South Africa: New releases

Trust your Gut is Lukas’ attempt “to make the perfect western cape Chenin”. In 2019 it’s 73% from the Paardeberg, from next door to Eben Sadie’s farm, which brings texture and tension, and 27% from the granite soils of Stellenbosch’s Polkedraai, which brings intense yellow fruit. The name refers to the importance of the picking date for these grapes: in the 2019 vintage, Lukas has got it spot on. This has lovely green pineapple notes, with loads of savoury elements, plenty of salinity, and a slightly creamy, zesty finish.

This is made from Cinsault fruit from Stellenbosch, and is made in a pale, delicate, provencal style. Wild strawberries and crunchy cherries on the nose give way to a textured, intense palate, that’s simply delicious. This is a wine you can’t stop drinking: from a real star of South Africa. Not to be missed.

Breton is the old Loire name for Cabernet Franc, which are some of Lukas’ favourite wines. This comes from the farm on the Polkedraai where Lukas lives, and is, in his words, “a glass of wine you want to smell the tension on”. This is a baby, but has impressive potential. Lots of graphite and wild berries, and blueberries in particular. There’s lovely energy here: it’s very Loire-like. It will require a few years in bottle: with that, it will be a truly glorious glass of red wine.

Kamaraderie was the first vineyard he started with - the farmer was best man at Lukas’ wedding. This Chenin Blanc vineyard is situated in Paarl, in the Klein Drakenstein mountains. The vineyard was planted in 1960, and produces a stunning white, that needs time to unfurl. It’s much more savoury, and tightly wound than the relatively opulent Trust Your Gut. Lots of tension on the palate, so textural and intense. There’s a lovely mouthwatering finish, with notes of fresh peach and honeydew melon, as well as thyme. The name refers to the help that Lukas needed in his first vintage, having broken his leg, as well as the sense of togetherness that he thinks defines the wine trade. Sadly there was no Kamaraderie made in 2020.

For Lukas, a good glass of Cinsault should be like jumping into weightlessness, shouting Geronimo. This comes from 40+ year old vines on the Helderberg, and as a one-off some vines from Bot Rivier. It’s a charming red, incredibly delicate in colour, but with the stuffing to last a few years. Notes of wild strawberries and glâcé cherries, with a herbal lift, too. Amazing length and tension: it’s one of the Cape’s best Cinsaults.

Also from the Polkedraai comes Graft, a single vineyard Syrah from the highest vineyard in the area, from which you can see False Bay, that’s shared with Reenen. It’s Hermitage in style and substance, with incredible length. And Lukas’ attention to detail is shown by the fact that he spent three years securing the barrels for this, talking to dozens of Rhône winemakers in the process. In 2019 this is beautiful. There’s a touch of tapenade, but also lots of pure fruit character, and the floral nose that you’d expect from Polkedraai Syrah.It’s a beautifully balanced wine.