2023 Saint-Romain, Olivier Leflaive Frères
Saint-Romain’s wines used to sit at the high-acid end of Burgundy. The elevation here gives the wines a coolness and austerity in cooler years. But in recent vintages, the appellation has come into its own, and now proves a source of deliciously fresh but poised wines, where other appellations are teetering into the overripe camp. This wine comes from various plots, including Sous le Château and En Poillange. It's a refreshing and crunchy white, with limestone minerality and a racy edge.