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La Maltroie is located just up the road from the winery, near the heart of the village. The domaine owns two parcels of old vines of up to 70 years old, one of 0.56 hectares and the other 0.17 hectares. Céline says it is always approachable from early on, and is hence one of the first Premiers Crus to be bottled. It has once again outstanding purity and freshness in 2023, the fruit of not only an excellent growing season but a master in control of her art. Packed full of fresh, peachy fruit, this is finely balanced and precise with a long, moreish saline finish. A top pick.
The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Maltroye 1er Cru has a "buttoned-down" nose that demands coaxing to reveal its yellow fruit, hazelnut and light orange rind scents. The palate is well balanced and opens up wonderfully with aeration, displaying a touch of orange rind, spice and smokiness on the finish. It's quite mercurial and, to my senses, fascinating.
Critic score 93/100
Maturity Young 2028 - 2038
Prices shown in bond
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