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Chassagne-Montrachet is a favourite in 2023, and Fontaine-Gagnard is a domaine to follow. This is a gorgeous wine: quintessentially Chassagne with its deliciously sleek, nutty fruit, and perfectly pitched new oak (20%). It abounds with ripe, pithy lemon that leads to a chiselled texture on the palate, and a long, appetising, saline finish. It’s a benchmark Chassagne from one of our favourite producers, and once again a smart buy in 2023.
The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Village is the usual blend of six terroirs although in 2025, Céline Fontaine told me that the large production might result in one of those being bottled as a separate cuvée. There is a pleasant reduction at play here. It's quite tensile with yellow fruit and light crushed stone scents. The palate is well balanced with a keen line of acidity, very pure with a slightly richer, honeyed finish that is irresistible. I see this having wide commercial appeal.
Critic score 94/100
Maturity Young 2028 - 2039
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Maturity Young 2025 - 2033
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