South Africa: New releases

From a 32 year old vineyard in Stellenbosch, this is a wonderful example of Cape Sauvignon Blanc, from a master winemaker. On the nose, orange blossom and plenty of grapefruit pith, while the palate is tense, textured, and stunningly long. This would pass for a wine at double the price. A brilliant white: not to be missed.

The Savage White remains as Cape White Blend. A mix of 64% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Semillon and 16% Chenin Blanc, with fruit from Kaaimansgat, Villiersdorp, Piekenierskloof and Stellenbosch, it’s a wine that’s all about texture and finesse.

Arguably Duncan’s most sought after wine, predominantly because of the miniscule quantity produced, The Girl Next Door comes from a 0.38ha plot of Syrah vines planted in the housing compound where Duncan lives, that was originally planted purely for decorative purposes. But Duncan has been coaxing it back to life, weaning it off water, and farming it organically. Already impressive, Duncan reckons it’s still a few years from its best. But good luck finding any then!

Follow the Line was the first of Duncan's single bottlings, and is Duncan’s Cinsault, that’s quickly gained an almost cult following. From south-east facing old bushvines that are almost 40 years old, the wind and heat here mean that picking date is key, and a drop of Syrah in the blend adds depth and structure. This will be an impressively ageworthy Cinsault.

The Thief in the Night is, in 2019, around 61% Grenache, with the rest made up of 26% Cinsault and 13% Syrah. Duncan had hoped for it to be closer to 80% Grenache, but the drought seriously reduced yields. It comes from Piekenierskloof, with the Grenache coming from the same vineyard as Eben Sadie’s Soldaat - Eben has 8 rows, and Duncan has 4. Here, at 550m elevation on sandstone soils, the wine maintains stunning energy alongside perfect ripeness.

Arguably the least imaginative of Duncan’s wine names, Are we there yet? comes from Malgas, way distant from the Cape’s heartlands, and from the Sijnn vineyards. The first time Duncan visited David Trafford’s project out here, he was blown away. He asked if he could buy a few grapes, and this is the result: a blend of 50% Syrah and 50% Touriga Nacional from 14 year old bushvines, that reflects the wildness of the place.

The Savage Red started as a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault, with grapes from across the Cape. But now it’s morphed into 100% Syrah, all from the same Stellenbosch vineyard. While historically this vineyard was poorly farmed, it’s now seeing biodynamic treatments, and the work seems to be paying off: the 2018 is quite possibly the best yet.