South Africa: New releases

From a plot in Franchhoek planted in 1932, there are just 5,000 bottles of the Franschhoek Old Vines Lötter Cinsault.

The Granite Syrah comes from the Paardeberg, from 24 year old vines, and is incredibly elegant and floral in style, with real focus.

There are just 1,800 bottles of the Wellington Old Vines Basson Cinsault, from a plot planted in 1900.

The Quartz Chenin sits between the Schist Chenin with its ripeness, and the taut and lean Granite Chenin in style, and comes from a 38 year old vineyard, also on the Kasteelberg

The Granite Chenin Blanc is taut and nervy, from a 43 year old vineyard on the Paardeberg. This will need some time.

Chenin Blanc makes up the spine of the Old Vines White, and it’s supported by Grenache Blanc, Macabeo, Verdelho, Clairette Blanche, Semillon Gris, and Viognier. Some of these sites are impressively old, with Chenin of up to 65 years old, and 60 year old Semillon Gris, while even the Viognier, from iron rich soils, is 21 years old. It’s a wine where balance is key, and where taut minerality is juxtaposed with a ripe, fruity, core. It’s a joyful, ageworthy wine.

Chardonnay in the cape, and more specifically in Stellenbosch, has been much maligned. A lot of this is down to the plant material, which was often virus infected, or not even Chardonnay at all. But a parcel high on the Helderberg mountain challenges that, with a lovely lemon oil character, and impressive mineral length. Just 6,000 bottles are produced, however.

Just 6,000 bottles are produced of the estate’s Cabernet Sauvignon, which seeks to redefine preconceptions about South African Cabernet. It comes from cooler sites across Stellenbosch, including a 39 year old parcel close to the sea, and parcels on the Helderberg and in the Polkadraai hills. It’s silky, savoury, and sure to be ageworthy.

From a 19 year old vineyard on the iron-rich soils around Malmesbury, the Iron Syrah has a breadth on the palate that’s not found on the other wines, and is stunningly aromatic.

The Schist Syrah comes from the couple’s Roundstone property, allowing full control of the farming. These 21 year old vines give a structured, peppery expression of Syrah.

The Syrah is as true an expression of this grape variety in the Swartland’s varied terroirs as you’ll find. In 2017, it’s a blend of four parcels planted in the stony Shale and Schist based soils of the Kasteelberg; two parcels of dry-land, bush vines grown in the decomposed Granite of the Paardeberg; and one on the rolling, iron-rich soils west of Malmesbury. The vines are aged between 22 and 30 years, and while delicious on first release, it’s a wine that will age impressively.

The culmination of the other wines of the estate is the Dry Red, inspired by the South African reds of the 1950s, 60s, and 70s. At this time, wines labelled as Cabernet Sauvignon would frequently have a considerable proportion of Cinsault, and this is an equal blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Cinsault, with grapes from the aforementioned vineyards included in the blend. In its youth, this is structured and intense, but with bottle age it’s sure to flourish.

The wine that is perhaps receiving the most attention currently is the Olerasay No.2, awarded 100 points by Neal Martin. Every year since 2008, they’ve held back a barrel or two of their Straw Wine, made from the Chenin Blanc grapes that have the best acidity at harvest, from the Kasteelberg, and the Paardeberg. They refresh a solera each year with the new vintage, and this is the just the second time they’ve bottled a portion. It is spectacular.