2020 Semillon, Boekenhoutskloof, Franschhoek

Using three parcels of fruit from vineyards planted in 1902, 1936 and 1942 and employing concrete eggs and new barrels for discreet seasoning, this is a delicious wine and somewhat of a hedonistic treat. A dribble of early-picked, whole-bunch, amphora-fermented 120-year-old vine Muscat adds dramatic acid to offset the epic fruit notes in this mesmerising Semillon. I expected a more reserved nose and palate, but this vintage is surprisingly forward with generous lemon balm and nougat notes over a high tensile greengage and pineapple pith palate. Superbly classy from the first molecule to the last flavour memory, minutes later, despite its precocious air, the battery pack of acidity embedded in the core of this wine will power it for a decade with ease.

The 2020 Semillon Boekenhoutskloof comes from three parcels of old vines, one parcel planted in 1902 and an adjacent one in 1942 (50% of the blend) and includes a seasoning of Muscat d'Alexandria also planted in 1902 that is purposefully picked underripe. This is aged in 70% new oak. It has a wonderful, vivacious bouquet with honeysuckle, jasmine, lemon rind and lanolin. It's one of the finest Semillon aromatics that I have encountered. The palate has a vibrant, slightly flinty opening and a tiny reduction that according to winemaker Gottfried Mocke, ebbs after a couple of years (he opined this comes from the soils quarts content). Lovely tension here with lemon curd and peach skin notes towards the persistent finish. Superb.

Boekenhoutskloof has always made impressive, age-worthy Semillons, but Gottfried Mocke has taken the 2020 to another level of complexity. Using grapes from three old parcels, planted in 1902, 1936 and 1942, with the largest component from the legendary La Colline vineyard, this includes 2% Muscat d'Alexandrie and some field-blended Semillon Gris. Fermented in two thirds new wood, with the rest seeing concrete eggs and amphoras, it's one of the greatest ever Cape whites. Stony, flinty and layered, with wax, lemongrass and nutmeg flavours and subtle struck match reduction. Wow!