdorp, Piekenierskloof and Stellenbosch, it’s a wine that’s all about texture and finesse.

Arguably Duncan’s most sought after wine, predominantly because of the miniscule quantity produced, The Girl Next Door comes from a 0.38ha plot of Syrah vines planted in the housing compound where Duncan lives, that was originally planted purely for decorative purposes. But Duncan has been coaxing it back to life, weaning it off water, and farming it organically. Already impressive, Duncan reckons it’s still a few years from its best. But good luck finding any then!

Follow the Line was the first of Duncan's single bottlings, and is Duncan’s Cinsault, that’s quickly gained an almost cult following. From south-east facing old bushvines that are almost 40 years old, the wind and heat here mean that picking date is key, and a drop of Syrah in the blend adds depth and structure. This will be an impressively ageworthy Cinsault.

The Thief in the Night is, in 2019, around 61% Grenache, with the rest made up of 26% Cinsault and 13% Syrah. Duncan had hoped for it to be closer to 80% Grenache, but the drought seriously reduced yields. It comes from Piekenierskloof, with the Grenache coming from the same vineyard as Eben Sadie’s Soldaat - Eben has 8 rows, and Duncan has 4. Here, at 550m elevation on sandstone soils, the wine maintains stunning energy alongside perfect ripeness.

Arguably the least imaginative of Duncan’s wine names, Are we there yet? comes from Malgas, way distant from the Cape’s heartlands, and from the Sijnn vineyards. The first time Duncan visited David Trafford’s project out here, he was blown away. He asked if he could buy a few grapes, and this is the result: a blend of 50% Syrah and 50% Touriga Nacional from 14 year old bushvines, that reflects the wildness of the place.

The Savage Red started as a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault, with grapes from across the Cape. But now it’s morphed into 100% Syrah, all from the same Stellenbosch vineyard. While historically this vineyard was poorly farmed, it’s now seeing biodynamic treatments, and the work seems to be paying off: the 2018 is quite possibly the best yet.

The Sijnn White is a blend of 70% Chenin Blanc, 17% Viognier and 13% Roussanne, and is a wine that’s all about texture and palate weight. Charla manages to keep the acidity here beautifully: this remains chiselled and impressively long.

And for an introduction to the estate, look no further than the Low Profile. Essentially a second wine of the estate, it’s a blend of Shiraz with 51% Touriga Nacional, Tinta Amarella, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvèdre. Here, the tannins are a little softer, and it’s a little more approachable than its bigger brother. But don’t dismiss it: it’s absolutely delicious.

The Sijnn Red is a field blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira, and is a wine that shows it’s warm origins, without any sense of jamminess or heaviness. There’s a stunning baked earth character, a finish that lasts an age. This is brilliant Mediterranean red blend, that’s a match for anything being made in the Swartland.

Comes from the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, at 150m elevation and just 1.4km from the sea, and a north facing site. This is the warmest site Hannes works. Very Burgundian. Lots of intense fruit, intense and peachy, with plenty of vibrant acidity and a long, textured finish. There’s beautiful detailing, and a complex but nicely rich finish.

The Ridge vineyard is the youngest vineyard Hannes works with, from the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge ward. Here there are the same soils as in Vrede, but with an east-facing slope, and at 330m above sea level, the wine is much cooler and more savoury, with the harvest undertaken some 25 days later. Much cooler than the Vrede in style, there’s ripe golden delicious, plenty of salinity, and an orange blossom character that comes across on the finish. This is Chassagne to Vrede’s Meursault.

Comes from the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, at 150m elevation and just 1.4km from the sea, and a north facing site. This is the warmest site Hannes works. Rather more fruit forward, and there’s a floral note to this, alongside incredibly depth on the palate. Rose petal and wild strawberries, and beautiful tannic structure. This is playful yet sophisticated Pinot.

Ignis Pinot Noir is from the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, and is 2km further inland, and 100m higher in elevation. Here the soil is totally different, with plenty of quartz, decomposed granite, and just enough clay to give a textured element. It’s the most perfumed, fragrant of Hannes’ wines. Blood orange on the nose, with dark cherries, and pomegranate seeds. There’s an intensity to the palate: this is very bright and energetic, but with richness to the core of fruit. The finish is chiselled, and there’s a breadth to the tannins. Very long and ferrous.

