Rhône: New Releases

2019 is the second, and sadly last, vintage of this wine, which comes from a plot of very old (100 years+) vines found just 200m from the appellation boundary of St Joseph. It is a blend of local varieties like Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier, with the striking addition of a Savoyard grape variety: Jacquère. Usually, this variety is found on the Alpine slopes, and makes salty, mineral, vibrantly high-acid wines. The 2019 is lower in alcohol and lighter in body than the 2018, with a distinctly salty twist thanks to the Jacquère. Don’t miss it.

At first it is lightly scented with notes of elderflower, pineapple and rose. With some air and time in the glass it begins to open up and show Viognier’s brilliant flare. It’s luscious, silky, and fresh on the palate, with a scintillating mineralogy woven through the tropical fruits making it irresistible. As ever, this is a benchmark Condrieu from the Perrets.

If André’s straight Condrieu is the benchmark, then this is a wine that transcends its category altogether. The vines here are approaching 70 years old, and the wine has explosive aromatics, bursting with ripe peach and nectarine aromas. There is so much tension and persistence on the palate. A wine of amplitude and indulgence, it remains a remarkably fair price.

This comes from old vines grown on the steep slopes in the north of the appellation, near the domaine. It is dark, hedgerow-scented, slightly wild and completely delicious.