The Ridge vineyard is the youngest vineyard Hannes works with, from the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge ward. Here there are the same soils as in Vrede, but with an east-facing slope, and at 330m above sea level, the wine is much cooler and more savoury, with the harvest undertaken some 25 days later. Plenty of cool berry fruit on the nose here, with a hint of pomegranate, and then a smoky, mineral character on the palate. The tannins are very fine, and the finish is long and floral.

The 2019 Tesselaarsdal Pinot Noir is beautifully done by Berene Sauls. On the nose notes of rose petal, wild strawberries, and a hint of cinnamon spice. The palate is silky and fresh, with wonderful sour cherry fruit, and plenty of minerality. This is a beautifully poised Pinot Noir, from one of the nicest producers in the Cape.

Lovely texture to this Chardonnay, half of which spent time in amphora. Impressively juicy and fresh palate, with a very saline, long finish. Very good indeed.

The 2007 Syrah from Chris Williams comes from the Helderberg in Stellenbosch, and the wine is an intensely coloured, pure, expressive Syrah from a real master winemaker. Notes of white pepper and dark chocolate, and an intense core of dark fruit, are all supported by lively acidity and a pure, savoury finish. Brilliant.

The 2020 Grenache Blanc is another hit from Chris Williams. Lemon pith and wet stones on the nose, and a long, savoury, beautifully textured palate. Incredibly well balanced, and fine-boned, it’s a simply delicious wine. And it’s one of the best value wines in our range.

This Viognier is one of South Africa’s finest. It comes from the farm next door to Meerlust in Stellenbosch, from a cool, maritime site. And that makes it a savoury, restrained example: more akin to top Condrieu than most of South Africa’s rich, jammy examples.

Made by talented winemaker Miles Mossop, this is an astonishingly good Sauvignon Blanc, with just 15% Semillon in the blend. Notes of green pineapple, as well a sea spray and ginger, and plenty of grip on the palate makes this a simply delicious wine. It’s wonderful now, and just so quaffable (particularly at this price), but will continue to evolve over the next 5-10 years.

From this year we’re offering the Copper Pot Pinot Noir, which comes from five different sources in the Overberg region. In common with John's other wines, it’s a wine that’s all about subtlety and finesse, that’s a joy to drink.

A new wine in John's range, this comes from 35 year old Sauvignon Blanc bushvines in the Citrasdal mountains, on the Skurfberg itself. This is an impressive, textured Sauvignon: a really serious expression of the grape. All about nuance and the interplay of palate weight and acidity, this is a stunning wine, produced in tiny quantities.

The Wanderers Heart is a blend of 66% Grenache from the Paardeberg in the Swartland, 23% Mourvedre from Bot Rivier, and 11% Syrah from shale in the same location. With 60% whole bunches, it's a juicy, fresh, and fragrant red. While John's whites typically get the plaudits, this is getting better and better. Don't overlook it.

Produced from the only Semillon Gris vineyard in South Africa, from the “Siebritskloof” valley on the Swartland's Paardeberg. Partial skin fermentation gives this a beautiful copper hue, and the nose is stunning, with aromatics of apricots, ginger, and orange peel. A unique wine, this is one to buy every year.

A blend of 36% Roussanne, 25% Semillon, 22% Chenin Blanc, 11% Chardonnay and 6% Clairette Blanche, the 2019 Rocking Horse is another spectacular wine from John Seccombe. It’s a wine to secure on first release every vintage: it won’t disappoint

A new wine for L&W from John, this is a Chenin Blanc from the Swartland's Paardeberg mountain, from 40 year old vines planted in the Langkloof valley in 1979. The wine is bright and vibrant, with amazing texture. Already delicious, it's sure to age impressively.

From a 56 year old vineyard on the Paardeberg, these old clones give a very different expression of Semillon from newer, more productive clones. This is rich, powerful, but with stunning acidity: a simply brilliant white from John, that you shouldn't miss.